novazeus Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 starting at 16:05 the use of a hammer. https://youtu.be/kbELczrKYMw 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 1 hour ago, novazeus said: starting at 16:05 the use of a hammer. https://youtu.be/kbELczrKYMw It's amateur hour at eevees. They don't show the re-assembly but I'm just going to assume they used the same impact driver to tighten the screws. 🤦♂️ 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tawpie Posted January 22, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 22, 2023 1 hour ago, novazeus said: starting at 16:05 the use of a hammer. https://youtu.be/kbELczrKYMw I have to say that the hammer is a classic way to free bolts that have seized, usually due to the slight galvanic incompatibility of steel and aluminum. It's a trick that's in every mechanic's bag... unless the bolt is defective it's a non-problem. 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul A Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 Maybe penetrating oil to loosen tight bolts? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 1 hour ago, Tawpie said: I have to say that the hammer is a classic way to free bolts that have seized, usually due to the slight galvanic incompatibility of steel and aluminum. It's a trick that's in every mechanic's bag... unless the bolt is defective it's a non-problem. i've used hammer and chisel before on bolts and nuts, but in this case, probably with loctite applied, heat would be my first choice. using an allen wrench and lighter. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) fyi https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/applications/all-applications/industry-insights/how-to-apply-threadlockers.html https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/applications/all-applications/how-to/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker.html Edited January 22, 2023 by novazeus 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 Are there scrape marks around the bolt holes, that arc around the center of the axis? Or are they just the texture on the part itself, elsewhere covered with grease? If the indent in the rail is very tightly made, a part like that might easily be left binding and not sitting flush. Or if they tightened one bolt fully before tightening others. Or if there was some crud left in between. In all these cases the rail could sit itself in properly later on, leaving the bolts badly loose. The force that axle bolts generally need to be tightened with makes me pretty sure that over tightening wasn’t the reason for them to snap. Then again, you can do some nasty stuff with an impact wrench. But one has to be pretty n00by to do that… 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Punxatawneyjoe Posted January 22, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 22, 2023 10 minutes ago, mrelwood said: over tightening wasn’t the reason for them to snap Sure looks like someone over tightened and snapped them to me. Ive seen/done it 1000 times. A shear doesn't leave parts of the tread left on both sides. It also doesn't leave the end of the bolt recessed inside the threads, they would be flush IMO. Also, if this happened while riding. Why aren't the wires all twisted up? He said it started "jackhammering" after the bump, so did they all break? And if so. what's the other side look like? If so, did they run back and scour the ground looking for these 2 bolt heads? A lot doesn't add up. Mr impact driver snapped them on re-assembly because he didn't have the shock strut lined up properly. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 8 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said: Also, if this happened while riding. Why aren't the wires all twisted up? Looks like the axle nub isn’t round, but has slots in it that fit in the indent in the rail preventing it from rotating around. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punxatawneyjoe Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 1 minute ago, mrelwood said: Looks like the axle nub isn’t round, but has slots in it that fit in the indent in the rail preventing it from rotating around. Yeah i had thought of that but if they snapped off while someone was riding it then it would have had to spread both sides apart and out of the slotted area. otherwise it would have just remained locked in and nobody would have noticed. That was my original point, if it was still locked into that recessed area in the slide then nobody would have noticed, only by coming out of that recessed area would the wheel start "jackhammering" as they stated. And we would have also been provided the damage to the ALUMINUM slide also. wouldn't we? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post novazeus Posted January 22, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 22, 2023 no matter what, if u take a wheel apart, and then put it back together, if there's a problem, it's ur fault. if the screws were faulty or suspect, then it's ur responsibility to change/fix the problem. that's the rule of construction. i mean, if it were a toaster, and u took it apart, and it stopped working, do u think hamilton beach is gonna fix it under warranty? 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeforester Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) 9 minutes ago, novazeus said: if the screws were faulty or suspect, then it's ur responsibility to change/fix the problem. Würth: bearing, in mind… Edited January 22, 2023 by Freeforester 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 gonna be awhile. this is jason's container ship with mine and others on it. https://www.vesselfinder.com/vessels/details/9516428 probably mid february for me in tampa. