meepmeepmayer

Is this an official picture? Looks like it is the same size as the Monster, just they give the real diameter instead of "22 inch". 3600Wh

Kaiju (if Godzilla is trademarked) Titan Gotway Giant ... ok nothing beats Gotzilla Really, they did? Didn't know that.

@Jean Dublin posted a nice spec sheet!! Looking good, they even give concrete info (voltages!) instead of vague, strangely translated statements. 5A charging by default! 10A possible.

The display looks neat! I wonder how good or bad their app is going to be Or maybe no app will be needed, and you can configure the wheel with the display?

If it's legit, it must be a one-battery-pack 84V Nikola (or a really crazy good price for some other reason). If it's not legit, well then it isn't. Paypal is a good idea because you can dispute if there is a problem, and then Paypal decides who is right. If you never got a package, that should be an easy win for you. Just ask the seller questions without saying much yourself, and see how he reacts. Then you can decide if to trust him. All questions you have should be easy answers for a honest seller, and he should be able to reassure you about everything and that he is legitimate.

Don't give too much attention to people's worries and speculation. Wait for the wheels to be released and for real world experience. Most likely both wheels are going to be absolutely fine. Choose the one you want, not the one you're less afraid of

Likely: Gotway Nikola 84V with 800Wh or 650Wh battery. From the voltage, it is a 84V Gotway Nikola (75V is too low even for empty battery for a 100V wheel, but for a 84V wheel it is simply about 60% battery). Credit to @travsformation for that detective work. It is not a 100V Nikola, at that voltage it wouldn't even switch on. So no concerns about any battery issues. From the price, this is likely a Nikola with one battery pack instead of two. 800Wh or 650Wh (double that would be the typical 1600Wh or 1300Wh). These are legit sold, it's literally just a normal 84V Nikola with one pack instead of two, sold for a lower price. Maybe $1000+ (very rough uneducated guess) on Ali, so 600 might be a real normal price for a used one. It's still cheap, and maybe it is indeed a scam. Maybe not. The seller should be able to answer all your questions and give you all the details. Whether and how he answers them is how you decide if he is legit and trustworthy.

Is it? This might apply to all chargers. We can move the topic if you want, though. What wheel/charger are we talking about? MCM5? The loose cable is on the charger?

The 1800Wh MSX uses/used Sanyo 21700 cells according the the Gotway website. Are these the same as the "Panasonic" cells we are speaking of here? Because the 18650s are billed as "Sanyo/Panasonic". Just wondering. They switched to LG M50Ts, but probably all 21700s before would be the "Panasonic" ones then? Or not? Because no 1800 MSX has shown any problems (or any of the older "Panasonic" 1800Wh Nikolas). So why do they suspect the battery cells right from the start, after one incident?

Manual unicyclists tend to learn in minutes. Just like you did Now it's important you wear all the necessary safety gear before you learn the hard way why you need it And don't get overconfident. This phase is dangerous, you think you can ride fine but unexpected stuff (surprise car coming at you) can send you into panic behavior instead of just calmly braking or reacting otherwise. Congratulations on the nice wheel and progress.

It's up to you. Feel free to also post in the Local Group Meetup forum or the soon-to-be-created Veteran brand forum. Wherever you get the most eyeballs.

How much did you try before? Because that looks shockingly good for a beginner. Slow start with no wobbling and no looking down while holding a selfie stick

The electrolyte fluid in Li-Ion batteries simply ignites when it gets too hot (like 200°C or so) and can "pop" the battery before that, too. Usually that heat is from a short (e.g. from water intrusion into a battery pack) or something else (in theory [never happened as far as it is known]: firmware bug) causing an uncontrolled runaway in the battery and the cells heating up rapidly until they pop or start burning. So fundamentally whether the wheel is on or off does not matter, and switching it off won't stop a fire. But of course things can be set in motion when you engage the electronics. Not sure if this happened here or was just coincidence. If you have a fire (extremely extremely rare) that you would need to stop (probably it's hardly possible to move an already burning wheel), the important thing is to cool the battery down (e.g. submerge the wheel in water). Realistically, all you can probably do is let it burn and contain the damage. - As always with battery fires, these are extremely rare, and this example should be cause for caution and introspection, but not concern

Wow, this easily could have been worse! Too bad it intimidated your friends. How was the air humidity and temperatures when this happened? Maybe some condensation got into the battery somehow? Firmware problem, and after you removed the charger, the "heating" started? 10 mins later, boom? Did you ever balance the battery (charge to full and keep the charger in for a longer while)? I didn't think even completely unbalanced cells would catch fire, but maybe they can? I am NOT trying to blame you here, this should not happen even without balancing! Maybe it's just a random coincidence, or a problem with the Panasonic (used, as per some rumors?) cells. That's the explanations I can come up with. I don't expect one from Gotway other than "We are using different cells now, problem solved". Jason doing great work as usual.

