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Found 55 results

  1. Just Over 50 miles of usage. Purchased this wheel and the V10f at the same time. I'm keeping the V10F so the Z10 is now for sale. My asking price is $1700. Shipping is included. I can also ship internationally.
  2. Hi guys, I ordered a set of the Z Team HK Pedals on 03.27.2019 and they arrived 04.07.2019. The communication with the seller was great, I ordered via PayPal, got a tracking number and I think it was UPS that delivered them. I've been riding on them for several weeks now to get a full review going with pros / cons, I also needed to try them with different shoes because the angled ends of the pedals changed what I would want to wear while riding it. For anyone wondering: I paid for these pedals with my own money, I'm not affiliated with Z Team HK, and I'm a US size 10 in shoes! First impressions, straight out of the box the pedals are nice and thick stainless steel with a grippy matte finish. Included are two strong magnets to swap out the stock magnets, allen wrench, extended pedal padding, and screws (Loctite for the screws not included). When I ordered it there were no instructions / videos online on how to put everything together but I figured it out pretty easily from pictures, since then they've put up an instructional video on Facebook. The Z Team HK guys decided to laser engrave their logo on the top of the pedal. As of right now they don't offer any other styles / colors. If you won't like how it looks you can always stick sandpaper on top of it. I sprayed mine with Truck Bed Liner then applied the screws in with blue Loctite. After installing them I couldn't get my new pedals to close properly, it looks like the extended ends hit against the Lower Protective Pads. A couple of quick passes with an Exacto knife created an opening for them and the pedals now fit perfectly. And if you guys haven't figured it out by now, my Z10 is a daily commuter that's been bashed a few times so I wasn't too worried about the overall aesthetics of things. However, if you want to keep your Z10 looking nice, be aware the Lower Protective Pads will interfere with the pedals. I spoke with Z Team HK and they are aware this was an issue but I couldn't find mentions of it anywhere on their pages. Converse, Vans, Skate Shoe Ride Review: This part I'm going to review the pedals when using shoes with flat outsoles that were mostly flexible. The pedal pins really lock the shoe in place horizontally, there is no slipping effect when carving or hard turning which was really confidence inspiring and I definitely was turning at higher speeds I would normally do. The extended pedals create a concave effect, I played with my foot positioning a few times and decided to keep them dead center on the pedals. This helped lock my foot in place and the extended pedals also help eliminate some foot fatigue during the longer rides because my foot was no longer hanging off the front or back ends. Now for the CONS: installing these pedals required you the remove the rubber bits that came on the stock pedal and I did not realize how much road cushioning those little bits provided (I think I understand why people like the Inmotion V10F Pedals now haha). Going over speed bumps and some large cracks made me almost want to launch off of the pedals, so even though these things added horizontal grip via the pins/screws some of the stock pedal's vertical "grip" was lost. With my foot perfectly centered I actually found it kind of harder to slip my feet around the pedals to change positions, you now have to lift off a bit to move your foot. I didn't realize how much I would reposition my feet on a ride until I was unable to do it normally. So although my foot can be kept at a comfortable position for a longer period of time, my position options were now more limited. Moto, Boot, Hard Outsole Shoe Ride Review: Now I'm moving onto shoes with a mid-ankle, relatively flat outsole, but are more rigid / not flexible mainly due to additional protection like CE Certification. I like wearing these shoes because they provide more of a cushion without sacrificing stability on the stock pedals. Also, these are well padded around the ankles and are my go-to when I'm trying something adventurous like going uphill offroad and such. With the new pedals installed there wasn't much of an impact on the cushioning like I had felt with the skate shoes. The additional horizontal grip is still there as well. However, these shoes are bulkier than my other shoes and when positioned dead center on the pedal for an extended amount of time my foot got tired more quickly. I tried to reposition my feet because on the stock pedal I usually have my feet poking out the front more with these kind of shoes, but with the pedal extensions they got in the way and made me a bit more unbalanced. Trying to move my feet further back had me hit the back extender, I couldn't find an ideal foot position after several rides. These shoes were not the best or most comfortable on the stock pedal, and with the extended pedal the effects are compounded. Final Thoughts: The pedals provided cornering benefits on flat surfaces using skate shoes. You won't fear slipping off your pedals from leaning too hard on a turn, and we all know how hard turning on the Z10 can be. The extended bit allowed me to go a bit further before having to reposition my foot due to fatigue. I rode for about 3 weeks now and I would be happier if there was an extended pedal