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Boris Lämpel

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About Boris Lämpel

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  • Location
    Saxony/Germany
  • EUC
    [Ninebot one S2], [Kingsong 16S], [Inmotion V8 (brother)], 2x Ninebot Z10, [Gotway Mten3], Inmotion V5f (dad)

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  1. I could not see the picture. But an alternative is that: http://alexaao.com/#!/tproduct/116571802-1498486363994 Probably it will fit every Gotway wheel. But the spin kill button should be disactivated.
  2. Nun ja, wenn, wenn, dann handelt es sich um Versicherungsbetrug. Und ich weiß, "Unwissenheit schützt vor Strafe nicht", aber solange man hier nicht den Glauben erweckt, vorsätzlich gehandelt zu haben, kann man - so vermute ich - dennoch milde behandelt werden. Am Ende hängt es immer von den Ordnungshütern ab: Halten sie Dich an, weil Du ein EUC hast? Halten sie Dich an, weil Du ein Kennzeichen dafür hast, obwohl es dafür gar keines gibt? Halten sie Dich an, weil sie am Gerät interessiert sind? Halten sie Dich nicht an, weil Du ein Kennzeichen hast und den Anschein erweckst, dass alles st
  3. Pleasure Well, it was at the website, but now I cannot find it anymore. Looks like he redecorated it... Maybe You just contact him to get the app. Otherwise I can give You an apk file for the app. But it is too large for the forum. So You can contact me via Telegram (@Step-L3).
  4. Hi, You are not alone . After changing the motherboard the wheel should turn on. It is a very loud beep. Then the RGB LED are shining. Also there are some (I think it was blue and red) LEDs at the motherboard. The wheel is not balancing. But the bluetooth should be visible. For the next step there are 2 possibilities: a) You contact ninebot in China and wait until they help You activating the wheel. I suppose they will not even reply... b) @MRN76 has developed a hack software (http://mrn76.ru/en/) for android, where You can change the serial number, odometer, speed limit an
  5. Valve extension to get access to the valve
  6. For me it works perfectly too. It feels save up to the top speed. There is a tiltback, but You can force it. Currents above 120 Amps are possible.
  7. Had the same issue with my KS16S after riding 500m in wet loam. Just trolleying the wheel next to me needed 2000 watts of power. The only solution to drive again was to completely dissasemble the wheel and get the solid cloak out of the wheel arch...
  8. Hey folks! I think I read it somewhere, but could not find it anymore. Would it be possible to take a motherboard of the Gotway Msp HS (C30) and install it into a Gotway Msx 100V? Both wheels use the same motor, but I do not know, if the connections are compatible with each other. There could also be problems with the hall sensor as in the RS... Reason for this question: The new motherboard used in the Msp seems to be better engineered and adapted. So the chance of a sudden controlboard-death should be lower. Is there anyone here that thought of that or even did it? Th
  9. On my last control board I had the same issue. Recalibrating the wheel could help. I experienced that in cold temperatures the gyroscope gets problems. So after a bigger temperature change I had to recalibrate the wheel.
  10. Warning: That mod can destroy your electronics! I already tested the case of the cable being removed by accident. In every situation (stand still, accelerating, braking) I could unplug the battery and nothing happened. During a longer trip (38 km) I regularly checked the voltage of the backpack battery. I the actual case I unplugged it while I was braking gently to a standstill. At a sudden the light turned of, the wheel stopped balancing and there was a "puff" (capacitor exploded). My theory: While regenerating the Z10 regenerates only into one battery. It is not alway the same
  11. Well, You can get one. It does not only look beautiful, it drives like no other EUC - I love putting effort into every driving movement. But for me it is not the last wheel, because its motor is often too weak for me, especially with only 1 kWh battery. As for the quality: It is really well built, the parts are protected twice and three times. But there can occure errors. It is just about how to fix them. You should be able to change the MOSFET and controlboard. I had to do it for 3 times till now (my fault: I just want to much). Because the wheel is not produced anymore, the spare parts
  12. Here is my setup for using a second battery while riding: I use an original Z10 battery in my bag. So the capacity is doubled and the same in both packages. First I connected both parts of the inner battery of the Z10 to only one xt60 port. So I have got a free input for my backpack battery. I laid the cable outside next to the trolley. I just had to grind two small holes for the cables to pass through the sidecover and the upper plastic part. The two outputs of the backpack battery are also connected together. Then there is a fuse, so that there is no chance
  13. Thx! I had not read that topic before. So there could be 2 reasons: I had a big crash (40 kph) ≈50 km ago. But I can hardly imagine that this is the reason for affecting the mother- or powerboard in a destroying way. In the Z10 it is protected very good. Changing high current is always a strain for capacitors. I love hard accelerating and braking. Additionally there was a long and steep hill I climbed a short time before. The MOSFET was about 200 km old. Maybe I drove it too aggressively for the last 200km... Do You know, whether the cold can affect the durability of ca
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