Begode T4

[morning2017]

15 hours ago, RolluS said:

예, 서스펜션은 뻣뻣하지만 여전히 편안하고 다른 16인치 비서스펜션 휠에 비해 승차할 수 있습니다.

 

나는 Nylonove 서스펜션 암을 가지고 있습니다.

I'm interested in this. Is there any change in pedal height when riding? Sag or shock preload

[RolluS]

17 hours ago, alexbrunoeuc said:

Did you swap it just for extra comfort or did you bottom out with the stock arms? 

_____

Your wheel looks fantastic 🤩

Just for extra comfort, no bottoming out (sportive urban riding with some jumps).

 

Thank you 🤟🏻

[RolluS]

13 hours ago, morning2017 said:

I'm interested in this. Is there any change in pedal height when riding? Sag or shock preload

No change, only the travel/shock ratio change as per the curve I posted earlier. I use stock shock

[bd73]

Hey all, new member here and deciding what to get for my first EUC. I realize the first batch ones are having some issues, but one thing I can't seem to find is any info on how waterproof the T4 is? I'm in Florida and it will randomly rain here leaving puddles everywhere. Will that kill the T4? I'm deciding between this and an Inmotion V11.

[pHghost]

From what I can tell watching videos online, you'll definitely want to apply some silicon at least. Can't say much more, as my own T4 isn't due for another couple days, but will say more once I've had a chance to inspect it! But I did get it despite living the UK, which I suspect is worse than Florida rain-wise (not counting hurricanes and such, LOL).

[daniel1234]

49 minutes ago, pHghost said:

From what I can tell watching videos online, you'll definitely want to apply some silicon at least. Can't say much more, as my own T4 isn't due for another couple days, but will say more once I've had a chance to inspect it! But I did get it despite living the UK, which I suspect is worse than Florida rain-wise (not counting hurricanes and such, LOL).

T4 needs mainly better fender if you wanna ride through puddles. I thrown away stock top gasket and sealing top with power tape. Charge port is main problem ... front Motor cable hole is the second.  
 

[bd73]

8 hours ago, pHghost said:

From what I can tell watching videos online, you'll definitely want to apply some silicon at least. Can't say much more, as my own T4 isn't due for another couple days, but will say more once I've had a chance to inspect it! But I did get it despite living the UK, which I suspect is worse than Florida rain-wise (not counting hurricanes and such, LOL).

 

7 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

T4 needs mainly better fender if you wanna ride through puddles. I thrown away stock top gasket and sealing top with power tape. Charge port is main problem ... front Motor cable hole is the second.  
 

Appreciate the feedback! I will definitely look into getting a better fender along with sealing any open areas I can find. 

Now I have another question. I found a T4 on FB Marketplace and it has the ZX motor. I've messaged the seller to try and figure out who they bought it from for warranty service so I can get the motor replaced, but no response so far. Assuming the seller continue to be unresponsive, would I just email Begode for warranty on this? Or would I have to ship the T4 to them and have them replace it? Either or is fine with me, I just want to get an idea of what I'm getting into before I buy this persons T4.

[mrelwood]

 

18 hours ago, bd73 said:

I'm deciding between this and an Inmotion V11.

Purely from the aspect of water resistance, V11’s with the bearing seal since about May ‘21) are pretty much as waterproof as EUCs get. The controller is completely sealed from water ingress, and the batteries are well sealed as well. Begode wheels tend to require comprehensive efforts to seal them up properly.

 

4 hours ago, bd73 said:

would I just email Begode for warranty on this?

Might be rather difficult to get in touch with Begode directly.

4 hours ago, bd73 said:

Or would I have to ship the T4 to them and have them replace it?

Warranties are generally provided by the distributor/reseller, so buying a second hand wheel you should prepare for having zero warranty support from the manufacturer. Or the distributor.

[Ben Kim]

5 hours ago, bd73 said:

 

Appreciate the feedback! I will definitely look into getting a better fender along with sealing any open areas I can find. 

Now I have another question. I found a T4 on FB Marketplace and it has the ZX motor. I've messaged the seller to try and figure out who they bought it from for warranty service so I can get the motor replaced, but no response so far. Assuming the seller continue to be unresponsive, would I just email Begode for warranty on this? Or would I have to ship the T4 to them and have them replace it? Either or is fine with me, I just want to get an idea of what I'm getting into before I buy this persons T4.

Ask the seller who they bought the wheel from. If it’s ewheels you’re good, if it’s alien rides (or others) you may need to get the warranty transferred. 

[bd73]

1 hour ago, Ben Kim said:

Ask the seller who they bought the wheel from. If it’s ewheels you’re good, if it’s alien rides (or others) you may need to get the warranty transferred. 

