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i got a tracking number from inmotion on the kickstand they are sending me, so good on them.

i also asked about "fancy" mode that they said they'd assist me when they return from holiday with that. 

i explained i'd probably never leave my private property and be happy to sign a waiver.

hopefully they aren't vengeful and shut off my wheel doing 60mph. might do some freespin tests before riding, haha.

but they were very nice and cordial as was i and also express continued interest in a dealership or better yet, manufacturing here. i'd pay more for american assembled, but probably would cost $10k and still have defects. so, maybe not. everything nowadays seems to be a ford. fix or repair daily. it's tiring.

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speaking of pedals and shoe position on the pedals. since i drive using the balls and insteps of my feet, shoe positioning is real important. why i don't like spikes. and i suck at freemounting. 

i carefully place each shoe visually where i know i'm pefectly balanced standing normally. no forward or rearward bias. so my toes hang over alot with my size 12 van's. i line up the stitching on these van's with the front inside corner.

697D8080-0EC7-460B-8D77-6F038451FA15.jpeg.42e3f9866391e8a79e6a9961ad406fce.jpeg83D7D1CB-21AF-492D-9A70-D5F39BEB5A25.jpeg.5e46021dcd36d7a93736775ff96c27a9.jpeg

 

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here's some tidbits. the stock knobby and tube are quite a bit heavier than running the michelin tubeless.

neltrek installed the michelin for me but unfortunately it's had a small leak from the get go, and he installed it with the knobby tube, and now it has over a pound of slime in it. 

i think when i change the michelin tire and install in tubeless i'll get less gyroscopic effects in the corners. more nimble. i can rell a difference between it and the new kmobby, in that respect.

 

stock knobby

31C373D6-28A8-4FB9-A752-69038A035F60.jpeg.24d37e289ac2ec37fd0c3bdb9b98aaf1.jpeg

 

 

michelin

 

E2320E2D-92E3-42ED-8E9D-FA0F572D2794.jpeg.efad59c2afff221c9b47afae702c866c.jpeg

 

0B7455F1-B858-4CEB-9594-7E77DFD83951.jpeg.ac4e8deb7b16176c5f0db92303a46f0d.jpeg

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not that amazon needs my help but after fiddling with the too short ball end 2.5 mm wrench inmotion gives u for the slider adjustment u already have to stand on ur head to do, 

i just ordered this next day from amazon for $5.32 delivered.

D3527C61-3FAC-4838-BFEE-CCED3BBF5084.thumb.jpeg.a980480caeb93eed12b8c27bae17ff3f.jpeg

 

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On 9/27/2023 at 3:18 PM, techyiam said:

Shouldn't your S22 with roller sliders, and a softer spring rate give a cushier ride?

Going out on a limb to say: probably ANY shock system's success level depends on the manufacturer's implementation. The V13 floats over obstacles if it's a little underinflated...

On 9/28/2023 at 5:09 PM, novazeus said:

makes it much easier to drive with ur feet. 

as opposed to driving with... ? hands? telekinesis? angry shouting? :huh::)

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8 hours ago, novazeus said:

speaking of pedals and shoe position on the pedals. since i drive using the balls and insteps of my feet, shoe positioning is real important. why i don't like spikes. and i suck at freemounting. 

i carefully place each shoe visually where i know i'm pefectly balanced standing normally. no forward or rearward bias. so my toes hang over alot with my size 12 van's. i line up the stitching on these van's with the front inside corner.

697D8080-0EC7-460B-8D77-6F038451FA15.jpeg.42e3f9866391e8a79e6a9961ad406fce.jpeg83D7D1CB-21AF-492D-9A70-D5F39BEB5A25.jpeg.5e46021dcd36d7a93736775ff96c27a9.jpeg

 

IDK how you ride without pads. Braking must be like stopping a bullet train... I know what you mean about ease of bailing, but you don't have to have your feet locked in like jump pads. Having the upper parts to shin and calve against is a different thing. Feet come out easily. OTOH, seated riding is more of a challenge with pads in the way.

ANNNND... since you mentioned you have a suspension delete kit, ANNNNNNND since you are clearly a tinkerer... you should take the suspension off of one of your wheels for a day or two. Takes a half hour to change and negative time to adapt. Try it just for gits and shiggles. Different wheel. Please report back if you do.

Edited by UPONIT
antidisestablishmentarianism
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9 hours ago, novazeus said:

as promised, here's first batch suspension compared to the latest batch.

I think I can indeed see some binding on the first one. I’m sure you have already set the left/right shock pressures and damper adjustments to be exactly the same in both sides. But do I recall correctly that you used a lubricant on the slider rails? Or was it with your S22? Anyway, oil based wet lubes attract dirt and all kinds of stuff, which will impair the sliding properties in time.

 But, I really don’t know what could cause the difference, other than perhaps manufacturing tolerances. Or maybe they have indeed improved the system in a minor way. But like I said, they haven’t changed it to a “hydraulic“ system.

