KingSong KS-16A First Impressions

[esaj]

29 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Great review, I have always had good feelings toward Firewheel.  I have seen V73's videos training in the ice and respect the power of them, also @dmethvin has good reviews

Thanks, although I wouldn't really call it a "review", though   More like "first observations based on single ride". If I have the time tomorrow (before the owner comes to pick up his wheel), I'll do some more (short) laps to test some things, like slow speed behavior, I'm not sure, but I think I noticed that the turning behaves differently than Firewheel on slow speeds (ie. the forwards-tilting thing on slow speeds that many wheels do), but couldn't really pinpoint how it was different on those few laps I did before heading out for the longer trip. Also, while I'm fairly sure the ride-feel (especially at higher speeds) is more or less "spot-on" vs. Firewheel, there might be some psychological effects (like just the joy of getting to rider after such a long pause, and partially forgotting over the winter how it really was to ride the Firewheel )

 

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I wish someone would send you a NinebotOne E+ to test ride.

Yeah, that'd be nice. I'd really love to try one once, but not enough to buy one (at least at the local prices, but if that $449 -sale was here, I'd get one for sure, even if I'd end up selling it onwards with some loss )

 

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Daytime driving lights drive a lot of people over here to distraction. Just like the 85 mph speedometer we had for like 10 years.

It's probably what you've used to. To me, cars without headlights during the daytime look weird, and people here are used to cars having headlights on whenever they're moving. Probably the opposite there.

 

18 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Forgot to mention that video where you were going real fast down some parkway on the firewheel.  Good thing you were wearing the wrist guards in case of falling off.  But seriously, arkansas has stable rock ground. I am not sure I want to faceplant there.

Yeah, I ride with full gear all the time (elbow pads, knee pads, wristguards, motorcycle helmet). Hopefully I'll never really need it, but if something happens, I have at least somewhat better chance of not getting seriously hurt or killed   You can never know for sure when something in the wheel electronics or mechanics just "gives up", or something totally unexpected happens in the traffic...

[edwin_rm]

@esaj The light is by default set to "auto", however with a simple tap in the app (KS 3.0-beta) there is a setting to have it stay always off or always on. No need to modify the wheel! Also, the KS16's tire is rated for 4.6 bar. You can definitely inflate it hard. 

[ThomasK]

14 hours ago, esaj said:

..... Also, the light isn't as bright as on the Firewheel, it doesn't illuminate nearly as well (and I think that even the Firewheels' headlight is slightly inadequate ),

Interesting to read your 'first observations', especially on breaking in comparison to the Firewheel. As I said in another post breaking on the KS16 is much 'softer' than on the Firewheel - at least that is what I feel.

Did yesterday my first night ride on the KS (have it only for 6 weeks now). And the light on my KS is really really bright, much more than on my Firewheel - at least 3 if not 5 times brighter (not sure how to measure it). My wife picked me and the KS up yesterday and she spotted the light of the KS when I was still about 600/700 meter away from her. In a really dark environment she will probably have spotted the Firewheel as well, but only as a very small light comparable to a very weak or far away taskulamppu / torch.

Reading a lot of other members postings about different kinds of wheels and their experiences/findings with them I come more and more to the conclusion that you can buy 2 identical wheels at the same shop and you will face a different behavior of the two wheels with approx. 25% of their features . It is very conssequent: If you read the so-called 'manuals' which are coming with the EUCs you are wondering sometimes what kind of 'speedy toaster' you might have bought here.

[Blunzn]

17 hours ago, esaj said:

I think my next wheel might be a KS16

Does this mean the Wheelemetrics may get an KS16 update ?  

[esaj]

3 hours ago, ThomasK said:

Interesting to read your 'first observations', especially on breaking in comparison to the Firewheel. As I said in another post breaking on the KS16 is much 'softer' than on the Firewheel - at least that is what I feel.

Well, I think it does "give in" a bit on stronger braking, but hard to say for sure, as I didn't really test it very hard (like said, it was a friends wheel, and not knowing if KS16 mainboard can burn easily during strong braking, I didn't really want to take the chance)   Also worth noting that I'm probably much lighter than most riders (about 57kg with clothes on, maybe around 60kg in full gear with helmet & other protection), so it might be that the pedals tilt more during braking / accelerating with heavier riders.

