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EUC

Found 18 results

  1. TLDR Sherman Max motor has a hole at the top of its axle for the wires to get in. There is no sealant to plug this hole, which is directly exposed to the motor and tire turning and facing up. Dirt, sand, water is been found to get in the motor on a fairly new wheel. This will lead to noise, corrosion, and potential failure of the motor over time. Issue discovery Today I was helping a friend swap tire on his ~1.5 month old Sherman Max. After removing the original tire, we noticed that there was a random grinding sound when turning the motor. So we decided to open the motor to check. Everything looked good, I had no idea why there would be an issue. Picture of the pedal hanger on the motor wire harness side. This sealant application looks good, right? However after removing the other side cover, we started to see a bunch of sand all over the place, as you can see in the following pictures. Sand on the magnets Agglomerated sand on the other side cover with on the side of the motor wire harness And we had no clue where this sand could come from: there was sealant around the wire harness, sealant between the rim and the side covers: no way for anything to come in. This is where we decided to remove the remaining pedal hanger, and that's what we saw: Behind the pedal hanger, an chunk of fine sand and dirt around the bearing seal and axle hole Pedal hanger removed, see where the sealant ends and how the dirt pools at the top of the axle. To make things worse, the hole in the axle is facing upwards. This design makes this wire hole a funnel into the motor for any dirt, debit, sand, water, salt.. you get the point. All the things you don't want inside the motor can just fall in. A few more pictures: Bearing and cover from the wire harness side, you can the most dirt next to where the hole was. If you don't know what you're looking at, this was inside the motor. same as close up Detailed view of the motor harness entrance point into the motor State of both bearings How to fix existing wheels Most likely, everyone with a Sherman Max already ridden must: Drop the motor from the inner shell Remove the pedal hanger on the wire harness side to inspect how much dirt is around the hole. In order to remove this pedal hanger, you will need to cut the existing silicon, which might be useless. Clean the area, by vacuuming if possible. Avoid using compressed air or anything which could push dirt into the bearing. Very little is enough to destroy the bearing. Once the area is clean enough, fill any gap between the whole and wire harness with plenty of silicon. However, don't apply so much silicon that it would end up in the bearing or interacting with the bearing seal. I recommend using an alkoxy silicone which won't corrode metal to avoid damage to the bearing and motor. Make sure that the hole is plugged by the sealant, from the axle up to the inner race of the bearing Re-assemble while making sure that the sealant stays in place Questions and observations As usual, the issue was already observed by Ecodrift during their Sherman Max teardown. The Abrams also lacks sealant in the same area, as seen on Ecodrift's Abrams teardown. It is possible that some wheels have enough silicon applied to seal the hole in the axle. However it is unlikely, since adding more silicon using the same method is likely to smear the whole area, bearing and bearing seal, making a huge mess instead of providing the result desired. Are some wheels siliconed correctly out of the factory? (No indication so far.) Changes required during assembly My best guess would be to apply silicon in the area which is exposed to the element directly. The current application is adding sealant on the clean side (inside of the wheel) and none on the dirty side (wheel well & tire) which does absolutely nothing to protect the motor from contaminants. Silicon should still be applied where it is now in order to reduce stress on the harness due to shocks and vibrations. Potential approach to explore for resellers before shipping wheels to customers It might work to try to inject silicon into the desired hole without removing the motor from the shell, which would dramatically simplify the operation. For this, you would need to: Open the side panel Break and remove the useless sealant around the wire harness Push a small tube (almost like a needle) around the wire harness, in order to reach the motor axle hole. In terms of depth, go just a little beyond the beginning of the inner race of the bearing Inject silicon there. Repeat 3 times, for each remaining corner of the square hole. Unfortunately, this approach won't work for wheels which have already been ridden since the whole in the axle must be clean for successful sealant application. A downside of this approach is that it won't be possible to confirm visually if the application was successful or not, making it error prone. What if you can't service your wheel / can't get it serviced I would highly recommend to avoid riding the wheel altogether until this hole is sealed. If you must, try at least to avoid any dirty, dusty or wet conditions. I would encourage to ask your dealer about this, feel free to refer to this post as description. To be clear: there isn't supposed to be an open hole into the motor. Every other electric motor is sealed. I think it's a defect and not acceptable on a type of vehicle used outdoors and will lead to all sort of potentially issues issues after winter, in wet locations and for off-road riders. In terms of safety I don't want to think about what will happen when salt water gets sprayed on the hall sensor.
