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55 minutes ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried to mount a tubeless tyre to the rim on the QS or ZX T4 motor?

I’m sure that tubeless outer tires fit the rim just fine, as long as they are used with a tube. Converting the rim to tubeless operation is a whole another matter, which shouldn’t be attempted on any EUC.

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2 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

How does your T4 rides under sub-zero temperatures guys? I have a dilemma If I should switch tire on T4 for knobby one.

Kind of scared I will kill myself with a random low temp cut-out. 

My runs fine, however, I'm asking myself if I should switch to knobby tire also. I think it shall be better in snow, but don't know if it is on icy basements.

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20 hours ago, RolluS said:

My runs fine, however, I'm asking myself if I should switch to knobby tire also. I think it shall be better in snow, but don't know if it is on icy basements.

Cool - so I will do full rework and make even some internal fender. Is there some speed or power limitation under some temperatures?

What about bearing covers guys? Any tips on where to get some or is there some nice .stl model to print? 

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23 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I’m sure that tubeless outer tires fit the rim just fine, as long as they are used with a tube. Converting the rim to tubeless operation is a whole another matter, which shouldn’t be attempted on any EUC.

Can you please expand on why this shouldn't be attempted? Where I work has converted many tubed scooters to tubeless with no issues, provided the rim is not split. Most 16X and T4 rims have an 8.5mm valve stem hole which there exist tubeless valves for and I've seen several other tubeless conversions on larger wheels (monster pro for example) simply using a decent tubeless sealant.

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25 minutes ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

Can you please expand on why this shouldn't be attempted? Where I work has converted many tubed scooters to tubeless with no issues, provided the rim is not split. Most 16X and T4 rims have an 8.5mm valve stem hole which there exist tubeless valves for and I've seen several other tubeless conversions on larger wheels (monster pro for example) simply using a decent tubeless sealant.

- Rims for tubeless tires have different edge shape (for example my onewheel) which help keep tire in. Without it, you are risking that the tire will slip on jumps -> you would damage the rim in spot.
- Rims for tubeless tires have a surface treatment to seal properly, majority of chinaluminum is pourous. 

 

Just don't do it !

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2 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

Cool - so I will do full rework and make even some internal fender. Is there some speed or power limitation under some temperatures?

What about bearing covers guys? Any tips on where to get some or is there some nice .stl model to print? 

Same speed and power limitation as with my car or bicycle because of ice :)

I use oil seals. There is some drag, it's whining sometime, but bearing are safe

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3 hours ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

Can you please expand on why this shouldn't be attempted?

Like @daniel1234 already replied, the rim profile doesn’t seal or support a tubeless tire at all. And it doesn’t even require jumping to fail. Usually the inside ridge holds the tire bead vertically in place, but on EUCs it is too low for that. And in order to make the tire run straight, one has to massage the tire around by hand at very low pressures at which the tire may not seal enough. Granted, narrow tubeless valves would solve one of the issues, though it might not fit a rim that thick. I just didn’t find any when I made my MSX tubeless.

 Since you can’t safely run a tubeless tire with a lower pressure due to the above fitting issues, there really isn’t anything to gain even if one would succeed with the conversion. Just a lot of time wasted.

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1 hour ago, pHghost said:

Anyone using the stock bumpers?

I cut mine in half, to see if they work better that way.

i removed mine, and it's much better without them.

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9 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

What about bearing covers guys? Any tips on where to get some or is there some nice .stl model to print? 

I'm looking for a bearing cover .stl model as well. Saw this video the other week, I've asked whether they are sharing or selling the .stl file under their comments but haven't got any response yet. Perhaps he's on this forum?

Here's the video:

 

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1 hour ago, Max.Chavalwan said:

I'm looking for a bearing cover .stl model as well. Saw this video the other week, I've asked whether they are sharing or selling the .stl file under their comments but haven't got any response yet. Perhaps he's on this forum?

Here's the video:

Hope so ! Definitely a good idea for T4, Master and presumably Master Pro.