3 hours ago, ThomasK said:

Did yesterday my first night ride on the KS (have it only for 6 weeks now). And the light on my KS is really really bright, much more than on my Firewheel - at least 3 if not 5 times brighter (not sure how to measure it). My wife picked me and the KS up yesterday and she spotted the light of the KS when I was still about 600/700 meter away from her. In a really dark environment she will probably have spotted the Firewheel as well, but only as a very small light comparable to a very weak or far away taskulamppu / torch.

Well, that was the first feel I got from it, but then again, human eye adjusts to the surrounding ambient lighting conditions, so it might be that I remember the Firewheel light as being more bright / showing better, because the last time I've ridden it has been much darker (late summer/early autumn) vs. now. Even though it was cloudy, it doesn't get that dark during nights, and around summer solstice, it doesn't get dark at all (although I'm south enough from Vee that here the sun actually sets for a while even during the solstice ). Anyway, I'll probably put one 20W led-light I have for actual dark-time riding anyway, unless I'd end up buying a wheel that has VERY bright light on its own to begin with.

 

3 hours ago, ThomasK said:

Reading a lot of other members postings about different kinds of wheels and their experiences/findings with them I come more and more to the conclusion that you can buy 2 identical wheels at the same shop and you will face a different behavior of the two wheels with approx. 25% of their features . It is very conssequent: If you read the so-called 'manuals' which are coming with the EUCs you are wondering sometimes what kind of 'speedy toaster' you might have bought here.

Regarding Firewheel alone, I know that there are at least three or four different (hardware) versions of the mainboard, and who knows how many changes in the firmware between batches even with the same hardware. There's the first version that didn't yet have separate sport- and comfortable-modes, the next version that had the modes, but had issues with the step-down converter circuitry burning, the fixed version of that with different step-down, and maybe one more (the newest board I have doesn't anymore have the separate BMS-line and has some extra resistors soldered top of some existing ones...)

 

1 hour ago, Blunzn said:

Does this mean the Wheelemetrics may get an KS16 update ?  

Maybe, depends whether I get one first, and then it's going to take a while before I can figure out the protocol and learn how to use BT LE

[Jason McNeil]

Sorry I've been away from the boards the past couple days trying to catch-up with some other project stuff...  

The latest news on firmware is that KS are testing the ***t out of a version for general mass release for the 31st. They say that going forward they will try to limit the update frequency to avoid the risk of bricking Wheels. 

21 hours ago, esaj said:

Was a bit anxious at start, it's been over 6 months since I've last ridden any wheel,

Too funny, was there ever such an expert 'armchair' Wheeler?  

 

[esaj]

7 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said:

Too funny, was there ever such an expert 'armchair' Wheeler?  

"If you can't do, teach"? 

[esaj]

22 hours ago, esaj said:

And at that point I was also clearly riding faster than before on that trip, as that was the first time I noticed that the wheel beeped when the wind died down (I believe the settings are something like 0-0-30-30, but will have to check this), but didn't notice any tilt-back at any point. Does the beeping start before the tiltback, even if the warning & tilt-back are set for same speed? Didn't have anything to measure my speeds with, but if I'd have to take a guess, I'd say that I was riding between 20-25km/h most of the trip.

The owner of the wheel just informed me that the settings were 0-0-29-30, so I must have been riding right at the "edge" of the tilt-back, but not actually hit it (hearing the beeps, I immediately dropped my speed so they stopped).

Aand, once again, I'm the one taking this thread away from the original topic, so I better start moving these posts to the KS16 experiences -thread  

[Gunthor]

@esaj, I really enjoyed reading your KS16 impressions. Yes, the pedals are wider and after I have put extra pads on the Kingsong logo my ankles do not touch the screw covers any longer - I like that. However - there is one disadvantage I'll let you know at the end of my post. 

All in all I'd like to confirm, that my feet do not fatigue as fast as on the 9b1 I was used to. I can drive 1 1/2 hours in one go until I start feeling a little numbness. And this is where the retractable handle comes in wonderfully, because then I walk 10 paces pushing the KS16 before jumping on again for another hour (collected 1.200 Km so far).

