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[EcoDrift.ru] Ninebot Z10: A Diagnosis of Common Issues

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I still believe that the designer of the system (someone in Ninebot) is aware and have a working solution for restoring the working condition for this excellent (my opinion) wheel. But will it be unveiled or not is unknown. 

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HI

I will pull out the motor and split it so Dave can get into the guts, and as you say its just a check on shorts in the windings and/or hall sensors, seeing as its in bits anyway.

Re the BMS, my thoughts exactly, that the brain would need to see the battery information, not just the main supply voltages. I will visit Jimmy, but I do not hold out much hope, accordingly gutted both by the dumb waste of money and not being able to ride such a super thing.

I am a total true newbie and had my very first ride on the v3 (f or s?) last night in the dark so no one would see me collapsing all over the place, Ok I admit I have a brusied knee, knee pads next time, but I was riding about after 20 minutes, either I am a natural or more likely its not as hard as I had imagined.

Are you interested in having a go at repairing my old powerboard?

I have reached out to the clever chap who proposed the fitting of a relay (and left wonderful clear instructions) to ask his opinions as he seemed very knowledgeable.

Lastly do you ever go on EUC organised rides in London?  If so where does one look to find the details?

thanks again and have a great evening

 

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TBH I would have a go at repairing my own MB if it ever fried, not keen on doing someone elses though. It sounds like you are au fait with soldering, might be worth giving it a go yourself? The blown component is available and a link was posted somewhere. I will see if I can find it.

So just to get this right, your first go an on an EUC was the V3 yesterday? So the Z10 blew on the first day of you using it? Is it a new Z10?

Best bet for London rides is the Facebook group - 'Official London Electric Unicycle Group'. I think you have to request to join. Theres also 'UK EUC Meets & Group Rides', and if you are really keen the group I usually frequent is 'Essex Electric Unicycle Riders' who, unsurprisingly, cater more for Essex rides but they do post other stuff as well, for example rides to the Olympic park and down south in Eastbourne/Brighton.

Edit: It was actually me that posted the link for the hall sensor transistors (my memory is awful). It's 1 page back :)

 

Edited by Planemo

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Hi

I bought the z10 bust as a risk and its almost literally blown up in my face, ho ho. the V3 was a cheap s/h buy on ebay..the z10 came along after and I was seduced by its meety looks and "bargain" basement price.

Yes I saw it was you who had listed a link for the blown parts and that's why I contacted you as you had knowledge and were closest to me in east London, poplar.  I am in no way a good enough at soldering to tackle a PCB, but I will try to find s whizz bang electronics person to see if we can get it repaired....I doubt as the circuit is ali backed which is I think is trickier to solder anyway.

Yes my very first ride on a EUC was last night, I hid in darkness, I am a tad self conscious as a nearly 60 old bloke on a wheel toy thing is a bit er how you say silly. I wanna have another clandestine ride now but its way too wet.

I will have a look at the groups you list and also come back with any news bad/good I get, but I am feeling more and more confident that the issue with the Z10 is the BMS and therefore more and more certain I wasted a chunk of money....I will then break it up and sell for parts, or what about trying to fit the brain from another wheel???? Gotway monster?? Yes I would have to make a higher voltage battery pack.

See you out there.

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Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

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3 hours ago, Kristofior said:

Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

If it helps in your decision making,  my Z10 is: 1832 with just over 3000kms and No issues at all so far!

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5 hours ago, Kristofior said:

Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

Theres not enough conclusive evidence to say that earlier wheels are any better or worse than late wheels. It was claimed that Ninebot upgraded the Z10 in April 2019 but no one knows what they did (or didnt) do. There hasnt been enough feedback on post April 2019 wheels to say if anything is better or worse.

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Not sure. Theres obviously far less around than the Z10. Although I think it was a Z6 that the crazy Russians converted to a big battery....not sure if it was because of problems or not...

Edit: just to add, I never had any problems with my 6 (an early build), and it felt as solid as my 10. They actually felt like exactly the same wheel until you hit the extra speed and range of the 10. 

Edited by Planemo

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My Z10 has started having major calibration issues. When I turn it on , it is tilted forward. I have to calibrate it before I can ride it every time. As I am riding it slowly starts to tilt back. I have to calibrate it multiple times and it eventually goes back to being tilted back. I have even manually calibrated. The battery is good. Any advice?

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Have you done the 'posture calibration' too?

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Is a Drift of the Gyros/Pedals normal? At Power on IT Levels to where IT was calibrated (-2 Degree Forwards Tilt with Manual calibration) and while driving (and Warming Up) IT goes solwly to +2,5 Backwards Tilt after about 20-30 Minutes(so about 4,5 Degrees Range)

 

(Wheel Temp then was about 35 - 40 Celsius)....

 

Always Same, No random behaviour 

Testet with Firmwares 1.0.7 , 1.0.0 and 1.0.5

 

When I Powercycle the Wheel than its immediatly in the calibratet -2 again (No calibration needed) and same procedure Starts slowly AS described above.

 

Its Not a big Problem because the Driftrange is only 4-5 Degrees but Wonder If its normal or goes worse? Wheel is New from Week 18 2019 manufactured 

 

So IT Drifts for about 4-5 Degrees Backwards slowly at driving and resets to the calibrated Level immediatly by Powercycling (even IT has 40 Degree Temp after Powercycle it goes to the calibrated Position and Turns slowly Back while driving in about 20 Minutes)

 

 

Edited by onkeldanuel

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