Inmotion V13 Speculation

[rebeuc]

1 minute ago, Josiah said:

Ewheels

With fixed bolts, or were you the one who opted for the stock bolts to fix it yourself later?

[HEC]

4 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Got tracking number yesterday.  Will have the V13 Friday!

Congratulations! I hope to have mine by Friday too, it's a "race" ... 🏁

[Josiah]

@rebeuc I opted out.

@HEC Congratulations to you too.

Edited February 9, 2023 by Josiah

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 minute ago, HEC said:

Congratulations! I hope to have mine by Friday too, it's a "race" ... 🏁

Ok, but you two have to start over here on the east coast first....

Mines not coming until next Tuesday..

[Josiah]

@Punxatawneyjoe @HEC

Let’s have another race after we get the wheels!

Edited February 9, 2023 by Josiah

[rebeuc]

19 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The v13 is looking pretty nimble for a big old girl.

Johnny Go Vroom

Huh; I just realized that at around the 7:20 mark when he goes over a jump on the dirt path it says 'Please Repair'; that's always a concerning one to hear

Earlier (I didn't note the timestamp) it said 'please be careful' when he was jumping a curb; I'm surprised it stayed balancing, in my experience the inmotion wheels normally only say that when they've tilted past cutoff angle.

[Josiah]

I didn’t know the wheel would talk to us.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

6 minutes ago, rebeuc said:

says 'Please Repair'

It's" please prepare" and it usually does it when it's about to kick you off the wheel because it was fully charged and you started down a hill first. I had it do it to me on the v11 a few times but it usually results in a tiltback forcing you to stop and get off before it shuts down. Interesting though, i hadn't noticed it until you said it. The "be careful one usually sounds if there is a tilt or a freespin. The freespin makes sense off the curb.

[GHOSTTE]

2 minutes ago, Josiah said:

I didn’t know the wheel would talk to us.

Wait until one of us pulls a "Her" with the wheel and falls in love with it.

 

[rebeuc]

2 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

It's" please prepare" and it usually does it when it's about to kick you off the wheel because it was fully charged and you started down a hill first. I had it do it to me on the v11 a few times but it usually results in a tiltback forcing you to stop and get off before it shuts down. Interesting though, i hadn't noticed it until you said it. The "be careful one usually sounds if there is a tilt or a freespin. The freespin makes sense off the curb.

I watched through more of the video and it does it a bunch more times when he is going off jumps.

Twice in succession around 8:38 and then a handful of other times.

To be fair I've never quite bumps/curbs as fast as this guy, but I've never had my v10f (or v11) wheel say that to me

[HEC]

2 minutes ago, Josiah said:

I didn’t know the wheel would talk to us.

Yeah, the first thing you'll hear after unpacking is "Please active your vehicle" prompt, which always makes me chuckle as it's been there for so many years without correction...

[conecones]

Some tips for motor screw replacement:

Specs for the motor screws are the following: M6x20, 90 deg countersink/flat head type, Grade 12.9. IM recommended torque of 17Nm w/threadlocker, which to me seems high. 17Nm matches the common torque spec for a socket cap (non-recessed) M6 screw but this chart recommends 10.5Nm for the flat head/recessed type. I'm not an expert on why this is the case, but personally I would pick a lower value of around 12Nm and use a stronger threadlocker.

Dropping the motor requires removal of a dozen screws, and only the top cover needs to be unscrewed. Top cover can remain attached, no need to remove completely (if you do want it out, you will need to remove rear light (4 more screws) to access the connector). I recommend sliding the motor out with the wheel laying on its side, as the video showing lifting the chassis up only works well for removal but not for the reinstall - your back will be feeling the pain as you repeatedly raise and lower the chassis (with batteries still attached) while trying to align the sliders and fish the wires through.

Another tip is the sequence for the air piston & damper removal/reinstall:
1) Deflate air pistons before removing the damper retaining nut and air piston screw (otherwise the pressure may strip threads).
2) Drop motor & reinstall motor with deflated air pistons.
3) Reinstall damper retaining nut first. If you don't do this first before inflating air piston, the air piston will push the chassis up and you won't be able to reach the threads of the damper. After installing damper retaining nut, you can now try installing the air piston screw at this point but if you have issues, see next.
4) Inflate air pistons lightly (a few pumps will do) The purpose for this is to raise the air piston rod so that you can reinstall the air piston screw from the topside. If the piston is fully deflated (step 3), the piston rod can get pushed down when reinstalling the motor and be too far for the air piston screw to reach.

[HEC]

3 minutes ago, GHOSTTE said:

Wait until one of us pulls a "Her" with the wheel and falls in love with it.