version that was flat at the ends instead of angled. I think that angled bit sacrifices foot position variety for handling gain. The added harshness of the ride could be offset with some soft/cushioned deck tape I think but will need more experimenting to find out. If you want that added grip feel the screws provide you can try buying Mountain Bike Pedal Screws and using those in place of the stock screws, you'll get a nice balance of grip / comfort and not lose any of the foot positions. I can see some people REALLY liking these pedals though for that extra grip alone. For anyone wondering if the pins would damage the bottom of your shoes, they usually don't. People have been riding mountain bikes with pins on pedals for a while now and they're perfectly fine. I only noticed a few semi-permanent indentations on my Alpinestars moto shoe, but that shoe has an exceptionally soft outsole compared to everything else I own.
  3. NineTool - Program for changing the model of the euc 9bot. Program Description in Spanish Supports models C/C+/E/E+/P Supports models A1/B1/S2/Turbo(The secret model with increased power and a maximum speed of 30km/h) Supports models Z6/Z8/Z10 To change the model, you need an activation code, you can get it from me, you need to send a screenshot of the program screen on the example as in the screenshot below Download EVERYTHING YOU DO WITH YOUR DEVICE, YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. Described in this topic may reduce the security of your device, and no one except you is not responsible for the execution of actions mentioned in the post.
  4. Hi! Today I've received an email from the Segway Online-Shop, because I've registered my email address for notification, when the Z10 is available. If someone ordered the Z10 from Segway Online-Shop, please give some information about the differences between imported Z10 and "official" EU ones. Link: https://shop.segway.com/de-de/de/58/-ninebot-by-segway-z10 Thinking about software versions, trolley handle, CE symbols, ...?! Thank you very much!
  5. Another excellent write-up by @EcoDrift (via Google Translate) regarding all the QC issue of recent Ninebot One Z manufacturing (including references to our very own North American superdealer @Jason McNeil ) https://ecodrift.ru/2019/02/12/ninebot-z10-chastaya-polomka/ Ninebot Z10. One of the frequent breakdowns. I tried to collect material on the pre-sale preparation and maintenance of the monowheels. But my attention was attracted by the open Ninebot Z10. He asked what happened to him, but it turned out that this is a sad whole story, which I will tell you today. After the start of sales, Ninebot Z-series monowheels unexpectedly turned out to be leaders in the number of warranty calls. Wheels directly out of the box often do not turn on, as the battery protection works. Our very first wheel didn’t turn on that way. But I came across a wheel with another problem. It clearly looks like a Facebook user (click). The wheel walks back and forth and does not really hold the horizon. I just caught the wheel disassembled: The following problem is visible on the controller: Contacts burned at current sensors: What have two. These current sensors are Hall effect and they are designed for a very high current. Such sensors (designed for high current) were detected only in Ninebot (in Gotway, sensors are connected via current-lowering resistors and have much more modest parameters). Service engineers immediately said that this is a frequent problem of the Z-series. And for example, dragged another Z10, whose contact burned down only on one sensor: You can see that the sensor on the left side feels fine: The guys from the service center tried to restore the burnt track on this wheel. After that, the wheel goes normally, but if it is on it try to drive into a small curb from the spot and everything repeats. The problem can be anywhere, but the simplest thing is to just take a new controller. Rather, the board with the power part: To check how much this “repair” really helps, I decided to check with our American colleague Jason McNeil. He is the owner of the portal eWheels.com and has sold quite a lot of Z-series monowheels. Jason confirmed that it is enough to replace one lower board and the problem does not recur. The same sensors on the new board: The reverse side of the new board (the controller is diluted on an aluminum substrate): So the repair is very simple. Disconnect all wires. Remove the fee: Thermal grease on the old board: We connect new, we connect everything back: And the wheel works great: But I decided to ask Jason about the situation with the Z-series: how often they break and how many of them have a marriage. Jason was very emotional, because from Z10 he decently boiling. Jason wants to sue Ninebot for non-compliance with its obligations and for the poor quality of the Z-series. Marriage was abound. As a percentage, this is at least 20% of all devices sold. The problem of current sensors can lead to melted wires of the phases and even burnout of the controller. And of course, enough battery problems. As a result, Jason's opinion about the Z-series in particular, and Ninebot in general, is just a piece of garbage. Sheer frustration. For the comfort of users, it remains only to add that the overwhelming majority of problems arise at the start of operation. Approximately the first 50km and a pair of first charge cycles. If the wheel has passed the initial stage, the probability decreases to very low.
