Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh

[OliG]

Hello,

For those who are interested, after 3-4 recharges I confirm: Slight decrease of the voltage at the end of the charge after upgrade from 004.0.7 to 004.0.12. The charge ends at 125.8 volts now, where before I was able to charge up to 126.1 volts.

As I said in my previous post, I'm not asking for an opinion as to the importance of this anecdotal reduction on autonomy or anything else, to be clear , it's just an observation.

And know I understand why they put 151.2V on the Lynx 

[jimjam.nyc]

4 minutes ago, OliG said:

Hello,

For those who are interested, after 3-4 recharges I confirm: Slight decrease of the voltage at the end of the charge after upgrade from 004.0.7 to 004.0.12. The charge ends at 125.8 volts now, where before I was able to charge up to 126.1 volts.

As I said in my previous post, I'm not asking for an opinion as to the importance of this anecdotal reduction on autonomy or anything else, to be clear , it's just an observation.

And know I understand why they put 151.2V on the Lynx 

I upgraded to the newest firmware a while ago. I can still charge mine up to the same 126.1 ( i did calibrate the voltage on screen to my battery with a multimeter when i got the wheel and do check it when i do any maintenance, tire changes, etc)

One thing I always noticed since the beginning even on early firmware. The battery does slowly drain from the top end every day until a certain point if left unused. Mine drains about .1 or .2 volts a day until it reaches arund 123v - 124v then it stops. 

This was something I was thought to be normal and actually am pretty OK with. It has not negatively impacted range or anything at all with the wheel. Its probably a good thing in the long run.

 

[OliG]

1 hour ago, jimjam.nyc said:

I upgraded to the newest firmware a while ago. I can still charge mine up to the same 126.1 ( i did calibrate the voltage on screen to my battery with a multimeter when i got the wheel and do check it when i do any maintenance, tire changes, etc)

One thing I always noticed since the beginning even on early firmware. The battery does slowly drain from the top end every day until a certain point if left unused. Mine drains about .1 or .2 volts a day until it reaches arund 123v - 124v then it stops. 

This was something I was thought to be normal and actually am pretty OK with. It has not negatively impacted range or anything at all with the wheel. Its probably a good thing in the long run.

 

Same for me for battery drain. I've charged the wheel yesterday up to 125.8V and this morning I started with 125.1V.

I did not calibrate the voltage on screen before and after upgrade. I use the same charger. Interresting to know that you can still charge yours up to 126.1v

[jimjam.nyc]

1 hour ago, OliG said:

Same for me for battery drain. I've charged the wheel yesterday up to 125.8V and this morning I started with 125.1V.

I did not calibrate the voltage on screen before and after upgrade. I use the same charger. Interresting to know that you can still charge yours up to 126.1v

It is possible your wheel is still charging to the same voltage as before.. Just the screen is reporting differently with the new firmware. The veteran wheels are pretty well known to report the wrong voltage by a few points. I think that is why they allow you to calibrate it up or down a bit!

Edited November 9, 2023 by jimjam.nyc

[carlitos]

14 hours ago, jimjam.nyc said:

It is possible your wheel is still charging to the same voltage as before.. Just the screen is reporting differently with the new firmware. The veteran wheels are pretty well known to report the wrong voltage by a few points. I think that is why they allow you to calibrate it up or down a bit!

How do you measure the battery voltage without taking the wheel apart? Is it possible to measure with a multimeter through the charge port?

[jimjam.nyc]

3 hours ago, carlitos said:

How do you measure the battery voltage without taking the wheel apart? Is it possible to measure with a multimeter through the charge port?

You have to take the top cover off. The battery plugs are right under the first top cover. So you don't have to take much apart. But there is a bit of unscrewing to do.

I don't think it's fully necessary to do this to be honest. But I had a first batch so took it all apart to check it when I got it, so I checked the battery voltage as part of that.

[Rawnei]

Having helped friends and riders on Telegram tune their FastAce suspension someone asked me if I couldn't write a guide for it so I made one here:

 

[Kamaz]

I have seen that there is a new version of firmware for patton in the app, does anyone know if there is information about the changes in this new version?

[Rawnei]

2 hours ago, Kamaz said:

I have seen that there is a new version of firmware for patton in the app, does anyone know if there is information about the changes in this new version?

