Begode T4

[daniel1234]

18 hours ago, techyiam said:

Didn't Begode announced earlier that they have extended the warranty for the T4 and the Master (plus other specific wheels) for 2 years?

That was nice announcement but still reseller did not care -> They told me I was bad rider . 

It was nice promise but when I needed new board nobody cared. Begode is hiding behind resellers - reseller can forward your warranty claim to begode and then they will denied it - if they like. 

[daniel1234]

10 hours ago, RolluS said:

The mux is faulty, I couldn't charge but I don't know the reasons.

 

Thank you for info - My last ride voltage was spiking way low. I could have same 'feature' / problem. That early adopter pain ...  Never again. Who knows what else will happen with our wheel over winter. How much mux board cost ?

About range : it is around 0 degree C in my country, so it is like 40 km on T4.  Less than before (55 before)- probably NOT because temperature and not the QS motor 

[RolluS]

5 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

How much mux board cost ?

It cost me a mail and a video. Board is under the 2 years warranty.

[RolluS]

I received my Nylonove order

I will installeverything once I'll receive Clarkpads fairings (maybe front bumper will interfere, I'll see)

That's heavy (display of the scale: xxx.x grams)

[pHghost]

On 11/28/2022 at 3:14 AM, Mango said:

Also did a diy stator mod for my ZX motor

Any chance you have any photos of how that looks, or how the process went?

[RolluS]

2 hours ago, pHghost said:

Any chance you have any photos of how that looks, or how the process went?

Here are mine:

[RolluS]

[RolluS]

[pHghost]

@RolluS Thanks for these!

Did you drill all the way through, or jut part-way? What did you use in the holes, and did you glue it in?

I suppose this is your ZX motor -- you then switched to the QS one anyway, did the ZX fail even with pinning?

I should be receiving a T4 soon as well and suspect it is still a ZX motor version.  

So I'm wondering, it it worth putting some work into it and will it make it solid enough to last, or is it best to hope for the motor to fail as soon as possible to get a QS replacement?

 

 

[Ben Kim]

54 minutes ago, pHghost said:

@RolluS Thanks for these!

Did you drill all the way through, or jut part-way? What did you use in the holes, and did you glue it in?

I suppose this is your ZX motor -- you then switched to the QS one anyway, did the ZX fail even with pinning?

I should be receiving a T4 soon as well and suspect it is still a ZX motor version.  

So I'm wondering, it it worth putting some work into it and will it make it solid enough to last, or is it best to hope for the motor to fail as soon as possible to get a QS replacement?

 

 

Am I the only one who wants a ZX motor instead of a QS? 😁 the loss of top speed is worrisome. 

[EUCzero]

14 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

Am I the only one who wants a ZX motor instead of a QS? 😁 the loss of top speed is worrisome. 

All the others want a motor without stator slipping. And at the moment that seems to be the QS.

[pHghost]

To be honest, @Ben Kim, if pinning it makes it slip-safe, I'd probably prefer to keep the ZX as well, with slightly more speed overhead and less worry about a cutout.

That's why I'm wondering about what others like @RolluS and @Mango have done and their experience with pinning it themselves.

I'm apprehensive about the stator slip, but if I can prevent that with a bit of DIY and otherwise the wheel will be solid, I'll be happy with that. 

[techyiam]

25 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

Am I the only one who wants a ZX motor instead of a QS? 😁 the loss of top speed is worrisome. 

Probably. 

But doesn't pinning the motor is enough to resolve the stator slipping issue?

If so, you can have your cake and eat it too. 🙂

(Warning, I don't own an S22 nor T4. I have no experience with pinned motors.)

[Ben Kim]

1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

All the others want a motor without stator slipping. And at the moment that seems to be the QS.

It appears the stator slipping can be fixed though. If someone shared how I may very well just swap the motor (should be easy to get) for a higher top speed. 

[techyiam]

11 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

It appears the stator slipping can be fixed though. If someone shared how I may very well just swap the motor (should be easy to get) for a higher top speed. 

Doesn't Kingsong, or some Youtuber has a video showing where they drilled. Wasn't the Russians started to do this first on the S22?

To doing it properly, I think it is a big job though. You need to at least remove both covers and and maybe even remove the stator-hub assembly out of the wheel first.

[Mango]

stator zx pinning video, turn on autotranslate cc

 

for my diy, I drilled a 1mm pilot hole and finished with a 3mm-ish hole and tapped it at 4mm. I used m4-12 pan head screws. drill as close to the boundary between stator as possible. there are photos at ecodrift of the T4 teardown showing where the two join.

this is my diy mod. used red loctite. the pan head screw has vertical clearance. do on opposite side to balance motor.

