Stevebee Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Been riding my Sherman S for almost 900 miles now. Was my second wheel after only 300 miles on a V11. Have the 62lb spring and weigh about 75kg. Initially I set the suspension based on user reports and it felt good. Then I used the last post with the post it notes etc to sort the sag and went from there. Set both compression and rebound to zero and found the sag to fall between 25 and 26 percent. With this info left the compression at zero. The wheel felt a bit pogoee at zero rebound so moved it to 6 clockwise. This was ok but a bit too lively for me so the changed to 8. Perfect. I thought the setting was good before but now feels as though it was made for me. Wish I’d seen an explanation like this 900 miles ago although I was a newbie and at the time probably couldn’t have felt the difference. That explanation post should be a ‘sticky’ for all new SS buyers. I advertised my Sherman S for sale as I don’t use the fantastic range and the felt heavy to manoeuvre at traffic lights and at slow speeds. I bought some Forma motorcycle boots and adjusted the Grizzla to lock in my right foot with the left a little looser. So much more control when starting. I can glide on one foot forever and so much more confident in heavy traffic at the lights. So much so I withdrew my for sale post and am keeping the Sherman. …. and then Leaperkim released the Lynx which ticks even more boxes and for me sounds like the perfect wheel. It’s not a cheap hobby if you don’t sell any of your wheels 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 9 minutes ago, Stevebee said: So much so I withdrew my for sale post and am keeping the Sherman. …. and then Leaperkim released the Lynx which ticks even more boxes and for me sounds like the perfect wheel. It’s not a cheap hobby if you don’t sell any of your wheels Glad that you like the Sherman S. The Sherman S is one of the nicer wheels around. I think you are hooked. Either on euc's in general, or speed on one wheel. I have a similar experience with my V12. After getting an Abrams, and S22, my V12 didn't feel appealing anymore. So I thought. It's a goner. It felt so unstable over some bumpier sections of roads, now that I have been riding the 22" Abrams for over 8000 km's, and the S22. Then the inner tube started to leak. This was to be expected since I patched this inner tube. From my experience, my patched inner tubes never lasts. At least this time it lasted for some months. I installed a new inner tube, and then out of the blue, I decided to try out the new Inmotion App to see what settings I can fiddle with. Inmotion came out with a new app since the release of the V13. In any case, there is a new feature that I haven't seen before. And it is "factory reset". It claims to only to bring settings to their default values. But low and behold, my V12 was transformed into a desirable peppy machine. The firmware is still the same. The old settings that I have been using for over a year don't work the same way like they used to. I had to find new optimal values through trial-and-error again. But the result is astonishing. It accelerates and brakes better than my Abrams and S22 now. This thing is peppy. And brakes. And it rides more comfortably over bumps than before. So much so, I am riding my V12 and S22. I am still trying to make my S22 ride closer to the V12. I haven't been riding my Abrams for a few weeks. The V12 is that good. Way more fun, and I don't feel like I need suspension riding around town. It changed my whole perspective on non-suspension wheels, especially on 16" ones. My V12 is now a keeper. A complete 180 degrees turn around. I didn't see that coming. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 2 hours ago, Stevebee said: Been riding my Sherman S for almost 900 miles now. Was my second wheel after only 300 miles on a V11. Have the 62lb spring and weigh about 75kg. Initially I set the suspension based on user reports and it felt good. Then I used the last post with the post it notes etc to sort the sag and went from there. Set both compression and rebound to zero and found the sag to fall between 25 and 26 percent. With this info left the compression at zero. The wheel felt a bit pogoee at zero rebound so moved it to 6 clockwise. This was ok but a bit too lively for me so the changed to 8. Perfect. I thought the setting was good before but now feels as though it was made for me. Wish I’d seen an explanation like this 900 miles ago although I was a newbie and at the time probably couldn’t have felt the difference. That explanation post should be a ‘sticky’ for all new SS buyers. I advertised my Sherman S for sale as I don’t use the fantastic range and the felt heavy to manoeuvre at traffic lights and at slow speeds. I bought some Forma motorcycle boots and adjusted the Grizzla to lock in my right foot with the left a little looser. So much more control when starting. I can glide on one foot forever and so much more confident in heavy traffic at the lights. So much so I withdrew my for sale post and am keeping the Sherman. …. and then Leaperkim released the Lynx which ticks even more boxes and for me sounds like the perfect wheel. It’s not a cheap hobby if you don’t sell any of your wheels Glad my guide helped! It's mind blowing how many riders ride around on suspension without doing any form of tuning. Awesome that you found your pad setup also, that makes a world of difference. The Sherman S is a truly fantastic wheel if you get everything setup to your preference. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfiniteWheelie Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) Can anyone explain why you have to remove the battery/suspension on one side when changing the tire? Why can’t you just: - remove the little cover on the battery pack (circled in red) - unscrew the bracket which clamps the suspension to the axle - do this for both sides, disconnect the motor cable, and lift the entire shell off? Edited December 6, 2023 by InfiniteWheelie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) 14 minutes ago, InfiniteWheelie said: Can anyone explain why you have to remove the battery/suspension on one side when changing the tire? There are a lot more connection points than the four screws you refer to. Video time stamped. I am not sure if the part you circled in red can be removed separately. Edited December 6, 2023 by Paradox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfiniteWheelie Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) @Paradox I think you may have miss understood what I meant. I’m talking about lifting off the entire shell (battery/suspension/controller) in one piece… Look at the red rectangle in the picture I attached. Why can’t you just remove those 4 bolts (revealing the axle clamp shown at 8:38), then remove those 4 axle clamp bolts, do both sides and lift off the entire shell? Edited December 6, 2023 by InfiniteWheelie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 6 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said: Can anyone explain why you have to remove the battery/suspension on one side when changing the tire? Why can’t you just: - remove the little cover on the battery pack (circled in red) - unscrew the bracket which clamps the suspension to the axle - do this for both sides, disconnect the motor cable, and lift the entire shell off? Getting the motor cable in and out would be more work than just removing a battery pack and would require you to apply new silicone. There are sidewalls underneath that part you have marked, you don't have the access that you think you would have. The current way of swapping tire is already convenient. