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Found 13 results

  1. Hi guys, I've just experienced my second shut off last week. I started the day full charged. Rode about 10miles (16km). Then I put the EUC on charge only for about 15min.(usually 99% of time I let it change completely). After that I went ridding for 1.5 miles (2.5km). I stopped for 30 min. Rode again for 1 mile(1.6km) when I passed over a small 2 inch(5cm) sidewalk, I went for another 3 feet(1m), I heard a bip and it shut off. The EUC just shut off no beeping on the ground. Luckily my speed was about 3-4mile/h (5-8km/h) when it happened. I turned the EUC back on and it worked, voltage was around 55. I still ride it, I don't feel any difference in behavior, it's running normal. But I don't feel save anymore. I will attach below my black box data the status highlighted in yellow shows the moment when the cut off occurred. I have had a motor replacement before at ~80 hours in. Since then I can see: ??(Controller) 218h 17m 21s 3 861 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ861 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 386h 0m 39s 3 5506 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ5506 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ997 - this is where I experienced the shut off and lots of 17 code - which is an abnormal behavior of the motor but may be as a warning and doesn't trigger a shut off like 3s do ? "3" seems to be related with the Motor; What 861, 5506, 997 mean? Translated some of the last black box logs, the occurring frequency is quite often : ??(Controller) 472h 55m 44s 17 11620 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 45, and the abnormal condition is 6->4 ??(Controller) 482h 0m 0s 17 11841 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 4->1 ??(Controller) 482h 3m 18s 17 11796 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 1->4 ??(Controller) 482h 55m 19s 17 11875 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 6->3 ??(Controller) 485h 21m 53s 17 11825 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 3->1 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1 exception, the number of exceptions is 997 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 17 12128 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 6->0 ??(Controller) 498h 34m 22s 17 12050 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 1->2 ??(Controller) 505h 2m 5s 17 12065 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->1 ??(Controller) 519h 33m 6s 17 12068 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->4 Did anyone experienced this? Thanks everybody for reading this! Chris BlackData_2018-08-24-18-24-24_Fomart.csv
  2. Hello, My V10F has stopped completely working after a forward adjustment. It basically results completely disconnected from motor (does not self balance vertically after you turn it on). Things I have tried: Factory reset Clear cash Do again forward adjustment Multiple times on and off Any help would be highly appreciated please. It seems I am completely unfortunate with me wheel, or I am not able completely to understand the app. Thanks a lot
  3. Most of the builds I have seen on here use the microworks 14" 500w hub motor, but I can't seem to find that model anymore. Does anybody have a good recommendation for a similar are lower-powered motor for a build.
  4. Hello everyone, After 2500 km with my S2 and a flat tire, I decided to do some work on my S2 like deep cleaning, new paint, try to remove all the damm anti poncture traces and grease the bearings. I would like to know if there's specials things to know before opening the motor. The wheel is IP54 so I'm wondering if there's spi joints to change or anythings special to know before opening it ☺️ Thanks
  5. tusk123

