Gotway RS

[KiwiMark]

I have a bit more angle on my pedals, which gives me a bit more clearance - just trying it out to see what I think, so I could go back to flatish pedals.

[Flying W]

Swapped the hangers last night. Gotta love gotway holding a fan in place with silicone haha. I put it back with more silicone, the wheel runs cool so I didn't want to change position.

Pedal dip in tight circles seems more pronounced but my hasty calibration may have something to do with that too.

I only rode around the neighborhood for about 10min but initial impression is very good. Being a little higher puts the contact point just a bit lower on the leg which makes the wheel feel smaller and more nimble. U-turns on skinny sidewalk are easy now and dragging a little shoe gets me spinning in place like the mçm5 leaving right black skid mark circles from the tire. 

It's noticably easier to lean at med speeds (18 to 25mph). I was geared up for the test ride so I didn't get to check top speed emergency breaking, but hard breaking from 25mph didn't produce any wobbles. I'm still anticipating breaking wobbles going down hill over 30mph of I need to stop quick, but carving always kept them at bay before. 

This wheels is so wide that I think the higher angle of the pedals actually feels more comfortable. 

Today's my Friday so I'll get to take a proper ride tomorrow. So far I think the wheel should have shipped this way for HT version, the HS may benefit from the lower more stable setup.

I can't wait to get back in the dirt with higher pedals!

[UniMe]

nice, thanks for the update. did you get the hangers from the seller or GW directly? (sorry in advance if you posted the somewhere before)

[Flying W]

@UniMe I bought the hangers from ewheels, emailed them on a whim not expecting any to be available, but they always have stuff not listed on their site. They came back with a yes and asked if I wanted an invoice d two days later they were delivered! I love ewheels. 

Getting ready for a sunset ride ride this evening so I'll get to to out about 25 miles on them in mixed terrain. 

I think I'm going to love them since I'm very short at 5ft 4. Having the shell hit my leg lower males the wheel feel smaller, but my shake down run was less than 2 miles. 

[Flying W]

First ride on the shorter pedal hangers went really well. Makes the RS more nimble. With that come less stability. I can see a case for the longer hangers on the HS wheel, but on the HT model this upgrade is awesome. 

I would definitely recommend them for anyone with the HT RS, it should have come this way from day one. 

Top speed emergency breaking on a straight line produced wobbles, carving panic stops are still perfectly fine. As I get more used to the wheel hitting my legs lower in o think will improve a bit too. This wheels has always wobbled for me of breaking hard for over 30 mph, especially down hill. Part of this is me, I only have 1300 miles on the RS, the wheel I'm most used too is my mcm5 which has almost 4 times the milage and rides very different. 

Cornering is much better, didn't scrape in my usual places. The turning is much quicker too. 

I didn't get to do any off roading yet where the pedal clearance would matter but I'm looking forward to it. 

 

[Silver]

Any advice for cleaning my control board? It has gotten very dirty over the past 650 miles. I don't have any compressed air on hand at the moment but I don't know how much it would help anyways.

 

[.....]

1 hour ago, Silver said:

Any advice for cleaning my control board? It has gotten very dirty over the past 650 miles. I don't have any compressed air on hand at the moment but I don't know how much it would help anyways.

 

Wow, look at that fancy jumper wire, haha.   I would suggest using a small brush and dry compressed air. You could always try with some q-tips, just remember to get all the fuzz off. Dont use any liquids and honestly, I'd just blow some air at it and move on. Unless you do something about it, itll just get dirty again in another 600 miles. Pay particular attention to the fans and heat sinks. Bad part about too much dust leftover, is retains moisture.

[Flying W]

Wow @Silver yours gets dirtier than mine. I ride in a lot of dry dusty conditions too. 

Did you plug up the hollow boar opening on the board side as well as the small holes in the LEDs? 

mine is pretty sealed up accept for the vent holes. I still get dust and open it ever 500 miles or so but the dust is way less and easily blows off with a can of air. 

[Augus]

Disassemble it and clean it with plenty of isopropyl alcohol and a small brush. That board is in very bad condition. It is damp and dirty.

And insulate the case as best you can.

Edited August 28, 2021 by Augus

[Silver]

5 hours ago, Flying W said:

Did you plug up the hollow boar opening on the board side as well as the small holes in the LEDs? 

No the only thing I've done to my wheel is move the wires off the top of the fan so the fan would stop binding. 

[Flying W]

I moved those wires as well. The only other things I did were quick and made a huge difference for the dusty trails I rode on. 

Black duct tape on the trolly. This keeps the dust out a bunch on mine as the handle doesn't seat all the way and it keep the handle down if it tumbles. I have other wheels for quick trips to the store so I don't need a trolley on this one.

Duct taped the hole where the wires go into the motor.

Put silicone over the wire holes for the led lights. 

Those three things made a huge difference. 

I didn't do anything at first and opened it up after 100 miles to give it check and it was a mess inside. 

[sffish]

Am I correct that there are 2 generations of the RS? The 2nd generation have the LCD and improved bearings? Have there been any bearing issues with the second generation? I'm thinking about getting an LCD RS C38. Thanks.

[EMA]

4 hours ago, sffish said:

Have there been any bearing issues with the second generation?

no, they are absolutely fine 

[Bizra6ot]

And in case that fails, small SKF high quality bearings are cheaper than the large low quality oem replacement bearings

[RagingGrandpa]

On 11/1/2021 at 11:14 PM, sffish said:

Am I correct that there are 2 generations of the RS? The 2nd generation have the LCD and improved bearings?

