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Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh


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51 minutes ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

what'd you use to clean it? 

I ended up using a small allen-wrench with a piece of shop-towel folded over it (e.g. the blue rolls that are basically heavy-duty paper towels).  Nothing fancy, and takes a bit of patience (and good lighting), but worked fine to clear it all out and wipe dry.

Happened after riding in heavy rainstorm; not sure if was corrosion or some type of water-soluble sealant/etc. leaking out from somewhere...

Edited by Cyberwolf
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8 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said:

I ended up using a small allen-wrench with a piece of shop-towel folded over it (e.g. the blue rolls that are basically heavy-duty paper towels).  Nothing fancy, and takes a bit of patience (and good lighting), but worked fine to clear it all out and wipe dry.

Happened after riding in heavy rainstorm; not sure if was corrosion or some type of water-soluble sealant/etc. leaking out from somewhere...

so u just dampened that shop towel with water? or is there some special substance that removes this stuff?

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23 minutes ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

so u just dampened that shop towel with water? or is there some special substance that removes this stuff?

I don't recall it being all that difficult to remove.  The allen wrench is stiff enough to apply a bit of pressure.

It's possible that I may have used a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the shop towel, but don't recall (I seem to recall just the dry shop-towel;  even so, if it didn't come off with just a bit of working at it, that's what I would have certainly used as a solvent, not water)

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On 11/22/2023 at 6:58 AM, Rollin-on-1 said:

I haven't tried the H666 on the Patton, but I have it on my 16x.  I have the H626 on my Patton and I like it - a lot.  The H626 has all the benefits of the H666 which I love on my 16x, but with less train tracking.  I have 5x more miles on my 16x with H666, but I think I prefer the H626 for most riding conditions and terrain.

Where do you get H626 from? I cannot find anywhere in EUROPE...

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4 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

so u just dampened that shop towel with water? or is there some special substance that removes this stuff?

I find PB Blaster to be quite effective for cleaning that kind of oxidation off. I would use generic Q-tips, if there is enough room to fit in there.

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58 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I find PB Blaster to be quite effective for cleaning that kind of oxidation off. I would use generic Q-tips, if there is enough room to fit in there.

There's definitely not enough room for a regular Q-tip - that's the first thing I tried.

ETA: I think something like this might work well (almost ordered it, but needed the job done immediately):  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DF7HZHQ

Edited by Cyberwolf
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8 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

So that problem actually resolved itself after i left my wheel sitting in my cold empty house while i was away for 3 days. i guess the low moisture air allowed the water from inside that area to evaporate out. But now i just noticed that my charge ports look like this...i don't know how long they've been that way. wondering if it's ok to plug in while it looks like this

PXL_20231123_193036800.jpg

I'd definitely double check if the controller board doesn't have any water ingression. The green stuff came from electrolysis from water contact. I think only older batches doesn't have silicone sealant to prevent water from going through the charge ports into the controller, not sure which batch though.

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4 hours ago, Cyberwolf said:

There's definitely not enough room for a regular Q-tip - that's the first thing I tried.

ETA: I think something like this might work well (almost ordered it, but needed the job done immediately):  OOO

 

In that case, I would have use an artist's brush with longer bristles.

There are different options to be sure.

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18 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

what'd you use to clean it? 

I would strongly suggest using DeOxit spray for these connections, perhaps after doing what you can to remove the green gunk.  DeOxit is expensive for what it is, but I know of no better product for cleaning electrical contacts

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On 11/17/2023 at 11:41 AM, stizl said:

Your safest bet for proper fit is to get it from your wheel distributor, such as eWheels. The angled valve stems on these vary slightly from brand to brand. 
 

I bought the tubes linked below (16x3.00) and they are almost the same as the stock tube. They are nice and thick rubber, but the stem angle is slightly off. They work on Patton, but I’d rather pay 3x the cost for the peace of mind of knowing the stem isn’t stressed and going to come loose off the tube. 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMmFfmM

Thanks, I just got some from ewheels they sent over to me 16x3.00 and the angle is off on mine too, its hitting my shell. is there a safe way to fix this , if not i have clacking noises from the valve :( I just installed the shinko sr 241 

Edited by WILSONEUC
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1 hour ago, WILSONEUC said:

Thanks, I just got some from ewheels they sent over to me 16x3.00 and the angle is off on mine too, its hitting my shell. is there a safe way to fix this , if not i have clacking noises from the valve :( I just installed the shinko sr 241 

Is it possible that you may have accidentally installed the tube upside down?  

I just recently swapped my original knobby (after 2208 miles), and almost did the same thing at first with the new tube...

