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S22 tips, mods, suspension settings, tire pressure, etc. Share your experiences!


UniVehje

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1 minute ago, Rawnei said:

It doesn't happen when you ride normally just when there is no load on the wheel and you are bouncing it like you did in your clip.

So if I go off a jump or curb where the wheel is allowed to fully extend it won't do it? I do that kinda thing fairly often.

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Well after riding the Michelin pilot street 2 I can say it's not for me. It makes the wheel feel like it's always pulling vertical, putting some weird strain on my hip joints while trying to turn. I got a CST 186 to throw on and run tubeless (same setup as my Sherman S) but on the S22 it doesn't work tubeless. The inner rim lip diameter is a bit short so the tire doesn't have to stretch (and seal) over it. I have a set of shinko 244s coming but realized they aren't tubeless rated either so they probably won't work. For now I reverted it back to tubed with the CST and it's fine. Disappointed though.

Any good 50/50 knobbies that I can run tubeless on the S22?

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4 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

they aren't tubeless rated either

I don’t think that running tubed tires tubeless is a problem with EUCs. EUC rims’ inner edge profile isn’t made for tubeless tires anyway, so either with help from a sealant or good luck the Shinko 244 would probably run tubeless just fine.

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13 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I don’t think that running tubed tires tubeless is a problem with EUCs.

I am not saying you are wrong; certainly people have done it.

But this begs the question as to why don't tire manufacturers make just tube-type tires. One fact is that tubeless tire carcass has an additional air-tight membrane. 

This is what Continental Tire has to say about this topic concerning their motorcycle and scooter tires.

Tubeless vs Tube-type: Continental Motorcycle and Scooter Tire Application Chart (pdf)

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@techyiam, you are absolutely correct in that the official Continental guidelines are the ones that should be followed. But to my knowledge even the EUCs that come equipped with a tubeless setup don’t have the tubeless rim profile described in the document you linked to.

I’m not saying that it’s right or ideal, but running either tubed or tubeless systems on any EUC doesn’t have seemed to be much of an issue (as long as you have a high pressure compressor to initially seal the tubeless tire). I recognize that some tube type tires might seep out some air over time, but I wouldn’t think it to be much of an issue either. It wasn’t for me with the H666. If it seeps, a sealer and a bit tighter refill schedule should work that right out.

 All that said, I tried a tubeless system, but reversed the mod a few months later. And I have no plans of doing it again. The simple fact of requiring a high pressure compressor to get the tire to seal is what drew me off, since I didn’t experience any benefits of riding tubeless.

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15 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

But to my knowledge even the EUCs that come equipped with a tubeless setup don’t have the tubeless rim profile described in the document you linked to.

I can't speak of any other electric wheel, but on the Abrams, there are the "locking ridges" on the rim. And a tubeless tire was mounted on a tubeless rim without an inner tube. However, in the first batch, Leaper Kim still put tire sealant/adhesive inside the tire. On my Abrams, with a later batch wheel, it did not come with tire sealant inside the tire, at least that I could see. However, the tire beads were glued to the rim.

30 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The simple fact of requiring a high pressure compressor to get the tire to seal is what drew me off, since I didn’t experience any benefits of riding tubeless.

I have a high pressure, and high enough volume compressor, so that part is not an issue for me.

I only had two experiences with tubeless tires on electric wheels. One is the stock tire that came with my Abrams. And the second was a CST Moped Tubeless aftermarket tire I bought for my T3. Since it didn't fit on my T3, I mounted my V12 to try out.

For me, the jury is still out on whether tubeless is better. I think a lot has to do with the tire itself too.

After my experience with the 16" tubeless,  I thought all tubeless were going to be super stiff. Not so. The stock tubeless tire on the Abrams was less stiff than the tube-type aftermarket tire I put on my V12. And the 16" tubeless was more stiff than any tire I had.

With tubeless, theoretically you can run very low tire pressures. So this could help, or not. 

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24 minutes ago, techyiam said:

on the Abrams, there are the "locking ridges" on the rim.

Good to know, in that case my information was wrong.

24 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I have a high pressure, and high enough volume compressor, so that part is not an issue for me.