@esaj, I like your procedure before igniting the KS16 engine:

23 hours ago, esaj said:

Checking the wind data from the meteorological institute, the wind was between 4-6m/s and 8-11m/s in gusts throughout my ride.

When taking flight lessons I always had to get the weather data from the nearest meteorological institute before lift off. However: I do have a pronounced red-green deficiency - so I stopped the lessons (this was years ago). So far I only checked for rain but will from now on check for wind velocity as well. And to be honest: Facing your gusts on an open on a one-wheeler can be dangerous. I'm glad you didn't duplicate Addwins surface encounter. Ever thought abot this one: Your old friend who gave you his KS16 maybe wanted to be sure that it will not surprise him with any overheat-stalls but you. 

But then you are living on higher latitude with lower temperatures - so this should be more difficult to accomplish than in France. BTW: You wouldn't happen to have a small aircraft in your garage that you fly around with in your one-wheeler-off-season? This would explain to me your thorough preparations before starting your journey. 

@Jeffrey Scott Will, thank you for the long rant. I hope you'll post a link to the entire article here once it is ready. 

The setting of my 9b1 was between 0-2 (hard mode) and the KS16 I had in hard mode as well (so far). I always thought "I dislike procrastination!" so I always considered soft mode as "silly" mode. But this morning I decided to switch to the soft mode for the next ~300 Km! I feel that for soft mode you need to not only change the setting - you need to change your entire driving style as well: You have to anticipate that your turns and slaloms are lagging. You have to courageously dare to lean forward and backward more intensive. You have to trust your wheel more to catch up with you. Whereas hard mode allows a somewhat angular driving style soft mode can be enjoyed most when you picture your riding trail like water in an elegantly running brook. There is no haste - because you are in the flow. I like to compare hard mode with the flying style of a hawk (more aggressive) and soft mode with the flying style of an eagle (more exclusive). 

Concerning the range, last week I traveled 59 Km in one go (93% down to 18%, body weight: 74 Kg + Clothes + protection pads + Rucksack) with approximately 350m altitude changes and up to 17% inclines. So in case your thinking...

23 hours ago, esaj said:

[...] my next wheel might be a KS16

...goes on to make dreams become reality I think (for you!) it is an excellent idea to buy the wheel without a battery and to fit one in that suits your needs. Personally I think that 840wH is alright for heavy riders in a hilly terrain wanting to do long rides. I doubt you'll need that much capacity. 

Concerning the hill climbing ability I have to admit that for the first two weeks I didn't dare pushing it any harder. Now I regularly zig-zag the 17% incline with I'd say a comfortably jogging speed. So long the KS16 did not stall on its way up the hill and it is exhilarating to climb faster where my 9b1 used to stall without offering any warning signals and offering face plants instead. 

Oh yes, I changed the light setting too because of this annoying on and off and on and off oscillating and hypnotizing pattern. Within one of the following firmware updates KS should implement a time period (e.g. 4 minutes) for which the light mode must not change (once on or off).

@All KS16 owners: After opening and reassembling the KS16 it is necessary to use new strips of double-sided adhesive tape in order to get the screw covers firmly and permanently in place! Today I lost one of them and couldn't find it on my way back. 

@esaj, Thank you: 
1 minute ago, esaj said:
better start moving these posts to the KS16 experiences -thread  

this destined my post to go glide into nowhere (fortunately I saved the text - but not the formatting). 

 

[esaj]

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

@esaj, I really enjoyed reading your KS16 impressions. Yes, the pedals are wider and after I have put extra pads on the Kingsong logo my ankles do not touch the screw covers any longer - I like that. However - there is one disadvantage I'll let you know at the end of my post. 

Which is..? Or did I miss it?

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

I do have a pronounced red-green deficiency - so I stopped the lessons (this was years ago).

You too?   Mine's the sort where especially darker shades and bad lighting can make it next to impossible for me to distinguish colors like red-green-brown from each other  Never learned to read the resistor color rings because of that, so I just use a multimeter

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

So far I only checked for rain but will from now on check for wind velocity as well. And to be honest: Facing your gusts on an open on a one-wheeler can be dangerous. I'm glad you didn't duplicate Addwins surface encounter.

