meepmeepmayer

That's a 16X to me.

I need to stop posting in this thread when I'm tired

20 inch vs. 22 inch tire is going to be a notable difference. Let's not forget that. I can't see the V13 being as zippy (relatively) as the ShermaS just for this reason.

Aaah you're right. I confused it with the Commander Pro.

Yes, most likely. We don't know its weight, but it would be crazy if it exceeds the V13's insane 50kg. edit: It's 44kg/97lbs.

The V13 is 126V and the ShermaS 100.8V - V13 has exactly 20 25% more voltage. (30:24 = 5:4)

Yes! Yes!! Booooo!!!! No!!!! Yep!

Someone on Facebook said a week or two ago that the Monster Pro, RS, and EXN were discontinued. We'll see if they will be upgraded to 134V, or if Begode drops them and lives with their current suspension wheels (or announces new suspensionless wheels).

I took the liberty to make a new thread out of this, as it's not only S22-related. Hope you don't mind. - From the website https://www.kingsong.com/, it looks like there will be anniversary editions of the S22, 16X, and 16S. Not sure what that entails. I don't expect a totally new wheel announcement, but who knows. Also, the website still has some "lorem ipsum" placeholder text from the template.

At this point, the only thing potentially stopping me from buying this is the priceI hope it's good and not like the 2022 wheels till now.

Inmotion offers a quite big discount for the V13 if you preorder/buy the first batch as an "early bird" - $4000 vs. $4600 ($600 is 13% off the MSRP). This is a significant savings, and I believe it will tempt many people to overcome worries about possible issues with a newly released wheel (that costs a lot). Given how disastrous so many 2022 (and late 2021) wheel launches ended up being, do you think that the manufacturers should offer similar discounts for the first/early batchers in general? Or at least for the more expensive models? Picture someone wanting to buy the next King Song wheel after the S22 disaster. Pretty sure a lot of people would be put off by the history (or wait a year), but one possible way out is to offer a significant discount (10% or more) for those who buy the new model right away. Same for the Sherman-S. After the Abrams issues, do you think people will hold back on such a pricy wheel, and a preorder/early adopter discount can help? Or do people buy brand new EUC models at crazy prices ($4000+) anyways because they want to (and can afford it), and the manufacturers can afford to push out semi-finished wheels in eternity? Should first batch discounts be a general thing? Would they sell more wheels when people don't wait, because they know they would at least be compensated for having to deal with the latest crazy issue? Will people not wait anyways, so discounts won't do much? What do you think?

Those motor power cables are beefy!

Just bumping this so as many people as possible see this.

!!

I believe the problem is that the manufacturers don't tell anybody about these things. The distributors only learn of it from riders/the general EUC community or by disassembling a wheel themselves (like the EcoDrift guys do).

It's hard to answer many of these question precisely, because everything is so connected to each other - it's about the specific rider. So these are my views, don't take them as the only truth. Battery size (in Wh) is the only thing that counts here. Wheels with the same battery size will always have the same or very similar ranges. Some people find some wheels a bit more or a bit less efficient, but it's always hard to say if it's just their riding speed, the tire, or any other factor that is different - or if there truly is a difference between wheels with the same battery size. Motor power in general is a mostly meaningless number, and says exactly nothing about range. In my experience, there can easily be a 10% difference (or more!) between riding at around freezing (0°C, where you get less range)) and riding around at room temperature (20°C - 25°C, where you get "normal" range). Your riding speed has a huge influence on your range, because most of the energy usage is air resistance. E.g. at 50kph you will get 20km of range from a wheel that will go 40-50km at 25-30kph. So wind can play a big role, in effect it can act like you are riding faster. Not sure how big a role it plays in reality, unless you have constant headwind, for example. People don't tend to ride when it's really windy. A heavier rider will get a little less range, but it is hard to say how much of that is indeed the weight, and how much that the rider may be bigger and thus has more air resistance, which is the factor that matters. Light and small riders can get amazing ranges compared to "normal" riders. I assume very heavy riders will get quite bad ranges. Relatively little. If you have really big elevation changes (e.g. on a mountain ride), you tend to ride slower there, so it balances out. Other elevation changes aren't big enough to make a difference. In practice, mileage doesn't matter at all. So far I haven't heard of any rider who has less range on an older wheel. I'm around 10k km and get the exact same range I got when the EUC was new. Your changed riding behavior over time (maybe riding faster?) will drown out any battery degradation effects, if they exist. People talk about battery degradation, but nobody seems to have seen it. - In summary: The same battery size (in Wh) will give the same range, no matter the wheel model. Some wheels just make it easier or harder to go fast, and that will look like the wheels have different ranges, but with one or two specific exceptions it's all the same. You can't predict a range from a battery size, because it depends so much on the rider, with (average) speed being the most important factor. Really light riders can get amazing range, and really heavy riders may get disappointing range. Everyone in between... it's more or less the same. You'll get less range with cold or wind or whatnot, but it isn't so big of a difference that you can say much here. You'll always ride with some kind of reserve anyways, so this reserve will just be smaller or bigger on a given day. All manufacturers lie about ranges. Ignore any advertised numbers. Only Watthours (Wh) count. As you say you weigh 60kg, that is quite good (you're light!) if you are looking for range from any wheel. Other than that, a bigger battery (more Wh) = more range, and a smaller battery means less range, that's really about it. Anything else (besides extreme temperatures or rider weights) gets drowned out by the different riding behavior of different riders. You certainly cannot quantify these factors in a meaningful way, unless you do a fully controlled scientific study. (Which would still tell you: really only battery size matters, the rest is in God's hands.) If you absolutely definitely want a concrete number, I would say: 60kg, 18mph, 8°C = not too hot or cold - maybe 40km per 1000Wh? Maybe more. (For comparison: I get 50km of range going 30-35kph with 80kg rider and 1300Wh of battery.) This is just a rough guess, please don't see it as a guarantee Range strongly depends on how fast you are. I made a list of wheel battery sizes here, precisely so people can find the biggest battery wheel available to them. How much range that is depends on the rider.