For me it’s not just about not owning one. It’s that I wouldn’t have it with me for example in case I got a flat that could be fixed by letting the sealant pool up at the puncture. In case it’s at the sidewall, or if the sealant has partially dried etc. These have both  been real situations for me or the guys I ride with.

 Gluing the tire to the sidewall would of course solve the issue, but it would again bring it’s own problems.

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Yeah regarding the tube tire on a tubeless rim, my main concern is the construction of the tire, not so much it's ability to lock into the rim. As mentioned, tubeless tires have a different internal construction to handle holding air and also seem to be a bit more durable. Apparently a dude in my local group has a shinko 244 on his Sherman S and runs it tubeless, and he says it even tells you on the sidewall that it's a tubeless tire. IDK why it would say this when the website says it's tube type, but I'll give it a shot today when they arrive!

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20 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

it even tells you on the sidewall that it's a tubeless tire. IDK why it would say this when the website says it's tube type, but I'll give it a shot today when they arrive!

You can examine the inside tire wall. If it is tubeless, there will be "air-proofing" coating on it.

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11 minutes ago, techyiam said:

You can examine the inside tire wall. If it is tubeless, there will be "air-proofing" coating on it.

How does one recognize this coating from just rubber?

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45 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

How does one recognize this coating from just rubber?

I don't know if this applies to all scooter tires.

When I compared my CST Moped Tubeless tire to my stock V12 tube-type tire, I can see that the inside wall of the V12 tire is just plain natural rubber finish. In contrast, on the inside wall of the CST Moped Tubeless tire, there is thin translucent/semi-transparent coating on it.

Perhaps It is easier to tell difference when they are compared side-by-side. 

Edited by techyiam
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kinda late to the party, but these are the king song upgraded ball bearing sliders i received yesterday via my vendor freemotion.(free).

the installation looks easy but i want to do the linkage bolts at the same time if needed. 

glad these are nylon looking wheels.

no screws or circlips, and no pounding them on. 

6308EDB2-E1C1-4DEA-858E-2E28EE408CF2.thumb.jpeg.06c595c34121d4e04927241d8094ec56.jpeg

 

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13 hours ago, mrelwood said:

The simple fact of requiring a high pressure compressor to get the tire to seal is what drew me off, since I didn’t experience any benefits of riding tubeless.

I’ve had no problems seating and inflating the SN26 tire with a hand pump and have no issues with it losing pressure. The big advantage going tubeless as I see it is being able to fix a flat with a tire plug on the side of the trail. I’ve always found sealants a bit hit and miss. I carry a CO2 canister just in case I have problems inflating the tire with the hand pump, but I really doubt I’ll need it, given how easy it was to seal when I put it on.

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58 minutes ago, Levitate said:

I’ve had no problems seating and inflating the SN26 tire with a hand pump

IIRC the SN26 did have a wide natural posture (at least when new), so that it would hug against the rim even before inflation. It took me literally several hours and all kinds of tricks to get the initial seal happen on the H666. Man was I exhausted after that! So it clearly varies by tire.

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So today I tried to install the shinko 244 and had some issues. On my Sherman S it seems the rim is designed in such a way that tires can stretch over the inner shoulder and get a proper seal, but the inner shoulder of the S22 rim is a bit smaller so almost nothing is seating. I decided to cleanly wrap 3 turns of gorilla tape on the shoulders of the rim and now the tires seal perfectly with a nice "POP". Gonna throw some tire slime in it just in case there's any tiny leaks (couldn't find any with the soapy water). Weird that it's designed this way, but at least it's fixable.

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1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Weird that it's designed this way

Unfortunately that’s a common issue in the design of almost all EUC rims. At least with a tubed tire that’s not much of an issue though, as long as the tire is manually centered after installing.

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4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

IIRC the SN26 did have a wide natural posture (at least when new), so that it would hug against the rim even before inflation. It took me literally several hours and all kinds of tricks to get the initial seal happen on the H666

I went for an 80/80 which may also make a difference. At the same time as getting the SN26 I got a K66 in case I didn’t like the SN26, so I may well feel your pain when the time comes. For now I’m so happy with the SN26 I‘ll ride it until it wears out before I try the K66. The K66 I got is also 80/80, so it might be nice to compare that with your experience with the H666.