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15 hours ago, novazeus said:

and i promise u @Punxatawneyjoeif i unlock fancy mode, i'll help u unlock urs.

btw, i shot some comparison videos i'll post here once my snail internet uploads.

Thank you for the offer, I am sure i will be able to through ewheels when i am ready. Thanks for the video comparison also. As @mrelwood said , it looks like the first one is binding a little and also looks like the dampeners are set higher limiting the bounce. It does look like a noticeable difference. Have you tried to deflate  the shocks entirely and rest it on its side so you can move the wheel in and out to see if there is any resistance?  Mrelwood also raises a good point about the sliders having grease on them from the factory and i know you have a lot of sugar sand in that area. I ended up cleaning all of the grease off of mine and replaced it with 3m 08897 dry lube, several coats because i do a lot of off road riding and didn't want sand and dirt to get stuck to the sliders. Lastly, make sure there isn't any oil leaking from the damper side, i had that problem in the beginning. You can see the oil around the caps at the bottom if it's leaking.

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28 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

any oil leaking from the damper side

i'll look at that today hopefully. it was waay worse as delivered. this is as good as i thought it gets, until this latest batch version arrived. is there oil in there? i'm clueless.

and i've ridden and owned quite a few non suspension wheels and they are fine for what they are, but idk why u would buy a suspension anything and remove the suspension for grins. i'm definitely not a tinkerer, just more of a fixer. why i ordered the first one with the michelin installed, but alas no warranty on tires. so now i'll eventually have to change the tire myself when the slime quits holding. why i haven't changed the sliders on the s22. 

it's not the lube on the sliders. this street wheel has very little exposure to sand. 

i have a hunch, based on the guy adding oil to the air suspension, that by doing that it reduces the friction of the piston seals inside. and maybe inmotion started adding a little oil compatible with whatever is inside, and not tell 1st batch owners. like the screen protector non chalantly in with my new one. idk, don't yell at me, i just know it feels waay better than my first one. which is great, because i know the first one can be better. and it's pretty fine now. 

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21 minutes ago, novazeus said:

. is there oil in there? i'm clueless

Yes, the v13 has 2 air "shocks" to suspend the wheel and 2 oil filled dampening "shocks" as well. Those are the ones that you can adjust from the top. The air ones hold the wheel up and the oil ones dampen the rebound action. I'm not sure what adding oil to the air shock chamber would do. But since oil doesn't compress like air, i would imagine you would have a much greater chance of blowing out the chamber upon compression or it would drastically stiffen the compression travel. Just my opinion though, i have never experimented with this.

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18 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

2 oil filled dampening "shocks"

maybe that's what i'm feeling.

either way i'm excited about riding again because again like today, it's just too hot outside for anything. but soon it will be beautiful here and i'll play with the suspension on the first batch v13. if anybody else has first batch, please try this latest batch with the screen protector and non removable spikes, idk how else to differentiate, and pls report ur findings. everything else seems to be identical except the slime filled street tire wants to stand up more vertical in the corners.

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still too hot to ride but i was killing time on the new one waiting on fedex to deliver $2000 worth of bluetti panels so i can put $4500 worth in my dumpster. 

anyway after putting more miles on this new one, if inmotion would trade me straight up for my old one with the michelin street pilot 2 on it, for a brand new whatever batch my new one is with the knobby, i'd trade in a heartbeat.

now after a few miles, the knobby wore in at 42psi(and u gotta remember, there's no such thing as filling a tire cold in florida, unless u wait for a cold rare day in winter or have a walk in cooler)and i much prefer the stock knobby to the michelin. 

like i said earlier about the michelin, had it been stock on the v13, humans would have  hated it. inmotion knew what they were doing picking this tire. excellent choice properly inflated to 40psi cold. nice and round profile, ten times, or a hundred times easier to learn on than my original one at 47 psi on the michelin. i have the scars. 

anyway, my review of the latest batch of v13, best wheel i've ever ridden, not even close to the others. tire, suspension, everything. might add a bluetooth speaker down low. at $3419.20 delivered, compared to what i see online, i think it's a great bargain. not for jump tracks though, although @Josiahhas defied all norms. btw, i have more nubs for u if needed.

i'd recommend this new one as a first wheel. 

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well, that saved me some money. u know i bought this wheel from a dealer with other v13's at their disposal to check out with the one they sent me.

so i know what happened, trying to eliminate the rattling, i adjusted the sliders. using the too small tool inmotion provided. i had no idea what tension the sliders sb, so using the adjuster that wasn't flopping around, i decided that must be the correct tension. so now with a better tool, went out several turns on both, and checked it, and that indeed was the problem. delivered completely loose and valve not fastened on the shock, and the other side too tight on the adjusters. i haven't felt the new one yet, don't wanna touch it, it's so perfect. 

i'd still like another stock v13. so i might sell my s22 and s18, which are great, but i won't be riding them anymore. 

so ur right @mrelwood, best i can tell, with the v13 on it's side, with a decent tool, the klein is a bit too long, just barely touching seems to be the magic. too loose being better than snug.

this is what i use for euc lubricant for sliders. rem oil works best on the stock s22 sliders.

