INMOTION V12

[Wolverine]

On 7/13/2022 at 5:51 AM, neophile_17 said:

Hello Fellow Riders,

I have to ask because we haven't had a new post in 3 weeks.  Has everyone with a batch 1 or 2 wheel gotten a new board or sent their wheel back for service?  I suspect that it's not just me and I'm being paranoid but maybe/hopefully everyone else is enjoying their wheel problem free.  I know I'm looking forward to that day, even if it is a year later than expected.

Sam

Hello fellow rider,

Unfortunately, the problem is not resolved, please take a look at this thread:

 

[Waulnut]

On 7/12/2022 at 7:51 PM, neophile_17 said:

Hello Fellow Riders,

I have to ask because we haven't had a new post in 3 weeks.  Has everyone with a batch 1 or 2 wheel gotten a new board or sent their wheel back for service?  I suspect that it's not just me and I'm being paranoid but maybe/hopefully everyone else is enjoying their wheel problem free.  I know I'm looking forward to that day, even if it is a year later than expected.

Sam

I just passed my 1000th mile with old stock board still. Ewheels didn't get back to me about a replacement and I'll prob follow up again soon. I would like to get the full board+heat sink instead of the board only  

[Robert RFI]

On 7/12/2022 at 10:51 PM, neophile_17 said:

Hello Fellow Riders,

I have to ask because we haven't had a new post in 3 weeks.  Has everyone with a batch 1 or 2 wheel gotten a new board or sent their wheel back for service?  I suspect that it's not just me and I'm being paranoid but maybe/hopefully everyone else is enjoying their wheel problem free.  I know I'm looking forward to that day, even if it is a year later than expected.

Sam

Hello,

   Mine has been running great, except bad wobbles at 20-22 MPH which I have not been able to work through as of yet. I think mine was batch 2 and came with updated mosfits.

[rolis]

Took my v12 and my old v5f on vacation for the first time. It is so much better to go somewhere with a wheel!

The video did not fit into the 3mb limit

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgASwXuKL38/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[Steve Evans]

On 7/13/2022 at 1:21 AM, spitfire1337 said:

I'm still waiting on my replacement. Been 7 months now since mine died.

whaaaaat??? i got mine back in may. my wheel died 3 weeks prior to getting the new board. my vendor was ewheels.

i have put on several hundred miles since the board swap without issues. sorry you have been waiting so long.

[Steve Evans]

On 7/12/2022 at 10:51 PM, neophile_17 said:

Hello Fellow Riders,

I have to ask because we haven't had a new post in 3 weeks.  Has everyone with a batch 1 or 2 wheel gotten a new board or sent their wheel back for service?  I suspect that it's not just me and I'm being paranoid but maybe/hopefully everyone else is enjoying their wheel problem free.  I know I'm looking forward to that day, even if it is a year later than expected.

Sam

my understanding is that the new board has solved the vast majority of cutouts due to blown mosfets. there have been one or two outlier reports of issues tho. not sure the v12 is now any less reliable than other wheels out there. they all have their issues.

btw, i have about 500 miles on the new driver board without any issues.

hope this helps,

steve

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by evans036

[Chriull]

30 minutes ago, evans036 said:

my understanding is that the new board has solved the vast majority of cutouts due to blown mosfets. there have been one or two outlier reports of issues tho. not sure the v12 is now any less reliable than other wheels out there. they all have their issues.

btw, i have about 500 miles on the new driver board without any issues.

hope this helps,

steve

 

Yes, hopefully for many it's the situation you experienced!

Unfortionately by far not for all.

And especially not for the batch @EcoDrift, a big russian EUC distributor got...

[Shane Dougherty]

I'm still waiting.  Purchased from Chicway. Once they get them it's still going to take a month to get to me in Canada. I'm hoping it comes with the heat sink like some of the latest ones seem to be? 

[Hellkitten]

22 minutes ago, Shane Dougherty said:

I'm still waiting.  Purchased from Chicway. Once they get them it's still going to take a month to get to me in Canada. I'm hoping it comes with the heat sink like some of the latest ones seem to be? 

There’s an almost new one listed on kijiji Toronto right now. 

[pico]

I have received my new board with the heatsink included.

Well packed and look pretty well built and assembled.

No complaints for the moment...

I may have wanted more static protection or warnings...

[spitfire1337]

I just got notice yesterday that my replacement from alienrides is being shipped. Should have mine back up and running again within a week.

[spitfire1337]

16 hours ago, evans036 said:

whaaaaat??? i got mine back in may. my wheel died 3 weeks prior to getting the new board. my vendor was ewheels.

i have put on several hundred miles since the board swap without issues. sorry you have been waiting so long.

I got mine from alienrides back in late December, the wheel died the first week of January lol. I did however just get notice yesterday that my new controller is on the way and should be here early next week 🙃 

[spitfire1337]

Has anyone thays replaced their controller had any issues with the battery packs?

