INMOTION V12

[techyiam]

6 minutes ago, Paul g said:

Many probably ride their tyres at low pressure precisely because they’re bad tyres ??? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Actually, in my case, no. Improved bump compliance has always been my first and foremost reason for opting for lower tire pressure. I don't do jumps, drops, stairs nor curbs. 

[Richardo]

If anyone has instagram, you can download that video with https://github.com/yt-dlp/yt-dlp (which works on instagram) and put it on YouTube or something.

Edited May 24, 2022 by Richardo

[Richardo]

3 hours ago, Paul g said:

I use the tyre at the pressure recommended by the manufacturer, but I totally understand people using them at a lower pressure

From what I've seen, you're in a very tiny minority to ride at recommended tire pressure. 

 

It is impressive that you're riding a tire with good handling at the recommended level, though. Probably a huge boon to your rims

[enaon]

4 hours ago, Paul g said:

The bad thing about 16in wheels is you don’t find a European made tyre, like Michelin

Maybe one of those?

Pirelli Angel Scooter F-R 90/90-12 M/C TL 44J

Heidenau K58 Snowtex 90/90-12 TL 54M

 

I ride at ~35 psi, I agree that the 1488 is one of the less good options out there 

Edited May 24, 2022 by enaon

[Paul g]

Hey, thank you so much 😊! Can I ask you if you tried them yourself?

20 hours ago, enaon said:

Maybe one of those?

Pirelli Angel Scooter F-R 90/90-12 M/C TL 44J

Heidenau K58 Snowtex 90/90-12 TL 54M

 

I ride at ~35 psi, I agree that the 1488 is one of the less good options out there 

 

[enaon]

7 minutes ago, Paul g said:

Hey, thank you so much 😊! Can I ask you if you tried them yourself?

 

the angel I have, the 80/80-14, compares well to the Michelin. The Heidenau Ι have not, but it seems nice for the v12, and I like that Heidenau uses a softer/less rigid top part on their tires, it suits EUCs with no suspension well I think. 

Edited May 25, 2022 by enaon

[Paul g]

I’m so excited about this! However we need to be sure it fits inside V12. I got to visit a tyre seller to check that, or maybe find somewhere the exterior dimensions of the tyre. Got to dig some more. Thank you! 😊

[strix]

I heard from a couple of different replies to this thread that the V12 HS that are shipping out would have an improved rim as well?? Is that the case? And if so, how could you tell if it wasn’t the orange color?

[Freeforester]

If you view Denis Hagov’s YT review of the V12HT he recommends very highly the tyre that it is being shipped with, so much so that he is lobbying InMotion to supply all V12’s with said tyre (06:40):

 

Edited May 26, 2022 by Freeforester

[Steve Evans]

also posted this in the V12 cutout tracking thread

i will be replacing my driver board today. i have 2000 miles on my V12. should i reuse the old insulator strip on the heatsink or use the new one shipped with the new driver board? and/or add thermal paste?

or is this not critical?

thanks,

steve

[ien]

3 hours ago, Freeforester said:

If you view Denis Hagov’s YT review of the V12HT he recommends very highly the tyre that it is being shipped with, so much so that he is lobbying InMotion to supply all V12’s with said tyre (06:40):

 

Hagov wrote that the wheels shipped for sale have different tires 

[neophile_17]

Hello all,

I've been eagerly awaiting the new driver board like many of you.  I saw this video on how to replace the board which I will be using as a guide.  Video is by eevee who I have no affiliation with. 

The tech does not replace the silicone MOSFET pad and I don't see a reason to unless it is damaged during disassembly.

 

 

Take care,

Sam

[Steve Evans]

34 minutes ago, neophile_17 said:

Hello all,

I've been eagerly awaiting the new driver board like many of you.  I saw this video on how to replace the board which I will be using as a guide.  Video is by eevee who I have no affiliation with. 

The tech does not replace the silicone MOSFET pad and I don't see a reason to unless it is damaged during disassembly.

 

 

Take care,

Sam

yes, that seems to be the consensus

 

[RagingGrandpa]

3 hours ago, evans036 said:

should i reuse the old insulator strip on the heatsink or use the new one shipped with the new driver board? and/or add thermal paste?

or is this not critical?

All 3 options are likely to work...

I recommend to use the new strip (sil pad) and no extra paste. 

[enaon]

13 minutes ago, RagingGrandpa said:

I recommend to use the new strip (sil pad) and no extra paste. 

I have seen KS do the paste/pad/paste setup, I am trying to understand why is that. Could it be that the pad could tear under heat, pressure and vibrations, so they are adding the paste to provide "slippage" ability?

Edited May 26, 2022 by enaon

[Tawpie]

and be sure not to crank down on the screws securing the MOSFETs... you need the back of the MOSFET to be in intimate contact with the sil pad but not mashing the sil pad wafer thin (do not break the little plastic spacer). I don't know how tight this should be, it needs to not rattle out but not smash the spacer. If it were me, I'd put a dab of nail polish or some other stuff on the screw head/MOSFET interface to encourage it not to vibrate out. I wouldn't use loctite though!

[enaon]

side note, linus has tested the k5pro, I think it is an excellent match for euc's, especially KS ones, where the paste dries out with time.

https://www.computer-systems.gr/en/content/product/k5-pro-60g-3x20g

 

[Paul A]

Shouldn't there be a recall, with the repairs carried out by technicians?

