Begode T4

[enaon]

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Why will it fail ? 

for the reasons eucner explained, there should not be a hard bend point, it will become a weak point with time. 

[Funky]

26 minutes ago, enaon said:

for the reasons eucner explained, there should not be a hard bend point, it will become a weak point with time. 

In perfect world - you should not see any wires outside from euc body.

[Freeforester]

Look on it as a 3D printing opportunity, radiused/semi-circle ‘bends’/guide-guards of suitable size and temper (like miniature versions of hose guards often seen on the rear of washing machines and dishwashers) should surely mitigate any great risk, though users can of course periodically check up on this. 

[enaon]

7 hours ago, RolluS said:

but we have yet to see (unless I've missed it)

there has been a case allready on the t4, it seems that some are kind of ok, some like the one on the video have a few cm longer length on the cable exposed and this is causing a hard bend, those will fail sooner. 

https://streamable.com/dggvmf

the problem:

 

a solution, s18 style:

Edited October 21, 2022 by enaon

[RolluS]

I wasn't aware; thank you @enaon. S18 style seems a pretty good solution yes 

[RagingGrandpa]

A new controller design already? Change your mind 5 times Gotway, why not...

Quote

Newest iteration of T4 with knobby tire, Mten4 pedals and QS motors in stock now at AlienRides. Couple other small changes like a thick covering on the motor cable. Begode did a great job listening to feedback on this one and changing things up. 🙏
Edit: After opening one up, these also have the new boards, 18 mosfets in the new ones over the previous 12.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectricUnicycle/posts/5565859900178594

 

Edited October 31, 2022 by RagingGrandpa

[RolluS]

Hello all,

I've changed bearing and pinned the stator.
I now have some wooble when I freespin the wheel. I'll have to disassemble and reassemble the motor covers, I probably misalign something (any tips welcomed).

I also have some bips: 1 long, 1 short: https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/635c249391253/PXL_20221028_182104334.TS.mp4. Any idea about the meaning please?

[bracky72]

So to sum things up preorder and v1 buyers are being advised to not ride or ride at our own risk while we wait for replacement motors to be shipped from China. Meanwhile you can today purchase a T4 with new motor and higher power controller for immediate shipment.  Yay Begode.

I took the risk and it didn’t pay off. Never buy a v1 wheel. It’s just not worth it. 

[mrelwood]

18 hours ago, RolluS said:

I've changed bearing and pinned the stator.
I now have some wooble when I freespin the wheel. I'll have to disassemble and reassemble the motor covers, I probably misalign something (any tips welcomed).

Do you have the wobble on the rim or on the tire?

 

[RolluS]

16 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Do you have the wobble on the rim or on the tire?

 

On the rim

[mrelwood]

25 minutes ago, RolluS said:

On the rim

You probably didn’t center the rotator while installing.

- Disassemble both motor covers again.

- Cut four long 3/4” wide strips from an A4 sheet of paper. Fold them over to 4x thickness. (Old credit cards might work too.)

- Put the folded strips equally around the motor between the magnets and the stator, so that they no longer touch. If the gap calls for thicker strips, fold them some more. And Vice verse.

- Make sure the rotator looks centered on the flip side, and that the gap is equally wide on all sides. Insert the motor cover on the opposite side of the paper strip ends.

- Before booting the cover down, rotate it into a position where the bolt holes best align on the rotator and the cover. Bolt the cover down tightening with a start pattern.

- Use a flat wooden block in between and hammer down the cover above the bearings. Little by little, on each side.

- On the first side, remove the paper strips. But pull carefully! You don’t want to tear them. I had to bend the rotator a bit to get some of them out.

- Rotate the rim to a position where the gap is the most equal on all sides.

- Insert the other cover. Again, rotate it (without rotating the rim) to a position where the bolt holes align the best.

- Tighten down the cover with a star pattern. Again hammer down with a wooden block above the bearings to make sure they sit flush.

 

 That’s how I have successfully assembled several EUC motors without fail. Please ask if you want me to clarify some sections, English is not my first language.

[RolluS]

Many thanks @mrelwood, I understand your procedure, that sound a right way to achieve centering.