Yes he always says MSX and I expect that to be what he meant. Just wanting to be sure - This wheel looks really nice in reality, close to the renders. That carbon pattern is looking good. The 55kph top speed is also a nice surprise. They market it as offroad wheel, but I think most of all it's the best commuter wheel now.

You are right. Green light and 100% are not the same. Green light is more like max voltage. The point was to say that it doesn't end when 100% appears Post above edited.

I would trust the charger over the app. Also, keep the charger in after it goes green for a few hours, and you'll get ~10% extra energy (edit: actually that already happens before the green light, the point is to keep the charger in and not end right when something shows 100%). Anything over 100% voltage (the 100% voltage is lower than the max voltage) is shown as 100%, but it goes up to 111%! So if you need range...

Better torque than V10! Wow. When he says torque like the MSX, he means the MSX, not MSP right? I think the MSP has more torque then? Just for comparison. Is 18x3 the same as 19x3 (MSX/MSP), or is there a tire diameter difference between those two?

The voltage measurements on all wheels are quite inexact (+/- 1V can happen). Don't trust the too much. No reason to calibrate unless you get pedal dipping in curves or want another default angle. Never change a running system, especially a sketchy one like a Chinese EUC 4.2V is full, 4.1125 is 100%, 3.3V is 0% and it won't let you go lower (at 15% the battery beeps start and below 0% you always have massive tiltback). Edit: That is why, even at 0%, you still have some good safety reserves on Gotways, and why they will let you speed until the battery beeps start. Yes it will (as far as I know). You would only disable the speed tiltback (tiltback is just another speed alarm). True!

In addition: you should charge to full (100% and keep the charger in for a few hours then) regularly, maybe every 10 charge cycles or so (adding another 100% to the battery state counts as one cycle, no matter in how many increments). The fine balancing of the battery cells only happens at full battery and should be done regularly. If you never do that, you get reduced range and can ultimately (ultimately, don't worry!) even harm the battery. No harm in charging to 90% or full after each ride (just don't store the wheel for weeks/months at full, that stresses the battery).

You can ride the wheel until it throws you off for low battery (beeps and ultimately tiltback). Maybe be a bit careful and don't stress hard at lower battery. You should charge to (nearly) full after every ride if you know/expect you'll use the wheel again soon. No reason not to. Higher battery charge state is always better when riding. 24.5 miles at 25mph... starting at 90%... seems to be a very normal range. There's a lot to be gained by charging to 100% or even above (keeping the charger in for a few hours after it goes green adds another ~10% to the overall energy on Gotways, because 100% voltage isn't actually full, you can charge to 111% by their math but it won't show as more than 100%). Also you can see how much range you get if you ride it down to the battery beeps, might be a bit more as you didn't do that. So, charge to full (or a high charge state like 90%) after each ride, and maybe do a range test. Everything seems absolutely normal.

Funny, for me it was the opposite. Not being able to see exactly how the ground was ahead made me relax. In daylight, every little bump and pothole and crack and twig looked scary (>50% going on unpaved terrain). In the night, you just ride over everything like it's nothing (because it is) in blissful ignorance and enjoy the coolness of the air and yourself Anyways, all you need is more practice and maybe a heavier, tankier, more planted wheel and you'll roll in smooth confidence.

Why, what's different?

@RyanEUC You should always charge the wheel, at least to 90% or something, and nothing wrong with charging to full if you use it soon after. Higher battery % = more reserves = safer. A wheel's reserves go down with the battery charge state. 30% is essentially empty (with voltage drop under stress, that easily goes down to 15% where the low battery beeps start). Do not wait until it is "empty" to recharge again, you gain nothing from that.

Latest development seems to be that airlines got together and decided to flat-out refuse any battery-operated ridable on any passenger flights, even without batteries. Probably to prevent uncertainty and long discussions if something is ok or not. You can't expect to take a EUC on any passenger plane you don't fly yourself. Some lucky exceptions may exist, but do not rely on them.