You're guess is as good as mine, ysually they provide a changelog in chinese, can translate it with google lens. 😁

[RhoadsNRoses82]

On 10/25/2023 at 12:12 AM, Critzlez said:

Happened to me but it's because it was high humidity in the bay area. If it was heavy rain and the buttons were soaked frequently, i'd probably open it up and see if the controller is wet. Because directly under that screen is the controller board. There is foam under the buttons i think, so it probably just soaked some water in it. It shouldn't damage much if it was light rain

so after about a month of it being fogged up a bit like that, this morning i was riding and i noticed my entire screen is messed up and says "no con" i guess meaning no connection between the screen and the controller? i'm not savvy with this sort of thing so i have no idea. i've been riding so far today and haven't felt any issues with the actual ride quality itself...but if anyone has any thoughts on this do share, cuz it feels unsafe lol

[stizl]

7 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

so after about a month of it being fogged up a bit like that, this morning i was riding and i noticed my entire screen is messed up and says "no con" i guess meaning no connection between the screen and the controller? i'm not savvy with this sort of thing so i have no idea. i've been riding so far today and haven't felt any issues with the actual ride quality itself...but if anyone has any thoughts on this do share, cuz it feels unsafe lol

I would first remove the top covers and check the connectors that connect the display to the top controller board. Try unplugging and plugging it back in to see if it resolves the problem. Also, while it is unplugged, inspect the terminals in the plug connectors for water and corrosion. 

[WILSONEUC]

On 10/2/2023 at 6:42 PM, stizl said:

Sorry, I should have included this information.  No, your part number is incorrect. These tires are sold by their rim size, which is 12”, not the outer “(16”)“ diameter, which is actually 18”+. 

https://shinkotireusa.com/product/trail-pro-sr241-series-tire/211922

The specific size for Patton is 3.00-12, and the Shinko part number is 387-4451 .

I ordered mine from CycleGear.com in the US, and the cost was $40. 

Thanks. Do you also have link for the proper inner tube for this? 

[stizl]

13 hours ago, WILSONEUC said:

Thanks. Do you also have link for the proper inner tube for this? 

Your safest bet for proper fit is to get it from your wheel distributor, such as eWheels. The angled valve stems on these vary slightly from brand to brand. 
 

I bought the tubes linked below (16x3.00) and they are almost the same as the stock tube. They are nice and thick rubber, but the stem angle is slightly off. They work on Patton, but I’d rather pay 3x the cost for the peace of mind of knowing the stem isn’t stressed and going to come loose off the tube. 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMmFfmM

[Ronin Ryder]

Lynx and Patton:

 

[Pablocavern]

Hi. I have a Patton and am concerned about braking when heavily loaded. 

First I was annoyed with the constant beeping and they recommended changing the voltage alarm to 126v. That almost got rid of the problem so I was satisfied.

However, I have subsequently learned that in my country (Spain) there have been two users who have had crashes during braking. Considering that few euc are sold here, I am not at ease. 

I was even thinking of selling my Patton with 2000km to buy the Lynx but I'm angry about losing money and I don't know if the Lynx will be agile enough.

Do you know if LeaperKim is going to solve this? Do you recommend the Lynx?
 

[stizl]

1 hour ago, Pablocavern said:

Hi. I have a Patton and am concerned about braking when heavily loaded. 

First I was annoyed with the constant beeping and they recommended changing the voltage alarm to 126v. That almost got rid of the problem so I was satisfied.

However, I have subsequently learned that in my country (Spain) there have been two users who have had crashes during braking. Considering that few euc are sold here, I am not at ease. 

I was even thinking of selling my Patton with 2000km to buy the Lynx but I'm angry about losing money and I don't know if the Lynx will be agile enough.

Do you know if LeaperKim is going to solve this? Do you recommend the Lynx?
 

LeaperKim is fixing this issue on new Pattons. The cause of the problem is hardware in the battery packs’ BMS, so it can only be fixed on early Pattons by replacing battery packs or by disassembling them and modifying the BMS PCBs. Given the cost and/or time involved for either fix, it is therefore most likely not going to be fixed on early Pattons. 

As long as you don’t live at the top of a steep hill, you just have to be careful not to brake hard for the first few miles after charging. It is inconvenient, but after that you can ride as normal without worrying. 

