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@Silver - most MTB trails don't have sustained steep climbs, meaning you're not rising 100ft in one shot (it would be murder for cyclists).

Compare it to @Marty Backe's overheat hill, which is a hiking trail with a relentless rise of >300ft elevation.
Old-board MSX's had trouble on overheat hill, because their boards overheated faster than the temperature sensor would respond.
Your C38 MSPRS has the newer board design (which measures temperature 'higher and faster,' in my experience), and requires less current to climb the same grade, vs C30.

Your EUC has unmistakeable overtemperature alarms: beeps that won't go away, and pedal tilt. For hot-weather MTB, I think you should simply ride your C38 until it beeps (and then cruise or freespin the wheel to let it cool down).

Fan upgrades won't do much- the stock fan is a screamer; and the fan doesn't participate in the main heat dissipation path anyhow (which is the heatsink exposed to the outside air).

Setting phone alarms earlier than 70C just fosters paranoia ;)

I also see no value in phone alarms for current.
We care about temperature, not current. The controller limits the peak current (to about 50A battery current a.k.a. 200A gotway reported motor current) and those bursts of power are very useful and normal for MTB trails.

Edited by RagingGrandpa
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4 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

I also see no value in phone alarms for current.
We care about temperature, not current. The controller limits the peak current (to about 50A battery current a.k.a. 200A gotway reported motor current) and those bursts of power are very useful and normal for MTB trails.

Fair, the problems with the board of the early run monster pro had me a bit overly concerned probably.
 

4 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Your EUC has unmistakeable overtemperature alarms: beeps that won't go away, and pedal tilt. For hot-weather MTB, I think you should simply ride your C38 until it beeps (and then cruise or freespin the wheel to let it cool down).

I didn't realize the wheel had it's own temperature alarm. I had accidentally turned on the temp alarm in EUC world when trying to set up speed alarms (or it was on by default) so I had never heard the actual alarm go off before. It makes since that it has one but with the lack of any users manual and having not heard anyone mention it before I wasn't going to take anything for granted. 

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If you force a wheel up a crazy hill, especially with a heavy rider, it might still fry before it had a chance to warn you, because something dies before the heat gets to wherever the sensor is. So a current alarm is a nice "okay, I shouldn't be doing this for a long time" warning, as is the motor making "aching" noises. So for these purposes, it can be helpful.

If you don't do crazy hills, no need for it, and no need to worry if it just appears momentarily as well. So yes, it's mostly superfluous.

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2 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

If you don't do crazy hills, no need for it, and no need to worry if it just appears momentarily as well. So yes, it's mostly superfluous.

I'm around 250lbs and I do go pretty steep hills from time to time even if they are relatively short most of the time so I'll turn one on just to be safe. I've ridden up a few spots that were around a 38 to 40 degree slopes and I could hear the motor struggling a lot.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got an update from Fedex they recieved my RS19-HS from DH Gate in China that I ordered end of January,its in Ca. & Im on the east coast,long wait, my 1st wheel, anything to worry about ,I see the bearing problem with these as well as fan problem & dont know if the 1 Im getting has these problems fixed

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4 hours ago, needspeed5 said:

Finally got an update from Fedex they recieved my RS19-HS from DH Gate in China that I ordered end of January,its in Ca. & Im on the east coast,long wait, my 1st wheel, anything to worry about ,I see the bearing problem with these as well as fan problem & dont know if the 1 Im getting has these problems fixed

If you don't mind taking out a few screws pull the side covers and make sure the pedal hangers are snug one of mine had one screw less than finger tight.

Of there wires on top of the fan move them, mine had two wires taped on top of the fan. 

Check all the screws that hold the shell together and add a light coat of freeze to the pedal rod so it removes easy. 

Don't go crazy tight on the case and panel screws, the brass inserts are glued in, but you can make the pedal rod screws pretty snug.

Pad it up while your learning to protect it and have a blast! 

My first wheel had a 132wh batter and a tilt back started at about 9mph. I'm a little envious 🙂

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On 3/19/2021 at 4:13 AM, needspeed5 said:

Finally got an update from Fedex they recieved my RS19-HS from DH Gate in China that I ordered end of January,its in Ca. & Im on the east coast,long wait, my 1st wheel, anything to worry about ,I see the bearing problem with these as well as fan problem & dont know if the 1 Im getting has these problems fixed

Before ya'll go u should to protect your bearings.But if u gonna ride only in dry weather there is no needs 2 do that

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Since weather here got better, I got easily over 100 km on my second batch RS and everything is great so far. It just hover over road, feels butter smooth.

