Blunzn

but it would also be slower no place for a second battery in the small 1/14th car. and it already got heavier through the additional cameras. the main problem are the cheap rear dampers, they need harder oil, stiffer springs or just bigger dampers from a 1/10 car. the runcam thumb pro rearcam had a pretty hard time, even with gyroflow stabilization in post, especially on coarse gravel roads. the steering was a bit loose too, which didn't help, but thats already fixed now.... then the lenscover gets dusty super quick ... the insta go3s frontcam would have done a better job in the rear, need to switch them sometime. for a budget 150$ basher car, the hypergo 14210/14209/H14BM, ist pretty sturdy and recklessly overpowered, pretty hard to controll @ 70+ km/h did some upgrades (esc/gyro-rx) which helped a lot. changing the dampers, stronger servo and some metal parts is still on my todo-list.

it's a basher-'dog', so no problem insta360 go 3s in the front, back of the car and on the EUC are runcam thumb pro cams. the go3s would do a better job as a rear cam too. but the runcams are much cheaper and run up to 5 hours on a 18650 powerbank.

walked my camera-'dog'

travel video to a small musik/art festival near Vienna. the way there was partly with train and 66km with my s22. next day the whole 108km trip back home. our old nuclear power plant was never turned on, perfect to easily find the restaurant/charging station beneath

reviving my rusty juggling skills

explored a blue MTB trail near Vienna. in 1924 it was a sled/bobsleigh track (Rodelbahn), abandoned in 1971. now part of 3 MTB trails with combined over 4km and 335m elevation change. for sure not the last time i'll going there quite long video the middle Krauste Linde-trail is faster, mallower and and connects to the last part, the steeper Anninger-trail only 2 cams, as my iphone refused to do its job ... and the last trail, Anninger with some small jumps.

some hills climbs and scouting out easy single trails around vienna.

anybody know why his youtube channel is gone ... he was also gifted as video editor ... https://www.youtube.com/c/fantomaseuc ... too bad there are mostly previews of his full videos on insta .... hope he is well.

redirecting light with fibreoptics from the S22 frontlight

you'll get faster after some trys last full tire swap was in ~1h30min with some minor cleaning. with 2 motors and mudguards you could do <30min quickswaps ...

one handed stair hopping

i thought about using a little piece of velcro (fluffly side) against noises involving the motor cable. or a blob of black silicone. but i have to wait till next week until i get my S22 ... and checking/glueing all the screws is probably a must too.

definitly a good idea. or some sort of case/frame for putting them in/out fast. the outer part would be cool enough to hold the 'plugs' in place even if they deform a bit. then attach in to a nearby screw as safeguard. for riding with full brightness you just rip them off the light (ofc the tangeling tpu parts shouldn't interfere with the tire or fender). when you need em just sit down and put them back in. maybe some aluminium foil on the underside of the plugs to increase/redirect more light downwards if needed.

there are some ways to reduce the brightness of the headlights. you could use some tape to cover parts of the headlight. or there where 2 stl's on the russian telegram group. ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/hsxqmgi3ghlfd8i/Fix_headlight_A.stl?dl=0 & https://www.dropbox.com/s/tme9sw18u6g3no2/Fix_headlight_B.stl?dl=0 ) both solution should give you similar results.