Begode T4

[Esash]

2 hours ago, -iB- said:

Any opinions on knobby vs street tire? Anyone here got one but want the other / have any complaints about either? Just thinking of which I will ultimately go with since Ill be doing a mix of riding on and offroad anyway.

None of my business but being in Michigan and doing some offroad in addition, I'd go offroad tire, unless there's some Lower Penninsula Michigan I don't know about down near the other international border.

 

[EMA]

14 hours ago, -iB- said:

Any opinions on knobby vs street tire? Anyone here got one but want the other / have any complaints about either? Just thinking of which I will ultimately go with since Ill be doing a mix of riding on and offroad anyway.

value your riding style and where you want the most grip

[daniel1234]

14 hours ago, -iB- said:

Any opinions on knobby vs street tire? Anyone here got one but want the other / have any complaints about either? Just thinking of which I will ultimately go with since Ill be doing a mix of riding on and offroad anyway.

Stock CST street tire feels surprisingly good for me - but the first 200 km was weirdly slippery. I recommend burning it out a little after you get EUC.

 

[RolluS]

Hey guys, here is a blackfriday offer that may interest some (I'm in no way affiliated):

https://hulaj.market/en/108-begode-t4

 

Edited November 25, 2022 by RolluS

[adrianqbs]

On 11/23/2022 at 9:38 PM, Waulnut said:

Mine goes to 100.8v still. Do you have it balance charge beyond the green light? 

Heya,

Yes, I do. I usually leave it for a couple of hours after.

On 11/24/2022 at 7:45 AM, mrelwood said:

Measure your charger. If it only outputs 99V, get a replacement. If it outputs 100.8 (or slightly above), you might have a pretty bad cell balance issue in your packs. A pack in that state won’t last long, so I suggest you investigate the issue soon.

The charger was measured and was fine. We also charged to 100% and measured each battery pack. The back 2 were 50.x v, the front left was 51.x v and the front right was 49.x v. I can't remember the exact measurements.

And I also used to 3A 100.8v charger that came with my Inmotion V12. Results were the same.

We are investigating and in contact and see how this gets resolved. Changed to the new charging board that's supposed to have better balancing. Will have to run through a few more charge cycles and report back.

On 11/24/2022 at 3:45 PM, daniel1234 said:

v1 or v2 ?
Is voltage reported correctly in begode app? I would check it with a multimeter carefully.

Mine stock V1 did not report current/voltage correctly before FW upgrade to EUC world.  FW flash did solve that issue for me.

We measued the voltages using EUC world, Darknessbot and the Begode app. All gave the exact same reading. Wheel firmware is the most up-to-date and EUC world should be as well. But we didnt check the charger and batteries with a multimeter.

Mine is a V1, now with the new charger board. However, my friends who own a V1 and another with a V2 have the same issue. With similar voltages reported from the app. Though not multimeter tested yet.

[adrianqbs]

On 11/25/2022 at 2:21 AM, -iB- said:

Any opinions on knobby vs street tire? Anyone here got one but want the other / have any complaints about either? Just thinking of which I will ultimately go with since Ill be doing a mix of riding on and offroad anyway.

I own a V1 and also got the knobby tyre provided by Begode.

The street tyre is the same as the one that came with the Nikola before and is a well known comodity. It was nimble and pretty alright. Generally well accepted by most from what I read.

The knobby is really nice. Very grippy and makes offroading so much more satisfying. No regrets at all and I won't be going back to the street.

Not quite sure what make or model it is, as there aren't any Google-able identifying marks on the tyre.

Installing it was quite difficult because of the thick and havy sidewalls. Had to use some oil and tyre tools to get it in. My dealer said it was more difficult that other tyre swaps he's done.

 

Overall, no complaints about either but personally, it's the offroad one for me any day.

[EUCzero]

I have made a very simple Bottom out fix for the Begode Master. It is a volume reducer making the shock more progressive.
The T4 use the same shock as the Master, but it uses more of the shocks travel, therefor it does not bottom out that easily. 
I want to make a volume reducer for the T4 as well for the riders who still want a more progressive suspension. But then I need someone to measure how far the shock is compressed when fully bottomed out.