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyss Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 https://www.vesselfinder.com/vessels/details/9367176 I think this is the container ship the v13 is on for Eriderz (based on Steve saying it was on Kuala Lumpur 159S and then finding the IMO ID for it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post KiwiMark Posted January 23, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 23, 2023 It looks to me like it is possible to brake fairly quickly on this big heavy wheel: At least the wheel looks capable, I'm not sure I could brake that well unless I practised a lot. 1 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post UPONIT Posted January 23, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) 15 hours ago, techyiam said: Below is Bob Yan's reply to the thread in question on Facebook. Noticed it's anecdotal with a lot of assumptions. Too bad he did not include details, and clear pictures of the fractured surfaces of the bolts, the recessed area in the slider, and the axle end. Those axle bolts have countersunk heads. Therefore, if the bolts are not sufficiently tight (allowing relative motion between the slider and the axle), the back and forth torqueing would at the same time cause the bolt head to pull on the bolt shrank, due to the taper shape of the head. But telltale signs should also be evident on the slider recessed area. If this is indeed the case, or something equivalent, then I think it is onerous upon Inmotion to provide the required tightening torque, or simply use stronger bolts. Isn't the sliders made of aluminum. It is hard to believe the bolts would under normal loading. If the installation needs to be this sensitive, stronger bolts should be used. It's cool of Mr. Yan to take the guy at his word and address his issue. Reply seems more than fair, considering... Here's an alternate option: Don't tear down your wheel (without all the information you think you will need, and/or the experience necessary to get a bolt into its approximate range of torque) and then blame InMotion. Lots of teardown videos, zero other instances of this happening. I've taken apart just about every mechanical device I've ever owned. And I've killed a couple doing it. People make dumb mistakes. Or forget a step. It's how we learn. BUT: Take. Responsibility. For. Your. Actions. Local example: @MrMonoWheel's SS teardown. He split a piece when re-assembling. Even though it appears to have a design flaw and questionable alloy, he 'fessed up to over-torque, and ordered a new part. If Leaperkim is smart, they will appreciate the honesty and give credence to what he had to say about the design and alloy. TLDR: Read @novazeus's reply which makes the same point in fewer words, and skip this one. Edited January 23, 2023 by UPONIT didn't read ahead b4 soapboxing 1 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UPONIT Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, techyiam said: Below is Bob Yan's reply to the thread in question on Facebook. Noticed it's anecdotal with a lot of assumptions. Too bad he did not include details, and clear pictures of the fractured surfaces of the bolts, the recessed area in the slider, and the axle end. Those axle bolts have countersunk heads. Therefore, if the bolts are not sufficiently tight (allowing relative motion between the slider and the axle), the back and forth torqueing would at the same time cause the bolt head to pull on the bolt shrank, due to the taper shape of the head. But telltale signs should also be evident on the slider recessed area. If this is indeed the case, or something equivalent, then I think it is onerous upon Inmotion to provide the required tightening torque, or simply use stronger bolts. Isn't the sliders made of aluminum. It is hard to believe the bolts would under normal loading. If the installation needs to be this sensitive, stronger bolts should be used. 14 hours ago, Tawpie said: I have to say that the hammer is a classic way to free bolts that have seized, usually due to the slight galvanic incompatibility of steel and aluminum. It's a trick that's in every mechanic's bag... unless the bolt is defective it's a non-problem. Hmmmmm. It IS a trick of the trade... but I've seen even Mil-spec fasteners die grisly deaths at the hands of strong, impatient dummies. 12 hours ago, novazeus said: i've used hammer and chisel before on bolts and nuts, but in this case, probably with loctite applied, heat would be my first choice. using an allen wrench and lighter. I was taught never to use a torch directly on a part unless you have no choice (and if you effed up a part with a hammer/chisel, you might get some unrequested time off). One of the tricks we used for loctite was: take a fat copper wire and put it in/on the screw head, then use a torch to heat the copper, which heats the screw without torching everything around it. (Or: soldering iron). Patience is a virtue (even though I have none). When you said allen wrench and lighter, I pictured what works if no copper wire or soldering iron: an allen wrench, which makes lots of contact with a socket head screw and transfers enough heat pretty quick. Don't know if that's what you meant, but good point either way... Edited January 23, 2023 by UPONIT 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UPONIT Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Can we put another overblown "concern" to bed now? 