In the process of doing that, but they've been unresponsive for a few days now.

2 hours ago, mrelwood said:

 

Purely from the aspect of water resistance, V11’s with the bearing seal since about May ‘21) are pretty much as waterproof as EUCs get. The controller is completely sealed from water ingress, and the batteries are well sealed as well. Begode wheels tend to require comprehensive efforts to seal them up properly.

 

Might be rather difficult to get in touch with Begode directly.

Warranties are generally provided by the distributor/reseller, so buying a second hand wheel you should prepare for having zero warranty support from the manufacturer. Or the distributor.

Well that's unfortunate. Looks like I'll likely end up going with a V11 then. Based on your comments it might be a better option for me anyway though.

[Ben Kim]

22 minutes ago, bd73 said:

In the process of doing that, but they've been unresponsive for a few days now.

Well that's unfortunate. Looks like I'll likely end up going with a V11 then. Based on your comments it might be a better option for me anyway though.

The T4 does have a more robust suspension mechanism (the wheel is suspended not the pedals like the v11) should perform better and have slightly more range than a V11. It will also be much more playful than an 18 inch wheel which you may or may not care about. 

I personally disliked non suspension 16 inch wheels due to their harshness on bad roads, but with suspension that argument goes away.

T4 is also mountains easier to service, if you’re a DIY guy. 

Water resistance doesn’t pass the eyeball test but the electronics can easily be covered with a bag cover or something along those lines. t4 is also going to be more susceptible to major damage from a crash due to its lack of a proper shell (unless you spend hundreds on a fairing kit or 3D print one on your own) 

[bd73]

4 hours ago, Ben Kim said:

The T4 does have a more robust suspension mechanism (the wheel is suspended not the pedals like the v11) should perform better and have slightly more range than a V11. It will also be much more playful than an 18 inch wheel which you may or may not care about. 

I personally disliked non suspension 16 inch wheels due to their harshness on bad roads, but with suspension that argument goes away.

T4 is also mountains easier to service, if you’re a DIY guy. 

Water resistance doesn’t pass the eyeball test but the electronics can easily be covered with a bag cover or something along those lines. t4 is also going to be more susceptible to major damage from a crash due to its lack of a proper shell (unless you spend hundreds on a fairing kit or 3D print one on your own) 

The smaller size and it being more playful/nimble is what really drew me to the T4 to be honest, so if I'm being honest I would much rather get that than a larger wheel. And as you said the fact it has a better suspension is another big reason. 

I watched a few teardowns of the T4 and it did seem pretty straightforward which is why I was hoping there was a way I could get the new motor from Begode or a reseller and replace it myself. I noticed eWheels is pretty close to me maybe I'll try giving them a call and see if they would be able to source one for me. 

The T4 I'm thinking of buying also comes with a fairing kit so that should protect it somewhat if I do end up buying it. 

Edited December 8, 2022 by bd73

[pHghost]

So, just got my T4! Woo!

 

...

 

Of course, came with issues out of the box. Lights and screen don't turn on -- seems cold-related, so same issue as @RolluS?

Secondly, cannot seems to get the pedals tight. Anyone else with this issue? One of them kind of tightens, but the other, no matter how tightly the grub screw goes in, it stays completely floppy. I think the holes might be misaligned, so the grub screw passes under the pedal bar, rather than touching it.

 

Also bricked the wheel updating the firmware, too, but got it back up and running with the help of the video by @Gear, so on the latest firmware now.

Edited December 8, 2022 by pHghost

[pHghost]

This is how the holes line up in my T4. If anyone has a unit where you can tighten the pedals without issue, can you please send a picture as well for comparison?

[Ben Kim]

24 minutes ago, pHghost said:

This is how the holes line up in my T4. If anyone has a unit where you can tighten the pedals without issue, can you please send a picture as well for comparison?

Where’s the grub screw for that hole? 
 

Also, if you give it a few seconds the lights and lcd should start working if it’s cold. At least that’s how mine is 

Edited December 8, 2022 by Ben Kim

[pHghost]

26 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

Where’s the grub screw for that hole?  

I took it out to take the photo. So I think the white plastic bit actually slips under the pedal rods. Then only a bit of the grub screw metal touches the rod. That deforms quickly, meaning two things: a - the pedal is no longer held in place, b - the grub screw threading gets deformed and it's really hard to then remove the grub screw. Here is a comparison of a grub screw that was in the pedal rod hole with one that was used for the tension:

26 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

give it a few seconds the lights and lcd should start working if it’s cold

Yes, they have now. But does this mean they will stop working when riding out in the cold? Not too worried about the display, but certainly don't want the lights turning off on me when riding out in the winter nights. @RolluS did that new board fix this for you?

