meepmeepmayer

This wheel with 3330Wh or more would be perfect!

Guys, this is simply Veteran's first "16 inch" wheel, after their "18/20 inchers" (Sherman and Sherman Max, 14 inch rim) and "22 inch" (Abrams, 17 inch rim) wheels. They are just more honest about the tire size, which has always been nearly 18 inches for a 3 inch wide tire on a 12 inch rim ("16 inch wheel").

The video makes it look really nice! Same price as the Master is fair. If only the battery was 3330Wh or bigger...

I thought "windings" were the coils made from the wires, one corresponding to each magnet (or some other fixed ratio). So you can still have more or less metal per winding, and more or less space between windings. Maybe I'm wrong about the terminology. I meant the number of coils (is there a better word?). Anyways, in practice the manufacturers seem to order a standard motor, but the number of magnets and their width seems to be customizable. They will know more or less what properties they get from such a motor (maybe less, given how the first C40 seems to have been a bust). I don't think it's an exact science for them either.

You already got your answer, but I want to expand: More windings/magnets, stronger magnets, stronger windings (more copper per winding) each gives more torque at the cost of a lowered max speed due to a higher back-EMF (lower Kv parameter). At least that's how I always understood it. It's all very visual, not much ambiguity in my book. More stuff that resists = it kills your max speed, but you can grab onto it for torque. The HT/C38 motors literally have stronger (bigger) magnets (38mm wide) than the HS/C30 motors (30mm wide magnets). Probably more windings, too, I don't know, but you can count in the EcoDrift disassembly pictures if you want. I'm not sure if the motors are built differently in how much copper a winding gets. (I'm still not an electrical engineer so I might be completely wrong.)

This might be great. 16 inch, suspension, 134V, decent battery size, looks are fine - what's not to like! It's funny though: Veteran shows or announces a new wheel. Wait a week, or two at most. Here is the Begode equivalent! Though they obviously copied from the V13 as well. Anyways, no complaint from my side. More wheels are good. And V14! (No confirmation, but rumored).

I don't think this should be excused. Begode are just not adapting their chargers to a slightly higher voltage so the reverse diodes (that seem to be the problem, see the Youtube comments on Marty's video) in the charge control board are neutralised and the battery gets the full voltage. I recall the same problem when they introduced the reverse diodes on ewheels's request (back in... MSX times?). It's just sloppy. We got perfectly good 4.2V charging 5 years ago, why should this suddenly be too much to ask for?! Miles of range lost, for what exactly? Also, why is the stupid charge control board even there? Marty bypassed it and fully charged the batteries, which have their own BMS anyways. Older wheels didn't need that charge control board. Is it literally just for some reverse diodes and nothing else?

Huh?

Also, apparently the V13 reduces the allowed max speed when the pedals are set to soft. Make the pedals harder to (maybe) get higher top speed options. Worth trying to see if it changes anything.

Nice! This is essentially the MCM6 - 14 incher with 3 inch wide tire = 15 incher. I also thought it was mten4-sized before looking at the video. It's much bigger. The waterproofing is awesome! For all people wondering whether they trust Begode on this - the point isn't to ride through and under water. The point is you never have to worry about riding in the rain and "normal" wet conditons if they advertise it as submergible and build it like that. The waterproofing focus bodes very well for future "big" Begodes.

Please no overly offtopic discussions about suspension vs. no suspension or wheel weights here. Everyone keep this about this particular wheel please.

This has been moved to its own topic. It's nice that you looked for a place to put this, but this makes more sense on its own.

Probably the Sherman-S was the "This can't go wrong like the Abrams, or we are broke" model and thus they just used their existing 100V expertise to be safe. It's just a Shermax with suspension. Now with the future wheels (like this Patton) they can go with the long-planned higher voltage. I say long-planned because apparently everyone was surprised by Begode going 134V instead of the expected 126V next step that everyone else has done.

Maybe it's in transport mode? Not sure if this thread is still up-to-date:

Both are great. Which one do you want? Usually there's a favorite in your head. Pick that one! My first (and personal) instinct was "Sherman-S!" because I like range... but for a 9km commute, the S22 might be less cumbersome than that 45kg beast. And it's significantly cheaper. So the S22 seems the sensible choice (just my opinion, don't let me get in the way of "But I kind of want the Sherman-S!" if that is the case.)

The overlap between competent people and people who wear a lab coat (wow, real scientist!) for making an online video of writing on a blackboard (wow, real lecture!) tends to be very small

The difference is the range (and weight of course), torque depends on the wheel geometry and firmware and those don't change between the two battery variants (except maybe you feel the different weight distributions a little bit). This is "Almost new, small battery" vs. "Used a lot, big battery". What is the state of the 8500-mile wheel? Could be anything from "beat up and crooked" to "looks like new". Miles alone aren't necessarily a bad thing, it's the mechanical wear and tear (which you can more or less see right away) that counts. I'd make my decision based on the state of the 2700Wh wheel (and the price of course).

Not available for me in Germany. What are the prices? Essentially this might be a cool alternative to the Tesla (T3) - same battery and voltage.

Consider a used, newer wheel (from an active manufacturer), too. You may get more bang for the buck this way. You can alwas go to out private sales forum here and ask something like "Who has something to sell for $X or less in the Detroit area" or likewise, and see what comes up then. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/24-private-sales-secondhand/

Heyo, I edited the title so people are warned right away. Thanks for the follow-up. If prices are really that low, it must be a scam site truly, and not just the manufacturer dissing unofficial but legitimate sellers.

Very new users cannot edit their posts (spam/abuse prevention, sorry), you will be able to edit soon. I changed the title

I guess this issue is also over for the T4 as well? Thread unpinned.

Oh boy, that "We removed some caps from the board because we found out afterwards that there is no space for them" is classic Begode. (From the EcoDrift disassembly article) Will probabably not matter tough. But proves they still don't really plan ahead, or plan the wheel in its entirety.

I voted for "dead controller" because I don't trust the manufacturers to implement limits properly. It's probably less likely to fry a board than some part of a limit failing - like a too-weak fuse or a wheel that dumps you too early just to be safe - so what seems safer might be less safe. I'd rather have as few extra parts as possible which I need to trust to work properly. Also, hardware frying should not really happen spontaneously. It's from prolonged extreme stress. So you can have some temperature warning if you have the right sensors, which give you a few seconds for the wheel to warn you. Looking at the latest fried Master Pro, forcing it uphill, the motor fried (wow!) before the board. So you can have beautifully strong mosfets/boards (credit to Begode where credit is due) and, if you add temperature sensors in the right places (motor), hopefully a bit of a warning time for overheating problems. These "My wheel hit a tiny bump and died on the spot" reports tend to be from wheels with too-weak mosfets/boards in the first place, something that is easily fixable. Give me reliable hardware instead of mitigating mediocre hardware with mediocre workarounds for supposed safety (not so sure about that). Maybe it's not as black and white, and some safety limits make very much sense and can be implemented safely and reliably. But in doubt I'd choose to keep everything simple.

Thread unpinned. I believe this issue is over. Very many thanks to everyone who contributed their information!