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On 12/15/2022 at 9:53 PM, StefanBRO said:

Does anyone have any idea why my v2 wheel has been giving a very slight judder at very low speed occasionally? It just feels like a tiny vibration for a split second. Yesterday I updated it to the 2204 firmware and as I was testing it about a mile into the ride I felt the judder / vibration at low speed and EUC world reported the voltage dropping to 0.1 volts and my safety margin went to -20,000. I swear I'd noticed it before the firmware so I don't think it's related to that. The wheels only got 450 miles on it and it's pretty much exclusively street, I've dropped off a handful of curbs but nothing intense.

Voltage drop is weird. Check also your batteries connectors

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On 12/16/2022 at 7:53 AM, StefanBRO said:

Does anyone have any idea why my v2 wheel has been giving a very slight judder at very low speed occasionally?

 

Had similar problem. 

Wheel shuddered/vibrated violently when braking.

Try tightening the pedal hangers/axle connection. 

Try tightening the shell/wheel connection.

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On 12/19/2022 at 3:52 AM, Ben Kim said:

Does anyone know why the T4 is so underpowered for a C30 100v wheel? I would imagine it should at least be on par with a Nikola given its the same battery capacity and motor. 

there are like 3 version of t4 out there now :D. V1 is definitely less powerfull compared to v12 / rs 19 HT. Seems like v3 can climb stairs. 

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19 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

there are like 3 version of t4 out there now :D. V1 is definitely less powerfull compared to v12 / rs 19 HT. Seems like v3 can climb stairs. 

What's new on the V3 do you know though? This one isn't that clear.

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13 minutes ago, adrianqbs said:

What's new on the V3 do you know though? This one isn't that clear.

I think I posted a board pic here - There is a new board layout with more power / more fets / better caps.  Look more like a real unicycle board. I hope for the best ... so far i did puncture a tube on a tire change like an idiot... I will let you know guys if new board is really better or not. As soon as the temp outside will move above zero :D.

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On 12/2/2022 at 6:15 PM, daniel1234 said:

Hi all,

I got my package finally - Looking at new design of T4 v2 mainboard - looks a little more grown up. Definitely easily recognizable !
I like new cap placment design with shorter legs and seems like there is extra row of mosfets. 

Shame, it is freezing outside :(

t4.jpg

Ahhh... Did you have to get another v3 board after this replacement? 

V1 -to V2 was a move from 12 to 18 mosfet board. 

V2 to V3 would be capacitors or some other changes? 

So hard to keep track of the constant changes between batches. 

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3 hours ago, adrianqbs said:

Ahhh... Did you have to get another v3 board after this replacement? 

V1 -to V2 was a move from 12 to 18 mosfet board. 

V2 to V3 would be capacitors or some other changes? 

So hard to keep track of the constant changes between batches. 

No, I thought it was V2 board but it is actually V3, seller messed it up (that's why it doesn't fit) - my theory:

V2 have just a different bottom switching layer with more fets - but uses different FW - visually similar as V1 - should be compatible without wire mod.

v3 have new CAPs and different DC-DC. Seems like it shares the layout with different wheels because of the extra pin headers. I am pretty sure there will be more revisions.

 

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17 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

No, I thought it was V2 board but it is actually V3, seller messed it up (that's why it doesn't fit) - my theory:

V2 have just a different bottom switching layer with more fets - but uses different FW - visually similar as V1 - should be compatible without wire mod.

v3 have new CAPs and different DC-DC. Seems like it shares the layout with different wheels because of the extra pin headers. I am pretty sure there will be more revisions.

 

Ahhhh... Gotcha. Was it difficult fitting the V3 board into the V1 space? 

I'm actually considering taking the offer to upgrade to a new board and motor. But wanna wait until things settle down a bit. 

10 minutes ago, FarkyJ said:

ok with this constant changes i would like to buy the COMPLETE T4 at least in april/may....that would be nice begode..

Totally. After buying 2 brand new first batch wheels, never again. Gonna wait 6 months at least and see what's happening. 

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Hi, after mainboard replacement wheel do NOT start. After taking wheel out of transport mode it did not balance. It did not boot again. Fuck I am so unlucky. My t4 experience is officially a nightmare. 