The Lynx will probably be a great wheel, but it will not be as nimble as a 16” wheel. I’m sure LK will have fixed the Patton overcharging issue on the Lynx, but since it is a new wheel, there will probably be other issues, like on all new wheels, especially from the first batch. 

[Rawnei]

7 hours ago, Pablocavern said:

Hi. I have a Patton and am concerned about braking when heavily loaded. 

First I was annoyed with the constant beeping and they recommended changing the voltage alarm to 126v. That almost got rid of the problem so I was satisfied.

However, I have subsequently learned that in my country (Spain) there have been two users who have had crashes during braking. Considering that few euc are sold here, I am not at ease. 

I was even thinking of selling my Patton with 2000km to buy the Lynx but I'm angry about losing money and I don't know if the Lynx will be agile enough.

Do you know if LeaperKim is going to solve this? Do you recommend the Lynx?
 

Can't you just ride a couple of hundreds meters less aggressive and not brake hard?

Edited November 19, 2023 by Rawnei

[EucRiders]

Has anyone tried the H666 tire on Patton? I am really looking for a hybrid tire, please someone share your experience with street or hybrid tyres on Veteran Patton.

[Rollin-on-1]

4 hours ago, EucRiders said:

Has anyone tried the H666 tire on Patton? I am really looking for a hybrid tire, please someone share your experience with street or hybrid tyres on Veteran Patton.

I haven't tried the H666 on the Patton, but I have it on my 16x.  I have the H626 on my Patton and I like it - a lot.  The H626 has all the benefits of the H666 which I love on my 16x, but with less train tracking.  I have 5x more miles on my 16x with H666, but I think I prefer the H626 for most riding conditions and terrain.

[Stickysock]

At almost 2,000 miles (1966.5) my Rebound shock leg sprung a leak and I am losing rebound dampening, I know I am not the first to have this happen, has anyone sourced seals for the patton? are they the same as the Sherman-S kit on ewheels? TIA!

[fbhb]

2 hours ago, Stickysock said:

has anyone sourced seals for the patton? are they the same as the Sherman-S kit on ewheels? TIA!

@Rawnei is the best one to ask about the seals for both the S and the Patton. Hopefully he sees this and answers with which SKF seal kits I know he has mentioned using previously himself.

[Rawnei]

11 hours ago, Stickysock said:

At almost 2,000 miles (1966.5) my Rebound shock leg sprung a leak and I am losing rebound dampening, I know I am not the first to have this happen, has anyone sourced seals for the patton? are they the same as the Sherman-S kit on ewheels? TIA!

If you want to buy 3rd party seals the dimensions are 37x50x11mm, any fork seals with those dimensions will work, I have SKF Showa 37mm seals in mine they have less friction and higher life span but a bit pricey.

And yes they are the same as on Sherman S.

Edited November 23, 2023 by Rawnei
Typo

[Rawnei]

Small FYI re: Patton, this is information from a user on Telegram, seems like there might be a rare firmware bug, if you get low freespin on your Patton (say 80kmh, it's supposed to be 100kmh+) with High Speed Mode enabled try the following to correct it:

Disable High Speed Mode.

Change the Voltage Calibration in the menu by adding 0.1V.

Enable High Speed Mode.

Wheel should now have proper freespin speed.

[RhoadsNRoses82]

On 11/15/2023 at 10:17 PM, stizl said:

I would first remove the top covers and check the connectors that connect the display to the top controller board. Try unplugging and plugging it back in to see if it resolves the problem. Also, while it is unplugged, inspect the terminals in the plug connectors for water and corrosion. 

So that problem actually resolved itself after i left my wheel sitting in my cold empty house while i was away for 3 days. i guess the low moisture air allowed the water from inside that area to evaporate out. But now i just noticed that my charge ports look like this...i don't know how long they've been that way. wondering if it's ok to plug in while it looks like this

[Cyberwolf]

15 minutes ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

But now i just noticed that my charge ports look like this...i don't know how long they've been that way. wondering if it's ok to plug in while it looks like this

^I had that exact same issue. 

After very carefully cleaning it all out (don't bend the pins!), I've been running fine and haven't had it happen again (prob about 1k miles since).

Edited November 23, 2023 by Cyberwolf