  2. So mid-ride today, wheel all of a sudden decides to have a single quick "hitch" when applying quick hard-ish bursts (mild-hard to hard-hard), either accelerating or braking. So routine moderate-hard carving would cause it, anytime I would gas or brake quickly not really leaning in that hard. And it's not the type of pressure I'm applying that would even come close to a cut-out. So I'm not pushing it gas-wise when describing this. And the hitch is a single quick sound and feel, that doesn't effect performance other than it makes me nervous, and that it might be a precursor of a bigger problem..? It feels like the wheel gives out for a fraction of a second initially but never fails, again gassing or braking. The way it came on was this. Had ridden 30 minutes, then had to pause for 30 mins while an oar boat had to pass through the canal. Chopped it up with a local fisherman on the pier getting drunk and sunburnt, with the wheel powered on the whole time. Then proceeded to roll out, 10 minutes later the blacktop started to have some deeper cracks in it, and I popped a few of them and then a couple speed bumps nothing serious. Then the issue seemed to start around that time, but it may have been right before that area where I might've just mistook the issue as rolling over some random small rocks or pebbles idk. Possible causes. My rider weight is 220 with gear, and the last few rides I'd been playing with medium-mode. I've always used hard mode except on trails, but I'm on blacktop 80% of the time anyways. Lately, been using medium for a more comfortable and smoother ride. The other cause of this might be that I've been practicing a lot over the last couple months trying to rock back and forth in a tighter and tighter area and for longer periods of time, can rock non-stop now YAY.. Any ideas on what this could be? And could my practicing rocking back and forth a lot lately have caused this? Or is it more to do with hitting cracks and small potholes at my weight? It's a 1yr old wheel without a tremendous amount of miles on it, and feel I've treated it good for the most part. Please help..
  3. I broke the axle on my 18s. This is the older model, NOT the S18. If anyone out there has a working motor or knows where to get one I'd love to know. Singsong discontinued these a couple years ago and Im not finding them anywhere online. This wheel is still running strong and it would be great to revive it. Im in Denver, Colorado
  4. Broke the axle on my old 18S and would love to revive it. Anyone out there with spare Id love to chat. This is for 18S NOT S18.
  5. I recently got a little mud on my s18, hosed it off, and now it’s not working. When I turn it on, the app displays a motor error along with a hall sensor error. The wheel doesn’t balance when I begin moving it and occasionally makes jerky corrections. I dried it out for a few days (which worked last time the wheel got a bit water logged), checked the control board, and opened the hall sensor cable cover. No visible signs of any issues. I even tried unplugging the control board and clearing the capacitors by pressing the power button. Any ideas on other things I should try? Images of the control board and app are here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nsrk56xo4z7z97s/AAAeM-2TPPi3fowz-_22gIMya?dl=0
  6. Hello my Brothers. As title say I want to buy Gotway RS but right now not sure which one. Money isnt problem, just want to hear your seuggestions since you guys are experts. I want to buy this Gotway RS . Is that worth money? Should I look for less expensive one? Any suggestion is welcome. Thank you!
  7. Hello everyone, my control Board has died after these circumstances: 1. Rider weighing about 90 kg. 2. Slope upward about 40 degrees. 3. A lot of mud. 4. The v11 went up with the pads (without the pads it would not have been possible to go up as much and maybe nothing would have happened). 5. The legs of the capacitors melted with the consequent cut off. 6. The control board is changed and the motor does not balance. 7. Solution, do a test with the official app and when it asks you about the motor, you have to say that you do want to do a specific test for it and there you have to put the wheel completely in HORIZONTAL on the ground and do the test. 8. The motor already balances!! A geeting.
  8. Have anyone changed motor on Inmotion V11 ? Im forced to do it and Im not happy. In fact Im angry. My V11 sounds like shit, the bearings are producing too much friction. I took the wheel for a ride in the rain, since that day the sound is terrible. I love my V11 I use it for commuting on a daily basis, Im clumsy and not technical. I really believev Inmotion should take back bad wheels and give us new ones. This bloody project is gonna take me at least 12 hours Im told. As always Marty is very helpfull, there is a youtube video on how to do this. Also Inmotion have one and mr Wrongway have a video of how not to do it. This makes me bloody nervous and a litytle angry too. Bad bearing does that really mean I should work for inmotion for free in like 12 hours or so, or I should send my wheel back and not have a wheel for 6 weeks. Also the project is dangerous as seen here by Marty: Inmotion do the decent thing . The first batches had many errors send me a new wheel and stop this nonsense. Do the decent thing. Dont leave dangerous and difficult repairs to me .. bloody well do it yourself. PS: I dont need Negativity from simple minded keyboard warriors, I need help from clever tech people. Here wrongway demonstrates dissolved metal making a fix bloody impossible: Its not good enough - Inmotion this is bollocks.