 

 

Edited by Cyberwolf
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8 hours ago, WILSONEUC said:

Thanks, I just got some from ewheels they sent over to me 16x3.00 and the angle is off on mine too, its hitting my shell. is there a safe way to fix this , if not i have clacking noises from the valve :( I just installed the shinko sr 241 

 

6 hours ago, Cyberwolf said:

Is it possible that you may have accidentally installed the tube upside down?  

I just recently swapped my original knobby (after 2208 miles), and almost did the same thing at first with the new tube...

 

 

Agreed, checking the orientation is a good idea. I have attached a few photos below. The first shows the stock tube valve stem orientation as fitted from LK:

image.thumb.jpeg.311ac96b950ae8ffe845d3a371292715.jpeg
 

Here is the tube I bought from AliExpress next to the stock tube. They are both marked the same, but the angle of the valve stems are different, with the Ali tube being the cleaner and flatter of the two and having the rotated stem orientation:

image.thumb.jpeg.78e2b504218d2119050d38debb8028f9.jpeg
 

And here is the Ali tube installed with the Shinko 241 at 26psi. It doesn’t lay flat against the rim like the stock tube does. It does clear the battery case, but I don’t like how it protrudes. I think one unlucky pick-up of a stick on the trail could be trouble. It also feels like the base of the stem is under a bit more stress than the stock tube. I plan to switch back to a tube with a not-rotated stem:

image.thumb.jpeg.44ab19a6710572aac1e56772b983fe57.jpeg

Edited by stizl
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10 minutes ago, stizl said:

 

Agreed, checking the orientation is a good idea. I have attached a few photos below. The first shows the stock tube valve stem orientation as fitted from LK:

image.thumb.jpeg.311ac96b950ae8ffe845d3a371292715.jpeg
 

Here is the tube I bought from AliExpress next to the stock tube. They are both marked the same, but the angle of the valve stems are different, with the Ali tube being the cleaner and flatter of the two and having the rotated stem orientation:

image.thumb.jpeg.78e2b504218d2119050d38debb8028f9.jpeg
 

And here is the Ali tube installed with the Shinko 241 at 26psi. It doesn’t lay flat against the rim like the stock tube does. It does clear the battery case, but I don’t like how it protrudes. I think one unlucky pick-up of a stick on the trail could be trouble. It also feels like the base of the stem is under a bit more stress than the stock tube. I plan to switch back to a tube with a not-rotated stem:

image.thumb.jpeg.44ab19a6710572aac1e56772b983fe57.jpeg

I had purchased a tube from ali a while ago and the angle was off. It rubbed just like yours. I was able to change the orientation on it to make it work. But the downfall of that, is it's very hard to put a pump on it since it then sits so close to the rim. It gave me anxiety that I may accidentally rip the valve. In the end it did work and hold well. It was just a pain in the butt to check pressure and things.

I eventually got a new tube from ewheels with the correct angle. 

Edited by jimjam.nyc
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33 minutes ago, stizl said:

t does clear the battery case, but I don’t like how it protrudes.

I also bought a 16 x 3.00, CST inner tube with a 45 degrees valve stem for my V12. It also stuck out to the side too much.

I should have bought one with a 0 degrees valve stem.  Now I know.

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12 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I also bought a 16 x 3.00, CST inner tube with a 45 degrees valve stem for my V12. It also stuck out to the side too much.

I should have bought one with a 0 degrees valve stem.  Now I know.

It was quite the learning experience for me. Lol 

Tire on... tire off... tire on... tire off...

I can now take the Patton apart pretty quickly though. So there was a bit of a silver lining.

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7 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

It was quite the learning experience for me. Lol 

Tire on... tire off... tire on... tire off...

I can now take the Patton apart pretty quickly though. So there was a bit of a silver lining.

Ha, same here, and the same on earlier wheels. Hopefully we’ll help others from having to go through the same.

On that note, most of the 12x3.00 tubes I see online have the 45 degree rotation, but the zero degree tubes appear almost nowhere. The photo on eWheels appears to be zero degree, but it may be worth a call or message with them to be sure before ordering. 
image.jpeg.7649f23b40ba6ec6177a04c9b024ed47.jpeg

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4 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

It was quite the learning experience for me. Lol 

Tire on... tire off... tire on... tire off...

I can now take the Patton apart pretty quickly though. So there was a bit of a silver lining.

I have taken out the inner tube out from the V12 quite a few times, so I was used to it. 

I haven't taken out an inner tube from my S22 yet, but I have taken out the wheel quite a few times. 

