Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh

[WILSONEUC]

1 minute ago, Paradox said:

5 pins is the 100v Sherman charger.  You brought the wrong charger to work.

I cant believe i did that............first time mixing up the chargers. I had to look at my unboxing ....  thanks....!! going have to label these

[DjPanJan]

@WILSONEUC @Paradox

Hapend me same fail :

I have a hanging shelf at home with chargers on it.
The shelf has drilled holes for the charger cables, and I stupidly plugged the charger from the MTEN4 into the patton and was absolutely nervous that it couldn't be stuffed in there!
(by the way, putting a charger in the patton is pure evil for people with thick fingers like me)

[davewood1982]

My patton charger isn't black its  silver

[Uras]

On 10/19/2023 at 7:45 PM, Critzlez said:

I highly doubt this is a huge problem. There are 8 screws to distribute the force too. We would have heard problems about this already

 

I did some calculations for the force requirement to strip the threads on a male 6061 bolt, which I assume is similar to the female aluminum threads on the pedal bracket. https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/force_required_strip_15799.htm. 900 lbs just for one thread to break. Because your weight is distributed to 8 bolts, you'll need 900 * 8 = 7200 pounds of force to rip it straight out. Not sure how to calculate the force applied to the threads by your weight torquing on the pedal bracket, but I doubt it's 7200 lbs. To double check, The aluminum suspension clamp strips at like 12nm of force guestimating, which the clamp force where the threads strip is around 900 lbs (https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/torque_calc.htm). Someone definitely double check my math please

Yeah, that doesn't impress me, sorry. You say 8 bolts, but it's 4 bolts. Those bolt holes are going to elongate; first the bottom two, then the top two. If I consider the pedal shafts on my 16x, even with all the support they have, they are still slightly bent. I imagine they bend where the pedal and pedal mounts meet. Bet your boots that the shaft holes at the edges of those mounts and pedals are elongated. That doesn't really matter that much because there's still a lot of aluminium around those holes and lots of support along the length of that shaft, and no threads to worry about or depend on.

I just don't understand the design of this. It would be so easy to have through bolts - even better still (ideally as well), a ledge. Imagine a square faced ledge from one surface fitting snugly into the opposite surface. 

[Critzlez]

1 hour ago, Uras said:

Yeah, that doesn't impress me, sorry. You say 8 bolts, but it's 4 bolts. Those bolt holes are going to elongate; first the bottom two, then the top two. If I consider the pedal shafts on my 16x, even with all the support they have, they are still slightly bent. I imagine they bend where the pedal and pedal mounts meet. Bet your boots that the shaft holes at the edges of those mounts and pedals are elongated. That doesn't really matter that much because there's still a lot of aluminium around those holes and lots of support along the length of that shaft, and no threads to worry about or depend on.

I just don't understand the design of this. It would be so easy to have through bolts - even better still (ideally as well), a ledge. Imagine a square faced ledge from one surface fitting snugly into the opposite surface. 

I have the Patton, it's 8 bolts. But I haven't ever heard of this being an issue in any euc at all, so I wouldn't sweat at all really. I'm sure you're overthinking this too much. Begode extreme, commander mini, the v11, and likely more all thread in and they have never had any issues. The Patton has 8 bolts, extreme has 7, the mini has 5, and the v11 has 4

Edited October 21, 2023 by Critzlez

[Cyberwolf]

On 9/22/2023 at 4:03 PM, stizl said:

I have them also and they’re great. Just make sure to secure them somehow if you ride off road or do jumps, as the friction fit isn’t very strong. I lost one but backtracked and found it, and someone else earlier in this thread lost one too. 

A bit late getting back to this thread (been busy), it was me that mentioned losing one side; I spent time looking but never was able to find it...

On the bright side, it provided an opportunity to customize the look a bit and I decided to get a replacement set in red and did a bit of mix-n-match!

I ran a strip of electrical tape along each side over the seam to hold them in place.  Up to around 1700mi currently and haven't had one come loose again...

