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INMOTION V12


Mike Roe

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50 minutes ago, Jumaxas said:

What is the best and most universal tire pressure for inmotion v12ht, my weight is 90-100kg. 70% asphalt, 30% bumpy road... ? 

I think 30 psi is usually a good starting point. The V12 HT has a 3.00-12 tire. That is a big tire, relatively speaking. Your rim shouldn’t dent, unless it is really bumpy and you are going fast. 

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On 8/13/2022 at 3:20 PM, techyiam said:

I see. In that case, do what you think is best.

Just curious, did you have a chance to look at the new warranty replacement board before it was installed? The new driver board should be black, and the old original board should be blue. 

I hope you have a quick and full recovery. 

 

Hi, I got a professional to open and check my V12.

I had a black replacement board, and 6 MOSFETs are dead (of 12).

Had to check with a voltmeter as nothing is wrong visually.

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23 hours ago, techyiam said:

I think 30 psi is usually a good starting point. The V12 HT has a 3.00-12 tire. That is a big tire, relatively speaking. Your rim shouldn’t dent, unless it is really bumpy and you are going fast. 

If it can help, I dented lightly my rim at 2.4 bar (34psi) taking a bad curb sub 10kpm. I usually ride at 2.9 bar (42psi), it's been great. (V12 HS, 95kg with gear)

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1 hour ago, vBlitz said:

If it can help, I dented lightly my rim at 2.4 bar (34psi) taking a bad curb sub 10kpm. I usually ride at 2.9 bar (42psi), it's been great. (V12 HS, 95kg with gear)

Taking on curbs is a whole different thing. And 10 km/h is fast for this kind of thing. You can dent or damage your rim easily.  You need experience and know what you are doing if you attempt such things.

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1 hour ago, vBlitz said:

Hi, I got a professional to open and check my V12.

I had a black replacement board, and 6 MOSFETs are dead (of 12).

Had to check with a voltmeter as nothing is wrong visually.

The important question to ask is, were any of the bad mosfet mounting tabs shorted to the heatsink? 

Edited by techyiam
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Hi all,

I have V12 early batch2, bought 2/2022 with original (100V) mosfets. Currently have on the clock 2500 kilometres without cutoff, but that's because I ride slow and with care, braking and speeding slowly.. 

I still do not have replacement board, the reseller still promising and giving me new dates (from June is already September), so I have decided I would bought the mosfets itself and I know guy in my country, who is capable (microsoldering) to swap the mosfets. Problem is, I have no idea where to buy mosfets TO-220 (I heard latest V12 has mix of TO-243 and TO-247).

Can you please help me? I am from EU

Thank you

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55 minutes ago, Desty said:

Hi all,

I have V12 early batch2, bought 2/2022 with original (100V) mosfets. Currently have on the clock 2500 kilometres without cutoff, but that's because I ride slow and with care, braking and speeding slowly.. 

I still do not have replacement board, the reseller still promising and giving me new dates (from June is already September), so I have decided I would bought the mosfets itself and I know guy in my country, who is capable (microsoldering) to swap the mosfets. Problem is, I have no idea where to buy mosfets TO-220 (I heard latest V12 has mix of TO-243 and TO-247).

Can you please help me? I am from EU

Thank you

If you are purposely riding slowly because you are worried, then why ride the V12 at all? Can you switch to the V10 or MSX instead while you wait for the official replacement? If not, I even suggest buying a slower/smaller used backup wheel to use in the meantime, because what you are suggesting is just going to add more risk to yourself. 

Also, if you have someone who can do this work, then that person should be the person ordering these parts as they should be very familiar with this. If they don't know where to buy a mosfet, I would not trust them to do this work.

But if you are committed to doing this unadvised work, then you can likely find what you need on Digikey as they ship worldwide. https://www.digikey.cz/

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3 hours ago, techyiam said:

The important question to ask is, were any of the bad mosfet mounting tabs shorted to the heatsink? 

Ok, I will get it checked.

In the meantime I have photos and some parts seems burnt.

Thanks you very much for the help by the way.

signal-2022-08-18-16-05-00-000-4.jpg

signal-2022-08-18-16-05-00-000-5.jpg

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5 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

Ok, I will get it checked.

In the meantime I have photos and some parts seems burnt.

Thanks you very much for the help by the way.

You are welcome. 

In the photos, the mosfets are no longer mounted on the heat sink. If the damaged black board is already removed from the heat sink, then it is too late to check now.

The reason I asked to check is because if any of the mosfets were shorted to the heat sink, then the fault lies with the installation of the black board.

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47 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

In the meantime I have photos and some parts seems burnt.

Very sorry to hear about your accident and do hope you are a fast healer. Yikes.

I don't know what the capacitor in the second picture does, but it's definitely blown up and there doesn't appear to be any sign of the board being smashed or otherwise misused. Take care of it, you might need it in the future to press your case.