I will try that next week.

For the beeps, I hope I did not damaged a sensor wire or something...

[daniel1234]

21 hours ago, mrelwood said:

You probably didn’t center the rotator while installing.

- Disassemble both motor covers again.

- Cut four long 3/4” wide strips from an A4 sheet of paper. Fold them over to 4x thickness. (Old credit cards might work too.)

- Put the folded strips equally around the motor between the magnets and the stator, so that they no longer touch. If the gap calls for thicker strips, fold them some more. And Vice verse.

- Make sure the rotator looks centered on the flip side, and that the gap is equally wide on all sides. Insert the motor cover on the opposite side of the paper strip ends.

- Before booting the cover down, rotate it into a position where the bolt holes best align on the rotator and the cover. Bolt the cover down tightening with a start pattern.

- Use a flat wooden block in between and hammer down the cover above the bearings. Little by little, on each side.

- On the first side, remove the paper strips. But pull carefully! You don’t want to tear them. I had to bend the rotator a bit to get some of them out.

- Rotate the rim to a position where the gap is the most equal on all sides.

- Insert the other cover. Again, rotate it (without rotating the rim) to a position where the bolt holes align the best.

- Tighten down the cover with a star pattern. Again hammer down with a wooden block above the bearings to make sure they sit flush.

 

 That’s how I have successfully assembled several EUC motors without fail. Please ask if you want me to clarify some sections, English is not my first language.

Sounds good I need to try it next time!

[daniel1234]

On 10/28/2022 at 10:04 PM, RagingGrandpa said:

A new controller design already? Change you mind 5 times Gotway, why not...

 

Early adopters gets fucked up again - people ordering v2 wheels will just get better safer machines. I need to wait for failure or injury. 

Not sure what to think - I didn't even got a replacement motor yet and the other gets better V2 wheels with sexy offroad tyre and good pedals. 

[bracky72]

3 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

Early adopters gets fucked up again - people ordering v2 wheels will just get better safer machines. I need to wait for failure or injury. 

Not sure what to think -

I feel like I’ve been ripped off. Totally fucked by alienrides and begode. I won’t be dealing with either again. 

[supercurio]

4 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

Not sure what to think - I didn't even got a replacement motor yet and the other gets better V2 wheels with sexy offroad tyre and good pedals. 

A perspective for context:

• I have this tire on my 16X and it's just not good on street. It dips a lot in turns and you end up twisting your body in weird ways to compensate. It also has an unstable feeling, the opposite of a tire that would steer straight naturally. It's good off-road tho. Very very nimble, although there's pros and cons depending on the terrain vs a dual sport or hybrid tire.
  Since it dips easily in turns, it's easier to clip pedals. A concern on 16X, will be a lot less on T4.
  I like that it doesn't have any tramlining... it has reverse tramlining even 😄
  It might be not exactly the same tire just a similar pattern on the T4? Might behave about the same tho.
  I like it enough on my 16X because it's meant as an off-road play wheel but I don't think many people will enjoy it for general use.
• I tried these pedals on my friends' MTen4 a couple days ago, and with my usual shoes were slippery to the point they're entirely unusable. The ground so my soles were damp and the soles had no grip whatsoever on the metal. The barely raised areas didn't do anything.
   Worst pedals I've ever tried.

The new QS motor looks promising tho.

Edited October 31, 2022 by supercurio

[bracky72]

For me it’s three strikes. The defective motor, outdated/beta controller and defective screen. That’s to much to accept for such an expensive purchase. 

Edited October 31, 2022 by bracky72

[RolluS]

The fact is that in "preorder" there is the word "pre". I was in a hurry and I consider preorder/first batch, like a Kickstarter (maybe it shall be, new launch via Kickstarter instead of usual retailers). I save few hundreds and I will have 2 years factory warranty (almost no question when we RMA). Also, I'm getting new motor, new kickstand, and new tire, from begode via my Chinese dealer.

I will only miss the new controller at the moment but I need to see the specs of the new mosfets before knowing if it's a miss. Also, I did not even reach 85% of nominal power while riding (even considering peak power according to euc.world). Do I need more MOSFET? Not sure.