[Tawpie]

5 minutes ago, enaon said:

I have seen KS do the paste/pad/paste setup, I am trying to understand why is that. Could it be that the pad could tear under heat, stress and vibrations, so they are adding the paste to provide "slippage" ability?

This is a total guess, but paste has the advantage of being able to (partially) fill a void, such as might form if you manage to get an air bubble between the pad and the faying surface. The downside is that everything between your heat source and sink resists heat transfer, so adding paste also carries some risk of having "too much".

[enaon]

12 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

This is a total guess, but paste has the advantage of being able to (partially) fill a void, such as might form if you manage to get an air bubble between the pad and the faying surface. The downside is that everything between your heat source and sink resists heat transfer, so adding paste also carries some risk of having "too much".

the bottleneck is the pad, it is worse that the paste at transferring heat. The problem with the paste, is it cannot have volume, and dries out with time, cracks with vibrations and becomes a problem. This is why it is not recommended on laptops. K5pro solves that, it is a liquid pad lets say. It still needs electrical isolation if it cannot be guaranteed that the fets will not touch the metal, but that could be a thin film, not a pad. 

Edited May 26, 2022 by enaon

[Tawpie]

15 minutes ago, enaon said:

It still needs electrical isolation, but that could be a thin film, not a pad. 

in the olden days, a thin piece of mica served as the insulator (plus very thin paste on both sides, mica has an irregular surface). But if the mechanical design is expecting a pad, you want to retain that thickness else the MOSFET heat fin won't be flat with respect to the heatsink and you'll put a lot of stress on the solder joints trying to achieve intimate contact.

Me, I'd very carefully install the new pad to the back of the MOSFETs first, making sure every one of the little plastic screw spacers clear the edges of the holes in the pads so the spacer isn't catching the hole in the pad. Then I'd put the whole thing onto the heatsink, praying that nothing shifts in the process. Danger is, you only get 1 pad to play with. I would also leave the board 'loose' (screws in, but not tight at all to allow the board to shift some) until I had the MOSFET screws all set... the intent being to try to reduce stressing the MOSFET solder joints by allowing the board to float until the MOSFETs are secure, then securing the board. My super retentive self would remember the cracked MOSFETs that happened in some V11s and choose to reflow each of the MOSFET solder joints to relieve as much mechanical stress as possible, but that's me!

BUT

It's probably 'safer' and less frustrating and ok-enough to do the assembly as eevees is showing, without pad replacement.

AND

If you don't really really need the $100, have the shop do it. If it's not done properly, it won't be your fault.

Edited May 26, 2022 by Tawpie

[Rawnei]

55 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Shouldn't there be a recall, with the repairs carried out by technicians?

The customer got the choice, send it back to reseller for repairs or receive drive-board and money compensation to DIY.

Delivery company just picked up our V12 to ship it back to reseller for swapping.

Edited May 26, 2022 by Rawnei

[techyiam]

43 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

choose to reflow each of the MOSFET solder joints to relieve as much mechanical stress as possible,

This my preference too. Just wondering, on the V11, did you have to put in a lot of heat to reflow those solder joints? Did you use just a regular soldering pencil, or something hotter? Thanks.

[Steve Evans]

21 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

The customer got the choice, send it back to reseller for repairs or receive drive-board and money compensation to DIY.

Delivery company just picked up our V12 to ship it back to reseller for swapping.

i prefer to do the work myself because i will take more care in the process than someone under a lot of stress/pressure to get it done and i dont want to be without my wheel for multiple weeks (no telling how long it will take with so many other v12's needing the same work). i am also taking this opportunity to replace the tire.

[conecones]

On 5/23/2022 at 6:50 PM, Paul g said:

If it is common might be for a reason: is it cheaper?, is it lighter( and make the eucs look lighter)?, etc. I always feel like I ride on the edge of a knife because that tyre is shaped like a knife. When you try to take a turn you’re thrown in that steep angle and there is no way of getting out of it unless you fall or straighten again the wheel perpendicular to the ground. It is so limiting and so annoying! A EUC tyre has to have a round profile. No straight strips! That tyre is the worst I’ve experienced. You might know worse that that, I don’t even wanna know what worse then that could mean 😂. For me the tyre can make a EUC good or awful. Of course there are people that are OK with whatever, even the C-1488 that [causes the road surface to] sends the wheel at the angles it wants not the ones the rider wants. But I want to be able to control the wheel in the minutest detail. I want to choose the angle of riding, not the tyre for me. I want to enjoy it, not frustrate me constantly.

The experience you are describing where the wheel remains in the tilted angle is likely attributed to the top heaviness of the V12 and not the tire. In fact the C-1488 is loved/hated for its self-straightening behaviour which is exactly opposite to what you described. Have you tried a knobby (K-262/C-168)? Those tires are known to remain in the tilted angle, especially at speed.

The feeling of riding on knife edge is both a good and bad thing. I added a clarification above noting that the tire does not send the wheel at angles it wants, its the train-tracking behaviour that causes the road surface to do this. If you actually want to control the wheel in the minutest detail, this knife edge attribute is actually what you want - it makes the ride extremely sensitive to user input and road surface. Knobby tires don't train track hence not as sensitive to road surface and user input.

H666 and C-1773 (stock tire on 2021 & newer Nikola+) are the best 16" tires. They are rounded profile and have great puncture resistance which IMO is the biggest problem with the C-1488 (along with poor mileage).