I think you have a good argument for a warranty claim. I would make a big stink with your dealer and escalate to InMotion and any consumer protection agencies if the dealer is reluctant. Defective replacement part results in a broken arm, lost work time, InMotional damage etc. etc., the consequences are more than just replacing a bad part.

Edited by Tawpie
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2 hours ago, techyiam said:

You are welcome. 

In the photos, the mosfets are no longer mounted on the heat sink. If the damaged black board is already removed from the heat sink, then it is too late to check now.

The reason I asked to check is because if any of the mosfets were shorted to the heat sink, then the fault lies with the installation of the black board.

I feels dumb for not having thought of this before. I could've warned him. Now it's too late indeed.

2 hours ago, Tawpie said:

Very sorry to hear about your accident and do hope you are a fast healer. Yikes.

I don't know what the capacitor in the second picture does, but it's definitely blown up and there doesn't appear to be any sign of the board being smashed or otherwise misused. Take care of it, you might need it in the future to press your case.

I think you have a good argument for a warranty claim. I would make a big stink with your dealer and escalate to InMotion and any consumer protection agencies if the dealer is reluctant. Defective replacement part results in a broken arm, lost work time, InMotional damage etc. etc., the consequences are more than just replacing a bad part.

Thanks a lot, sadly I will not be able to ride for a whole year.

Yeah I don't know what component is this. I took back the wheel to the shop to get it analyzed (they sent me the photos). They will see what they can do with the importer. They should get back to me next week.

(My dispute is with the importer, not the shop. I bypassed the shop to get the wheel repaired more quickly taking an appointment directly with the importer.)

Anyway I'm studying my options to get compensated, it was a hard month. Still many months of rehab to do.

Thanks for the advices.

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4 hours ago, vBlitz said:

Ok, I will get it checked.

In the meantime I have photos and some parts seems burnt.

Thanks you very much for the help by the way.

signal-2022-08-18-16-05-00-000-4.jpg

signal-2022-08-18-16-05-00-000-5.jpg

The same small type of capacitor I had problems with. Yours seemed to have got hot from the near power cable (yellow) and blew off.

Edited by Paul g
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On 2/22/2022 at 8:22 PM, WillCO said:

I reached out to my V12 vendor (EUCO) regarding replacement boards, this was the response...

"We will be shipping the newly updated boards out to existing V12 customers once we receive them. An estimate is April but could be later depending on various factors such as InMotion's production and distribution rate of these boards."

Waiting game.

 

Board has shipped, should arrive tomorrow (Monday).  I've just taken the wheel apart, but haven't pulled apart the board module (heat-sink/main-board etc) as I'm not sure if I'm getting the entire assembly, or just the board.  I'll know tomorrow...

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On 8/21/2022 at 5:22 PM, WillCO said:

Board has shipped, should arrive tomorrow (Monday).  I've just taken the wheel apart, but haven't pulled apart the board module (heat-sink/main-board etc) as I'm not sure if I'm getting the entire assembly, or just the board.  I'll know tomorrow...

Received the heatsink-driver board combo, just had to move the small main board in the plastic cover over and re-assemble.  Probably could have kept the black cover, but liked the ability to see if I'd pinched anything during re-assembly.  About 40 minutes to take it down to the heat sink, about and hour and a half (ish, prob. a little more) to re-assemble and test.
Haven't run it up to speed yet (around 15 mph last night), plan on gearing up and pushing it (a bit at a time) this Friday.
Noticed last night I did something to break the high-beam, it's audibly cycling from low to high to low+high, but the highs never come on.  As I don't ride at night, I'm going to wait till a tire/tube change to tear into the "why".  Oddly, I recall the headlight connector as a single 3-prong Molex-type connector at the very front of the wheel, dunno how i missed a pin and still have low beams.... :confused1:

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30 minutes ago, WillCO said:

headlight connector

JFYI. I had the same problem. The connector was not tight or secured well in place. 

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On 8/25/2022 at 12:23 AM, techyiam said:

...

I find that it takes a lot of effort to cruise at around 45 mph on my V12. The wind at these speeds really pushes the rider back. However, my V12 feels stable, albeit doesn't feel planted. In contrast, my small displacement motorcycle feels planted at these speeds even with gusts of wind, or going over bumps and potholes.

 I think what are needed is more gyro effect (heavier motor and tire), and additional strategically placed weight (more cells, and strategically placed). Moreover, an assist is required to reduce the amount of effort necessary to attain top speed. 

...

 

21 hours ago, Bizra6ot said:

Naruto not MJ :lol:

Yes, hard to describe but something similar to Sho scott's posture in the Exn video thumbnail from Alienrides without the heels up

Edit you can also see this posture on some riders of the apple valley race

 

I went back to the same place where I went roughly 45 mph yesterday. Today was a much better experience. Today I reached the same speeds, but effortlessly. It felt stable and planted. And I did not feel the buffeting that I felt yesterday. Cannot say for sure that wind was not a factor.