[Uras]

23 hours ago, Critzlez said:

I have the Patton, it's 8 bolts. But I haven't ever heard of this being an issue in any euc at all, so I wouldn't sweat at all really. I'm sure you're overthinking this too much. Begode extreme, commander mini, the v11, and likely more all thread in and they have never had any issues. The Patton has 8 bolts, extreme has 7, the mini has 5, and the v11 has 4

Oh, I see, you're considering both sides? I would be surprised if both sides become a problem at the same time. I believe you have to consider each side on its own. For example, I imagine if / when this becomes a problem it will be one side. If it goes ignored for a while, then it will be the other side too. Suspension will help mitigate the 5mm or so of movement from holes deforming / bolts coming loose I imagine. 

You might be right re it becoming a problem. I'd suggest it is already a problem if you consider the limited amount of torque you can apply to the mount bolts.

I only know my 16x, which has the pedal hangers mounted around the axle as well as bolted into the side of the motor housing.

Edited October 22, 2023 by Uras

[Critzlez]

29 minutes ago, Uras said:

Oh, I see, you're considering both sides? I would be surprised if both sides become a problem at the same time. I believe you have to consider each side on its own. For example, I imagine if / when this becomes a problem it will be one side. If it goes ignored for a while, then it will be the other side too. Suspension will help mitigate the 5mm or so of movement from holes deforming / bolts coming loose I imagine. 

You might be right re it becoming a problem. I'd suggest it is already a problem if you consider the limited amount of torque you can apply to the mount bolts.

I only know my 16x, which has the pedal hangers mounted around the axle as well as bolted into the side of the motor housing.

Not sure what you mean by both sides, but I was talking purely about each side on its own, where each side has those amounts of bolts. Ie the Patton has 8 bolts per side, etc

Edited October 22, 2023 by Critzlez

[Planemo]

48 minutes ago, Uras said:

I only know my 16x, which has the pedal hangers mounted around the axle as well as bolted into the side of the motor housing.

Tbf there are only 2 bolts (albeit large-ish) per hanger around the axle. And the 5 screws that go through the plastic shell and into the hanger are irrelevant because if the 2 main hanger bolts come loose/snap you will risk losing the fixed interface between the pedals and motor axle which would be catastrophic.

So the question here is whether the 2 bolts on the KS16X are 'better' than the Patton's setup. Unless you do some real life stress-testing I am not sure you can claim that. 

Edited October 22, 2023 by Planemo

[Uras]

54 minutes ago, Planemo said:

Tbf there are only 2 bolts (albeit large-ish) per hanger around the axle. And the 5 screws that go through the plastic shell and into the hanger are irrelevant because if the 2 main hanger bolts come loose/snap you will risk losing the fixed interface between the pedals and motor axle which would be catastrophic.

So the question here is whether the 2 bolts on the KS16X are 'better' than the Patton's setup. Unless you do some real life stress-testing I am not sure you can claim that. 

ah, of course you're right. The only advantage is that the force is inline with the bolts, and not at right angles. Not the best design either - again, this is where I'd have bolts going all the way through and threading into steel nuts. I'm guessing they don't actually go all the way through.

It's probably been shown, but some dudes on the patton had exactly this problem while riding - one of those 4 bolts snapped. 

 

Edited October 22, 2023 by Uras

[Planemo]

15 hours ago, Uras said:

The only advantage is that the force is inline with the bolts, and not at right angles.

I don't think you can claim that either. The pedal itself is enough distance away from the bolts that a fair bit of leverage will be present on them.

I'm not going to derail this thread by saying anything more, suffice to say I believe you are overthinking the problem. Out of what must be a huge number of EUC's sold there really isn't many where the pedal hangers are deciding to take a holiday from the wheel.

[RhoadsNRoses82]

left my patton in the rain for about an hour the other day, now i see some condensation on the inside of the LCD screen. is this somethin to be concerned about?

[Critzlez]

10 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

left my patton in the rain for about an hour the other day, now i see some condensation on the inside of the LCD screen. is this somethin to be concerned about?

Happened to me but it's because it was high humidity in the bay area. If it was heavy rain and the buttons were soaked frequently, i'd probably open it up and see if the controller is wet. Because directly under that screen is the controller board. There is foam under the buttons i think, so it probably just soaked some water in it. It shouldn't damage much if it was light rain

[DjPanJan]

I want confirm this: Newest Firmware reduce max lvl of charge?