After my swap, the wheel wouldn't turn on. I placed it on the charger and connected to EUC world, the batteries where at 65.4v, when the controller dies the battery was around 90%. I've left it to charge overnight and it's gone to 95%/98.2v with the charger showing green. There's been a diagnostics error since I put it on the charger stating "Failure to turn off normally, you may need to replace the battery"

I've left it still on the charger and there's been no changes to either packs voltage over the last 3 hours since I woke up. About 30 minutes ago, the wheel started saying "please repair" and another error popped up saying "Failure to charge normally, you may need to replace the battery or the charger"

The wheel does turn on and balance normally, I have not tried riding it yet though.

 

current errors:

When first plugged in:

Current state:

[techyiam]

35 minutes ago, spitfire1337 said:

Has anyone thays replaced their controller had any issues with the battery packs?

After my swap, the wheel wouldn't turn on. I placed it on the charger and connected to EUC world, the batteries where at 65.4v, when the controller dies the battery was around 90%. I've left it to charge overnight and it's gone to 95%/98.2v with the charger showing green. There's been a diagnostics error since I put it on the charger stating "Failure to turn off normally, you may need to replace the battery"

I've left it still on the charger and there's been no changes to either packs voltage over the last 3 hours since I woke up. About 30 minutes ago, the wheel started saying "please repair" and another error popped up saying "Failure to charge normally, you may need to replace the battery or the charger"

The wheel does turn on and balance normally, I have not tried riding it yet though.

 

current errors:

When first plugged in:

 

Current state:

 

Since your batteries were sitting for so long, I believe you should have charged each pack separately in turn.

Since it is turning green too early, perhaps you can disconnect one battery pack and charge the other, and see what happens. I always charge with the charger plugged into an AC watt meter. I let it charge until the wattage doesn't go down anymore. For me, it is around 10 W. Check your charged battery voltage. Switch battery connection to charge the remaining battery pack. Compare voltage readings. Mine read 100.3 V for both packs.

[Tawpie]

I'd call AR, take advantage of that 2 year warranty. You paid extra for warranty service, and the wheel isn't working properly.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Tawpie

[spitfire1337]

8 hours ago, Tawpie said:

I'd call AR, take advantage of that 2 year warranty. You paid extra for warranty service, and the wheel isn't working properly.

 

10 hours ago, techyiam said:

Since your batteries were sitting for so long, I believe you should have charged each pack separately in turn.

Since it is turning green too early, perhaps you can disconnect one battery pack and charge the other, and see what happens. I always charge with the charger plugged into an AC watt meter. I let it charge until the wattage doesn't go down anymore. For me, it is around 10 W. Check your charged battery voltage. Switch battery connection to charge the remaining battery pack. Compare voltage readings. Mine read 100.3 V for both packs.

Issue is resolved, I took it for a ride and drained some of the battery. Came back and put it on the charger again. Still only showed 98.2v and the charger shut off. I then opened it up and tried 1 battery at a time. But first disconnected both batteries. This cleared my diagnostic errors. Each pack was still showing under voltage and not charging anymore with them plugged in one at a time.

Since inmotion wheels shutoff the battery output when the wheel is off I couldn't check the voltage with a voltmeter while they're disconnected. So I plugged both packs in, and plugged the charger to get the controller to turn on since I had the top off. I was able to get my voltmeter besides the wires and down to the pins of the batteries to get a reading. One pack was at 100.6 and the other at 100.5. Which leads to a calibration issue with the board. I'll be reaching out to AR so I can get IM to calibrate them.

Wheel is back together now with no diagnostics errors and just a miscalibrated voltage reading.

[wheel-life]

On 7/12/2022 at 10:51 PM, neophile_17 said:

Hello Fellow Riders,

I have to ask because we haven't had a new post in 3 weeks.  Has everyone with a batch 1 or 2 wheel gotten a new board or sent their wheel back for service?  I suspect that it's not just me and I'm being paranoid but maybe/hopefully everyone else is enjoying their wheel problem free.  I know I'm looking forward to that day, even if it is a year later than expected.

Sam

Nothing here unfortunately. Wouldn't be as concerned if there weren't rumblings from a few reddit posts about recent lack of communication from ewheels. Hope that's just a temporary thing but really do want this thing fixed by August.

[techyiam]

On 7/20/2022 at 4:54 PM, spitfire1337 said:

Since inmotion wheels shutoff the battery output when the wheel is off I couldn't check the voltage with a voltmeter while they're disconnected. So I plugged both packs in, and plugged the charger to get the controller to turn on since I had the top off. I was able to get my voltmeter besides the wires and down to the pins of the batteries to get a reading. One pack was at 100.6 and the other at 100.5. Which leads to a calibration issue with the board. I'll be reaching out to AR so I can get IM to calibrate them.

I see. What you are saying is that there was nothing wrong with your battery packs all along. It was just the Inmotion app, due to calibration error, misreporting the voltages of the battery packs.

Congrats. You do fine work.