I have just two questions on you guys:

1) Mudguard - which one are you using? Is there suitable 3D printed option? I'm afraid that the original Begode is a little too much pricey for something you can easily loose, or does it stick on wheel well?

2) Sidepads - I tried the thin one that comes with the wheel, but it's just painful and did not get better over time. I can't grab the wheel and got strong wobbles when breaking harder. I ordered earlier this type:
https://www.amazon.com/GREEN-FASHION-Electric-Unicycle-Universal/dp/B089NRGC8H

So I tried them and it's much better, but still not what I want :) They are hard and therefore kinda slippery. I can live with those, but... I feel better with that original one I have on MSX - wider than those originals for RS and soft, so you can better grab your wheel and also lean it on your leg when turning.

New pads from Begode (I think it's standard for Monster Pro, EX, EX.N...) looks promising, maybe what I'm looking for:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001682104239.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.68247256dCPZ5I&algo_pvid=2d25c4a1-d20e-4282-8bff-1a6cfd5e6295&algo_expid=2d25c4a1-d20e-4282-8bff-1a6cfd5e6295-8&btsid=2100bde316168643924784005eff72&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Did anyone here have similar thoughts and how did you ended? Are those new pads those I should want? :-)

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@MultiTricker I have the clip on mud guard for the RS. Yesterday in a strong cross wind it popped off. It has stayed during off road riding even while flat landing but the wind must have caught it just right. Mine came with the wheel from eWheels but if I had to get one I would DIY one or use the MSP mudguard, screwing it on through the shell.

I have Clark pads "Mike Leahy" adjustable pads on the way. Currently I'm using the ones that also came with the wheel from eWheels, not the gotway ones, they work but I needed a puck hold me feet down. The wheel takes flight easily off road and even small amounts of air can have your feel come off the pedals.

Loving the wheel though!

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10 minutes ago, Flying W said:

@MultiTricker I have the clip on mud guard for the RS. Yesterday in a strong cross wind it popped off. It has stayed during off road riding even while flat landing but the wind must have caught it just right. Mine came with the wheel from eWheels but if I had to get one I would DIY one or use the MSP mudguard, screwing it on through the shell.

I had the problem of easily detachable mudguard in the beginning too but i found out i had installed it wrong. 
So there are two possible places it can be slotted in... It's difficult to explain but if you slot it in the correct place it becomes very difficult to remove, you'd have to squeeze it pretty hard to get it off. 
Now mine only comes off if i accidentally back the euc and mudguard directly into a wall.

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I know what you mean, I had mine on loosely too at first. I still don't know how the wind did it but stuffed it into the tire....it was very windy haha. 

Mine stay put through all the bumps and tree root hits. The only time it came out was from the wind yesterday. 

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6 hours ago, MultiTricker said:

1) Mudguard - which one are you using? Is there suitable 3D printed option? I'm afraid that the original Begode is a little too much pricey for something you can easily loose, or does it stick on wheel well?

I fashioned a mudguard for the RS that is 3D Printed, I printed it in TPU so it could bend and then hotglued it to the RS and seems to work great, although it is rather close to the tire, hasn't failed me yet. I haven't released it neither since it was a quick a dirty mock up but willing to share the Fusion360 with you if interested. Here the link for the Fusion360 https://ufile.io/izckurvi

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Hello EUC community :)

Reading this thread after already ordering a Gotway RS is a little concerning :/

Did Begode already update the wheel? has it new bearings? any other changes?

Is there a good guide on how to waterproof the wheel?

 

At least i have my InmotionV8 as an fallback when i need to commute in rain...

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Just came here to say, I have passed 2000 miles on my wheel. Almost 2000 miles of bliss expect for that one time I had to ride home at walking pace because of having too much fun. Only issue I have had so far is a broken fan blades. I Have hit 30mph once... and that is good enough for me. Generally cruise around 20-25 mph. I Just recently ranged tested it on mixed (15-20 mph) and was able to pull out 63 miles with 6% charge left.

I love this thing, but I am also eyeing the v12. Simply because of the bearing, issue, and the lack of decent waterproofing. Real-world Range, and price will play a huge part n that decision. Hoping it rides similar to the RS.

 

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I hit over 1k miles on my batch 1 RS a few days ago. No issues with bearings, cooling fan, or leds. 

Luckily, SoCal weather is mostly sunny so waterproofing isn't very necessary. I've taken it on light off-roading but mostly pavements because of the lower pedals. Very stable at speed, but top I've hit has been 32 mph. 