Well, while the winds were fast, they weren't as bad as the worst ones I've encountered last summer.  That's also when I made the "minimal range" measuring mentioned in my signature:

[10-11m/s winds, +9C: 18.25km] 

It was a storm and the gusts were even faster (don't remember the exact number anymore, something like above 20m/s at highest?), and at some parts of the trip the wheel almost couldn't move me forwards in flat road

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

Ever thought abot this one: Your old friend who gave you his KS16 maybe wanted to be sure that it will not surprise him with any overheat-stalls but you. 

Haha, well, maybe not though  

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

But then you are living on higher latitude with lower temperatures - so this should be more difficult to accomplish than in France. BTW: You wouldn't happen to have a small aircraft in your garage that you fly around with in your one-wheeler-off-season? This would explain to me your thorough preparations before starting your journey. 

No aircraft for me, I get dizzy at high places

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

Concerning the range, last week I traveled 59 Km in one go (93% down to 18%, body weight: 74 Kg + Clothes + protection pads + Rucksack) with approximately 350m altitude changes and up to 17% inclines. So in case your thinking...

...goes on to make dreams become reality I think (for you!) it is an excellent idea to buy the wheel without a battery and to fit one in that suits your needs. Personally I think that 840wH is alright for heavy riders in a hilly terrain wanting to do long rides. I doubt you'll need that much capacity. 

Another reason is that I already have the 768Wh custom packs, that cost a pretty penny and I don't want them to go to "waste". The 840Wh packs are actually using the "big brother" (LG MJ1 3500mAh) -version of the LG cells my packs have (LG MH1 3200mAh). So if I hadn't already have those, I'd probably go with Jason's 840Wh-packs.

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

Concerning the hill climbing ability I have to admit that for the first two weeks I didn't dare pushing it any harder. Now I regularly zig-zag the 17% incline with I'd say a comfortably jogging speed. So long the KS16 did not stall on its way up the hill and it is exhilarating to climb faster where my 9b1 used to stall without offering any warning signals and offering face plants instead. 

Based on how it felt during the climbs I did (long but not that fast), I don't think it's going to be problem power-wise, just worried if I might overload the mainboard and cause the mosfets to burn or something. My friend just got the wheel this Monday, so I really tried to be more delicate with it (and succeeded; the shell or pedals never touched the ground or other obstacles). Had it been my own, my testing might have been a "bit" more aggressive

 

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

Oh yes, I changed the light setting too because of this annoying on and off and on and off oscillating and hypnotizing pattern. Within one of the following firmware updates KS should implement a time period (e.g. 4 minutes) for which the light mode must not change (once on or off).

Didn't know it can be changed from the settings until someone above pointed it out, so my complains about the light are a bit unnecessary, but some sort of Schmitt-trigger there could be useful. I didn't have the app installed, and since I only had the wheel for about 20 hours (during which time I also had to work, eat, sleep etc), I figured I'll just ride with whatever settings were on the wheel. Maybe if it was on soft-mode, I would have got the app to change it

7 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

@esaj, Thank you: 
1 minute ago, esaj said:
better start moving these posts to the KS16 experiences -thread  

this destined my post to go glide into nowhere (fortunately I saved the text - but not the formatting). 

Oh, sorry about that. Didn't know it can mess up other people's unposted messages when I move some other posts.

[Addwyn]

17 minutes ago, Gunthor said:

@All KS16 owners: After opening and reassembling the KS16 it is necessary to use new strips of double-sided adhesive tape in order to get the screw covers firmly and permanently in place! Today I lost one of them and couldn't find it on my way back. 

 

 

Yes. I lost one of the screw covers too. I asked to Gyroroue-shop.fr to sell one to me... So they added this part to their online shop. This cover comes with the genuine double-sided adhesive:

http://gyroroue-shop.fr/gyroroue/pad-pedale-ks-16

I don't like double-sided adhesive for parts that may need to be removed sometimes, so I decided to screw the covers instead of glueing them. It is not ugly :

 

[steve454]

@Gunthor you have made some very good observations about riding settings, like angular and flowing and trusting the wheel.  You have given me the idea to change my riding settings to experience new riding techniques.  It will be learning new skills.  Of course slow speeds to start with and full attention on the wheel.