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquallLHeart Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 1 hour ago, UPONIT said: Can we put another overblown "concern" to bed now? what's the voltage? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 6 hours ago, UPONIT said: When you said allen wrench and lighter, I pictured what works if no copper wire or soldering iron: an allen wrench, which makes lots of contact with a socket head screw and transfers enough heat pretty quick. Don't know if that's what you meant, but good point either way... yeah, i have a brand new soldering iron, but it was 60' away in another container, plus it uses electricity, so typical me, i improvised with what i had, and it worked great. i took a standard allen wrench and got one end red hot with the lighter, and put it in the bolt, worked great! i'm a very disorganized mechanic, so improvising is what i do best. plus when u live in half of a high cube, ur life becomes improvisation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post dangasaur Posted January 23, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted January 23, 2023 I unboxed and aired up just 30 minutes ago and here are my first impressions. It's a big wheel and it feels 2x the size of the Shermax I rode last spring. It's also very narrow and doesn't feel like your hips and legs have to swing out to stand or ride it. It's extremely heavy but the handles on the front and back do make it pretty easy to maneuver around. Trolley handle feels super solid, way better than I expected. The quality is superb and even after all of the unboxing videos and media I was still in awe. Riding... oh boy. I just wanted to get a feel for it without pads so my plan was to take it around the cul-de-sac. For reference, my daily driver is a 100% stock V11 (no pads, no fancy pedals) that I can flick all around and feels like a natural extension of my body. On the V13, when I leaned forward to get a little speed I nearly fell off the front of the wheel. When I leaned back to brake, I nearly fell off the back. Caught me completely off guard. I had mixed success with low speed maneuvering but I think it's just going to require intentional practice. I have no plans to ride again until I can configure the pads. 12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 16 minutes ago, dangasaur said: I unboxed and aired up just 30 minutes ago and here are my first impressions. It's a big wheel and it feels 2x the size of the Shermax I rode last spring. It's also very narrow and doesn't feel like your hips and legs have to swing out to stand or ride it. It's extremely heavy but the handles on the front and back do make it pretty easy to maneuver around. Trolley handle feels super solid, way better than I expected. The quality is superb and even after all of the unboxing videos and media I was still in awe. Riding... oh boy. I just wanted to get a feel for it without pads so my plan was to take it around the cul-de-sac. For reference, my daily driver is a 100% stock V11 (no pads, no fancy pedals) that I can flick all around and feels like a natural extension of my body. On the V13, when I leaned forward to get a little speed I nearly fell off the front of the wheel. When I leaned back to brake, I nearly fell off the back. Caught me completely off guard. I had mixed success with low speed maneuvering but I think it's just going to require intentional practice. I have no plans to ride again until I can configure the pads. I would say pads is a must for big/heavy wheels.. Just for braking and acceleration alone. And "locking" yourself in pedals. At one point i even thought about getting pads for my 18xl. But latter i said nah.. Not worth for my style of riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, dangasaur said: On the V13, when I leaned forward to get a little speed I nearly fell off the front of the wheel. When I leaned back to brake, I nearly fell off the back. Caught me completely off guard. 😄 Right? It's real. It is hard to explain to someone who has never tried a big motor 22" wheel. For me, it was an Abrams. Without pads, there is no pedal sensitivity to speak of. Another thing is rotational inertia; it's a lot higher on the V13. That's why I don't reccomend someone to start on a V13. The rider never gets the chance to learn the basics when the rider is busy dealing with all this extra stuff that only come into play with big heavy wheels. Edited January 23, 2023 by techyiam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEC Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 4 hours ago, dangasaur said: It's also very narrow and doesn't feel like your hips and legs have to swing out to stand or ride it. That's what I like about Inmotion wheels, nice and slim allowing for very comfortable stance. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevebee Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 (edited) My first wheel is an Inmotion V11 and agree about the feel of the wheel, nice and slim . My main factors when deciding what wheel to get though was safety and build quality so in my mind a no brainer. Subsequent safety stories since buying wrt other brands has not changed my opinion. I’m only at the early stages of learning on the the V11 but at the present time the only wheel I’d look to upgrade to is the V13. Build quality, build in safety redundancy, IP ratings, etc.. I am continually amazed at customers acceptance of poor, risky build quality re safety on many of the other wheels. But then again I would never “push the bees” so maybe I’m not the target audience Edited January 24, 2023 by Stevebee 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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