  6. Heya guys. Sooo... Long story short - Segway will be launching the Ninebot Z10 model for Europe distribution. As we're on the verge of launching an EUC project, and we will be distributing them, they gave us an pre-order offer for the EUDM model (will ship in June, AFAIK). If I preorder samples for the EU distribution Z10 model, they're giving me the following offer: SRP for end clients when it hits the shelves should be 2000€ / 2236$ (retail price) We can preorder sample units (I'm sharing this only with you guys as I love that forum, and with a Z10 facebook group I'm a member of) as follows: Singe (demo) unit for 1900€ / 2100$ 2-5 units: 1800€ / 2010$ 8-10 units: 1650€ / 1850$ >10 units: TBD Also, all of those will be carrying 2 full years European Warranty, serviced here, and will be for EUDM. AFAIK warranty won't cover only physical damage. If anyone's interested, I'll find an online tool for crowdfunding, so we can place the order. Let me know what you guys think.
  7. Hi, EUCers! Incoming newbie here seeking advice on whether it is advisable to get the Ninebot One Z10 as my first and only wheel. I have some skateboarding experience from my teen days but that's a whole lifetime ago. I am in Malaysia where Ninebot has an official presence and from whom I would purchase the Z10, so I believe support won't be as spotty as I see it is in US/EU. Use case: I lie to myself that it will be commuting/mixed use but the truth is it will most likely be used purely for joyriding with some gratuitous errand runs thrown in to justify the purchase. I have both a car and moped for long- and medium-range transport. My workplace is about 6km (4 miles) from my home but I would just use my moped for that as it would be so much faster. I've actually booked the InMotion V8, thinking this should be my starter wheel. But I worry that I'll get bored of the 30km/h speed in a few short weeks. Although I suppose this also means that I am less apt to break my neck flying off a much faster wheel that I probably won't have learned to fully control yet, but I just can't keep lusting after the Z10. Would really appreciate any feedback on my intended lunacy. PS There aren't any sellers peddling KingSong and GotWay in Malaysia so it's just InMotion and Ninebot at the moment. For GotWay and KingSong, I'd have to make my way down to Singapore to pick them up.
  8. Hey all, nabbed a Z10 back in October and have been happily shortcutting urban transportation since. I recently checked the app and realized I've put 1000 miles on the wheel! I thought I'd ask if there is anything I should think about tuning up or checking out after this much mileage. The wheel is working great, and I'd love to make sure it stays that way. Any tips or advice?