 I have still stock FW (loud beeps) my patton is after charging 126,4V is true new FW not alow patton charge to "FULL" or i understand something wrong?

I know new FW can setup beeps alarm for overcharging in braking.

 

[carlitos]

Does anybody know what is the exact size of the inner tube for the Patton? Wanna buy a spare or two, just in case.

A quick look in AliExpress only shows a full package of the original tire plus the inner tube, and won't give me the exact measures of the inner tube

[mrelwood]

49 minutes ago, carlitos said:

Does anybody know what is the exact size of the inner tube for the Patton? Wanna buy a spare or two, just in case.

3.0-12 would be the motorcycle sizing, but the slightly smaller 16x3” (bicycle) will fit as well. Although, I didn’t find a tube with a suitable valve (90 degree forward bent) from Ali, which is why I always buy my tubes from EUC webshops. Shop around and you’ll find a good enough deal.

 

[OliG]

On 10/30/2023 at 2:56 PM, DjPanJan said:

I want confirm this: Newest Firmware reduce max lvl of charge?

 I have still stock FW (loud beeps) my patton is after charging 126,4V is true new FW not alow patton charge to "FULL" or i understand something wrong?

I know new FW can setup beeps alarm for overcharging in braking.

 

I can’t confirm, just share my observation: I upgraded yesterday from 004.0.7 to 004.0.12 (last version available)

With .7 version I was able to charge up to 126.1V on Patton screen. With last version, the charge stopped at 125.8V. 
 

I will check on several charge if it’s consistent. 
 

Did someone know if it’s a new feature and if we can configure this, maybe in advanced configuration menu?

[OliG]

Hello friends,

Here is a presentation of the buffy kit for Patton from Nylonove, a set of accessories to enhance the Patton riding experience, and the essential information on how to fit them on the wheel.

For more pictures don’t hesitate to check my facebook post I was limited to 4 pictures here: 

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02og8Wx3ci1uYiVAh5SWo7MyW1aW7qLVwmyR9v9brMDYSxHDW2xYCEqv1E9QSMVdGul&id=100063573820704

 

Contents of the Buffy kit for Patton:

Kit includes:

• One pair of front bumpers
• One pair of rear bumpers
• Side panels covered with soft Velcro on the outside
• Top covers that attach to the side panels (red upper part with rounded edge for those bothered by the angle of the top of the battery packs)
• A pair of accessories to fit over the compression and rebound adjustment screw threads on the shock arms, for tool-free access with the top covers in place.
• A pair of accessories for positioning the Kinetic V2.0 Nylonove power pads on the side panels without the Jump pads part, using the connector housing between the jump pad and the 2 upper power pad sections
• One roll of "soft" velcro
• One roll of "hard" velcro

 

To enhance the buffy kit:

To complete the kit, we received the following items:

• A pair of footplates with adjustable angle and overlay
• A pair of Kinetic pads v2.0 in Nylo team colors to match the rest of the kit

 

Setup

Assembly is very straightforward, taking between 30 minutes and 1 hour. No special tools are required, apart from a few Allen keys and a Phillips screwdriver.

The process for assembling the Buffy kit is as follows:

1. Start by screwing the side plates to the top covers. Use the screws and nuts supplied. There are 4 screws for each panel. Note that there are two screw lengths. The longer ones are for use on the back of the covers.
2. Then glue the hard part of the Velcro to the inside of the side plate: measure two strips and glue them so that they fit the position of the plate on the Patton.
3. If you didn't have Velcro on the wheel before, or if you need to supplement the original Velcro, cut strips of soft Velcro and glue them to the wheel so that they coincide with the Velcro on the side plate.
4. Before fitting the panels to the wheel, insert the powerpad connector (female part) into the dedicated slot on the panel. Disconnect the male part of the connector before installation. If you position your powerpads asymmetrically, this step is optional. In this case, you can place the connectors directly on the powerpads for aesthetic purposes.
5. Place the accessories on the compression and rebound adjustment screw threads of the shock absorber arms before fitting the plates. This can perhaps be done once the plates are in place, but I found it easier in the order described.
6. Place the side plate on the wheel starting with the top covers, so that the top cover connectors are correctly positioned in the original cover housings then position the Velcro of the panel on the Velcro of the wheel.
7. You can then move on to positioning the front and rear bumpers, following the supplied manual. Be careful not to use excessive force when replacing the original screws after positioning the bumpers.
8. You can finish by fitting the pedals and power pads.