Too late, there are many of us in love with our talkative Inmotion wheels already ... 💖

[GHOSTTE]

1 minute ago, HEC said:

Too late, there are many of us in love with our talkative Inmotion wheels already ... 💖

Just keep it PG

[GHOSTTE]

None of this @HEC mkay?

 

 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

8 minutes ago, rebeuc said:

my v10f (or v11) wheel say that to me

Yeah, strange . I have never had it say it to me jumping curbs or going off road like he does and i do that mostly. Usually when i stop i just drop it on it's side and that's when it says "be careful" and spinkills. Trust me i've abused this wheel.

[Josiah]

InMotion App the best way to go or a third party app? 

[novazeus]

19 minutes ago, conecones said:

Some tips for motor screw replacement:

Specs for the motor screws are the following: M6x20, 90 deg countersink/flat head type, Grade 12.9. IM recommended torque of 17Nm w/threadlocker, which to me seems high. 17Nm matches the common torque spec for a socket cap (non-recessed) M6 screw but this chart recommends 10.5Nm for the flat head/recessed type. I'm not an expert on why this is the case, but personally I would pick a lower value of around 12Nm and use a stronger threadlocker.

Dropping the motor requires removal of a dozen screws, and only the top cover needs to be unscrewed. Top cover can remain attached, no need to remove completely (if you do want it out, you will need to remove rear light (4 more screws) to access the connector). I recommend sliding the motor out with the wheel laying on its side, as the video showing lifting the chassis up only works well for removal but not for the reinstall - your back will be feeling the pain as you repeatedly raise and lower the chassis (with batteries still attached) while trying to align the sliders and fish the wires through.

Another tip is the sequence for the air piston & damper removal/reinstall:
1) Deflate air pistons before removing the damper retaining nut and air piston screw (otherwise the pressure may strip threads).
2) Drop motor & reinstall motor with deflated air pistons.
3) Reinstall damper retaining nut first. If you don't do this first before inflating air piston, the air piston will push the chassis up and you won't be able to reach the threads of the damper. After installing damper retaining nut, you can now try installing the air piston screw at this point but if you have issues, see next.
4) Inflate air pistons lightly (a few pumps will do) The purpose for this is to raise the air piston rod so that you can reinstall the air piston screw from the topside. If the piston is fully deflated (step 3), the piston rod can get pushed down when reinstalling the motor and be too far for the air piston screw to reach.

how long did this take u to do all this? jason has a bunch i guess he's gonna do for customers, plus he's rebuilding s22's with new sliders and motors. he's got to be busy as can be.

[Cerbera]

56 minutes ago, Josiah said:

InMotion App the best way to go or a third party app? 

Apps do different things. You need the manufacturer's app, AND one that does all the things that doesn't, typically EUC World (my pick) or Darknessbot.

[HEC]

13 minutes ago, Josiah said:

InMotion App the best way to go or a third party app? 

I use Inmotion app to activate / register the wheel, update firmware and set advanced configuration like LED side lights (not present on V13) or custom voice prompts ("I'm your father!"). For everything else and most of all daily riding, alarms and remote button controls I use EUC World. 

[Eyss]

2 hours ago, Josiah said:

I didn’t know the wheel would talk to us.

You could also change the language. On my V10f I tried the 'korean (funny)' one which was indeed pretty funny. 

[2disbetter]

If the normal behavior when an Inmotion wheel says be prepared is to throw you off, and that is not happening on the V13, well I guess that is just another testament to the things insane safety margins (relative). Also the Jonny go Vroom guy seems like a good dude, who is having a positive effect on the people he meets. That's rad! 

[Josiah]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NhT3VMAR4wo

Some good insight from Dawn. She hit 56 mph on Challenger.

Edited February 9, 2023 by Josiah

[GHOSTTE]

1 hour ago, Josiah said:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NhT3VMAR4wo

Some good insight from Dawn. She hit 56 mph on Challenger.

Wonder if it'll still hit 56 mph with someone that isn't smol

[conecones]

16 hours ago, novazeus said:

how long did this take u to do all this? jason has a bunch i guess he's gonna do for customers, plus he's rebuilding s22's with new sliders and motors. he's got to be busy as can be.

On first attempt, 30 mins to remove motor. 15 mins to inspect original motor bolts (I didn't replace, I just inspected and re-torqued). 30 mins to put back (I struggled with the air piston, hence my tips above). This was done using the side of a couch and on the floor using supplied allen keys. It would be reasonable to keep this process under 1 hr/wheel in a dedicated workstation using electric screw drivers.