I do not sell these. I put the files for anyone to 3D-print for free on thingiverse.com
So if anyone would like this, just give it 15minutes and to some quick measurements for me.

You have to take out the air from the suspension and then press down the seat for the sliders to hit bottom for this measurement. Then measure bolt to bolt in the shock. Or any two easy to identify points when it is fully compressed mounted on the T4. (This will be of a different value than on the Master that I own myself)

Thank you in advance.

Edited November 27, 2022 by EUCzero

[EUCzero]

Hehe. I could not help it. I just had to quickly design and print this re-bound TPU knob for the shock. Print it and press it on top of the original knob. You get infinit better grip  Hehe.

Also on thingiverse.com any second.  I am EUCzero there to. Easy to find.

 

( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5660989 )

Edited November 27, 2022 by EUCzero
Add photo

[bracky72]

My T4 is evolving. It’s a cool wheel despite the v1 issues. 

 

[RolluS]

1 hour ago, bracky72 said:

My T4 is evolving. It’s a cool wheel despite the v1 issues. 

This is a sleek looking wheel

[RolluS]

8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

So if anyone would like this, just give it 15minutes and to some quick measurements for me.

You have to take out the air from the suspension and then press down the seat for the sliders to hit bottom for this measurement. Then measure bolt to bolt in the shock. Or any two easy to identify points when it is fully compressed mounted on the T4. (This will be of a different value than on the Master that I own myself)

Thank you in advance.

I'll try later that week, hopefully someone will be able to do that sooner

[RolluS]

Here is the charging curve of the T4 read from wall socket (includes charger efficiency then). Energy counter is probably false as 5hours >400W shall be more than 0.9kWh.

 

Battery voltage was 72V (a conservative 3.0V per element) when tiltback kicked me off the wheel, I stopped but cannot relaunch, too much tiltback.

About 5h to 100.8V

After charging, I was really disappointed by the pack BMS. I've shunted battery multiplexing board mosfets which prevented me to charge. I bet on each BMS to balance and clip each battery individually.

I've finished the about 2 hours balancing (from green led on charger until 2W idle power) with the red led next to the charge port cap.

There is one led like that next to each MR60 plug, connected to each BMS (center pin) which shows BMS error. 

Here it was over voltage protection (OVP) as the "faulty" pack was 50.95Vdc, that's 4.24 fucking Vdc per element. We know there is an error, but don't know what it is.

After freespining the wheel, LED shut off.

[RolluS]

Forgot to mention... Freespin speed with QS motor (V2) on 12 mosfets board (V1) is 70km/h, instead of 79km/h with ZX motor (V1).

QS motor has an inferior KV?

[Waulnut]

4 hours ago, RolluS said:

Forgot to mention... Freespin speed with QS motor (V2) on 12 mosfets board (V1) is 70km/h, instead of 79km/h with ZX motor (V1).

QS motor has an inferior KV?

I thought AR said QS has more torque so less speed. 

[Mango]

Replaced the bearings on my T4 with FAG 6012 3rs c3 and packed them with waterproof grease. Did a test ride, sooooo smooth and quiet.

Also did a diy stator mod for my ZX motor using M4-12 pan head screws. The pan head has clearance over the motor cover so I didn't have to buy grub screws. Good peace of mind as my reseller is unsure when they are replacing with QS motors under warranty.

 

edit: I should mention with only 160 kms on the odometer, and just had ridden an hour on wet pavement (no rain), the motor bearings became seized the next day. LOL Begode quality.

Edited November 28, 2022 by Mango

[Ben Kim]

9 hours ago, RolluS said:

Forgot to mention... Freespin speed with QS motor (V2) on 12 mosfets board (V1) is 70km/h, instead of 79km/h with ZX motor (V1).

QS motor has an inferior KV?

What about QS motor with the 18 fet board?  Still 78 kph? 

[RolluS]

7 hours ago, Waulnut said:

I thought AR said QS has more torque so less speed. 

Yes, it's not proven BTW. 