[Steve Evans]

23 hours ago, wheel-life said:

Nothing here unfortunately. Wouldn't be as concerned if there weren't rumblings from a few reddit posts about recent lack of communication from ewheels. Hope that's just a temporary thing but really do want this thing fixed by August.

ewheels gave priority to those with failed driver boards. i think (a little unfairly) those not riding due to risk of cutout have been waiting a loooong time. i was "lucky" in that i got the new driver board 3 weeks after the old one failed. i have now put 800 miles or so on the new board and 2800miles in total. no issues with the new board. very happy.

hope you get your new driver boards soon.

steve

 

[techyiam]

Here is an update on my V12 with the warranty replacement driver board installed. 

We are currently experiencing a heat wave. My Inmotion V12 is running best ever, and it seems to be running quite cool. My T3 got up to 53C, while the V12, 50C (60C for the mosfets). The cooling fan on the T3 was on. Note that V12's don't come with cooling fans. Also, when I installed the warranty driver board, I remove all thermal paste from the new thermal pad, no oem insulators, instead I used paper washers, and cyanoacrylate adhesive for electrically insulating the screws.

I think under similar ambient temperatures and riding conditions, temperatures may have been a bit higher on the V12 in the past. The crucial point is my V12 isn't running hot.

Edited July 28, 2022 by techyiam

[Waulnut]

Ewheels just sent out my replacement board with heat sink combo. Ive seen videos regarding the swap, but if anyone who has done the swap themselves, any other tips to keep me successful? I see it is plug and play, but hopefully silicone or anything else won't make it a difficult one. 

[techyiam]

3 hours ago, Waulnut said:

Ewheels just sent out my replacement board with heat sink combo. Ive seen videos regarding the swap, but if anyone who has done the swap themselves, any other tips to keep me successful? I see it is plug and play, but hopefully silicone or anything else won't make it a difficult 

For you then, you only have to watch out that you don't do damage when you remove the pedals, and carefully route the wires that are on top of the wheel.

You should be able to put back the small circuit board in the center on top of all the wires without squishing any wires. There is enough room if you route the wires correctly. When you close the top by mounting on the top piece, the component with the display, trolley handle, etc., look at underside. There is something like a wire that can squish the battery wires by the connector. Route the right side battery pack wires so that there is room.

There is no need to use a tool to remove the oem side pads, and possibly scratch the surfaces or damage the adhesive. There are no screws here. Use a pair of gloves that has good grip. Bend your body over the wheel, place your fingers on the bottom corner area on each side of the pad. Push the pad in with your fingers, and at the same time, slide up the pad. The pad will lossen fron the latches and come off.

But just for piece of mine, you may also want to use a multimeter to check that none of the mosfets are shorted to the heatsink.

Edited July 29, 2022 by techyiam

[Waulnut]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

For you then, you only have to watch out that you don't do damage when you remove the pedals, and carefully route the wires that are on top of the wheel.

You should be able to put back the small circuit board in the center on top of all the wires without squishing any wires. There is enough room if you route the wires correctly. When you close the top by mounting on the top piece, the component with the display, trolley handle, etc., look at underside. There is something like a wire that can squish the battery wires by the connector. Route the right side battery pack wires so that there is room.

There is no need to use a tool to remove the oem side pads, and possibly scratch the surfaces or damage the adhesive. There are no screws here. Use a pair of gloves that has good grip. Bend your body over the wheel, place your fingers on the bottom corner area on each side of the pad. Push the pad in with your fingers, and at the same time, slide up the pad. The pad will lossen fron the latches come come off.

But just for piece of mine, you may also want to use a multimeter to check that none of the mosfets are shorted to the heatsink.

Much appreciated for your insight!

[techyiam]

I finally decided that it was time to install the Inmotion spike pedals. I was dreading this task since I thought the pedal rods were seized in the pedals. To my surprise, I couldn't be more wrong. As it turned out, the high stiction was not due to corrosion, but rather a rubberized coating on the bore surfaces of the pedals. That is a nice touch. It gives the pedals a more premium feel. Also, it helped to prevent corrosion. However, the downside is that you do have to tap out the pedal rods. It is a straightforward procedure, but it is not as simple as removing the four pedal bolts, should the objective is only to remove the pedals in order to open up the wheel for service.

Unfortunately, the pedal bolts on mine was soft, so the threads can get deformed very easily. If you try losening the pedal screws, and find that after the initial crack, and losening, and the screws have high stiction when coming out, stop the procedure, and remove the pedal rod instead. That is, unless you know how to, and want to deal with the repair of the screws and possibly the tapped holes too.

Edited July 29, 2022 by techyiam

[EUC Phenomenon]

On 7/28/2022 at 4:33 PM, techyiam said:

I remove all thermal paste from the new thermal pad, no oem insulators, instead I used paper washers, and cyanoacrylate adhesive for electrically insulating the screws.

I haven't replaced my V12 board yet, as I don't trust those plastic insulators. So I'm considering doing it your method. I've been looking at the temperature resistance of cyanoacrylate adhesive and some brands can take up to 300 degrees, which is ample.

You wrote "apply super glue to just below the heads of the screws." Is the glue also on the bottom of the head?

Also, did you cut the washers to the same size of the screw head?