[RolluS]

On 12/8/2022 at 5:00 PM, pHghost said:

1/
I took it out to take the photo. So I think the white plastic bit actually slips under the pedal rods. Then only a bit of the grub screw metal touches the rod. That deforms quickly, meaning two things: a - the pedal is no longer held in place, b - the grub screw threading gets deformed and it's really hard to then remove the grub screw. Here is a comparison of a grub screw that was in the pedal rod hole with one that was used for the tension

2/Yes, they have now. But does this mean they will stop working when riding out in the cold? Not too worried about the display, but certainly don't want the lights turning off on me when riding out in the winter nights. @RolluS did that new board fix this for you?

1/
I use the plastic ended grub screw at the end of the rods, in pedals, so the plastic (probably PTFE) smooth pedal (un)folding and hold it.
I use a plain metal grub screw in the pedal holder, to prevent the rod from rotating or sliding.

2/
The new board did fix the problem of display/lights not turning on.
For electronic/SMD people, there is one resistor to change on the V1 board to fix the problem. The board that I received from Begode is a V1 modified one.

[pHghost]

So, if I understand right:

In the side (A) holes, you use the grub screw with the plastic that came with the T4.

But in the front (B) hole, you use a plain metal grub screw? What kind of design? Flat front, cone, convex? What side works best? I think they are M10 screws, but how long? Do you do anything else so it doesn't press together the screw thread and make it almost stuck inside, like in my photo?

Also, is your pedal rod so high up inside the hole as well?

Regarding the resistor, that's interesting, that seems it is solved fairly easily! Do you have a photo of the before and after with the different resistor? Is it easy to find? Is the difference between them the quality of the resistor, or the Ω rating?

Thanks!

Edited December 10, 2022 by pHghost

[pHghost]

On 12/5/2022 at 6:02 PM, RolluS said:

I like the way my wheel goes. I'll probablu change front bumper.

Nice!

I was thinking about putting together a custom fairing setup, but while I was looking around for inspiration, to see what was out there, I fell in love with what Grizzla have done, so I've ordered their set now.

[RolluS]

11 hours ago, pHghost said:

1/ In the side (A) holes, you use the grub screw with the plastic that came with the T4.

2/But in the front (B) hole, you use a plain metal grub screw? What kind of design? Flat front, cone, convex? What side works best? I think they are M10 screws, but how long? Do you do anything else so it doesn't press together the screw thread and make it almost stuck inside, like in my photo?

3/Also, is your pedal rod so high up inside the hole as well?

4/Regarding the resistor, that's interesting, that seems it is solved fairly easily! Do you have a photo of the before and after with the different resistor? Is it easy to find? Is the difference between them the quality of the resistor, or the Ω rating?

1/ yes

2/ I think it's standard M10x10 grub screw:

 

3/ yes

4/ See pic below:

 

 

[RolluS]

10 hours ago, pHghost said:

Nice!

I was thinking about putting together a custom fairing setup, but while I was looking around for inspiration, to see what was out there, I fell in love with what Grizzla have done, so I've ordered their set now.

These are clarkpad fairing + torquepads pads. Rear bumper is Nylonove.

I agree that the full grizzla kit is neat ! (I've choosen clarkpad as it came earlier)

[pHghost]

6 hours ago, RolluS said:

 

Now, who is more trustworthy, the Russians or Begode? 

Thanks for all the info! I'll see if I manage to get my distributor to send me a replacement, otherwise I guess I'll have to get out my soldering kit!

 

When I saw some of the fairing setups on offer, at first I though I could make something similar myself for a lot cheaper, but with the Grizzla, I was very impressed by the details (how if flows together nicely) and extras (full-size bottom battery protectors), almost making it look like the wheel was designed to look like that in the first place!

[RolluS]

I fully agree for the Grizzla details.

I like the similar flow with Clarkpad and the seat (for the master). I know a seat is under study at clarkpad and so I bet on it

[Seba]

On 12/4/2022 at 7:46 PM, adrianqbs said:

Reading on the packs with a 4 packs plugged in gives 101.1v. Which is good. But the apps (begode, darknessbot, EUC world) report 98.6v. So, are the apps wrong or the multimeter wrong. Lol. All the apps probably just read the same information sent out by the wheel anyways. 

Apps shows what motherboard measures and then sends over Bluetooth link. Both motherboard and multimeter have some measurement error, so both can be wrong. What is the model of your multimeter?

[pHghost]

On 12/11/2022 at 10:52 AM, RolluS said:

See pic below:

 

 

So is this a photo of the Russian fix? Because that looks like a 2kΩ resistor.

 

18 hours ago, RolluS said:

I know a seat is under study at clarkpad and so I bet on it

Fair enough! If that is the case, it's something to look forward to!

Edited December 12, 2022 by pHghost