Can I do something if seller from aliexpress is not responding? Is there any way how to contact begode directly ?

Since wheel give back resistance I think fets are blown. After removing phase wires wheel spins ok.

 

Edited by daniel1234
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1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

Hi, after mainboard replacement wheel do NOT start. After taking wheel out of transport mode it did not balance. It did not boot again. Fuck I am so unlucky. My t4 experience is officially a nightmare. 

Can I do something if seller from aliexpress is not responding?

The only official way woild be to hire a chinese lawyer to start a accusation/prosecution? But hpnestly i doubt, without knowing the story there would be any chance succeed.

The other way would be to report your story here and/or on other places and name and shame the reseller. Depending on your story and a possible reseller reply such procedure is more likely to work out.

1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

Is there any way how to contact begode directly ?

Begode is not involved in your transaction. Bit they could decide to deliberately help you. They are not active here since some time -maybe you can reach them per telegram/facebook/email?

1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

Since wheel give back resistance I think fets are blown. After removing phase wires wheel spins ok.

+1. Quite sure a blown mosfet.

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Dammit - sorry to hear you are having such a run of bad luck. Yes, I was gonna say might be overall less hassle to take to specialist dealer in your country, or even to local general electronics shop, explain that you suspect the mosfets and some might need some sourcing and replacing. I bet that will get you up and running faster than entering protracted communications and shipping from China, and might not cost that much in terms of parts or labour time ?

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I see in your video you are using metal pliers to grab the wires and/or control board... there is a possibility you could have caused a short if you did not properly drain the capacitors before starting repairs.

Always prudent to wear gloves and use plastic tools when working near electronics.

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An update on the T4 design iteration discussion.

I just got one straight off the boat from China. Still has the board with two large capacitors, no other obvious changes from a quick look of the internals. No kick stand provided (not sure why some people are expecting this).

There has been some improvement though! They've changed the machining on the pedals, no more Dremel's or Zip ties needed, they're now "spiky".

lhOZlwNb_o.png

 

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4 hours ago, Mango said:

I see in your video you are using metal pliers to grab the wires and/or control board... there is a possibility you could have caused a short if you did not properly drain the capacitors before starting repairs.

Always prudent to wear gloves and use plastic tools when working near electronics.

No. I always discharge caps after unplugging batteries .  I did burn already too many electronic boards ... 

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2 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

No. I always discharge caps after unplugging batteries.

What's the proper way of doing it on the T4? When unplugging batteries I then turn the wheel on and it does so briefly, then turns off. Is that sufficient?

When plugging the batteries back in, usually at least one of the connectors sparks. Am I doing something wrong? Or is there a way to avoid this?

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7 minutes ago, pHghost said:

What's the proper way of doing it on the T4? When unplugging batteries I then turn the wheel on and it does so briefly, then turns off. Is that sufficient?

When plugging the batteries back in, usually at least one of the connectors sparks. Am I doing something wrong? Or is there a way to avoid this?

This is perfectly fine. Don't worry about it 😉

The way to avoid the sparks wod be to have a smart BMS or a non spark plug. Both of which aren't on the T4. So that's just something that's gonna happen. Not a big deal. 

Although, as a precaution, always put a bit of tape over the plugs to cover the holes after disconnecting. However unlikely, don't want anything to get in there to short something. 

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14 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

Hi, after mainboard replacement wheel do NOT start. After taking wheel out of transport mode it did not balance. It did not boot again. Fuck I am so unlucky. My t4 experience is officially a nightmare. 

Can I do something if seller from aliexpress is not responding? Is there any way how to contact begode directly ?

Since wheel give back resistance I think fets are blown. After removing phase wires wheel spins ok.

 

Really sorry to hear that man. Do hope your seller will reply though. He could be just taking a while off for the holidays hopefully. Mainland Chinese generally aren't Christians, but the commercialization of Christmas has certainly reached China. 

That's definitely a symptom of a blown MOSFET though. Really sucks. 

Kebye gotway seems pretty active on Facebook. You can just search for his name. You can also look up Levi. Or Milli. Some profiles have the phones numbers, you can add them on wechat and see. 