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

Regarding pedal sizes, I wonder since that rubber foot pedal material is removable and screwed on whether they would be able to sell a "Big Foot" aluminum overlay that inserts into the existing pedal after the rubber pad is removed to which grip tape could be then be applied.  It might raise the pedal height by a few millimetres (4-5m?), but at least then they wouldn't have to cast and stock different sized pedals to accommodate larger foot sizes.  Or maybe design a split pedal on a centre slide with set screw so people can adjust the length to whatever they want (think dining room table that slides open to allow a leaf insert).  A small gap in the middle likely wouldn't be a problem considering the huge gap on my generic EUC.  The only drawback might be strength and flexure of a sliding design as some people jump and hop and smash the pedals into the ground.

[esaj]

I think I saw somewhere a picture of a wheel with pedals made from this:

Wonder how well it would work... It's called "turkkilevy" in Finnish, which would translate directly into something like either Turkish plate or fur plate, but that's not probably the correct translation

[dmethvin]

@esaj I think it's called "diamond plate" you can get it in several different kinds of metal and plastics.

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

The peripheries of the toe and heel extended areas wouldn't need a huge amount of strength as most of the foot pressure is more centralized so I think a thin metal plate overlay might work just fine.  Drill some counter sinked screw holes to secure it to the original pedal, and there ya go a custom sized pedal.  The larger size would allow bigger footed riders more comfort over longer runs.

[Gunthor]

9 hours ago, esaj said:

Which is..? Or did I miss it?

@esaj, OK - you got me: My line of thinking was not so reasonable that logically thinking people might follow: (1) Wider pedals allow extra pads on the KS-logo without loosing a secure stance (2) Because of the extra pads ankles do not touch (and hold) the screw covers any longer (3) You may loose the screw covers! The tongue of your smiley you stick out at me conveys clearly that you are of the opinion that it is a disadvantage of the added pad and not of the wider pedal. I hate to admit it but... you are right. 

9 hours ago, Addwyn said:

I decided to screw the covers instead of glueing them.

@Addwyn, thank you for this modding idea - You definitely never loose this part again. I'll copy this as soon as I get the part from my dealer. 

9 hours ago, steve454 said:

You have given me the idea to change my riding settings to experience new riding techniques.

@steve454, there were two reasons for me changing the setting to soft mode: Learning new skills was one of them. The other one is to become more relaxed and to widen my awareness while riding. Now I am not as agile and fast as with the other setting - but if this would be my higher priorities I would not have gotten a one-wheeler but an S-Pedelec instead. 

A third reason comes to mind: When you are a master of the soft (flow) mode your driving style will appear more elegant and superior, because in order to be "in sync" with this wheel setting it is necessary to advance your body motions - that will trigger the steering mechanism - with the same prolongation that got programmed into the soft mode. And this - I imagine - will feel and look cool and awesome: The stance on the pedals will become the dance of the rebels. Maybe we can infect more with this idea. 

 

[steve454]

On 5/27/2016 at 7:13 PM, edwin_rm said:

@esaj The light is by default set to "auto", however with a simple tap in the app (KS 3.0-beta) there is a setting to have it stay always off or always on. No need to modify the wheel! Also, the KS16's tire is rated for 4.6 bar. You can definitely inflate it hard. 

That is weird font, but good information..

[esaj]

Got the KS16 on loan again, just rode something like 30-35 km in one go without stopping once. The pedals are just great, with the hiking boots, I didn't have any discomfort, except towards the end in the last couple of kilometers, as my foot shifted a bit on a bump and I didn't find a good position for it again (and didn't bother to stop ) as I was coming home anyway... Only rode on paved roads, flirted at the edge of 1st and 2nd warning on long straights (don't know what the settings for those are, 27/28 maybe?), crawled at sub-walking pace behind pedestrians and weaved through some crowds. No off-roading in this trip. Love the way the KS16 rides, almost makes me regret not ordering one, but then again, I still don't want to "waste" those custom-packs, it has become a sort of a principle

I charged the wheel "to the brim" just before leaving, using Charge Doctor V2 to check the capacity. The owner said it was ridden empty, but I didn't check it or anything (can't measure the voltage from the charge port because of the diodes, and didn't have the app installed). Anyway, I was using the 5A fast charger set to full voltage, and at first the charge stopped once the charging current dropped to 1A (as I had forgotten to turn off the auto-stop in Charge Doctor ). After disabling the auto-stop, I manually stopped charging when it was showing 0.06A of charging current (60mA). The voltage at this point was 66.7V, which seemed a bit odd, so I measured the output of the charger with two different multimeters, and the output was 66.7-66.8 (it first showed aroudn 67.1, but dropped fast to those values in about a minute). According to Charge Doctor, the capacity charged was 591.1Wh. 