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I just put on the "Mike Leahy" Clark Pads about 20 miles ago. I'm still getting used to them but they are awesome. 

These pads are wider, and you can spread them further apart of need be. 

I wanted my feet locked on the wheel, but I needed to be able to crouch low for "leg suspension". The way I have these set up right now is perfect. I have the breaking help but the front is only contacted when you really need it. Riding around normal feels like there isn't any power pads. It's just awesome. 

Having the feel stay put feels so much safer off road. The wheel is heavy for hopping up curbs, this is the first time I've had my feel locked in so my legs just need to get conditioned to pulling the wheel up. 

In my short ride with them I was already able to hop tree roots and ruts that would have caused me to slow down or pick a better line. 

I really think this version of the Clark Pads would appeal to wider audience (not just the chooch wannabees like myself 😁)

If you don't lock them down right on top of the foot you can have the added safety of not coming completely off on an unseen bump, still close the pedals and also a lot of free movement range before contacting the pads with your shins. Or, you can lock your feet right down like I did (but pedals can't close) and still adjust how much free movement you want forward to back.

These pads also have larger toe cups so of you ride with your feet not touching the wheel body there is still plenty there bunny hops. 

They aren't cheap, but they also feel like they are good quality. I was getting along fine with diy pads but these keep my feet on better and don't look like a hack job as I'm not very good at being crafty. 

I installed them with 3m dual lock, Velcro would have a better look but I just used what I had on hand. The dual lock holds very well, no chance of them coming off while hopping up and over stuff. 

 

 

 

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On 12/21/2020 at 9:50 AM, shellac said:

I would but I’m on ios, sorry. 

How did you turn off tiltback option?  I hit the option and only get chinese lettering on the gotway app

I'm loving the RS 

 

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On 4/8/2021 at 4:31 PM, eucVibes said:

How did you turn off tiltback option?  I hit the option and only get chinese lettering on the gotway app

I'm loving the RS 

 

There’s some Chinese pop up that shows when you first open it. If you then go to device on the lower left you can click the settings icon and there’s a close tilt back option. 

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Hello dear wheelers
I've ordered an RS-High torque 3 weeks ago, and it should arrive in less than 2 weeks now 
I'm really excited about it !

But now i'm wondering if i should get or not a C30 (high speed) motor aswell.
I've seen them on alie, and they're aren't that expensive. (€ 430,55)

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002324009398.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3d753fecAGMpaB&algo_pvid=3911cba2-36c6-464a-a4e5-fe6291223324&algo_expid=3911cba2-36c6-464a-a4e5-fe6291223324-15&btsid=0b0a187b16182370597798619e4867&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_


But I don't know if there is a difference between c30 (high speed) and c38(high torque) motherboard, aswell as software differences?
I've searched a bit on the forum, aswell as in another French euc-forum, but i've not found what i was searching.

If I put a C30 motor in a c38 rs, will i have to make aswell some motherboard/software changes, or will it work just like that ?
(I want to do some true range testing between the two, to see if they really use the same wh/km)

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4 hours ago, NickNonsense said:

I think the motor in the torque version has larger magnets. 

Yes they do, the 30 and the 38 are the with of the magnets. 

@French KaMiKaZe needs helmI don't think the boards are interchangeable, but of they mount the same or of it's easy enough to have two different mounts then I guess you could swap back and forth. 

I have the HT version and it's rare that it needs to go faster. I went back n forth on which one to get but I like being able to climb anything I less traction isn't there. I'm 195lbs geared up and the RS still climbed a 38 degree slope without making groaning noises. 

All that torque also gives it great breaking so I'm still very happy with my choice between the two. If I didn't ride mnt bike trails I'm sure the speed version would be better. Larger headroom to cruise faster but low 30s for half the battery is still moving at a decent speed. 

I have almost 800 miles on mine. Only light rain for about 2miles, just enough to make the street wet and a lot of dry dusty dirt. So far my bearings are doing well still. 

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14 hours ago, French KaMiKaZe needs helm said:

But I don't know if there is a difference between c30 (high speed) and c38(high torque) motherboard, aswell as software differences?
I've searched a bit on the forum, aswell as in another French euc-forum, but i've not found what i was searching.

If I put a C30 motor in a c38 rs, will i have to make aswell some motherboard/software changes, or will it work just like that ?
(I want to do some true range testing between the two, to see if they really use the same wh/km)

you need to match motor and board ;) 

i had both msp in the past and c38 give me way better range than speed version, but RS firmware is different from msp so who knows

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