    Broken Motor Axle

    Hi Everybody, Has anybody had a broken axle? How did you fix it? i recently broke mine and do not really want to buy a new motor.
  6. So we all know KS14C has a bit of a trouble with the axle cracking. The first time it happened to me I went trough half a year long warranty process and apart from the time it cost me 290 USD as apart from the motor itself I needed new board (old one is not compatible with the new motors) and I also wanted new shell and I had to pay the shipping and taxes. I thought that with new type of motor they would have solved the issue but no... after 1400 km according to the app my axle broke again! This is how it looks from outside when your axle breaks: detail after removing the pedals: This time I was so careful! I didn't jump the curbs I had barely any falls... but maybe it was caused by not using the spacers that come between the pedal holders and motor. I didn't use them because the ones from the old motor were not compatible with the new one and I didn't receive new one with the new motor. Tina said to proceed without them but I think that was the reason why the axle broke so soon because maybe I put them a bit further apart or something like that. Anyway I didn't want to pay another hefty sum for a new motor to have it broken in few months again and I actually had a new 500W KS motor on hand since they sent it to me by mistake at first instead of the 800W one. First I tried whether it will work with my board meant for 800W motor. No surprise, it doesn't . But the axle is the same so I decided to gut the never used motor to get mine going again. So I took both motors apart. And this is how i looks: The way the wire are connected to the windings Detail of the axle: Detail of the hall effect sensor: To remove the axle you need access to a hydraulic press. I tried to hammer the axle out but had no success, I only damaged the axle even more. I study a technical university so I just went to the building of mechanical engineering and after few minutes I had time setup when I could come to use the press. In the end the people there just did it for me because of safety concerns. The press ( very old made in now nonexistent country of Czechoslovakia :D) Video of the actual removal: https://goo.gl/photos/nJ5HVcn3ogqr8ECB6 Detached axle: To remove the axle I had to remove the cabling first and of course the cabling got damaged while being pulled trough the axle. The original phase wires were 1,22mm2 with plastic insulation the hall sensor wire were 0,22mm2 also with plastic insulation. The replacement cables I used were 1,5mm2 and 0,25mm2 with silicon insulation. So potentially higher quality but they were also thicker so now sheath to put them all together could fit in the axle so i kept them separate. Also as you can see they didn't have the right colors which caused me some trouble later on when connecting to the control board. I had them labeled but the tags fell while I was pulling the cables through the motor cover So when finishing up there was a lot of experimenting with the right order. I knew which wires were for hall sensors and which for phases from thickness and I knew which wires were the power for the hall sensors because these were the only ones with the correct color. But I still had two groups of 3 wires each. That gives me 36 combinations. Anyone who ever connected the wires wrong knows how crazy the unicycle acts if you do that :/ Luckily it only took me 8 tries! Those were some horrible couple minutes! To pull the cables through the axle I used the same method as @Rehab1 - solder them all together and use single wire to pull the trough. Thanks for inspiration! Unfortunately some of the hall sensors got damaged during the axle removal so I had to change them too. The original sensors were MT4451-A (TO-92 package) as @esaj helped me discover from the markings. I could not get these in Czechia so I used TLE4935L instead as I have already used them once on different unicycle and they worked. Damaged hall effect sensor: And here is finally the finished motor with new wiring and hall sensors: After putting everything together the unicycle works! But there are some problems. It does wobble. When I ride it swings back and forth a little. It it pronounced way more while riding forwards then by riding the unicycle the wrong way with the brake light forward. Anyone has any ideas what could cause this? Here is a video of this https://goo.gl/photos/WfKaDb1iGzgadY1p6 Also the free spin maximum speed is different in each direction it is 40,6 km/h in forward (more wobbly direction) and 38,5 km/h in backwards (more stable direction). So IDK is this some mechanical problem ? the bearing perhaps? I used the motor covers from the 500W as the bearings spin much better. Could this be the cause? They seemed the same otherwise and they fit with no problem. Problem with the board maybe? During the experimenting with the right wire order combinations some nasty thing were most likely happening to the board..:/ I will see how it progresses but please if someone knows what it could be let me know I would hate going trough all this trouble to have the unicycle break down again soon after. So in total this cost me about 20 USD. 10 USD for the beers I bought the people who helped me with the press and 10 USD for the wires and hall sensors. It would cost more if I had to have the axle machined. PS. There will be part two with the older motor from the first time my axle broke and new machined axle for that
  7. Have a brand new motor (unridable) that I replaced. Came defective from the factory so was sent a replacement. Any use for the old one? Anything cool I can do with it or parts I can salvage out of it? Haven't opened it up yet, but just figured it was a shame to toss it. Will at least open it and take a look before I do trash it. Figured you all might have some experience in the area. There has got to be some cool magnets in there if nothing else. Wouldn't think anyone would have much need for it since it needs repair and my impression is that these motors don't really wear out. Correct me if I'm wrong. A
  8. alitos

    Gotway Pcb in a Ips motor

    I have an IPS 101 with the PCB damaged, Is possible put some Gotway pcb in a IPS 16" wheel?
  9. I wonder if anyone has any experience with these cheap E-bike motor and controller testers: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Portable-24V-36V-48V-60V-Electro-Car-E-bike-Brushless-Motor-Tester-24V-to-60V/32492995484.html It so cheap that I might order one and see if it could be (at least partially) used for EUC diagnostic. Maybe some modification would allow it to be used fully with higher voltages? @esaj @Chriull or other "resident" tinkerers any ideas?
  10. Hello world, I know its a such huge trouble when your wheels broke down. However everything can be fixed. Check out our site at http://www.superwheels.ch/occasionen We have all the thins you need for your wheels. From hoverboard, EU, E-sccoter batterie, motor, tire, handle, to even chargers. Don't be hesitate to ask us any questions http://www.superwheels.ch
  11. As mentioned in the topictitle, they are banning anything that has a motor even electric ones. In HK they have sidewalks but, still.. everything bad stated from somewhere.. :-/ Your opinions on this, and the affects it may have on the global market? Source : Wheels officially banned in Hong Kong. notice (no segway hoverboard & unicycle) eng.pdf
  12. What is the max temperature a Ninebot One e+ can operate at. I think I was getting an over heating warning. I was beeping and flashing red lights on the lower half. I was practicing going back ward. So lot of fast stops. Not much backward yet. when I finally got the App sync to the Ninebot One e+ n20 Firmware 1.2.7, which was about four minutes after stopping, it read 155F/68C..After about five or six minutes it went green and stopped beeping. I tried turning it off on several time at first sign of beeping.Hoping to stop the beeping but it did not stop it. 20 minutes later happed again. I started riding at about 105F/40.6C then started to beep at 158.4F/70.2C about ten minutes later. I am at about 42% charge on the battery
  13. So my legway needed repair as it wasn't starting So i ordered a new controller from aliexpress Connected it and was excited but no Legway is not starting I tried calibrating by shorting the two points It only beeps And then a never ending long beep I noticed one thing when connect the 3 phase wires with transparent green caps The motor doesnt rotate freely with or without battery When i remove that the rotor moves freely manually The beep never ends Also two days back sane connections legway had stabilized but didnt move when tilted and stopped again immediately and since then only beeps This is the video showing problem https://youtu.be/NG95tXu8BFc P.S This isn't the original legway motherboard.i dont even know the hall wires connections But one good electronics person told me the red and black are proper And i did try combinations for other 3 Pls help PLS SEE THE VIDEO AND HELP ASAP
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