I think that is a bug. I'm afraid the "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" advice above (delete browser data etc.) really is sound here. Or just try a different browser and see if it happens there, too.

Please post in English here. Google Translate: Here are 100kms traveled on my first wheel that I already like. I ride with elbow and forearm protectors, knee shins, gyroriderz gloves, ACERBIS flip helmet with sigma 700 headlamp and cosmo connected. Bodyboard leash attached to the bag. I cruise at 30/35kmh, but I still have trouble keeping a steady speed. Suddenly it is felt on the autonomy, 30kms and I go down to 65%! Scooter departures are finally managed at 80 % 😁. I didn't know any other wheels, impressive at first but I think it's not so high in the end, it's even top. I always leave the trolley out on its first position to hold it in case and to get started, it helps me a lot. Tight turns go very well, no problems with the tire but probably due to the pressure I put on it, 40psi. This tire is perfect for my use. He also received preventative slime. My 90kgs fully equipped are suspended by 330psi, and even if I don't do offroad for the moment, the rotten paths full of holes are erased without noise. But the suspension goes up to the end and you have to re-inflate every 30km by about 10psi... I'm going to dismantle the shell and inject a drop of silicone oil at 1000cps. And going up to 350psi would be better I think. Braking is incredible as long as you sit in a rearward position, it brakes better than my dualtron mini... I don't understand the incline speed setting, I tested 3kmh but couldn't get started so I left it on off. I try to always be relaxed, tilting my pelvis forward to accelerate rather than leaning over, on the advice of experienced pilots. I tighten the heels and calves well, it starts to hurt less. I am relaxing. On the other hand the bottom of my feet 😭😭😭, but I imagine it's the job that comes in. I received a lot of criticism and warnings about starting on this wheel, but the choice was made naturally according to my use and in the end I have absolutely no regrets! It is perfect for my daily trips and my leisure use. good ride

This question is not very productive. Cutouts on both wheels were specific issues, these specifics are what you should concern you with. A bad board on the V12 HS (plus maybe some firmware issues that affected the V12 HT too) and self-destructing motors on some T4's. In general, an older wheel that is on the market long enough will have its teething issues worked out. So if you want to be safe, don't buy the newly released models, but wait half a year (or however long it takes before a fix is live). V12 HS's should be good now if you get a recent production batch and not some old stock with an old board. The T4 should be good as soon as you assuredly get a motor where they fixed whatever motor production problem they had. I don't think you can reasonably rate wheels by reliability after you exclude specific issues they had and which are over now. Probably more about good or bad luck whether you will ever have a problem than which wheel model you happen to have. The chances of failure are really really small with any wheel then.

They never fixed the cutout issues?

$2400 is a nice price for a 2700Wh wheel! This is how it should always be.

You can send messages now.

Please post in English here. Google Translate:

You either unlock the wheel by plugging in the charger, or by this method (as posted above). Not sure which it is.