 

To fit the footplates, proceed as follows:

1. Remove the locking mechanism from the original footplates. Don't forget to remove the toothed part attached to the footplate bracket. As usual, the original screw heads are extremely fragile and sometimes very tight.
2. Loosen the screws holding the original footplate axles (the two screws on the outside of the footplates).
3. Use a mallet and the metal axle supplied with Nylonove footplates to extract the axles from the original footplates.
4. Unscrew the front part of the axle on the Nylonove footplates and the screw holding the rear axle, and remove the axles
5. Place the footplates on the wheel, with the part with the thicker overlay at the front.
6. Place the front axle (the one that screws in). You control the softness/hardness of the folded footplate by tightening this axle.
7. Position the rear axle and gently press it in, using the mallet if necessary. Tighten the axle retaining screw.
8. Now all you have to do is adjust the footplates angle (the original footplates angle is 9-10°) and spike height if you need more or less grip.

 

Feedback on use and improvements

After a few hours of use (the current weather in Paris didn't allow more unfortunately), needless to say, I'm delighted with the improvements these accessories bring.

To sum them up:

• You can use powerpads other than the original ones, without being hampered by the raised front and rear handles. You have much more choice in positioning the power pads towards the front and rear of the wheel, with an extended surface thanks to the plates and bumpers (their flat lateral surface extends the space for positioning the pads towards the front and rear).
• For those who were bothered by the angles at the top of the battery packs, the rounded top covers elegantly solve the problem while improving protection of the upper part of the wheel against impact and rain.
• In addition to extending the pad positioning area, front and rear bumpers protect the front and rear of the wheel, while adding a touch of color (unless you opt for black, of course).
• Needless to say, Nylonove footplates offer improved grip, adjustable spike height and overlays for comfort. An experience on a par with that of replacing the original footplates on the S22. I haven't adjusted the angle at this stage. The original angle suits me (10°). I'm able to position my feet more easily than with the sharper spikes on the original pedals, even when locked in place with the jump blocks.
• As for Kinetic pads v2.0, for me it's a real pleasure to rediscover the feeling I so appreciate on the S22, with a wider support surface both front and rear to optimize acceleration and braking, and support to help guide the wheel smoothly. This is what I lacked most on the Patton with the original pads.
• Finally, the most subjective aspect: aesthetics. I love the new look of the Patton with this kit, whose aesthetics and quality of finish are on a par with the previous accessories designed by  Nylonove. Those who have already bought one of the accessories designed by Nylonove know what I'm talking about.

 

Don't hesitate if you have any questions.

Links:

• Bumper set : https://hulaj.market/veteran-patton/1646-79920-bumper-set-for-veteran-patton.html#/93-color_flex-red
• Footplates: https://hulaj.market/nylonove/1616-nylonove-for-veteran-patton-with-angle-adjustment-nylon-feet-for-the-euc.html
• Kinetic pads v2.0: https://hulaj.market/kinetic-pads/309-kinetic-pads-20.html

 

Note: The link to the panels and top covers is missing, as I couldn't find it on Hulaj Market. To order them, please contact Nylonove directly.

[DjPanJan]

Personaly i own kinetic 2.0 and nylonove footplates for patton and pads is not idieal fit over rised EDGE and not look good practicaly i need fix all holes with gorilla tape against dust ingress.

Foodplates fine i cant get used to "red" pieces on pedals (in my case is white).

I hate integrated jumpad and is disasembled only plastic holder is on patton. I removed the part that can be unscrewed (the original rubber jumppads are too big)

 

[EucRiders]

Hello. I just got my Patton 66lb (I am 82kg without equipment). I really do not like stock knoby tire. 80% I ride on the perfect street roads (we got a lot of brand new bicycle patches here), the other 20% forest, light off-road rides, and some country roads. I ordered Heidenau K38, Has anyone got that tire? Looks really good mixture between on-road & off-road. From all the tires I looked for my Patton Heidenau K38 looks the most universal, the most all-around option to me.