  9. My ancient sbuv3, very similar/same motor as solowheel, is (increasingly) misaligned, it balances at a slightly oblique vertical axis. Riding is uncomfortable therefore, even a little unstable, when compared to another EUC of the same make/model, which goes fine. Is there a mechanical adjustment inside the motor? Which side of the motor should I open? Do you have photos showing the inside? I suspect a loosened PCB. Or an accelerometer IC is subject to aging. I'm read that there are people who know this EUC motor: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13393-how-to-remove-pedalscranks-access-motor-on-solowheel-xtreme/ Thanks for any advice, Paul
  10. I purchased an ES2 and then added the supplemental battery. It was working properly on a daily basis, but the last time I turned it on the motor the accelerator stopped working correctly. Specifically, it feels likeit's trying to repeatedly apply the electronic brake rather than applying power to the motor. When I try to get the scooter up to speed to enable the accelerator, the speedometer shows incorrect, high numbers. There was very briefly an error code 18 flashing on the dashboard right when the problem started. I get the feeling the answer here is going to be, "look for a blow fuse and then replace some component", but I have no idea where to start and I don't want to further damage it. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
  11. I'm parting out my MSX. Selling whatever I can get for it. Shipping is possible but only confimed Paypal addresses. Parts: MSX Pedals (left and right) 80usd Motherboard (early batch) 100usd Motherboard (latest Aug 8 2019) 150usd Inner casings (both sides, has some damage, request pics) 60usd Outer Side Panels (both sides, 60 usd) Handle (40usd, bars and the handle itself) MSX motor Wheel (includes non working motor, pedal arms, axel)- 50usd. (the motor might be able to be fixed, no promises) Brand New BMS 84v. (You can extend the range of your battery, theres a few riders who have 84v that have beyond 1600wh in battery by adding it into the empty space) Sold: Wiring/Lighting for all 30usd Thank you PS: Prices are negotiable, within reason.
  12. Hello, My V10F has stopped completely working after a forward adjustment. It basically results completely disconnected from motor (does not self balance vertically after you turn it on). Things I have tried: Factory reset Clear cash Do again forward adjustment Multiple times on and off Any help would be highly appreciated please. It seems I am completely unfortunate with me wheel, or I am not able completely to understand the app. Thanks a lot
  13. Does anyone have a working msx motor they want to sell? thank you
  14. Hi all, I recently bought a used Solowheel Xtreme. Rode it for about 20 minutes, then sparks came out of it and it stopped running. Took it apart to find that the metal snapped where one of the pedals (crank arm) is supposed to attach to the axle. The main thick cable (I assume to motor cable) also got cut since it goes through the crank arm. I am confident I can rewire the thick cable, but to do that it seems I have to get inside the motor. To get inside the motor, I would probably either have to remove the crank that is still attached to the axle, or possibly remove the material on the side of the wheel. Anyone know how to do this? Also, anyone know of a source for a new axle/crank assembly? It looks like the Solowheel Xtreme is not manufactured any longer. Attaching photos of what the damage looks like.
  15. Most of the builds I have seen on here use the microworks 14" 500w hub motor, but I can't seem to find that model anymore. Does anybody have a good recommendation for a similar are lower-powered motor for a build.
  16. Hi guys, I've just experienced my second shut off last week. I started the day full charged. Rode about 10miles (16km). Then I put the EUC on charge only for about 15min.(usually 99% of time I let it change completely). After that I went ridding for 1.5 miles (2.5km). I stopped for 30 min. Rode again for 1 mile(1.6km) when I passed over a small 2 inch(5cm) sidewalk, I went for another 3 feet(1m), I heard a bip and it shut off. The EUC just shut off no beeping on the ground. Luckily my speed was about 3-4mile/h (5-8km/h) when it happened. I turned the EUC back on and it worked, voltage was around 55. I still ride it, I don't feel any difference in behavior, it's running normal. But I don't feel save anymore. I will attach below my black box data the status highlighted in yellow shows the moment when the cut off occurred. I have had a motor replacement before at ~80 hours in. Since then I can see: ??(Controller) 218h 17m 21s 3 861 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ861 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 386h 0m 39s 3 5506 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ5506 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ997 - this is where I experienced the shut off and lots of 17 code - which is an abnormal behavior of the motor but may be as a warning and doesn't trigger a shut off like 3s do ? "3" seems to be related with the Motor; What 861, 5506, 997 mean? Translated some of the last black box logs, the occurring frequency is quite often : ??(Controller) 472h 55m 44s 17 11620 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 45, and the abnormal condition is 6->4 ??(Controller) 482h 0m 0s 17 11841 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 4->1 ??(Controller) 482h 3m 18s 17 11796 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 1->4 ??(Controller) 482h 55m 19s 17 11875 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 6->3 ??(Controller) 485h 21m 53s 17 11825 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 3->1 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1 exception, the number of exceptions is 997 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 17 12128 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 6->0 ??(Controller) 498h 34m 22s 17 12050 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 1->2 ??(Controller) 505h 2m 5s 17 12065 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->1 ??(Controller) 519h 33m 6s 17 12068 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->4 Did anyone experienced this? Thanks everybody for reading this! Chris BlackData_2018-08-24-18-24-24_Fomart.csv
  17. Hello everyone, After 2500 km with my S2 and a flat tire, I decided to do some work on my S2 like deep cleaning, new paint, try to remove all the damm anti poncture traces and grease the bearings. I would like to know if there's specials things to know before opening the motor. The wheel is IP54 so I'm wondering if there's spi joints to change or anythings special to know before opening it ☺️ Thanks
  18. Hi Everybody, Has anybody had a broken axle? How did you fix it? i recently broke mine and do not really want to buy a new motor.
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