Jump to content

Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb


RagingGrandpa

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, jugon666 said:

I got curious when he said he could get 100 miles out of a sherman s on a single charge? I wonder what is the average speed which allows such range and the final voltage of the battery after the trip? I am asking because I am not getting much more than 60 miles out of mine... could it be that I am pushing it too hard most of the time? is 100 miles really realistic?

For me, 100 miles is realistic. I can easily get over 145km's (90 miles) @ 200lbs riding weight but it really is how fast you are riding it on average, temps, etc. 

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, jugon666 said:

I got curious when he said he could get 100 miles out of a sherman s on a single charge? I wonder what is the average speed which allows such range and the final voltage of the battery after the trip?

IMO you would need to be doing 15mph maybe the odd 20mph to get 100 miles. On my Sherman I used to get 70 miles tops at around 25. On my EX30 it's around 60 miles at 25~30mph. So yeah, 100 miles IS possible out of 3600wh but not many people ride a big battery wheel at 15 ish mph! And as has been said, it's surprising how your speed creeps up with the bigger wheels (especially if changing to a suspension wheel) and you think that your range isn't doing too well compared to previous wheels but in reality you are carrying an average higher speed without thinking about it. 30mph on my EX feels like 20mph on my old Sherman and this 'minor' difference in speed dramatically hits range.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whats the name of the plug on the charge port on the Sherman S? I need to know so I can get the right one for my fast charger 

Sorry, I assume it's been said before but I can't search just this thread on my phone 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

I'm still finding my Sherman S to be plenty fast enough and powerful enough for my fun casual riding. I really have to wonder why people think that an EUC should have more than 100V. I just don't get why anyone thinks it is a good idea to ride, while balanced on one wheel, at a faster speed than what the Sherman S is capable of.

What you are missing is that Sherman S is exceptionally well tuned for a 100v wheel, LK managed to create a 100v wheel with both high speed and high torque which is usually a tradeoff and why people want higher voltage wheels to get the best of two worlds.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, KiwiMark said:

My E-Bike on the flat will do ~50kph, my Sherman S casually cruises at speeds up to 65kph and I've pushed it to ~75kph without any beeps. Is this really not fast enough?

Even for a car or motorcycle, travelling 75 - 80+ km/hr on city streets is fast from a safety POV. So, it is fast. I think some folks, especially in the States, or in Dubai, where the roads can be smooth and open, I can see some riders would want to ride faster on a consistent basis. There are riders who ride in traffic on roads where the speed limits are above 30 mph. So there are some demands.

With the new 150 V and possibly 168 V wheels rumoured to be released, it will be interesting to see what the top speeds are going to be, and whether there will be more demand for higher speeds yet.

Honestly, I not hearing a roar for 100+ km/h wheels.

Not sure how many riders can emergency-brake well enough above 100+ km/h. Even at 80 km/h, the braking distances are quite long.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

What you are missing is that Sherman S is exceptionally well tuned for a 100v wheel, LK managed to create a 100v wheel with both high speed and high torque which is usually a tradeoff and why people want higher voltage wheels to get the best of two worlds.

And yet I have seen this as a criticism of the Sherman S and sometimes followed by advice to wait to see what Leaper Kim release next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Honestly, I not hearing a roar for 100+ km/h wheels.

Not sure how many riders can emergency-brake well enough above 100+ km/h. Even at 80 km/h, the braking distances are quite long.

I think if riders want to keep up with traffic on roads with 40mph or higher speed limits, they really shouldn't be trying to use an EUC to do it. This is more the territory of an actual motorcycle with decent sized wheels and disc brakes and ABS, etc. I'm not even sure that there is anywhere in the world where riding a device like an EUC is legal when done at speeds of 80+ kph.

It seems to be that pushing for higher and higher voltages, top speeds and motor power - well it made sense when it brought us the 100.8V wheels, but I'm not sure that I would agree that there is any need for it to keep going up. Do we really need for someone to release a 168V wheel? Are the current 134V wheels really not enough? I kinda think that we are moving in to the territory where there should be some thought put into the 'just because we can doesn't mean we should' idea. My big worry is that releasing faster and more powerful EUCs with higher voltages will lead to problems legally. There will surely become a point where the speed & power of these things will attract attention from legislators because they will be so dangerous that they need to be regulated or even banned. There are already plenty of EUCs that have more power than would be allowed on a moped (which requires a driving licence, number plates & registration here in NZ). I don't see any way of these things becoming legal here, due to the power and speed - officials just aren't going to accept something this quick being safe enough to explicitly legalise. The last thing I want to see is police looking too closely into it and deciding that they need to take action every time they see one.

With my Sherman S, I definitely won't be looking to 'upgrade' if LK puts out a higher voltage version.

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

I think if riders want to keep up with traffic on roads with 40mph or higher speed limits, they really shouldn't be trying to use an EUC to do it. This is more the territory of an actual motorcycle with decent sized wheels and disc brakes and ABS, etc. I'm not even sure that there is anywhere in the world where riding a device like an EUC is legal when done at speeds of 80+ kph.

Firstly, it is not legal to ride euc's above 32 km/h or at any speeds in a lot places. So it is mostly about enforcement.

However, I keep hearing and watching videos where riders in States are doing that. I think there is a sizeable groups of riders who ride pretty fast in the US.