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/10/2023 at 2:18 AM, MrMonoWheel said:

Well after riding the Michelin pilot street 2 I can say it's not for me. It makes the wheel feel like it's always pulling vertical, putting some weird strain on my hip joints while trying to turn. I got a CST 186 to throw on and run tubeless (same setup as my Sherman S) but on the S22 it doesn't work tubeless. The inner rim lip diameter is a bit short so the tire doesn't have to stretch (and seal) over it. I have a set of shinko 244s coming but realized they aren't tubeless rated either so they probably won't work. For now I reverted it back to tubed with the CST and it's fine. Disappointed though.

Any good 50/50 knobbies that I can run tubeless on the S22?

What size were you using of the Street 2? And were you coming from the stock knobby or stock street tire?

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Hi guys,

I already almost gone through my first tire with my S22pro. I love the stock tire but I was thinking to try something else just for experience. I want to use off road or hybrid. I don't want to mess with tubeless installation, so I will stick with a tube. I was thinking about the Duro HF 307 trail tire or the Shinko 244. I have a few questions:

1 - Anyone have tried and have an opinion on those 2 tire ?( Duro vs Shinko)

2 - Any other suggestion that worth the try?

3-  Do you know the name and the model of the S22 stock tire? It's dumb, but I can not find those infos on the tire itself.

 

Thanks for you help

 

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36 minutes ago, Meso said:

Hi guys,

I already almost gone through my first tire with my S22pro. I love the stock tire but I was thinking to try something else just for experience. I want to use off road or hybrid. I don't want to mess with tubeless installation, so I will stick with a tube. I was thinking about the Duro HF 307 trail tire or the Shinko 244. I have a few questions:

1 - Anyone have tried and have an opinion on those 2 tire ?( Duro vs Shinko)

2 - Any other suggestion that worth the try?

3-  Do you know the name and the model of the S22 stock tire? It's dumb, but I can not find those infos on the tire itself.

 

Thanks for you help

 

I now have a Michelin Citypro 2 which is a very good street tire with rougher pattern. However, I ride a lot on the trails and after a couple of slips I felt that a rougher textured tire could be better on the trails, so I ordered a Shinko 241 for testing based on this Supercurios post

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/19972-18x3-street-tires-msupers-shermans-s22-etc/page/6/#comment-478212

Shinko 244 should be good also.

I had to change the stock tyre because it drops fast when turning hard due a flat profile. Round profile tyres like Shinkos are much more linear and predictable when turning. 

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I have good things to say about the 241, a great amount of responsiveness and tons of grip on hard dirt. Loose sand still a problem but doable at low speed if not too deep. Would be curious to try the 244.

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On 8/3/2023 at 2:49 PM, Meso said:

Hi guys,

I already almost gone through my first tire with my S22pro. I love the stock tire but I was thinking to try something else just for experience. I want to use off road or hybrid. I don't want to mess with tubeless installation, so I will stick with a tube. I was thinking about the Duro HF 307 trail tire or the Shinko 244. I have a few questions:

1 - Anyone have tried and have an opinion on those 2 tire ?( Duro vs Shinko)

2 - Any other suggestion that worth the try?

3-  Do you know the name and the model of the S22 stock tire? It's dumb, but I can not find those infos on the tire itself.

 

Thanks for you help

 

Shinko 244 was FANTASTIC! Swapped the stock knobby for it and it was great for my street riding and held up easily on trails. Also sounded cool while riding haha.

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Man o man I’ve used the Pirelli Angel on my S-18 and now on my S-22. I was riding in Spokane Washington in the snow and ice. Sticks like glue. Off road the only place it doesn’t work is in mud or deep sand. 
Now I’m in Austin Texas mostly riding my S-22. Works great as a tubeless which gives me a smoother ride. I ride 90% on the streets and dry trail’s now in Austin. It’s very nimble which the knobby was not. 
Has anyone noticed the difference with the new firmware update? Seems to take off much faster and a lot easier to reach top speed or is just me?

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