I then digged up my original Firewheel Charger (2A, 67.7-67.8V output) and used that to charge it again after letting the batteries sit for a while. By the time the charging current had dropped to 0.07A (70mA), the voltage was 67.3V and about 21.4Wh more had entered the packs, so 612.5Wh in total. Not that big of a difference vs. the 66.7V charge. And before you start screaming "overcharge!" since it was over 67.2V, remember, there are reverse-polarity protection diodes in the BMS, so the actual cell-voltage is about 0.5-0.7V smaller (that's why the FW charger puts out about 0.5-0.6V more than the 4.2V per cell -voltage would be, to overcome the voltage drops of the diodes). A properly working BMS should cut the charge anyway, should the voltage go too high (which it did not do here). Also, the Charge Doctor calibration might be slightly off, maybe? I wouldn't put too much trust in my cheapo-multimeters either

Most cells will only get out their full capacity, if they're discharged to (or below) 3.0V per cell before charging, so probably KS doesn't let you ride it that empty (or you'd have to do it repeatedly, letting the cells recuperate a bit and then riding them until the wheel says they're empty again). That 20Wh more you get with charging them "to the brim" isn't probably worth it, at least as long as the BMS starts balancing the cells before full voltage.

With the Firewheel, I could get about 270Wh crammed into the (nominal) 264Wh cells, by repeatedly riding it until the "out-of-battery" -warning, then letting them recuperate and doing it again, until it started the warning directly even after waiting for about a minute between restarts, and after that charging it until the charge current was <10mA. But then again, Firewheel only starts the warning when the total voltage drops to somewhere below 48V (so below 3.0V per cell).

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

Did you notice any hint of failure to balance from a standstill hop on start?  I remember hearing that the EWheelmotion guy Alex mentioning something about this in a video review, but people seemed to brush it off since he mainly sells Ninebots/InMotion wheels I think.  It's interesting, sadly, to see that more people are discovering that this warning to be true.  I don't know where the video is, but I'll try to dig it up...

[esaj]

2 minutes ago, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Did you notice any hint of failure to balance from a standstill hop on start?  I remember hearing that the EWheelmotion guy Alex mentioning something about this in a video review, but people seemed to brush it off since he mainly sells Ninebots/InMotion wheels I think.  It's interesting, sadly, to see that more people are discovering that this warning to be true.  I don't know where the video is, but I'll try to dig it up...

Nope, although since I only came to a (more or less) full stop for very brief moments during crawling (and didn't put my foot down), I didn't really do but one "hop on"-start at the start of the journey. I've read about the problems though, hard to say what it is exactly, only thing that comes to my mind is the current spike that occurs when the wheel starts going from standstill, but not sure if that's it.

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

Okay I think this is the video.  I think it's in German, but I think someone translated it saying that he mentioned something about cutouts or maybe it was regarding overpower messages?

https://fr-fr.facebook.com/DasElektrischeEinrad/videos/642516522565700/

[US69]

What People don't have to Forget here:

this Firmware glitch only comes After You have Switched The Power on....Not when you Are Having a normal stop inbetween riding...

so lets "Not make an elephant out of an moskito" :-) yes! This failure Is Not acceptable....but it did Not hurt The "normal" riding...

on 14 Days of my New ks18.....i only got it on the very First Start..then Never again....

[dside]

2 hours ago, esaj said:

Got the KS16 on loan again, just rode something like 30-35 km in one go... 

So what was your battery status after the trip?

[esaj]

20 minutes ago, dside said:

So what was your battery status after the trip?

Well, it has had several hours to recuperate now, and it's showing 7 green leds when powered up. According to the manual, that should be between 60 and 62.5V.