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I'm using an oil seal:
https://www.123roulement.com/joints-OAS-60X88X10-NBR

image.png.3d3839522b609203742a2b4183296eed.png.a682fd06571fc6d6210529e430f3d45a.png

image.png.a903a1c4c416f15f26924e7a689b997f.png.9b819eccfbc54ff7d08ebbbb1a3b24d6.png

Mounted with the spring on the outside. A 60x88x8 (or even thinner) would fit better and cause less drag on the bearing. As said above, it's whinning like an old car belt under some circumstances (temperature/humidity), but I don't care plus adding some grease (without dismantling anything) stop that.

Edited by RolluS
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I was caught by a light rain some days before with my 1st batch T4. Since than I have bearing issue. Is there any video how can I replace the bearings in a safe way? I can maintenance my EUC without any issue, I have experience both with the electricity and the machine itself, just I don't have knowledge about bearings.

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1 hour ago, MontyX99 said:

I was caught by a light rain some days before with my 1st batch T4. Since than I have bearing issue.

Can you be more specific ? What sort of noises is it making ? I also ran into bearing issues on my Master after some rain riding (was getting a knocking sound), but I was able to re-grease the bearings with LiquiMoly Marine grease, and it has been fine in the month I've been riding it since. That operation is detailed in this thread, for the Master of course, but I imagine they are similar. I know of at least 4 people for whom adding grease has solved it, but there is also cautionary advice against adding too much grease, and also people that recommend replacing the bearing outright is a better option, which is also comprehensively discussed there.

 

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2 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Can you be more specific ? What sort of noises is it making ? I also ran into bearing issues on my Master after some rain riding (was getting a knocking sound), but I was able to re-grease the bearings with LiquiMoly Marine grease, and it has been fine in the month I've been riding it since. That operation is detailed in this thread, for the Master of course, but I imagine they are similar. I know of at least 4 people for whom adding grease has solved it, but there is also cautionary advice against adding too much grease, and also people that recommend replacing the bearing outright is a better option, which is also comprehensively discussed there.

 

It became very loud during riding. You can find what sounds it makes in free spin:

 

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12 hours ago, Max.Chavalwan said:

Так же ищу крышку подшипника .stl модели. Видел это видео на прошлой неделе, я спросил, делятся ли они файлом .stl или продают его под своими комментариями, но пока не получил никакого ответа. Может он есть на этом форуме?

Вот видео:

 

260х80х8

photo_2022-11-27_20-50-45 (2).jpg

photo_2022-11-27_20-50-45.jpg

2-Body.stl

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14 hours ago, RolluS said:

I'm using an oil seal:
https://www.123roulement.com/joints-OAS-60X88X10-NBR

image.png.3d3839522b609203742a2b4183296eed.png.a682fd06571fc6d6210529e430f3d45a.png

image.png.a903a1c4c416f15f26924e7a689b997f.png.9b819eccfbc54ff7d08ebbbb1a3b24d6.png

Mounted with the spring on the outside. A 60x88x8 (or even thinner) would fit better and cause less drag on the bearing. As said above, it's whinning like an old car belt under some circumstances (temperature/humidity), but I don't care plus adding some grease (without dismantling anything) stop that.

I actually got the 60x88x8 that you suggested. Fits well but it does squeek annoying. 

Gonna try to spray WD40 PTFE on it or maybe try shaving off like 0.5mm from the edges. 

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8 hours ago, MontyX99 said:

I was caught by a light rain some days before with my 1st batch T4. Since than I have bearing issue. Is there any video how can I replace the bearings in a safe way? I can maintenance my EUC without any issue, I have experience both with the electricity and the machine itself, just I don't have knowledge about bearings.

It's really quite easy to replace. Just plug and play. 

You'll be needing 6012 2RS C3

6012 = size

RS = rubber seal / Z = steel seal. 2RS = both sides rubber sealed. 

C3 = standard offset

 

Screenshot_2022-12-15-16-41-34-597_com.shopee.my.jpg

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37 minutes ago, adrianqbs said:

I actually got the 60x88x8 that you suggested. Fits well but it does squeek annoying. 

Gonna try to spray WD40 PTFE on it or maybe try shaving off like 0.5mm from the edges. 

I pour grease from time to time. Maybe removing 0.xmm in the inner diameter would work also. Or just removing the spring?

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