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Boris Lämpel

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About Boris Lämpel

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  • Location
    Saxony/Germany
  • EUC
    [Ninebot one S2], [Kingsong 16S], [Inmotion V8 (brother)], Ninebot Z10, [Gotway Mten3], Inmotion V5f (dad), Gotway Nikola 100V

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  1. Hi guys, I am trading my Gotway Nikola 100 V. It has the 18650 cells. The wheel is in good used shape: minor scratches on the side shell from falling and the typical scratches on the bottom of the pedals. Actually ~1500 km on the clock. The wheel is still ridden, so the condition and odometer might change a bit. Slime is adapted. Trolley handle is the original one, without any issues. No high-speed crashes. Pictures can be founde here: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/tausch-gotway-begode-nikola-100-v-1845-wh/1760930088-241-4008?utm_source=sharesheet&utm
  2. Ich habe Reifenheber aus Metall. Die waren für's Moped gedacht und funktionieren auch beim EUC ganz gut.
  3. Mine is a POC skull. It is an older model. The newer ones all have the maxilla breakaway system. I suppose for slalom skiing (that is what the helmet is designed for) the chin guard should break at too high impacts to protect the neck. But sliding on snow is better than on asphalt...
  4. Great video! I have the same reason: I do not want to look aggressively. The protection of my maxilla is very important to me, because I have seen destroyed and scraped maxillas. My helmet has the hanger made of metal (no breakaway system). --> Yours is designed to break away at a high impact. So the impact my stands is higher. But there is one concern: that hanger is a long lever. So having removed the fear of a disfigured face, I have to be aware of a broken columna vertebralis - much worse. So at least I must'nt slide backwards. I think at sliding forwards the helmet can move t
  5. Q1: the shell is made to fit for both sides (left and right). So the holes have to be at the front and back. The screws there fit into the metal piece of the trolley. Q2: Sadly You have to open the Nik on both sides, unscrew everything (also the screws behind the RGB LED) lest the screws atached to the pedal hanger. Then You turn the wheel on the side with the motherboard, so that the side with batteries only is facing upwards. Then You remove that inner shell (unscrew screws at pedal hanger), but only on that side. For removing the inner shell You have to unplug the batteries and
  6. Well, I do not think that this will be an update to you. Much less torque and range than the 16X. But that depends on your riding style. I brakes worse too. But I still like it. The quality is wayyy better. I ride mine just because I have no money for an MSP/RS...😉
  7. With bicycles there is the same problem. The 28" touring bikes use the same rim (just a bit narrower) as the 29" MTBs. Actually the rim size is 28" for both.
  8. So it comes, that the Z6, Z8 and Z10 all have different power ratings (1200W - 1800W) whilst the motors are completely the same. Differences are just the battery and the firmware. I did not know that the firmware is able to give more effectively usable power / torque. So if the motherboards were interchangeable, the MSP HS with RS board would be as torqy as the RS HS is?
  9. In several reviews it is said that the RS HS feels much more torqy than the MSP HS. But why? They use both 100.8 V and the C30 motor. Where comes the power rating 2000 W / 2600 W from? Did they change the diameter of the motor?
  10. It is not the firmware, it's the battery. The Z6's battery is waaayyy to small for these speeds. With that hack the tiltback comes later. If You had tiltback at 30 kph than the battery was quite empty. At a low charge it is less likely that the current will be that high. So that sound won't appear. - My hypothesis😉.
  11. I am a bit jealous for not living and riding in Copenhagen like You. That must be a dream... Keep in mind that the Tesla 3 is havier than the V2. It has the new hollow motor and could have bearing problems.
  12. The Z10 cut out on me once, also without alarm. But at that moment I forced it too suddenly, so that it had no chance to warn me... But that was without the hack.
  13. The reading is upside down, the opposite as the Tesla 3. Is that fotoshopped?
  14. Jep, I recognise it too. It is the sign that the current passed a specific number. I got it also before using the hack, for example at riding over potholes etc. That alarm goes also some time after the occurence, when the current is down again. For me it has the message "that was close". Try it going slowly through a pothole. I think it should occure.
  15. Was the wheel connected to any app? I did not experience any new type of alarm, also at riding at the top...
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