I.e on this video V1 is felt faster and stronger than V2. But, pedal mode behavior has been changed in the firmware, so.. who knows? ( @daniel1234 did you had a chance to test? )

[RolluS]

5 hours ago, Mango said:

edit: I should mention with only 160 kms on the odometer, and just had ridden an hour on wet pavement (no rain), the motor bearings became seized the next day. LOL Begode quality.

Yes, that was almost the same lifespan as mine... BeGlaD if quality

[daniel1234]

3 hours ago, RolluS said:

Yes, it's not proven BTW. 

I.e on this video V1 is felt faster and stronger than V2. But, pedal mode behavior has been changed in the firmware, so.. who knows? ( @daniel1234 did you had a chance to test? )

1, Yes, QS motor have few percent less (5-10 max) KV rating - I am happy about that. I would hove to have even more HT motor at mine T4 since I don't ride ever above 50.

2, Pedal floaties/pulsing is not solved completely for me with custom firmware - it just happen at higher speed (46 km/h - 80 procent ish PWM). But my v1 QS T4 chimera rides better with custom FW ! - stable with 75 PWM tiltback. Hard mode is more pleasant to ride it seemingly accelerate better without spiking PWM load.
I am planning to replace all mosfets on v1 board after v2 board arrives - I think I have bad one FET on some phase (resistance of one phase is different) - or there is something wrong with power circuitry.  I am still pissed on begode that they charged me $$ for new board.

I am mad they don't believe me that there is something wrong - I even told reseller to look up this forum that I am not s*iting him. He didn't want to invest his time into reading lol ... It is easier to blame riders.

3, QS motor rides good and have a little more pleasant sound up hill. But don't expect big difference - same motor little better material. 

 

I have 700 km on wheel and I spend more time fixing something than ride wheel itself. I am sure there will be another issues.
I payed more for t4 by now than for master. 

My advice to anybody is stay out of new Begode wheels without clear reseller warranty!  
Save yourself disappointment.

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

My advice to anybody is stay out of new Begode wheels without clear reseller warranty!  
Save yourself disappointment.

Didn't Begode announced earlier that they have extended the warranty for the T4 and the Master (plus other specific wheels) for 2 years?

[RagingGrandpa]

18 hours ago, RolluS said:

I've shunted battery multiplexing board mosfets which prevented me to charge. I bet on each BMS to balance and clip each battery individually.

Be careful... in new designs like T4, I think the charging shutoff is in the "mux" board, and the packs can only signal to it.
(Which is supported by your result below.)

18 hours ago, RolluS said:

Here it was over voltage protection (OVP) as the "faulty" pack was 50.95Vdc, that's 4.24Vdc per element.

Imbalance.

But this was your opportunity to let the balancing function work: remove the charger and let the EUC rest (powered off) until voltage falls below about 4.18V/cell. The BMS will bleed down the high ones in just an hour or two. Repeat as necessary (without bypassing the mux!).

[RagingGrandpa]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

extended the warranty for the T4 and the Master (plus other specific wheels) for 2 years?

Only "V1" T4's and Masters...

 

On 10/4/2022 at 10:09 AM, buffs said:

T4 and V1 Master owners get improved warranty:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectricUnicycle/permalink/5495293060568612/

Quote

DEAR BROTHERS 
Great thanks for T4 and Master v1 riders.
For provideing better service.
1-for first T4 batch riders provide kickstand and off road tire for free if need pls contact local seller,not include shippimg fee
2-for the T4 first batch provide 2 years after sales service for seller.
3-for Master first batch provide 2 years after sales service for seller

To all V1 Master a V1 T4 owners:
We want to thank you for being valued customers. While we test our models for months before shipping, some issues are not identified until products reach the mass market.
We are happy to announce that all V1 Master and t4 owners will be receiving a complementary 2 year full warranty via your distributor. This covers the full electrical system.
Batteries
Motor
Main control board

[adrianqbs]

3 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

1, Yes, QS motor have few percent less (5-10 max) KV rating - I am happy about that. I would hove to have even more HT motor at mine T4 since I don't ride ever above 50.