However, I did make some changes.

I raised the pedals from the lowest height to the highest setting. 

I repositioned the power pads such that it is now tilted more forward. 

While riding, my lower legs were leaning more forward, and I bent my body at the waist. I hand one arm in front, and the other behind.

I will go back and experiment some more.

 

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On 8/23/2022 at 7:49 PM, WillCO said:

Received the heatsink-driver board combo, just had to move the small main board in the plastic cover over and re-assemble.  Probably could have kept the black cover, but liked the ability to see if I'd pinched anything during re-assembly.  About 40 minutes to take it down to the heat sink, about and hour and a half (ish, prob. a little more) to re-assemble and test.
Haven't run it up to speed yet (around 15 mph last night), plan on gearing up and pushing it (a bit at a time) this Friday.
Noticed last night I did something to break the high-beam, it's audibly cycling from low to high to low+high, but the highs never come on.  As I don't ride at night, I'm going to wait till a tire/tube change to tear into the "why".  Oddly, I recall the headlight connector as a single 3-prong Molex-type connector at the very front of the wheel, dunno how i missed a pin and still have low beams.... :confused1:

So far so good, blew thru about 1/2 the battery, working my way up from 10-15 mph cruising to a few speed runs to 30....recharged and went back out again and ran it up to 35 mph on a long straight for 2-3 minutes, no issues.
May throw on my moto leathers and see if it'll hit 40 tomorrow (35 is the fastest I've been on it yet, really don't want to hit the pavement at 40 regardless of attire, but.... :) )

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8 minutes ago, WillCO said:

So far so good, blew thru about 1/2 the battery, working my way up from 10-15 mph cruising to a few speed runs to 30....recharged and went back out again and ran it up to 35 mph on a long straight for 2-3 minutes, no issues.
May throw on my moto leathers and see if it'll hit 40 tomorrow (35 is the fastest I've been on it yet, really don't want to hit the pavement at 40 regardless of attire, but.... :) )

Glad to hear that your replacement went well.

What are your Mosfets, board, and ambient temperatures?

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On 8/26/2022 at 5:03 PM, techyiam said:

Glad to hear that your replacement went well.

What are your Mosfets, board, and ambient temperatures?

@techyiam Other than what EUC World reports, I'm not sure where to get specific temps....??

https://euc.world/tour/613136709929340

Edited by WillCO
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14 minutes ago, WillCO said:

@techyiam Other than what EUC World reports, I'm not sure where to get specific temps....??

https://euc.world/tour/613136709929340

I meant the temperatures shown in the onboard display.

To get to that screen, you swipe right on the home screen. There will be an icon of a V12 inside an orange circle on the top left corner. Press and hold on top of this icon. It will then switch to a screen with all the temperatures. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I am a little concerned with my V12 HT’s behaviour and was hoping anyone out there with a V12 HT or HS could do this test or advise if they see the same/different behaviour. 
 

1. When I free spin in the forward direction the wheel hits cut-off speed (86.6km/h), cuts out and powers off completely. However when I free spin in the backwards/reverse direction the wheel hits cut-off speed, cuts out but the screen stays on and the wheel stays powered. 
 

2. This one is more concerning to me.  When I free spin in the forward direction, I slowly creep up to 60km/h (max speed for HT) and as soon as it hits 60.1km/h it violently accelerates until it reaches 86.6km/h and cuts out. 
 

With the second point I’m worried what would happen if I reach max speed 60km/h, if the wheel would run away from under me and throw me on my ass or face. :efee96588e:
 

Would anyone out there be able to do this test and let me know what happens on their wheel? Thanks 

 

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11 minutes ago, Eno Efil said:

Hi all,

I am a little concerned with my V12 HT’s behaviour and was hoping anyone out there with a V12 HT or HS could do this test or advise if they see the same/different behaviour. 
 

1. When I free spin in the forward direction the wheel hits cut-off speed (86.6km/h), cuts out and powers off completely. However when I free spin in the backwards/reverse direction the wheel hits cut-off speed, cuts out but the screen stays on and the wheel stays powered. 
 

2. This one is more concerning to me.  When I free spin in the forward direction, I slowly creep up to 60km/h (max speed for HT) and as soon as it hits 60.1km/h it violently accelerates until it reaches 86.6km/h and cuts out. 
 

With the second point I’m worried what would happen if I reach max speed 60km/h, if the wheel would run away from under me and throw me on my ass or face. :efee96588e:
 

Would anyone out there be able to do this test and let me know what happens on their wheel? Thanks 

 

The best thing might be for you to set the beeps at a lower speed and buy a bluetooth for helmet or something. I’m really sorry for you, the HT seemed to have had firmware issues since the beginning and who knows how much it will take @Inmotion Global to solve this issue. We can only hope they will do it sooner.

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