  9. Necessary elements : - CRYDOM CMX100D10 Solid State Relay - Heat Shrink Tubing - Velcro adhesive tape - Equipment for soldering, cutting and stripping the wires. Warnings: The electrical modification of certain wheel connections developed here is your own responsibility. I disclaim all liability for the warranty, and all kinds of problems that you would have with your wheel during or after this modification. The modification detailed here does not modify the power wiring (XT60 connectors), and no high amplitude current flows in the circuits concerned here. This therefore greatly reduces the risk of an untimely cut off of the wheel. Electrical characteristics measured on the battery communication connector. In the lack of official technical information from Ninebot, I placed an oscilloscope to visualize the electrical signals that pass through the 2-pin connector. On the two communication connector wires, respectively yellow and green, I chose (arbitrarily ...) the green as GND reference. With the wheel started up, the observed signal revealed 20Hz signal with burst of digital frames, sometimes positive, sometimes negative with peak amplitude of about 3V, being renewed every 50ms, but most of the time between the frames, the signal remains at 0V. I did not try to decode them because this is not necessary in order to find a solution to this drain problem When the wheel is in standby state, I observed a slight voltage between yellow and green wires (do not ask me how much, I forgot to note the value!). If you disconnect the 2 pin connector, the voltage delivered by the battery on the electrodes of this 2-pin connector is 3.1VDC. (yellow wire, the ground being on the green wire). It is obviously the presence of this DC voltage which drain the battery over the days, through the input impedance of the motherboard circuits. My idea is to stop the battery communication connection when the wheel is in standby state and restore it when the power is turned on. For that I will use a static relay. This is certainly not the cheapest solution which can be designed for that, but it has the huge advantage that I have already this component. This will be the only electronic device needed. Thus, I use a CRYDOM CMX100D10 solid state relay. This model is largely oversized for my use here, I know. (picture 4) The solid state relay switching electrodes (pins 1 & 2) will be used to cut the yellow wire to the 2-pin battery connector. I chose to take the 5VDC supply voltage that power supply the bluetooth audio card to power also the both "coil" electrodes of the solid state relay (pins 3 & 4). Step 1 - Open the right side of the wheel and disconnect the two XT60 connectors. Step 2 - Open the left side of the wheel, and remove the plastic plate covering the electronic boards compartment. Identification of highlighted wires: The yellow and green wires come from the 2-pin battery connector on the other side of the wheel (picture 1). The twisted cable (picture 2) brings the power supply to the audio card. It will be used to derive the supply voltage of this card. Step 3 - Unplug the white 30-pin connector at the top of the motherboard. This is just recommended to avoid a risk of destruction of this by static electricity during the intervention. (ESD risk) You will then see this: (picture 5). For the same reason, unplug the motherboard-side connector of the twisted cord highlighted in the blue circle (picture 2). Step 4 - Cut the yellow wire that appears on the picture 1 towards the middle. You should have something like picture 3. Step 5 - Disconnect the yellow/red/black 3-pin connector connected to the audio card, then untwist the wires on 2 inches and cut the red and black wires one inch from the connector. (picture 6) Step 6 - Realization of the derivation on each of the red and black wires : Use a piece of black wire about 4 inch (I used a gray one on the photo). Solder the three black wires together. Insert a heat-shrink sleeve before solder the three black wires together. (picture 7) Step 7 - Do the same with the red wire using a piece of red wire about 4 inch long. You then see something similar to the picture 8. Step 8 - Glue the piece of Velcro tape to the static relay as shown in picture 9, and the other one on the plastic shell. Step 9 - Solder the free end of the red wire that you have prepared on the terminal 3 of the relay, and do the same with the end of the black wire (mine is gray on the photo...) on the terminal 4. Remember to put on heat-shrink sleeves before soldering. Step 10 - Now it is a matter of extending both ends of the wire cutted in step 4. If you have yellow wire use it otherwise any other color will do the trick ... Strip the end of the yellow wire connected to the white connector 30-pin, and solder a 4 inch long wire. Place two heat-shrink sleeves and then solder after shortening to the required length the free end of the wire to the relay terminal 2. Step 11 - Do the same by connecting the other cutted yellow wire end from the rubber cable clamp to the relay terminal 1. Step 12 - Place heat-shrink tubing and heat. (picture 10) Don't do like me: don't forget to reconnect the 30-pin connector before power up the wheel ... OOOOOO Reconnect both ends of the audio card cable as well. Close the wheel without forgetting to reconnect the XT60 connectors of the battery. First report of test… After 50 hours, the average voltage drop is 0,025V The voltage loss is 0,500mV/h. 50 hours is too short to obtain a better precision, but it is the value I expected ! This fix works fine.
