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Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb


RagingGrandpa

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1 hour ago, CDINPHX said:

Still cannot get my light to not stop moving. Annoying, I’ll likely duct tape it in place.  Sigh it’s a fantastic light 

Yeah that really sucks. Mine is still holding in place with by cranking the screws it as far as it can go. It is a great light I must say and I have it tilted up pretty high and no pedestrians seem to be bothered by it.

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2 hours ago, CDINPHX said:

Still cannot get my light to not stop moving. Annoying, I’ll likely duct tape it in place.  Sigh it’s a fantastic light

Can you wrap some Teflon tape on the threads to tighten up any shifting? 

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15 hours ago, Hellkitten said:

Can you wrap some Teflon tape on the threads to tighten up any shifting? 

Unfortunately it is not the threads backing out. The light just shifts with bumps in the road/sidewalk. So I can set it and it’s fine, hit some road chatter and the light rotates down.  
 

what I have tried so far. 
-super tighten the bolts as @Clem604 has done 

-installed rubber washer/o-ring btw the light and the frame. That took some Effort. It’s a lot stiffer but it still shifts. 
 

-tried the new screws with the same lock washers nope light still shifts. 
 

-did all three at the same time. That didn’t work either. 
 

what I am wondering though is if I can find those serated washers (basically have teeth around them) made for biting into materials to hold in place. 

Edited by CDINPHX
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46 minutes ago, CDINPHX said:

what I am wondering though is if I can find those serated washers (basically have teeth around them) made for biting into materials to hold in place

Or just put a couple drops of Cyanoacrylate Glue.

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Just now, techyiam said:

Or just put a couple drops of Cyanoacrylate Glue.

it’s it not the screws backing out causing the issue. They stay tight. They just can’t be clamped down tight enough to hold. 

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1 minute ago, CDINPHX said:

it’s it not the screws backing out causing the issue. They stay tight. They just can’t be clamped down tight enough to hold. 

I know. I mean to add wherever there is relative motion, where you want to lockup. Just don't on too much.

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Ah gotcha, might be an option. Was really hoping the oring would work to provide enough friction. I still would like it to be adjustable. 

I suspect I’ll likely be adding a light to the helmet for night riding this fall. 

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What are your guys Sherman S idle temps at? I'm just curious, I just did a motherboard swap of the lower motherboard and put some new thermal paste on there and it idles around 24c on the display (which is 34c in apps, see below) which I hope and feel is kinda good.

I compared to my previous EUC World entries and idle was normally around 45c, so that would be 11c lower than previously.

Maybe I used a better thermal paste and spread it better? 😅

I also made an odd discovery, the Sherman S seems to display 10c lower temperature on the display than what it transmits over bluetooth, I have double checked with both EUC World and LeaperKim's own app, so if the display shows 24c both apps will show 34c, super odd.

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6 hours ago, CDINPHX said:

Unfortunately it is not the threads backing out. The light just shifts with bumps in the road/sidewalk. So I can set it and it’s fine, hit some road chatter and the light rotates down.  
 

what I have tried so far. 
-super tighten the bolts as @Clem604 has done 

-installed rubber washer/o-ring btw the light and the frame. That took some Effort. It’s a lot stiffer but it still shifts. 
 

-tried the new screws with the same lock washers nope light still shifts. 
 

-did all three at the same time. That didn’t work either. 
 

what I am wondering though is if I can find those serated washers (basically have teeth around them) made for biting into materials to hold in place. 

Perhaps try a different approach?  eg attach a threaded bolt, or wedge in a thickness of foam to the underside or topside of the housing of the light to make an adjustable ‘stop’ which would prevent said downward rotation beyond your chosen set-point? 

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16 minutes ago, Lilvodka said:

Anyone know when the 126v Sherman s coming out?

I haven't heard anything about it so far but as someone has corrected me before, a higher voltage Sherman S would most likely be a 134V wheel. If this is true it's likely the front runner to replace my Sherman S should I decide to upgrade.

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On 8/9/2023 at 4:08 PM, Rawnei said:

What are your guys Sherman S idle temps at? I'm just curious, I just did a motherboard swap of the lower motherboard and put some new thermal paste on there and it idles around 24c on the display (which is 34c in apps, see below) which I hope and feel is kinda good.

I compared to my previous EUC World entries and idle was normally around 45c, so that would be 11c lower than previously.

Maybe I used a better thermal paste and spread it better? 😅

I also made an odd discovery, the Sherman S seems to display 10c lower temperature on the display than what it transmits over bluetooth, I have double checked with both EUC World and LeaperKim's own app, so if the display shows 24c both apps will show 34c, super odd.

The display must be made out of lyenisium. Do not worry, it is a common find.

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1 minute ago, Planemo said:

Couldnt see it on this thread and I have been away from the forum for a while, but you guys did hear of the SS splitting in half whilst riding?

Yeap, but we need more info to be able to make sense of the incident. If you know more, plese share

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19 minutes ago, Planemo said:

 

He was a professional alright, riding with no gear 🤣 .

22 minutes ago, Planemo said:

Theres a suggestion that the rider did a tyre swop and it wasnt put back together correctly. As I say, a suggestion only. AFAIK.

I hope he learns something.

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56 minutes ago, Planemo said:

Theres a suggestion that the rider did a tyre swop and it wasnt put back together correctly. As I say, a suggestion only. AFAIK.

It's confirmed that a 3rd party did a tire swap not so long before, not the rider himself.

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Yeah, and then there is the problem with the threads that constantly shear off. We thought with the coming of Aluminium shells all screw problems will go away but that didn’t happened. A standard steel screw is usually made to screw into a steel base and not into a weaker Aluminium. For the problem to be solved larger diameter screws need to be chosen because of the larger thread.

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35 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

It's confirmed that a 3rd party did a tire swap not so long before, not the rider himself.

Do you have a link to this, because there is no mention of this in the original video title.

 

"Veteran Sherman S splitting in half in the middle of riding. We think the bolts weren’t loctite from factory and eventually just came loose. Don’t forget to open up your brand new wheel and loctite all the motor bolts for safety!"

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It's certainly a weird one. You would have to be unbelievably incompetent to assemble a wheel so badly that it falls in half shortly aftetwards. Whether it was from the factory or a subsequent tyre change, it just seems inconceivable that so many fasteners could have been incorrectly installed. But..it does appear to be a genuine report. Anyone know how many fasteners keep an SS together?

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