Heidenau K38 pattern.

[OliG]

13 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

Personaly i own kinetic 2.0 and nylonove footplates for patton and pads is not idieal fit over rised EDGE and not look good practicaly i need fix all holes with gorilla tape against dust ingress.

Foodplates fine i cant get used to "red" pieces on pedals (in my case is white).

I hate integrated jumpad and is disasembled only plastic holder is on patton. I removed the part that can be unscrewed (the original rubber jumppads are too big)

 

Not sure to understand your point to fit the kinetic2.0 over the rised edge. If you’re talking of the rised part of the front and back handle, there is no more issue to fix the kinetic pads with the additional side plate and bumpers. With these accessories everything is at the same level and the surface to adjust positioning of the pads is extended to the front and rear of the wheel. 
 

Regarding the footplates, red parts (overlays) are removable if you can’t get used to them. 
 

Alternatively Nylonove is working on a “slim” kit” that could answer to your needs without adding additional side plates. Did you saw it ?

[DjPanJan]

7 hours ago, OliG said:

Not sure to understand your point to fit the kinetic2.0 over the rised edge. If you’re talking of the rised part of the front and back handle, there is no more issue to fix the kinetic pads with the additional side plate and bumpers. With these accessories everything is at the same level and the surface to adjust positioning of the pads is extended to the front and rear of the wheel. 
 

Regarding the footplates, red parts (overlays) are removable if you can’t get used to them. 
 

Alternatively Nylonove is working on a “slim” kit” that could answer to your needs without adding additional side plates. Did you saw it ?

I make picture of my setup its self explanation i am just not ideal customer of kinetics 2.0 i no jump no need any jump pad and i want only contact with pads when hard acelerate or hard brake i nowat feel/touch them 98% of my ride time.

This bumpers look great i hope they offer others parts too on hulajnoga market i try get used overlays but is painfull my driving shoes have a heel maybee this is core of pain. I promise picture today i just need finish work task and make photo ASAP. 

Edited November 6, 2023 by DjPanJan
PHOTO ADDED

[DjPanJan]

4 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

I make picture of my setup its self explanation i am just not ideal customer of kinetics 2.0 i no jump no need any jump pad and i want only contact with pads when hard acelerate or hard brake i no waNt feel/touch them 98% of my ride time.

This bumpers look great i hope they offer others parts too on hulajnoga market i try get used overlays but is painfull my driving shoes have a heel maybee this is core of pain. I promise picture today i just need finish work task and make photo ASAP. 

@OliG

Edited November 6, 2023 by DjPanJan

[jimjam.nyc]

17 hours ago, EucRiders said:

Hello. I just got my Patton 66lb (I am 82kg without equipment). I really do not like stock knoby tire. 80% I ride on the perfect street roads (we got a lot of brand new bicycle patches here), the other 20% forest, light off-road rides, and some country roads. I ordered Heidenau K38, Has anyone got that tire? Looks really good mixture between on-road & off-road. From all the tires I looked for my Patton Heidenau K38 looks the most universal, the most all-around option to me.

Heidenau K38 pattern.

I have used this tire. I have to be honest I was not originally thrilled with it. It took some getting used to. I ride mostly street. After I got used to the tire, i started to like it a bit more. I essentially swapped to the H626 which suits my street riding a bit more. 

Essentially it took a lot more effort to turn in curves with this tire. I am a small guy so it took some getting used. It may be different for you. Other than that the only other thing i didnt really like was that the tire train tracked quite a bit on grooves and paint lines.. Again, nothing that you cant get used to. I had no traction issues or anything with the tire. It worked well in that regard!

 

[OliG]

6 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

@OliG

I see. As I tried to explain with side plate and bumpers, you obtain a flat surface. It allows to better fix your pads on an extended surface of Velcro in the front and the back. It will work too with Grizzla pads that you are using. 
 

But if you are happy with your current setup, no need to change 😉