  10. Firmware is altered in a way not intended by the manudacturer and especially alters safety features implemented by the manufacturer. Hello everyone, I create this topic to share with you results of my tests with a Z10 whose top speed has been unlocked at 56 km/h thanks to the superb work of @MRN76 and its magnificent APP NINETOOL ! A big thank you to him for this life-changing performance! First of all i'm not crazy and I ride fully equipped with good motocross protection : A Full face Motocross helmet A motorcycle jacket with integrated protection Shin guards Motorcycle gloves And I also have good accessories : A wrist mirror A blinker on the back That being said, let's begin. After 2 days of testing, I enjoy riding in a Z10 even more, which I didn't think was possible because I love riding with this wheel so much, and coming out of an INMOTION V8 it wasn't easy, though. The wheel behaves extremely well at a constant speed of 45km/h, it is a delight to be able to drive at 40-45 without tiltback and no longer have this big speed limit just dropped to 65% of remaining range. For the moment I have not yet exceeded 50 because between 47 and 49, I feel the loss of the feeling of not being able to fall (I think that those who ride in Z10 must understand what I am talking about, because it is not easy to describe as a feeling) Once the 45km/h is reached, you have to lean much further forward to accelerate and I feel that the wheel tends to lean slightly forward instead of staying straight. That said, it may be because of bad tire pressure. So I'm going to test with some different pressures to see if it improves things. Here, for this first recap, I'll post from time to time when I've done some more tests, on battery consumption etc.... Until then, have a good ride, everyone!
  11. Interesting, the new 1.1.7 BMS FW claims better/lesser vampire drain, but after leaving my Z10 unridden indoors for 1+ day (42 hours), I'm seeing what translates into .14V drop per day, roughly 1% per day.
  12. Hi I bought a ninebot z10 while completing the charging and connecting it gave the error "battery # 2: abnormal communication". I can walk but the app does not show the batteries and neither does the display show how much battery it has. I think I should be walking with one and half the capacity. Please follow the attached photos if anyone has already had this error or know how to help me from now thank you.
  13. With the latest App-Update on iOS, there is now a firmware update available for my Z10 (currently on 1.0.5 / 1.1.7): Did anyone test it yet? Won't break the Z10 with a fresh firmware...
  14. Got a new Ninebot One Z10 3 weeks ago and first thing I did to protect it from punctures I put tubeless Slime as per @Marty Backeadvice. Everything worked fine for 2 weeks until I started to feel I am loosing air slowly. I carefully checked tyre and didn't spot any puncture. I cleaned valve core one more time and screwed up, I put plastic cap on the valve and still air continue to leak. I must admit, I experimented with diffrent pressure, I started with 30 than 40 and finally 50 Psi - my weight is 95 kg (210 lbs) with backpack, protections etc even 110 kg (243 lbs) Now the symptoms, when riding to work for 20 min. - around 7 km (~5 mil) one way - all OK, after 8 hours on the way home, I feel much softer tyre and wobly especially on cobblestone roads etc. I pumped Z10 using rubber extension and to prevent air loss I unscrewed it together with attached foot pump until I learned the easy way by attaching bras extender from my Ninebot One S2 thanks to @Lukaszadvice . Any idea what might be wrong? Is it something I should do as a new owner of this wheel? Cheers
  15. Hello, I'm riding a Z10 since some month without any issues. Great wheel... At the moment I'm on holiday at Lake Garda Italy. Yesterday after Biking I took my Z10 for a nice evening trip for around 700m altitude uphill. Everything was fine and all the ebikers were praying for a bigger motor :). BUT as I stopped my Z10 after around 400-500m altitude downhill to take a picture it didn't switch on again, instead it sends a failure "battery 2: abnormal power supply (29)". Battery was at around 65%. At the end a friend of mine had to pick me up in the mountains because the wheel didn't switch on again. My first idea was, that I fried some mosfeds with to powerful regen braking. So I opened up the electronic, but everything was absolute fine. So I took my wheel to hotel and put the charger on. A minute later I tried to switch it on again and it startet as nothing happened bevor. So I charged it again to nearly 100% and tried it again going 400m up and directly after that going 400m down. AND exactly the same happened, error code 29 and the wheel didn't come up. Also the same in the hotel, put the charger in after 15seconds switching the wheel on an everything was fine. Based on this I think there has to a bug in the BMS or wheel FW. As some others discovered month ago the Z10 is only charging one battery. So it happens that the batteries become more than 10% difference between each other. If you stop there is a current going from one battery to the other. I think this could be the "abnormal power supply". If I didn't stop after the downhill everything is fine, the batteries become same level again. So has anyone experienced anything in this way with BMS FW 1.1.7 and FW 1.0.5 or 7.6.0?