They've made a few rounds of changes, but yes, newest RS have the Begode display and nicer smaller bearings.

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/24097-rs-latest-batch-information

On 7/19/2021 at 12:01 PM, Chronic said:

=

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/21171-hollow-bore-motors-friend-or-foe/?do=findComment&comment=378542

On 7/21/2021 at 11:50 AM, Asphalt said:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Glydiators/permalink/2271957829613372/

Begode shifting their entire model lineup to a hollow motor platform was innovative and competitively aggressive. However, Begode feels that the undesirable failure rates of the larger hub bearings were indeed problematic. To combat these failures they have partnered with a new supplier to design the new hollow motor which features a smaller hub complete with higher quality, and of course, smaller bearings.

NEW DESIGN BENEFITS

Begode says that the smaller hub bearings represent an evolution in design that will substantially reduce the potential for the previous design's premature bearing failures.

The smaller hubs combined with the smaller and higher quality bearings will bring better durability to the table.

 

PERFORMANCE

The new design is not anticipated to cost the rider anything in the realm of performance either. Begode expects the groundbreaking and already legendary speed and torque of the Monster Pro to remain the same as the previous version.

 

DESIGN OBJECTIVE

The main thrust of the new design is to optimize the design to improve water resistance, and to improve the life span of the motor with a higher quality build and better protection for the motor from environmental elements.

 

AVAILABILITY

This new design will be made available across all Begode models with the hollow motor chassis design. The new motor is available now, but the newly designed inner shell and Black Mobo are still approximately one month away from completion.

Edited November 3, 2021 by RagingGrandpa

[Menace]

I think there's actually 3 generations. 1. big bore motor, no lcd, no board cover, really early ones had lower pedal hangers 2. big bore motor, lcd, mother board cover 3. small bore motor, black board, lcd, rs logo and speaker switch sides.

[Flying W]

Can the small bore motor be used with the original boards firmware? 

When my bearings die I'd rather just get a new motor with the smaller bearings. 

I'm almost up to 1600 miles on the original bearings. Lots of dust, but no rain, I don't even drive through sprinkler puddles of I can avoid it. 

[EMA]

6 hours ago, Flying W said:

Can the small bore motor be used with the original boards firmware? 

When my bearings die I'd rather just get a new motor with the smaller bearings. 

I'm almost up to 1600 miles on the original bearings. Lots of dust, but no rain, I don't even drive through sprinkler puddles of I can avoid it. 

yes you can, the motor is the same.

what you need to check is the pillars, becouse they are matched to the motor and the shell

[Flying W]

@EMA the shell is my worry haha. I wouldn't want to have to buy a new shell too! 

So far so good with the dusk and the originals though. 

[Menace]

On 11/3/2021 at 9:26 AM, Flying W said:

@EMA the shell is my worry haha. I wouldn't want to have to buy a new shell too! 

So far so good with the dusk and the originals though. 

You would need new L hangers at the very least. The bolt pattern is different for matching up to the motor.

[Flying W]

New hangers I'm fine with, I have two sets now since my first gen had the lower ones. I bought the higher ones amd I'm much happier with the extra clearance. 

I have a heidenau k66 in transit to me too. I'll report back how I get on with it. This wheel is pretty much 50/50 dirt and street. 

My stock 1488 is fine on road at 1600 miles but the cupping had the knobs bald near the center and it's noticable off road so I'm changing it a little early. 

I have high expectations for the new tire! 

[EMA]

1 hour ago, Flying W said:

New hangers I'm fine with, I have two sets now since my first gen had the lower ones. I bought the higher ones amd I'm much happier with the extra clearance. 

I have a heidenau k66 in transit to me too. I'll report back how I get on with it. This wheel is pretty much 50/50 dirt and street. 

My stock 1488 is fine on road at 1600 miles but the cupping had the knobs bald near the center and it's noticable off road so I'm changing it a little early. 

I have high expectations for the new tire! 

you'll love k66

[Unipilot69]

Opened up the side to remove the ball bearing that's supposed to help hold the trolley handle up. Cheap ass install lets the shaft move up enough that when the handle is retracted the shaft over extends and the ball pops out. Other than that I've been lucky with the mostly stock waterproofing. I wiped some dust from the bottom. I drilled 4 drain holes in the bottom. Last week my commute was in heavy rain. My repacked replacement bearings have 1100 miles on them with no issue. Quite a few of those miles were in rain. The only waterproofing I've done is to tape a piece of old bicycle inner tube over the power switch. I want to source a schotkey diode for the charge ports. Having hot charge ports is piss poor engineering.

[MexicanBatman]

Wiring looks neater than mine

 

mine looks like someone dropped spaghetti on the floor

[RagingGrandpa]

16 hours ago, Unipilot69 said:

diode for the charge ports. Having hot charge ports is piss poor engineering.

But!

The charging port is protected (by the BMS).
If more than [about 15A] current flows (in, or out), the port is automatically disabled, until you unplug it again.
 

Adding a diode adds a separate risk: voltage drop in the charging path can interfere with the top-balancing behavior of the BMS.
For example, if you charger outputs exactly 100.8V, but your diode drops 0.3V, cells can be imbalanced by up to 0.3V without the balancing system becoming active. In a worst-case, it means one cell group would only charge to 3.9V, with the others at 4.2V.
The larger the offset, the greater the risk of unprotected over-discharge while riding the EUC to low states of charge.