1B4A0CB4-A70C-4FFA-B1E2-0E1B46721E35.jpeg.89e102f64cd43545eeb88a9328e67a49.jpegB18E0B59-D523-4FC9-9F80-AE32613F292C.jpeg.96ee660d2a4cb28f567dac4f049c66df.jpegD7013A6A-8314-4821-9BF5-9FD4D840DDB3.jpeg.fd6dd7f6b0b38f7be45cb7befb8bef78.jpeg

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6 hours ago, novazeus said:

ok, i'm on the right path i think with the 1st batch v13 street, but i wonder if anyone has tried this?

What he’s doing is decreasing the main chamber cavity. What it’ll mainly do is decrease the suspension travel. No idea why someone would want to do that. For lubricating the seals on the piston you only need a tiny amount of oil.

 There actually is usually some leftover oil already in the air shock, so if you just keep the wheel upside down for a while, it might already lube the piston. But you can put in a very small amount of additional oil if you want to make sure it reaches the piston.

 Don’t forget, lubeing the top seal around the shaft is at least as important as the piston.
 

6 hours ago, novazeus said:

 if i was gonna experiment, i'd try a lubricant like this.

540D20C8-ABE1-409A-8645-E7A045A734E2.thumb.jpeg.fd5e23b2c7d292a448f7355a7a34d3ce.jpeg

That looks like it’s a damper fluid though, not for lubeing the seals.

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For the sake of anyones good, I would like to encourage everyone who intends to experiment with pouring "oil" into an air suspension to familiarize themselves thoroughly with what dieseling means.  Anyone playing with airguns knows what this is. 

"

When Shock Absorber works, the Gas Column compresses & decompresses repeatedly at every road bump causing heat generation.

The heat of the compressed gas can burn the oil present. This phenomenon is called “Dieseling” (just like the working of a Diesel Engine).

"

 

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2 hours ago, Robse said:

For the sake of anyones good, I would like to encourage everyone who intends to experiment with pouring "oil" into an air suspension to familiarize themselves thoroughly with what dieseling means.  Anyone playing with airguns knows what this is. 

"

When Shock Absorber works, the Gas Column compresses & decompresses repeatedly at every road bump causing heat generation.

The heat of the compressed gas can burn the oil present. This phenomenon is called “Dieseling” (just like the working of a Diesel Engine).

"

 

Dieseling is just the ignition of an air/fuel mixture via sufficient heat generated by compression alone without a spark (plasma) to ignite it.

Dieseling is not like the burning of a match, but rather like the propagation of a flame front in combustion. There is a violently rapid pressure rise associated with it.

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4 hours ago, techyiam said:

Dieseling is just the ignition of an air/fuel mixture via sufficient heat generated by compression alone without a spark (plasma) to ignite it.

Dieseling is not like the burning of a match, but rather like the propagation of a flame front in combustion. There is a violently rapid pressure rise associated with it.

that's exactly what I want to point out, well seen :-) :P

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9 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I was surprised today when i had a 119amp acceleration. I thought it was only possible to hit 12,000w in fancy mode.  Strange that there was no beeps or tiltback. I know @Forwardnbak has hit 12,500w before but that was in fancy mode.

119-amp-run.jpg

this was normal mode last week 

IMG_9748.jpeg

Edited by Forwardnbak
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didn't ride today, thank u canada, but i just wanted to say how happy i am with this latest stock version v13. love the tire. the michelin is fun, but for a commuter wheel, i can't imagine a better wheel than this last batch. def needs a kick stand though.

if i ever need to actually leave the ranch, i'm definitely taking this new one. it's the easy rider.

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On 9/30/2023 at 7:23 AM, novazeus said:

but idk why u would buy a suspension anything and remove the suspension for grins.

1. Because it is easy.

2. Because you have the kit already. The manufacturer thought it was worthwhile enough to make it an easy changeover.

3. Because otherwise you will never experience one of the modes your wheel was made to ride in.

4. Because otherwise you will never know if you love the handling more than you love the suspension mode handling. (There is a non-zero chance you will.)

5. Because you are curious.

6. Because you believe in trying out all the options on something you own.

7. Because it is a DIFFERENT wheel without the suspension.

8. Because it is beyond your comprehension why someone wouldn't just TRY something that is easily available to them, that they have never experienced.

9. Because you've been told it is and extremely fun mode and there is no downside to just TRYING something. 

10. Because you like grins.

Reasons NOT to try it out:

1. Because you don't like knowing things, especially the capabilities of your vehicle. 

2. Because you might like suspensionless mode, and you don't like liking things?

3. Because when you buy a convertible, you never put the top down.

4. Because when you buy a 4 wheel drive pickup truck, you never engage the 4WD.

5. Because when you buy a JEEP, you never take off the doors?

:D

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