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  • Location
    Calgary, Canada
  • EUC
    Gotway RS torque

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  1. The good news is that you can always purchase your upgrade wheel next year. The V8 is a blast. But next year you will be looking around and realizing that you want more range... or more power... or a second wheel. I was surprised how many there are in Alberta as well.
  2. Aargh. You appear to be correct. Maybe bearing slop. My motor guy did take a look at it and it does not appear to be a magnet- there are some wires that appear a little crushed, but whatever. It should work. He is going to put a little voltage through it and do a couple more tests. Then I am going to bring him the new bearings and he is going to install them. Then I will bring him a case of beer and pick up my motor. I had measured across for resistance with my Fluke thinking it would be better than my amprobe and got open on all. That said, I bought this model for working around
  3. Thanks for the advice on the board. The original bearings have around 800Km on them. I had avoided the rain pretty well, and they didn't look contaminated. I have some great grease here at work as well as a needle to fill it and displace the petroleum jelly. Right now, it is all going to come down to what caused the board to fry. To me, it sure sounded / smelled like a short. The only place I can see that happening is in the motor. Like I said, assembled on a Friday right before quitting time. (Or being as it was China, maybe the joke should be modified to Sunday, just before suppe
  4. I don't know about that. The worst motors I have ever seen come from Italy. (6X) 3/4Hp 600V 3 phase motors had their windings "melt" within a day. All of them were rewound by my guy at Complete electric... Any industrial equipment that is made in Italy can be assumed to be manufactured with parts that were rejected as inferior quality in China... Speaking of which, I love having a "motor guy." Terry is going to try to get to it tomorrow. He agrees that it likely is not the bearing based on the feel of the motor. Without disassembly, his best guess is that one or more of the magnets
  5. Well... I think this is one of the more sloppily wound motors that I have seen. I wonder if the wire making contact between the rotor and the stator might have been responsible? I think this one pretty much is touching, there are a few others that look pretty shoddy as well. So far, I believe my unicycle was built on a Friday. The last one to roll off the line before quitting time... I think I will end up asking my motor guy if I get a chance to get out of the office tomorrow... I probably should not be surprised. I don't know of any industry or product where workers ta
  6. Well, this seems like as good a place as any to drop a couple more pictures. Hopefully they help somebody in the future... I think I can spot the problem with this board... I will update when I get a new board and hope that it is not the motor that is shorted somewhere. I will pull the cover off and take a quick look for any signs. Or maybe I will run it up to Terry at Complete electric (a great shop in town that I use for all of my industrial motor repairs...) I'm sure he can do a quick test and let me know that it is all good before I risk a new board.
  7. Ha! what do you know. I get to learn something new today. If I "tip" the wheel forward and back, the voltage between the different legs changes. So, if I tip it backwards, the voltage increases from the 1.9V to 80, while the measurement between leg 2 and 3 reduces. I suppose that makes sense. Now it has me scratching my head again... But at least it makes sense how these contraptions operate...
  8. Thanks. I appreciate the knowledgeable reply. I actually just unplugged the motor leads and turned the wheel on. To my amazement, it powered up (obviously without the motor trying to balance it.) For fun, I measured between the different legs. Around 80 V between "1 and 3" as well as "2 and 3" But only around 1.9V between "1 and 2". Hopefully that makes sense. I attached a picture for reference. What you are saying does make sense. The fact that it occurred right after the wheel was apart has me unconcerned with paying for a board. It would be nice (and I'll ask) but my main concer
  9. So the pedals on the RS broke and I ordered new ones. While it was down, I decided to do a tire swap. Bought two new tubes, one of which had a hole fresh from the factory (small, and I will patch it as a spare.) The bearings were making a bit of noise as well and are "binding." So I have new bearings arriving. They did not show the same "gunk" as others and visibly looked pretty good on inspection. The pedal hangars had three bolts that held the shell on that were cross threaded / stripped (those will also be arriving.) Anyhow, the pedals arrived, and the tire was on. So I decided
  10. Thanks for putting that together. It was cool to meet everybody this evening. And wow, @Wren- that wheel was amazing.
  11. Well, I will be there if my heel feels OK. I suppose if worse comes to worse, I may depart a little early- so I think the answer is "yes" After a fight with a car, and a bad landing, my heel is bruised on the sides and I cracked my pedal that was not originally cracked. So one or the other ought to snap in half doing some trails... Anyhow, Fish creek, 18:30. Check.
  12. Thanks. It does not sound like it will be warranty (the scrape on the side...) That said, it looks like I may end up with a set of Clark pedals. I kind of want the anodized red, but worry that they will not look so good if they are subjected to the kind of wear that might occur. Maybe I will stick to aluminum... The crack does worry me. Like you said, cast is not the most robust material. The good news is that the weather is in the negatives for the next while- so at least for awhile I will not be tempted to ride.
  13. Before I bother putting in for warranty, I thought I would see what the opinion of the group is. I was wiping down my machine yesterday when I noticed a line on a pedal. Turns out that it is a crack (and it kind of looks like it goes right through.) Now, there is a "dent" at the top of it where I assume I clipped something. I will likely get custom pedals anyhow- but should I bother putting in a warranty claim- is this my own fault- is it abuse? Or is it a known issue with weak pedals? Now also seems like the time to elicit advice on riding it. It seems pretty solid- and I really d
  14. Allow me to be the first to point out that you are a VERY poor salesman... With the obvious having been stated, I had no idea that geared unicycles even existed. I had seen ones with a brake- but that seemed like it would be destined to stop the wheel and allow you to continue rotating (directly into the ground.) Still, it would be interesting to be able to get the skill to ride.
  15. How fortunate. I just so happened to have my phone beside me while scanning the forum. 5 stars left. Thanks for a great app.
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