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfiniteWheelie Posted December 6, 2023 Share Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) @Rawnei So the circled part is actually part of the battery case... If it was removable, and the motor wire had a connector near the axle, it seems like you could just lift the entire thing off. Edited December 6, 2023 by InfiniteWheelie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeman Posted December 19, 2023 Share Posted December 19, 2023 On 7/20/2023 at 11:39 PM, Rawnei said: Flimsy was my interpretation from the word LEGO, lego is not known to be robust. 😅 The plastic bridge is just for holding the fender and motor cable, the controller housing is also the bridge between the two sides, then there's a lot of pretty beefy screws holding all that together and then you have the motor in-between which is also bolted onto the suspension which is bolted onto the battery packs so all in all I think it's a pretty elegant and robust design compared to many other wheels. I can imagine stripping screws ain't no fun regardless of user error or not (you sure it wasn't poorly threaded from factory? I think I saw example of that in a Patton video where they had to re-drill and re-thread a hole). After replacing my tire, I find a squeaking noise around the fender plastic bridge area, for example, when I tilt the EUC or put pressure on the fender. Not sure if it's a big deal, but it makes my wheel feel flimsy lol. Anybody had this problem and how do you fix it? I don't think it's how tight my screws are, the squeaking noise is still there even after I remove all 6 screws on the connecting piece and the 4 screws that attach to the fender. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted December 19, 2023 Author Share Posted December 19, 2023 (edited) Yeah, there's nothing to keep the fender support aligned perfectly in the recess of the battery box... seems likely yours is rubbing. Since it's an alignment issue, I suggest loosening the 4 battery-to-tophousing screws on each side of the EUC (8 screws total; easy to reach) just one turn loose, and also loosen one of the kickstand foot screws. Then upright the EUC and wiggle things until it's resting straight, and then snug the screws quickly to lock it in place. I was irritated with mine, to see that there's no repeatable way to align the motor brackets on each side of the EUC, since their fasteners are underneath the strut tubes. (The brackets have a little bit of rotational slop before tightening, from their 4 bolt holes.) If the motor mounts aren't parallel, the struts won't be parallel, leading to some amount of battery box misalignment and suspension bind. Any alignment tips from other owners? Edited December 19, 2023 by RagingGrandpa (img url) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hckere Posted December 21, 2023 Share Posted December 21, 2023 Hello, saw a table with bolt torques in this reel Do anyone know where to get the original text version? https://youtube.com/shorts/RUotchWzMO0?si=H_nAjd85Tf-OQ4gb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiMark Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 I'm still riding my Sherman S, only up to 2,500km though. I haven't had it apart and haven't done any maintenance at all, not even adjusting suspension - nothing at all except adjusting tyre pressure. But how to put this thing to a real test? Well, I'm on a South Island trip and arrived in Dunedin today, so . . . Yep, I've taken the Sherman S for a ride up the worlds steepest street. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baldwin_Street I rode up that street at a steady pace, no problems, no drama. Riding down again I was watching my battery percentage going up, definitely gained a bit of charge there. I also went up that street on my e-MTB, but it was a struggle and a bit of drama too - the chain broke and I had to fix it with a quick link. I did make it to the top though. The quickest trip up was on my Inmotion RS, that thing just flew up there 'chirping' the front wheel and showing what 2 x 2kw motors can do. I just wouldn't feel safe trying to go that sort of speed up that steep a street on my Sherman S (or any EUC for that matter). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clem604 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) 11 hours ago, KiwiMark said: I'm still riding my Sherman S, only up to 2,500km though. I haven't had it apart and haven't done any maintenance at all, not even adjusting suspension - nothing at all except adjusting tyre pressure. The quickest trip up was on my Inmotion RS, that thing just flew up there 'chirping' the front wheel and showing what 2 x 2kw motors can do. I just wouldn't feel safe trying to go that sort of speed up that steep a street on my Sherman S (or any EUC for that matter). That's great, it's good to see someone else thoroughly enjoying their Sherman S. I haven't done any maintenance to mine either and I've had no problems, even now at 14,853km's. I had a chance to try an Inmotion RS with the stock tires and with the PMT tires and the PMT's make a world of difference, 10/10 would recommend. Edited February 22 by Clem604 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GothamMike Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Flat tire from a thorn. It’s a great wheel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDINPHX Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I’m still riding mine around in the back yard in the winter. Way too much gravel and ice here in for me to risk taking it it out in public. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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