Edited October 31, 2022 by RolluS

[bracky72]

We didn’t save any money preordering from my retailer. It’s the same price now.

The fact is AR knew the issue was serious enough to order new motors for all v1 units on October 5th according to their press release. I as a customer wasn’t alerted until October 26th.  I wish I had been notified up front.

[RolluS]

19 minutes ago, bracky72 said:

We didn’t save any money preordering from my retailer. It’s the same price now.

The fact is AR knew the issue was serious enough to order new motors for all v1 units on October 5th according to their press release. I as a customer wasn’t alerted until October 26th.  I wish I had been notified up front.

I fully get your point. This is not fair from AR

[Cerbera]

I can't honestly say I have noticed that pre-order pricing is any different. I thought in this context that Pre-order only meant - 'this is our first stock run of these, and they haven't got here yet.

[Funky]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

I can't honestly say I have noticed that pre-order pricing is any different. I thought in this context that Pre-order only meant - 'this is our first stock run of these, and they haven't got here yet.

Pre-order you are buying (      ...     )

Yup you didn't miss anything. You just bought placeholder number. I would understand if pre-orderers would get a discount, or something extra.. Otherwise you are just buying first batch problems. (I personally don't mind - if people wanna be guinea pigs, go ahead. I won't lose sleep over broken neck, which isn't mine.)

Then again i'm not a obsessive EUC junkie who needs to catch/get/try them all.  Your new euc will be the same as the old one. It will take you where you need to go, same as old one did. -Nothing new. Same as buying multiple cars, bikes.. More or less you will be riding only one EUC at the end of the day.

I bought my 18xl and i don't see a point of buying anything new. Let alone "pre-ordering" some kind Chinese shit in the box. (You get amazing wheel or maybe a stinker. -In most cases all pre-orderers get a stinker. At least from what i have seen.) I personally will only buy new euc when it gets something "new" like real smart BMS. Solid state batteries. Or something game changing. Otherwise all these new wheels doesn't interest my. -Because there isn't anything technologically new.

It's the same as buying new car each year. Just for "fun". It does everything the old one did. -You sit in and drive..

Edited October 31, 2022 by Funky

[mrelwood]

 

3 hours ago, Funky said:

Your new euc will be the same as the old one. It will take you where you need to go, same as old one did. -Nothing new.

Yeah, just like an EUC offers nothing more than a bicycle with bust gears. Both will take you from A to B! 

 

3 hours ago, Funky said:

I personally will only buy new euc when it gets something "new" like real smart BMS. Solid state batteries. Or something game changing.

Like suspension. Man, that would be a real game changer to your 18XL! 
 

Sorry to bust yer balls pal, other than the above I agree with your post.

 Oh, except not losing my sleep over other’s broken necks. You’re cold, man.

[Funky]

22 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

Yeah, just like an EUC offers nothing more than a bicycle with bust gears. Both will take you from A to B! 

I mainly bought EUC - because of train ticket. Regular bicycles need a ticket. Euc/Scooters don't.  Doh not pedaling is kinda nice.

23 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

Like suspension. Man, that would be a real game changer to your 18XL! 

I personally still don't like suspension, simply because one day you will need to work on it. I'm that kind of guy who will take reliability over comfort. Suspension may "break" one day. No suspension - Nothing to "break".

Sherman S suspension looks kinda "good" no springs, etc.. Moving parts like any other wheels have at back. T4/Master/S18/S22 so on.. But still no moving parts at all is better.

23 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

 Oh, except not losing my sleep over other’s broken necks. You’re cold, man.

Nah i'm just given up on life/dreams/goals and don't see point in anything. I'm simply dead inside. And want to be also from outside... 

[techyiam]

12 hours ago, Funky said:

I mainly bought EUC - because of train ticket. Regular bicycles need a ticket. Euc/Scooters don't.

That explains a lot in how you view euc's! Nothing wrong. They are great for this use case.

What you need is one made by Toyota, making it as dependable as a hammer.

Edited November 1, 2022 by techyiam