Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[dycus]

By active piece buzzer do you mean one where you just give it DC power and it emits a tone?

I'm pretty sure the Sherman and most EUCs use just a raw piezo that they PWM themselves. These two are not compatible.

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said:

I think it's just DC; or perhaps PWM DC to vary the volume. 

Next step: inspect the voltage across the terminals of the original, working buzzer, during beeping, with an oscope...

The original buzzer has same exact behaviour if not connected via the lamp internals instead directly connected to the wire so it's not the buzzer it's something with the circuit.

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, dycus said:

By active piece buzzer do you mean one where you just give it DC power and it emits a tone?

I'm pretty sure the Sherman and most EUCs use just a raw piezo that they PWM themselves. These two are not compatible.

Yes, the stock one is an active piezo, SFM-27.

Both stock one and new one I have same behaviour.

[Rawnei]

I took at photo of the board inside the lamp, it is pretty high resolution so can't attach it here, shared from google drive.

You can see the 3 inputs to the left and then 2 ouputs for the buzzer and a bunch of components, the other side is a heatsink so can not check circuit there.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jv78b_j0N-6fg6mzYNL8KwZITJZ8uW33/view?usp=sharing

I wonder if maybe R7 and R8 are related to the buzzer.

Edit: Yes, when angling the board in strong light you can see the circuit, looks like buzzer circuit goes through R7 and R8.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K0wLf3qV0qOePeyZ38lyOKSLxNy3rHP0/view?usp=sharing

Edited August 29, 2023 by Rawnei

[Rawnei]

Aha, chatted with the creator of the Cyclops lamp and he pointed me in the right direction.

So I was assuming that the stereo cable had shared negative and two positive's but it's the other way around, lamp and buzzer share positive and have separate negatives.

[Rollin-on-1]

5 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Aha, chatted with the creator of the Cyclops lamp and he pointed me in the right direction.

So I was assuming that the stereo cable had shared negative and two positive's but it's the other way around, lamp and buzzer share positive and have separate negatives.

Interesting, I wouldn't have expected that.  Thanks for digging into it and reporting back with your findings.

[Planemo]

I do know for sure that not all piezo's are built equally lol, after buying loads of different ones to try and increase the volume on my MSX.

I think your questions may have already been answered, but yes there are active and non-active. The stock MSX one (SFM-27) was the loudest I could find, even comparing to other similar active piezo's. I never got to the bottom of why that was...! In true scientific conclusion, all I could come up with was that there was something else going on than just feeding it a std DC input.

After much trial and tribulation I simply ended up mounting the stock SFM-27 to the top of the wheel and all was good in the world

I'm not able to give any decent help I'm afraid.

 

[Rawnei]

30 minutes ago, Planemo said:

I do know for sure that not all piezo's are built equally lol, after buying loads of different ones to try and increase the volume on my MSX.

I think your questions may have already been answered, but yes there are active and non-active. The stock MSX one (SFM-27) was the loudest I could find, even comparing to other similar active piezo's. I never got to the bottom of why that was...! In true scientific conclusion, all I could come up with was that there was something else going on than just feeding it a std DC input.

After much trial and tribulation I simply ended up mounting the stock SFM-27 to the top of the wheel and all was good in the world

I'm not able to give any decent help I'm afraid.

 

The SFM-27 is quite large comparatively speaking to other Piezo's probably why it's so loud, it also has a very open design so it's not waterproof in the slightest, you can waterproof it somewhat but then volume will be lower, I ordered some waterproof ones instead and they are about 10dB lower (~85dB) which is a good tradeoff for me, even with SFM-27 on the outside of the wheel I can not hear it over wind noise while wearing motorcycle helmet, people behind and in front can even hear it better, it's just something about being above a Piezo in those conditions making it difficult to hear.

[Planemo]

10 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

people behind and in front can even hear it better, it's just something about being above a Piezo in those conditions making it difficult to hear.

Yeah thats a big problem with piezo, they are very directional, the dB drops off dramatically depending on where it's pointed and just as important it what it reflects off. I found that having it pointing say 5 degrees away from me was quieter than having it 15 deg away and it bouncing off a fence panel 10 feet away. Frustrating!

[stephen]

there's a new update so you can turn the beeper down but it doesn't affect your pwm beeps

Edited September 5, 2023 by stephen

[jugon666]

Hi guys, I am looking for the protecting metal coil that goes over the motor wire on the Sherman S... does anyone know where I can get this part? I don't know if this has been asked before so my apologies and thank you in advance!

 

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, jugon666 said:

Hi guys, I am looking for the protecting metal coil that goes over the motor wire on the Sherman S... does anyone know where I can get this part? I don't know if this has been asked before so my apologies and thank you in advance!

Contact your reseller or contact MyEwheel they could probably help you.

[jugon666]

On 9/5/2023 at 4:47 PM, Rawnei said:

Contact your reseller or contact MyEwheel they could probably help you.

fyi, I have contacted myEWheels support and the answer I got is that they dont have the coil as a spare part and Leaperkim itself will not sell it separately from an entire motor assembly! so it would be welcome if someone has an idea of where to get an off the shelf similar replacement. 

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, jugon666 said:

fyi, I have contacted myEWheels support and the answer I got is that they dont have the coil as a spare part and Leaperkim itself will not sell it separately from an entire motor assembly! so it would be welcome if someone has an idea of where to get an off the shelf similar replacement. 

Well that sucks, you would need to know the length and diameter and material to source it from somewhere.

