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  • Location
    Calgary, Canada
  • EUC
    Gotway RS torque, Sherman, Mten3

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  1. You ever find yourself in Calgary? There is a small group that sometimes gets out (used to be a few EUC's- but then one of the guys had surgery.) Now mostly onewheels and electric skateboards along the paths or the streets of downtown. I've been offroading at fishcreek lately (since the RS came back online.) Another member here and I will go for fairly long rides around town. I keep meaning to get out of town- and I need to buy a Banff pass anyhow (got a sunshine card for this season...) But the season is getting short.
  2. I may as well give what should be a final update to this... I actually finally got around to deciding I was going to bite the bullet and take the thing apart (again.) Life got in my way for the last few weeks. When I went to remove the shell, I noted on the side that had the pedal hanger problem that I had two of the bolts a tiny bit lose. I think I mentioned it earlier in the thread- but the pedal hangers were crossthreaded from the factory to the point that one of the bolts snapped while being removed, and two of them took the threads with them when I got them out. So I didn't wa
  3. Thanks- I will check. It did not buzz before being opened. There was bearing noise developing- but nothing like this. But when I took off the shell, a couple of the pedal hanger bolts had been put in cross threaded (one head snapped off when taking it out- another one or two were almost impossible to get out without that problem...) I will check it out.
  4. I will break down this evening and will check it out. I would like to believe that it was assembled correctly- I have used the same shop for a decade now with no problems from a complete rebuild on a 250HP motor to a tiny steering motor. But there is always a first time- and I'm sure that this was the first EUC motor he would have seen. Just the same, I am still holding out hope. This is a very useful guide and should be stickied somewhere. I will follow it step by step (probably bring the unicycle back to work where I have a little more bench space...) Good thing I have a million
  5. Thanks. I suppose that is true with the aluminum. I'm pretty much down to grasping at straws for a a reason for this whole thing. I've also kind of lost track of the issues and the order that they came up. I do know that this whole thing started when I decided to put a knobby tire on the RS. I still don't know how a simple tire change lead to where I am. But at this point, there does not appear to be much sense in asking that question... They were aligned fine. A motor shop that does motors for everybody from Toyota, crown and tennant to oilfield rebuilds changed out the bea
  6. Thanks, I did watch that as well. Great video to get a feel of what you are facing taking it apart...
  7. Well, that was fun. I'll link the youtube video below. there is a pretty major wobble in the wheel. So I used a improvised runout gauge consisting of pliers holding a pointer (so not really a gauge.) The wheel seemed OK, so I went to the rim. There is a pretty good bang in it with a deformity. I have to assume this is from hitting a 90 degree curb at around 40. The wheel worked just fine after that- but maybe when it was apart some stress relieved itself and knocked things off center or the bearing holders / covers warped? With that said, it cannot be completely the di
  8. Just as an update- you were correct. It hit failure mode. So I put in all 5 jumper cables to make measuring the voltage easier. It was a consistant0 - 3.3 volts for each hall sensor as the wheel rotated. There were very fast changes (almost direct from 0 - 3.3 volts with almost nothing in between.) Supplied voltage to the sensors was 4.4 volts. I'm now at the point where I am going to plug in the motor again, lift it, and hit cut out speed for the heck of it. I want to see what it does, and I'm frustrated. Maybe the marine grease that I packed the bearings with is too thick and it
  9. I had measured the board with the motor outputs unplugged and it was steady depending on the angle that I tilted the wheel to. I don't really know exactly what readings I'm looking for- but there was nothing "jumping" that might indicate a reason for the vibration. I have some jumper wires for the hall plug so that I can measure the output. From what I can tell, the first pin closest to the hub (in this case, the brown wire) provides 5 volts and is the common +, and the one furthest from the hub (the black wire) is the common -. From my understanding, I should be able to measure the voltage be
  10. Haha. I was sure they were not. But my cobbled together spacer with a zip tie came out. (I picked a stupid time to have apparently ran out of tape...) Yes, two were, and now I don't feel so smart... I actually came back to work to check as I was positive they were not... Good reason to have a whole forum of eyes. Thanks.
  11. I decided to follow through with that plan of slow rotation of the wheel. It is funny- the wheel did rotate very well when I first hooked it up. There was no excessive rotational resistance. Now I will attach a couple of videos. It went back to doing what it did before the new bearing was replaced ("grabbing and releasing" as seen in the first video of this post) and now it is close to locked up (as seen in the second video.) Now, I would say it was bearings... But the bearings were just swapped out. I know somebody will say "you must have hit the race with a hammer or installed th
  12. It is not beyond the realm of possibility. I took the video and walked away in disgust. Tomorrow (the wheel is at work) I will have to take it apart again and pay special attention to that for testing continuity and possibly a short between two wires. I guess it would be nice if it were that simple. It does kind of make sense. When I first turned on the wheel and it was almost perfectly upright the first time there was not much noise. It was only when I "leaned" the wheel that it got upset and threw a fit. *Also that hard noise it made the first time... It almost was li
  13. Well, here it is uploaded to youtube. Any ideas short of a sledge hammer or a jerry can of gasoline? So, I bought the board rather than wait for any chance of warranty. However, I think I probably need to reach out to the seller and ask what the remedy to this is. As much as I didn't want to spend the money on a board, I recognize that a board is usually "user error." But this cannot be "user error." The bloody thing wants to blow itself to kingdom come... and the board is new. For anybody asking- yes, the wires are hooked up in the correct order.
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