  16. Hey! I'm about to pull the trigger on my first wheel and I'm looking for best in class/most bang for buck combined with best looking. Both equally important. I got a couple of more or less hopeless subjective questions I would like your input on: 1. Is the Ninebot Z10 the best looking wheel? I had decided on Kingsong 18XL until I saw the Z10. Should I still get the 18XL because it is so much better in every other aspect than design? 2. Guess no one gets away with not paying tax on stuff from Aliexpress anymore? Still cheaper even with VAT (18XL - €1900 vs €2300) but then there's the wait... seems like most deliveries take around 60 days. That's crazy long for something you want yesterday. Thoughts? I'm in Sweden so still have to buy from another country. Thanks!
  17. Hi guys, here is my Z10 modification. Extended soft pads, made with genuine leather and soft (foamed) rubber.
  18. Hello from germany, my Z10 arrived some days ago. I've tried multiple times to ride it on a flat road (bicycle path). At about 15 km/h (~10 mph) it starts to wobble a lot. Accelerating to about 20 - 25 km/h (~12 - ~15 mph) the wobbling is so strong that it's not possible to handle it any more. I wasn't able to break properly, so I felt forward onto the street (protectors rescued my reight arm and leg). My weight (including gear) is about 85kg (~190 lbm). I tried different tire pressures, first about 1,4 bar (~20 psi), after that I tried 2,2 bar (~32 psi). Both tire pressure values resulted in the same bad behavior (wobbling). Perhaps my EUC is defect, do I have to send it back to repair or to get my money back? I've searched for help on the internet, specially on this forum, watched many videos on YouTube, but nothing really helps. Any suggestion? Thank you very much! Best regards Thor
  19. I live in Brazil and I want to change the country code of the phone but it does not release me to do. Only shows the codes, + 86, + 852, + 886, + 853, not +55 which is the Brazil code. How to proceed to this otherwise I can not register the telephone and bind the electric unicycle
  20. Does anyone know which exact brand / type / model of 18650 batteries is used in the Ninebot Z6 vs. Z10 respectively?
  21. There is a pedal mod from Hong Kong Z Team riders.
  22. Scratched up my Z10 pedals plenty and am looking to replace them and the trolley handle. Ninebot doesn't seem to be offering any official replacement parts unless I'm looking in the wrong place. Has anyone bought some off AliExpress or other sites? I'm a little sketched as I don't know if they are actually Ninebot official parts, and I'd like to trust what's under my feet at 27mph. Linked a couple below. Link Link
  23. NEW VIDEO about the 2 gloves from Flatland3D. Witch one is the best? Check the video and DISCOUNT CODE LINK: https://youtu.be/uOo9nWhs644
  24. Hi guys, I have Shared on Youtube this situation related with the BAD CUSTOMER SERVICE after sales from SEGWAY. As an influencer, I decided to share my Faulty Out of the BOX Z10. If you want to see if SEGWAY will start carrying about us, share the video: Thanks guys Marco Domingos, MADpack
  25. Right, I'm impatient looking for a used or new Ninebot one Z10 any condition. let me know cash collection waiting Want want want want
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