[EcoDrift.ru] Ninebot Z10: A Diagnosis of Common Issues

[Ch.Eng.62]

I still believe that the designer of the system (someone in Ninebot) is aware and have a working solution for restoring the working condition for this excellent (my opinion) wheel. But will it be unveiled or not is unknown. 

[boat dog]

HI

I will pull out the motor and split it so Dave can get into the guts, and as you say its just a check on shorts in the windings and/or hall sensors, seeing as its in bits anyway.

Re the BMS, my thoughts exactly, that the brain would need to see the battery information, not just the main supply voltages. I will visit Jimmy, but I do not hold out much hope, accordingly gutted both by the dumb waste of money and not being able to ride such a super thing.

I am a total true newbie and had my very first ride on the v3 (f or s?) last night in the dark so no one would see me collapsing all over the place, Ok I admit I have a brusied knee, knee pads next time, but I was riding about after 20 minutes, either I am a natural or more likely its not as hard as I had imagined.

Are you interested in having a go at repairing my old powerboard?

I have reached out to the clever chap who proposed the fitting of a relay (and left wonderful clear instructions) to ask his opinions as he seemed very knowledgeable.

Lastly do you ever go on EUC organised rides in London?  If so where does one look to find the details?

thanks again and have a great evening

 

[Planemo]

TBH I would have a go at repairing my own MB if it ever fried, not keen on doing someone elses though. It sounds like you are au fait with soldering, might be worth giving it a go yourself? The blown component is available and a link was posted somewhere. I will see if I can find it.

So just to get this right, your first go an on an EUC was the V3 yesterday? So the Z10 blew on the first day of you using it? Is it a new Z10?

Best bet for London rides is the Facebook group - 'Official London Electric Unicycle Group'. I think you have to request to join. Theres also 'UK EUC Meets & Group Rides', and if you are really keen the group I usually frequent is 'Essex Electric Unicycle Riders' who, unsurprisingly, cater more for Essex rides but they do post other stuff as well, for example rides to the Olympic park and down south in Eastbourne/Brighton.

Edit: It was actually me that posted the link for the hall sensor transistors (my memory is awful). It's 1 page back

 

Edited September 30, 2019 by Planemo

[boat dog]

Hi

I bought the z10 bust as a risk and its almost literally blown up in my face, ho ho. the V3 was a cheap s/h buy on ebay..the z10 came along after and I was seduced by its meety looks and "bargain" basement price.

Yes I saw it was you who had listed a link for the blown parts and that's why I contacted you as you had knowledge and were closest to me in east London, poplar.  I am in no way a good enough at soldering to tackle a PCB, but I will try to find s whizz bang electronics person to see if we can get it repaired....I doubt as the circuit is ali backed which is I think is trickier to solder anyway.

Yes my very first ride on a EUC was last night, I hid in darkness, I am a tad self conscious as a nearly 60 old bloke on a wheel toy thing is a bit er how you say silly. I wanna have another clandestine ride now but its way too wet.

I will have a look at the groups you list and also come back with any news bad/good I get, but I am feeling more and more confident that the issue with the Z10 is the BMS and therefore more and more certain I wasted a chunk of money....I will then break it up and sell for parts, or what about trying to fit the brain from another wheel???? Gotway monster?? Yes I would have to make a higher voltage battery pack.

See you out there.

[Kristofior]

Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

[fbhb]

3 hours ago, Kristofior said:

Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

If it helps in your decision making,  my Z10 is: 1832 with just over 3000kms and No issues at all so far!

[Planemo]

5 hours ago, Kristofior said:

Hi,

Do you know which batch is mostly concerned by these issues on tje Z10 ?

I am about to buy a 1833 batch (2018 week 33) and just wondering...

(1833 batch number is part of the serial number)

Chris.

Theres not enough conclusive evidence to say that earlier wheels are any better or worse than late wheels. It was claimed that Ninebot upgraded the Z10 in April 2019 but no one knows what they did (or didnt) do. There hasnt been enough feedback on post April 2019 wheels to say if anything is better or worse.

[TheseusMinor]

Has anyone ever had any issues with their Z6???

[Planemo]

Not sure. Theres obviously far less around than the Z10. Although I think it was a Z6 that the crazy Russians converted to a big battery....not sure if it was because of problems or not...

Edit: just to add, I never had any problems with my 6 (an early build), and it felt as solid as my 10. They actually felt like exactly the same wheel until you hit the extra speed and range of the 10. 

Edited October 3, 2019 by Planemo

[Anthony Edwards]

My Z10 has started having major calibration issues. When I turn it on , it is tilted forward. I have to calibrate it before I can ride it every time. As I am riding it slowly starts to tilt back. I have to calibrate it multiple times and it eventually goes back to being tilted back. I have even manually calibrated. The battery is good. Any advice?

[Planemo]

Have you done the 'posture calibration' too?

[Anthony Edwards]

Yes. 

[onkeldanuel]

Is a Drift of the Gyros/Pedals normal? At Power on IT Levels to where IT was calibrated (-2 Degree Forwards Tilt with Manual calibration) and while driving (and Warming Up) IT goes solwly to +2,5 Backwards Tilt after about 20-30 Minutes(so about 4,5 Degrees Range)

 

(Wheel Temp then was about 35 - 40 Celsius)....