[Ben Kim]

7 hours ago, EUCzero said:

All the others want a motor without stator slipping. And at the moment that seems to be the QS.

received my batch 2 T4; no load speed at full battery is 77.6 kph. Appears the issue is mating v1 control boards with QS motors. 

Edited November 30, 2022 by Ben Kim

[Ben Kim]

Quick review of batch 2 T4:

One of my taillights is DOA. 

knobby is EXCELLENT, carves amazingly, turns amazingly, no weird gyro effect like the c-1488, bumblebee noise but that’s to be expected riding a knobby on the street. No complaints but will probably swap to H666 or C1773 when this goes bald. 

the mten4 pedals suck. Oh god they suck. Swapping my spare set of RS pedals on them tomorrow. My foot was slipping just mounting the wheel, that doesn’t inspire much confidence. 

the stock pad adhesive also sucks. One came off the wheel while I was riding and nearly ate shit if the other one didn’t save me. foot slipped slightly off the pedal as well. probably will velcro them on or go 3rd party. 

pedal modes are kinda stiff. Soft mode feels like a dippy hard mode, will try medium tomorrow. 

suspension takes way less pressure than my EX20S. That wheel sits around 240 psi for my weight, 200 on this wheel was too stiff. Dropped it to 180 and all is well. No complaints here. 

will do an 80% run tomorrow, weather permitting. 

77.6 kph no load lift at full battery, I think the fears of lower top speed may have been premature. Confirmed QS motor. 
 

 

Edited November 30, 2022 by Ben Kim

[RolluS]

14 hours ago, pHghost said:

@RolluS Thanks for these!

Did you drill all the way through, or jut part-way? What did you use in the holes, and did you glue it in?

I suppose this is your ZX motor -- you then switched to the QS one anyway, did the ZX fail even with pinning?

I should be receiving a T4 soon as well and suspect it is still a ZX motor version.  

So I'm wondering, it it worth putting some work into it and will it make it solid enough to last, or is it best to hope for the motor to fail as soon as possible to get a QS replacement?

 

 

I drilled about 25mm. All the way out is at risk to touch the plastic ring supporting motor windings.
I tapped the hole and screwed a M3 stainless steel rod in with very strong loctite.

I switched to QS to test. I received it under warranty after a bearing issue. I do think ZX motor with pinning worth it: better top speed but little less torque than QS

I had a bearing issue, but no stator slip problem (I just pinned it as a preventive measure while it was opened for bearings)

17 hours ago, Ben Kim said:

Am I the only one who wants a ZX motor instead of a QS? 😁 the loss of top speed is worrisome. 

I keep both

Probably ZX with street tire and QS with knobby tire... I don't know yet, I'll see in spring (actually I daily ride QS with CST tire)

[RolluS]

9 hours ago, Ben Kim said:

received my batch 2 T4; no load speed at full battery is 77.6 kph. Appears the issue is mating v1 control boards with QS motors. 

Oh, thank you for this information. No load spin with full battery for me is 70kph (on T2 display) with QS motor and V1 board. I may have little drag du to oil seals I installed to improve water resistance of bearings, I don't know if it makes a difference

Edited November 30, 2022 by RolluS

[RolluS]

8 hours ago, Ben Kim said:

the stock pad adhesive also sucks. One came off the wheel while I was riding and nearly ate shit if the other one didn’t save me. foot slipped slightly off the pedal as well. probably will velcro them on or go 3rd party. 

adhesive need to be heated with hair dryer or heat gun before installing, and they even can survive one disassembly if reheated to reinstall.

[Ben Kim]

25 minutes ago, RolluS said:

Oh, thank you for this information. No load spin with full battery for me is 70kph (on T2 display) with QS motor and V1 board. I may have little drag du to oil seals I installed to improve water resistance of bearings, I don't know if it makes a difference

Now I have a different question, how would a ZX motor function on a batch2 board? Perhaps greater than 78 kph? 

[RolluS]

5 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

Now I have a different question, how would a ZX motor function on a batch2 board? Perhaps greater than 78 kph? 

Nice question !

[pHghost]

2 hours ago, RolluS said:

screwed a M3 stainless steel rod in

OK! Does it matter much if the material you put in is magnetic? I was thinking about aluminium vs. steel as an option.

Nice to have both motors, so now you have a backup! And if you have the other tire on the other motor, quicker to switch than a full tire change!

[RolluS]

A tire change might be quicker if you manage to put the valve in its hole without disconnecting cable wires.

I preferred to use no magnetic material to avoid a magnetic field shorting...