The S22 is an euc that is really easy to remove the wheel. Not sure about the inner tube once the wheel is out, since I don't know whether I will be able to loosen the axle bolts without grief.

 

Now that I have own an S22, I can appreciate the Patton that much more.

One can put in the work to turn the S22 into a nice riding wheel, or just buy the Patton and get better build quality and motor performance, at least for my use case. Looking back, maybe I should have just simply spend a little more and get the Patton.

For me, although the Lynx would be an upgrade to the Patton, especially to the S22, I feel that the Patton is already a really good wheel for riding around the city.

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On 6/11/2023 at 19:19, jimjam.nyc said:

He usado este neumático. Tengo que ser honesto, al principio no me entusiasmó. Tomó un poco de tiempo para acostumbrarse. Viajo principalmente por la calle. Después de acostumbrarme al neumático, me empezó a gustar un poco más. Básicamente, cambié al H626, que se adapta un poco más a mi conducción en la calle. 

Básicamente, tomar curvas con este neumático requirió mucho más esfuerzo. Soy un chico pequeño, así que me costó un poco acostumbrarme. Puede que sea diferente para ti. Aparte de eso, la única otra cosa que realmente no me gustó fue que el tren de neumáticos se desplazaba bastante sobre las ranuras y las líneas de pintura. Nuevamente, nada a lo que no puedas acostumbrarte. No tuve problemas de tracción ni nada con el neumático. ¡Funcionó bien en ese sentido!

 

Hi, I have put a heidenau k38 tire on my Patton and the first day it seems to me that it doesn't turn very well. I don't know if it takes time to get used to it @jimjam.nyc or if it's better to put another tire on. I weigh 80kg and like the wheel to be nimble. I changed it because I wanted a city tire. Can you advise me?

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8 minutes ago, Pablocavern said:

Hi, I have put a heidenau k38 tire on my Patton and the first day it seems to me that it doesn't turn very well. I don't know if it takes time to get used to it @jimjam.nyc or if it's better to put another tire on. I weigh 80kg and like the wheel to be nimble. I changed it because I wanted a city tire. Can you advise me?

I found this tire a bit hard to turn. You can get used to it! 

One thing I did to help was up the tire pressure almost to max. I am very light. I eventually settled on 34 to 35 psi.

But the tire will push to stay upright no matter what. So there was some adjustment to ride style needed. 

I did get somewhat comfortable on it, so give it some chance and play with tire pressure. I eventually found a sweet spot and started to enjoy it a little more.

I did eventually swap out to the h626. Which in all honesty I like quite a bit better 

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3 hours ago, WILSONEUC said:

 

I got about 15 seconds into your video and was like "shit, forgot to use powder on my recent tire change, dang it!" (lol...seems to be seated fine at ~36psi)

Glad you got the valve stem issue squared away.  Just curious - what was your milage on the old tire?

Also, had the same issue with chipped paint on the rim from the spoons - planning to see how well Alumablack works to clean them up (along with a few pedal-clip scuffs)...

Edited by Cyberwolf
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On 11/27/2023 at 4:07 PM, jimjam.nyc said:

I found this tire a bit hard to turn. You can get used to it! 

One thing I did to help was up the tire pressure almost to max. I am very light. I eventually settled on 34 to 35 psi.

But the tire will push to stay upright no matter what. So there was some adjustment to ride style needed. 

I did get somewhat comfortable on it, so give it some chance and play with tire pressure. I eventually found a sweet spot and started to enjoy it a little more.

I did eventually swap out to the h626. Which in all honesty I like quite a bit better 

Hi! I was starting to intensely hate the zero turning ability of the heidenau and wondering why Wrongway likes it. Then it occurred to me to change the camber of the wheel. I had it leaned forward, which had no influence on the handling of the original tire. Now I have put some backward camber on it and that change in the heidenau is very noticeable. Before it was very difficult to turn and now it turns relatively well. I'll give it a margin of confidence. It strikes me that camber has a big influence on some tires but not on others.
Have you noticed it with any tire?

Edited by Pablocavern
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23 minutes ago, Pablocavern said:

Hi! I was starting to intensely hate the zero turning ability of the heidenau and wondering why Wrongway likes it. Then it occurred to me to change the camber of the wheel. I had it leaned forward, which had no influence on the handling of the original tire. Now I have put some backward camber on it and that change in the heidenau is very noticeable. Before it was very difficult to turn and now it turns relatively well. I'll give it a margin of confidence. It strikes me that camber has a big influence on some tires but not on others.
Have you noticed it with any tire?

Camber? You mean caster right? As in changing the pedals "neutral position", whether they lean you a bit to the front or to the back?

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