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008506800516&mibextid=ZbWKwL

https://www.facebook.com/feichebiao?mibextid=ZbWKwL

https://www.facebook.com/milli.zhao.7?mibextid=ZbWKwL

Although, I'm not sure how much BEGODE protects local dealers in your area and if BEGODE will service a wheel not bought from the local dealer. It could be possible that your Chinese dealer would be your only avenue.

Edited by adrianqbs
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Unfortunately in czech republic(EU) we don't have an official distributor. e-rides EU dont wanna support T4 because of bad press :D. I am starting to appreciate my kingsong s18, where I took apart wheel once, and it rides flawlessly over 3k km. I don't even remember how T4 rides ... I just know how to take it apart. And what to fix next.

This is a really expensive mistake, this T4. Hsiang have at review same problem with V1 board as I have. Above 75 pwm EUC is unstable. 

- I can buy another board - again - 350 bucks. It can die again randomly. 
- I can pay somebody to re-solder all MOSFETs for better ones. Around 250 bucks with work.
- I can use that old V1 board with 75 PWM pushback and hope it will not nosedive again.

ps.: 
1, I re-taped screw holes to fit the new board into v1 case - be careful to force screws in.
2, Cables for the light and buzzer need to be at least twice as long . 

3, I always check battery with a multimeter before connecting them together. Always cover hot ports with electrical tape. Static electricity is bitch as well. I don't think gloves will help since you need agility in a confined space.

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19 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

Since wheel give back resistance I think fets are blown. After removing phase wires wheel spins ok.

Is this resistance present with battery connected or even if you disconnect all batteries?

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1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

Unfortunately in czech republic(EU) we don't have an official distributor. e-rides EU dont wanna support T4 because of bad press :D. I am starting to appreciate my kingsong s18, where I took apart wheel once, and it rides flawlessly over 3k km. I don't even remember how T4 rides ... I just know how to take it apart. And what to fix next.

This is a really expensive mistake, this T4. Hsiang have at review same problem with V1 board as I have. Above 75 pwm EUC is unstable. 

- I can buy another board - again - 350 bucks. It can die again randomly. 
- I can pay somebody to re-solder all MOSFETs for better ones. Around 250 bucks with work.
- I can use that old V1 board with 75 PWM pushback and hope it will not nosedive again.

ps.: 
1, I re-taped screw holes to fit the new board into v1 case - be careful to force screws in.
2, Cables for the light and buzzer need to be at least twice as long . 

3, I always check battery with a multimeter before connecting them together. Always cover hot ports with electrical tape. Static electricity is bitch as well. I don't think gloves will help since you need agility in a confined space.

Hey man,

In that case, maybe you can try talking to Milli and Kebye, see if they respond. I'll ask my dealer here if he can/will help you out. Maybe help you order parts if needed. You'll still have to pay, but at least it might be a bit more responsive.

Actually, you can DM him on IG. Futurespeedmy

1/2. do you think you could show some pictures? I'm toying with the video of getting the new board and new motor to upgrade my V1. Want to see if it's worth the trouble.

3. instead of gloves, maybe try an anti static wrist strap. We used that when building PCs and miners. Although, I've often been lazy wihtout any mishaps......yet.

Edited by adrianqbs
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13 hours ago, adrianqbs said:

Really sorry to hear that man. Do hope your seller will reply though. He could be just taking a while off for the holidays hopefully. Mainland Chinese generally aren't Christians, but the commercialization of Christmas has certainly reached China. 

That's definitely a symptom of a blown MOSFET though. Really sucks. 

Kebye gotway seems pretty active on Facebook. You can just search for his name. You can also look up Levi. Or Milli. Some profiles have the phones numbers, you can add them on wechat and see. 

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008506800516&mibextid=ZbWKwL

https://www.facebook.com/feichebiao?mibextid=ZbWKwL

https://www.facebook.com/milli.zhao.7?mibextid=ZbWKwL

Although, I'm not sure how much BEGODE protects local dealers in your area and if BEGODE will service a wheel not bought from the local dealer. It could be possible that your Chinese dealer would be your only avenue.

In addition @daniel1234, you may bump them in this topic: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectricUnicycle/permalink/5495293060568612/

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