8 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

It seems to be that pushing for higher and higher voltages, top speeds and motor power - well it made sense when it brought us the 100.8V wheels, but I'm not sure that I would agree that there is any need for it to keep going up. Do we really need for someone to release a 168V wheel? Are the current 134V wheels really not enough? I kinda think that we are moving in to the territory where there should be some thought put into the 'just because we can doesn't mean we should' idea. My big worry is that releasing faster and more powerful EUCs with higher voltages will lead to problems legally. There will surely become a point where the speed & power of these things will attract attention from legislators because they will be so dangerous that they need to be regulated or even banned. There are already plenty of EUCs that have more power than would be allowed on a moped (which requires a driving licence, number plates & registration here in NZ). I don't see any way of these things becoming legal here, due to the power and speed - officials just aren't going to accept something this quick being safe enough to explicitly legalise. The last thing I want to see is police looking too closely into it and deciding that they need to take action every time they see one.

We had the same conversation when wheels were going above 80 km/h (Master, Master Pro, V13). Now we are talking about going above 90 km/h. Is there a demand. I think so, especially in the US. However, I suspect, many are looking for headroom, rather than cruising speed. But you never know.

Contrary to what I was expecting, there are videos of riders in the US who were riding on main roads and talking to police officers. They don't seem to be getting into trouble.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, KiwiMark said:

And yet I have seen this as a criticism of the Sherman S and sometimes followed by advice to wait to see what Leaper Kim release next.

Most likely from people who didn't ride it and just assumes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Столкнулся с проблемой на своем Шермане S, не могу выставить максимальную скорость выше 55 км/ч, если кто знает, буду рад услышать ответ.

Google Translate:

Quote

I ran into a problem on my Sherman S, I can’t set the top speed above 55 km/h, if anyone knows, I’d be glad to hear the answer.

Please post in English here. You can use Google Translate or some other translator if you need it.

Пожалуйста, разместите здесь сообщение на английском языке. Вы можете использовать Google Translate или другой переводчик, если вам это нужно.

Edited by meepmeepmayer
  • Thanks 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This happened, and I think I got complacent with the reliability of this wheel.  I can’t answer what exactly happened because I don’t know.

Check your wheel before every ride. The lesson I’m learning and recovering from. 
IMG_0117.thumb.jpeg.b41cbff39fd0c0f917ad3c8385c812c3.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Paul D said:

This happened, and I think I got complacent with the reliability of this wheel.  I can’t answer what exactly happened because I don’t know.

Sorry to hear that your Sherman S top structure cracked, and brittle fractured.

Crack initiation and crack propagation occur in a tensile stress field. I suspect one possibility is that the tensile stress field in the top structure is caused by the imbalance of forces in each of the hydraulic struts, due to one leg containing compression damping and the other rebound damping.

Most likely, if there was a sufficiently strong and rigid fork brace installed, the tensile stresses in the top structure could have been reduced.

Additionally, Leaper Kim could also use hydraulic struts that have both compression and rebound damping in each strut, and thus have more balanced forces in each leg, albeit more expensive.

The heaviest load is the rider himself. But the pedal is directly fastened to the battery case, which is directly bolted to the struts, one on each side. The stanchions are then bolted to the axle. The weight of the rider looks to be well supported.

I wonder if this is why Leaper Kim decided to base the Lynx on the Patton instead of the Sherman S, since the Patton has better cross-bracing in its design.

 

Edited by techyiam
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Sorry to hear that your Sherman S top structure cracked, and brittle fractured.

Crack initiation and crack propagation occur in a tensile stress field. I suspect one possibility is that the tensile stress field in the top structure is caused by the imbalance of forces in each of the hydraulic struts, due to one leg containing compression damping and the other rebound damping.

Most likely, if there was a sufficiently strong and rigid fork brace installed, the tensile stresses in the top structure could have been reduced.

The heaviest load is the rider himself. But the pedal is directly fastened to the battery case, which is directly bolted to the struts, one on each side. The stanchions are then bolted to the axle. The weight of the rider looks to be well supported.

Perhaps this is why Leaper Kim decided to base the Lynx on the Patton instead of the Sherman S, since the Patton has better cross-bracing in its design?

I’m 6’4 230 lbs and I ride like I love it.  Maybe a good stress test with 3-4k miles?  Not sure exactly. I had the reset 2x’s. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Paul D said:

This happened, and I think I got complacent with the reliability of this wheel.  I can’t answer what exactly happened because I don’t know.

Check your wheel before every ride. The lesson I’m learning and recovering from. 
IMG_0117.thumb.jpeg.b41cbff39fd0c0f917ad3c8385c812c3.jpeg

Have you dropped or crashed your wheel or anything like that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installed the Cyclops Pro light from Hulaj Market on my Sherman S. it’s brighter than the stock, has two settings lower in yellow, higher in white, and both have a great beam pattern that avoids blinding oncoming drivers. It has a key foc that when pressed, switches between the 2 modes. I’ve attached mine near the front light with Velcro as it always accessible and I won’t forget to take it with me. Cool that you can switch while riding. Does get warm as it is powerful but whilst moving gets cooled. They recommend switching the light off which makes sense. Not sure what the watts / lumens are but it’s bright enough for me not to need my head torch

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Stevebee said:

Installed the Cyclops Pro light from Hulaj Market on my Sherman S. it’s brighter than the stock, has two settings lower in yellow, higher in white, and both have a great beam pattern that avoids blinding oncoming drivers. It has a key foc that when pressed, switches between the 2 modes. I’ve attached mine near the front light with Velcro as it always accessible and I won’t forget to take it with me. Cool that you can switch while riding. Does get warm as it is powerful but whilst moving gets cooled. They recommend switching the light off which makes sense. Not sure what the watts / lumens are but it’s bright enough for me not to need my head torch

This totally depends on how you angle the light, the idea is that you angle the yellow beam low enough as to not blind oncoming traffic and then switch to white beam when it's dark and you don't have oncoming traffic, that is why you have a low and a high beam. Also light will still blind if you are going downhill.

I have the same base lamp and built myself a mount and added DRL:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...