2, Pedal floaties/pulsing is not solved completely for me with custom firmware - it just happen at higher speed (46 km/h - 80 procent ish PWM). But my v1 QS T4 chimera rides better with custom FW ! - stable with 75 PWM tiltback. Hard mode is more pleasant to ride it seemingly accelerate better without spiking PWM load.
I am planning to replace all mosfets on v1 board after v2 board arrives - I think I have bad one FET on some phase (resistance of one phase is different) - or there is something wrong with power circuitry.  I am still pissed on begode that they charged me $$ for new board.

I am mad they don't believe me that there is something wrong - I even told reseller to look up this forum that I am not s*iting him. He didn't want to invest his time into reading lol ... It is easier to blame riders.

3, QS motor rides good and have a little more pleasant sound up hill. But don't expect big difference - same motor little better material. 

 

I have 700 km on wheel and I spend more time fixing something than ride wheel itself. I am sure there will be another issues.
I payed more for t4 by now than for master. 

My advice to anybody is stay out of new Begode wheels without clear reseller warranty!  
Save yourself disappointment.

What has your experience been regarding range though? 

Are you experiencing the same range (about 70-80km of fun riding) on the V1 motor as on the V2 motor? 

[Ben Kim]

4 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

1, Yes, QS motor have few percent less (5-10 max) KV rating - I am happy about that. I would hove to have even more HT motor at mine T4 since I don't ride ever above 50.

2, Pedal floaties/pulsing is not solved completely for me with custom firmware - it just happen at higher speed (46 km/h - 80 procent ish PWM). But my v1 QS T4 chimera rides better with custom FW ! - stable with 75 PWM tiltback. Hard mode is more pleasant to ride it seemingly accelerate better without spiking PWM load.
I am planning to replace all mosfets on v1 board after v2 board arrives - I think I have bad one FET on some phase (resistance of one phase is different) - or there is something wrong with power circuitry.  I am still pissed on begode that they charged me $$ for new board.

I am mad they don't believe me that there is something wrong - I even told reseller to look up this forum that I am not s*iting him. He didn't want to invest his time into reading lol ... It is easier to blame riders.

3, QS motor rides good and have a little more pleasant sound up hill. But don't expect big difference - same motor little better material. 

 

I have 700 km on wheel and I spend more time fixing something than ride wheel itself. I am sure there will be another issues.
I payed more for t4 by now than for master. 

My advice to anybody is stay out of new Begode wheels without clear reseller warranty!  
Save yourself disappointment.

So basically the QS motor needs the v2 board with 18 mosfets to operate at the specced top speed. 46kph for 80% PWM is MCM5 levels of performance which is unacceptable.  
 

let us know what you find once you install the v2 board. 

[RolluS]

6 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Be careful... in new designs like T4, I think the charging shutoff is in the "mux" board, and the packs can only signal to it.
(Which is supported by your result below.)

Imbalance.

But this was your opportunity to let the balancing function work: remove the charger and let the EUC rest (powered off) until voltage falls below about 4.18V/cell. The BMS will bleed down the high ones in just an hour or two. Repeat as necessary (without bypassing the mux!).

The mux is faulty, I couldn't charge but I don't know the reasons.

Here is the diagnostic I've mailed to my seller (I'll get a new battery mux board which improve balancing:

Quote

In addition to my charging problem, I made some other measurements (I'm an experienced hobbyist ):
- Charger: pin 1-5: 100Vdc. I can measure the same on pin 1,2 - 4,5 on charging ports
- Battery 1 to 4 (unplugged): Black-Red: 43Vdc. Black-White: 0Vdc ;White-Red: 24Vdc
- Battery board charger input (C- C+): 100Vdc.
- Battery board output to Mainboard: Black-Red: 86Vdc; Black-White: 0Vdc; White-Red: 86Vdc.
- On battery board testpoints: 35Vdc: from -6 to -0.5Vdc, like a discharging capacitor; 3V3: 0V; 12V (Mainboard side): 0V ; 12V (rear side): -12Vdc (see the minus here..)

On V1 1612103 firmware, I have 1 long beep + 1 short in loop.
On V1 1612104 firmware, I have no beep.