[Rawnei]

A small Sherman S PSA: One of my Sherman S pedals (the right one) have been "clicking" for a couple of months and I've been feeling a slight movement just lifting my heel or moving my foot around, really subtle but also very annoying feeling, just glancing at things I couldn't see the problem but today I decided to go to the bottom with it and disassembled the whole pedal, turns out the small ratchet part that sits on the pedal hanger (not the one that is on the pedal) is mounted with a Philips screw to the pedal hanger and it was loose causing a slight movement in the whole ratchet mechanism and making the pedal behave in this way.

The only way to reach this screw is to dismantle the pedal from the hanger, you can't use a normal screwdriver to tighten it as there's no space so you will have to use an angled tool.

Edit: Thinking more about it, one thing that could possible cause it to become loose if you tighten the ratchet mechanism too much putting too much pressure on it.

Edited September 12, 2023 by Rawnei

[KiwiMark]

Anyone else dislike the ratchet system on the pedals? This is one of the reasons I favoured the change to the NyloNove pedals, I was very happy to ditch the ratchet and just have a bit of friction to have the pedals stay in the folded position.

[jugon666]

7 hours ago, Rawnei said:

A small Sherman S PSA: One of my Sherman S pedals (the right one) have been "clicking" for a couple of months and I've been feeling a slight movement just lifting my heel or moving my foot around, really subtle but also very annoying feeling, just glancing at things I couldn't see the problem but today I decided to go to the bottom with it and disassembled the whole pedal, turns out the small ratchet part that sits on the pedal hanger (not the one that is on the pedal) is mounted with a Philips screw to the pedal hanger and it was loose causing a slight movement in the whole ratchet mechanism and making the pedal behave in this way.

The only way to reach this screw is to dismantle the pedal from the hanger, you can't use a normal screwdriver to tighten it as there's no space so you will have to use an angled tool.

Edit: Thinking more about it, one thing that could possible cause it to become loose if you tighten the ratchet mechanism too much putting too much pressure on it.

I removed that dumb friction ratchet piece off the first day I got the sherman s... I dont understand why those are needed as both pedals just hold themselves in position without flapping anyway

[Clem604]

3 hours ago, jugon666 said:

I removed that dumb friction ratchet piece off the first day I got the sherman s... I dont understand why those are needed as both pedals just hold themselves in position without flapping anyway

Same here, I really didn't like the ratcheting system.

[Rawnei]

8 hours ago, KiwiMark said:

Anyone else dislike the ratchet system on the pedals? This is one of the reasons I favoured the change to the NyloNove pedals, I was very happy to ditch the ratchet and just have a bit of friction to have the pedals stay in the folded position.

Doesn't really bother me.

[Clem604]

I've just rolled over 10,000km's (6213 Miles) today on my Sherman S since taking ownership in early March of this year. I just wanted to update everyone on how the wheel has been holding up.

1) Shocks have some stiction but it doesn't effect the performance, at least that I can feel. The stiction would most likely be remedied with new seals and oil as per @Rawnei's DIY posts. The suspension still works well and is leak free!

2) The original bearings are still working and I've had no issues with them.

3) The wheel has reset itself a total of 2 times now but the latest update (I was behind) says to have corrected this issue

4) The Michelin Pilot Street 2 has been on the wheel since new. The tire looks to have at least 2 thousand km's left of life before I reach the wear bars, I'm impressed.

5) No issues with any screws coming loose, the wheel was checked over every 2000km's or so

 

Edit: I should also mention that I have that suspension "clonk" sound that others in the Patton thread have mentioned but that doesn't seem to be affecting performance? I'm not sure what that is but the suspension still works as it should.

Edited September 22, 2023 by Clem604

[Hellkitten]

Well I guess I’ll also give an update on mine too. Somewhere around 4,000km (my wheel has reset 4 times now so that’s an approximate number. I have the newest firmware 3.0.12. My friend also has the update and his Sherman reset last night so it looks like it STILL has that glitch……..

1) suspension is still good, not stiction no leaks. 

2) bearings are still good. I had a bit of weird noise from them in the first few hundred kms, but it’s long gone now. 

3) still have the stock tire on. I didn’t like it much at first, but it’s worn in and I’ve gotten used to the way it rides. I do love the sound of a swarm of angry wasps when accelerating. I have a new street pilot I might put on when the knobby wears out. 
 

love this wheel. ❤️❤️

[Clem604]

24 minutes ago, Hellkitten said:

 I have a new street pilot I might put on when the knobby wears out.

@Kekafuch has gotten over 16,000km's on the Kenda knobby on his OG Sherman before they were fully worn out. You still have a while to go

[techyiam]

5 hours ago, Clem604 said:

I've just rolled over 10,000km's (6213 Miles) today on my Sherman S since taking ownership early March of this year. I just wanted to update everyone on how the wheel has been holding up.

Congrats for reaching the 10,000 km's milestone.

You are like riding around 60 km's a day on average, every day for 6 months. I got my Abrams about 3 or 4 months before you got your Sherman S, and I am still less than 7000 km's.

Also, you must have save a whole bunch of money by not having to drive. And had a great time while doing it.

[Clem604]

6 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Congrats for reaching the 10,000 km's milestone.

You are like riding around 60 km's a day on average, every day for 6 months. I got my Abrams about 3 or 4 months before you got your Sherman S, and I am still less than 7000 km's.

Also, you must have save a whole bunch of money by not having to drive. And had a great time while doing it.

Thanks! I ride it to work 5 days a week (if it's not raining) and I usually ride on my days off too. I'm really getting decent value out of the wheel by not having to drive.

Edited September 17, 2023 by Clem604

[Clem604]

The Cyclop "Pro" headlight is now avaliable 👁️

https://hulaj.market/electric-unicycles/1807-front-lamp-cyclop-pro-to-veteran-patton-sherman-s.html

Edited September 25, 2023 by Clem604