 

Always Same, No random behaviour 

Testet with Firmwares 1.0.7 , 1.0.0 and 1.0.5

 

When I Powercycle the Wheel than its immediatly in the calibratet -2 again (No calibration needed) and same procedure Starts slowly AS described above.

 

Its Not a big Problem because the Driftrange is only 4-5 Degrees but Wonder If its normal or goes worse? Wheel is New from Week 18 2019 manufactured 

 

So IT Drifts for about 4-5 Degrees Backwards slowly at driving and resets to the calibrated Level immediatly by Powercycling (even IT has 40 Degree Temp after Powercycle it goes to the calibrated Position and Turns slowly Back while driving in about 20 Minutes)

 

 

Edited October 19, 2019 by onkeldanuel

[Dąbrowski Łukasz]

Guys, i’ve a problem after mainboard change . Board is activated and starting but ..... i see only the empty battery icon and blinking bt . On the front blinking blue and red lights . Nothing work. Battery is fully charged . I can connect with device by ninebot app and there is all data about batteries and board (battery 96% charged and status „normal”) . After connection with app there is a message about unrecognized problem (38) . Does anybody know what can be wrong? Hall sensors in the motor is ok . 
similiar problem is shown on this movie: 

 

[DWOTR]

I was looking at a z10 last year. That is where I started this year in my search (slowly I started getting pulled to the gotway MsuperX. I started going back to the Z10 based on looks (I don't think that anybody can deny that it is one of the best looking wheels out there.)

 

I had heard of some issues- but there is a retailer in Canada who stopped carrying gotway based on their poor experience. Part of me figures that there will be problems with every brand (if you believe the car review sites, there is no good manufacturer of automobiles.)

 

However, there appears to a major issue with these, and it is really too bad that they don't appear to be standing behind the product. Just wanted to take a moment to thank everybody from preventing me from making what would likely be a mistake (importing one of these from aliexpress with no support to Canada.) But they just look so good with the wide wheel and graceful lines. It's a shame...

[shellac]

Seriously considering the Z10. I realize it has some issues but it stands to reason newer batches of the wheel should have them fixed. I mean ninebot is still selling the wheel, maybe not where I am in the US, but they must know about the problems and presumably fixed them?

Does anyone have experience with newer batches of this wheel?

Thanks. 

[xorbe]

As far as I know, they still have to unplug the packs, so that the packs aren't drained and damaged while sitting in a warehouse and during shipping.  I think buying a Z10 involves accepting a bit of a gamble and likely future failure.  Nothing lasts forever though, how bad do you want to ride one for a while?

[shellac]

Honestly I’m not sure the vampire drain is a big deal. Certainly it is if the battery is damaged before I get the wheel, but besides that I would just have to be sure not to leave i’m unplugged for a long time. 

Honestly I’m used to that behavior. That’s already the case with my Tesla Model 3. They also lose a percent or two a day. Of course the Tesla is doing useful things while it’s parked, not sure what ninebot’s excuse is, lol. 

[Boris Lämpel]

On 8/24/2019 at 3:46 PM, RoberAce said:

 

I just wanted to say, that I had right the same problem. Heading up a hill that was way too steep... Wheel gave warning sounds and shut off immediately. After switching it on again, it shaked and was not driveable.

I just ordered a new MOSFET, waited 5 weeks, installed it and now drive like before (apart from steep hills)

[Planemo]

Good job

Out of interest, did you have to 'activate' the new board or was it plug and play?

[Boris Lämpel]

No, just unplug the old board and reconnect all the cables to the new MOSFET. It is not the motherboard, so it does not need anything else to do.

[Planemo]

Great, thanks. I knew the motherboard needed coding but wasn't sure if the power board was linked as well. Wouldn't have surprised me knowing ninebot lol.

[Liv2xplore]

I got mine used a month ago, it already had over 3,000 km so based on the thread I "should" be okay for the most part. I hope so, because I love it and I'm thinking about getting new shell pieces from Ali Express to freshen it up. I already ordered a new trolley handle that should be here at the end of August. It looks like the parts are readily available there for the most part, but you have to wait a month for shipping purposes. That might get longer with the current political and economic environment over time.

[who_the]

10 hours ago, Liv2xplore said:

I got mine used a month ago, it already had over 3,000 km so based on the thread I "should" be okay for the most part.

Congrats, great wheel. Important tip: Don't EVER let it get snagged or caught on anything (curb, baseboard, etc.) as you are starting it up. Sure as anything you will blow your power board. I know multiple Zeds (including mine) that fell to this fate. It's an easy fix if you can source a board. I'd suggest picking up a spare while they are still available and generally affordable.

[Antoni Chujek]

On 8/10/2019 at 9:36 AM, Ziiten said:

It appears, it not just the cells 1 an 2 of the 2nd battery. Did a full recharge (about 10 h), turned the wheel on and did about five meters hovering back and forward and this is what I got. The first image is taken right after I got the cell voltage difference warning, the other image is about five minutes after the wheel being turned off (about 5 secs turned off will do it too). I wonder if the problem is the battery after all or something in the bms.

I have exactly the same problem with exactly the same symptoms. For me, there is a difference on cells 3 and 4 as in battery 1, as in your screenshots. Did you fix the problem? What was the reason? BMS? Battery cell damaged? Or maybe loose cables?