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King Song S18 Discussion


Phong Vu

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3 hours ago, jmsjms said:

It would be easier not to drag the 50 lbs into the supermarket.

You dont drag it. The motor is on when you trolley it. It drags its self. All you have to make sure is that it doesn fall to the side otherwise the wheel just follows you around. 

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47 minutes ago, jmsjms said:

I understand that, but still it's preferable if both of your hands are available to do your grocery shopping.

I also just put the wheel in the basket. I can only get really buy a back pack full plus 2 to 4 bags when shopping with the wheel so everything fits in the cart just fine.

It also helps that usually take a 16s if I'm just going to the store as it's a sub 40lb wheel :rolleyes:.

If I trolly and need both hands I just lean the wheel on my leg, or on the shelves. 

I prefer going to the store with the wheel since it prevents impulse spending! 

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On 9/8/2020 at 6:34 PM, Elliott Reitz said:

Thanks, Loki is great.  Yes an S18 with a K262 on it.

My wheel isn't centered between the fender parts either.

I've been wondering about the size of the spacers and if maybe one is missing from the right side (facing fwd).  If so it might explain some of the over-stiffness in the suspension (easy to feel w/o shock attached at one side).

20200827_112622c.JPG

20200822_180517c.JPG

It appears you chose to remove the plastic fender? I guess you had to to fit the knobby tire in there?

How is that working out?

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On 9/11/2020 at 5:57 AM, eve said:

Just got my S18 and the fender is tilted. The axel might me missaligned too. Dont know if the Screws are missing on one side of the fender or if there are none on one side. 

Does the handle stay in place in the bottom position? Cuz mine doesnt for some reason.

 

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119124274_639663830068840_1489226873994910109_n.jpg

IMG_7292.jpg

This is very hard to understand. Like one look at the fender and you see its misaligned. How did this pass QC? :ph34r:

Look a few pages back and you'll find my posts with pictures almost identical to your misaligned wheel.

 

I sent mine back to eWheels and they reported to have fixed it and it is with FedEx on its way back to me. Supposed to deliver on Monday. The below pictures are what eWheels emailed me after realigning the wheel, it is still a little off-center even after the adjustment but they say it is no longer rubbing the fender. They also emailed me a video of the tire spinning without rubbing but it is too big to upload here. Never mind, this thread will not allow me to upload any more pictures. Apparently I've reached my maximum of 3.12 MB for the entire thread...

Edited by Bridgeboy
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@Bridgeboy I took appart the whole wheel. The fender is a joke. Its a piece of plastic put together with no precision. Mine is lower on the right side. Thats where its rubbing. 
 

I had battle with silicon glue and motor cables i hope i didnt dmg anything. :shock2:

To anyone who wants to take apart their S18 and they get to the motor cables ibetween the suspension sliders. Be very careful when removing the water tight rubber and the silicon glue surrounding the cable. From what i noticed scratched of some rubber from a blue cable and a push a small white cable a little when i was removing the silicon glue. Will most likely tape the blue cable.

Thankfully it doesnt seem it will cause any permanent damage on functionality of the cable. Just have to cover that blue cable and reapply the silicon glue during reassembly.

 

 

Edited by eve
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5 hours ago, Steef Klonoa said:

Is the fast charger for this the one on ewheels that says 18l/18xl?

The S18 has the rectangular Lenovo-style charger port with yellow plastic which is the same as the 18XL; but the 18XL has two of them. So yes, any charger that works for the 18XL will work with the S18. I own both an 18XL and an S18.

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2 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said:

The S18 has the rectangular Lenovo-style charger port with yellow plastic which is the same as the 18XL; but the 18XL has two of them. So yes, any charger that works for the 18XL will work with the S18. I own both an 18XL and an S18.

From what i heard the S18 fast charger is 5amps though. The 18L/XL is 4amps.

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1 minute ago, eve said:

From what i heard the S18 fast charger is 5amps though. The 18L/XL is 4amps.

I have a 5-amp fast charger from eWheels that I bought at the same time as I bought the 18XL in December of last year:

KS18XL in White

NEW: King Song 18XL 1554Wh Battery/2200W Motor - 18XL, White × 1
  • 84.2v/5A Rapid-charger ($100): 

    Save $50 by adding charger to Order

 

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5 hours ago, Steef Klonoa said:

Is the fast charger for this the one on ewheels that says 18l/18xl?

This is the one:

https://www.ewheels.com/product/ewheels-84-2v-rapid-chargers/

You need to choose :  image.png.29b2b30773a3a2befc1165e7f60458ae.png

Edited by Bridgeboy
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Oh thats what you meant. There is an official charger. That Kingsong sells from XVE. 

God 150 dollars for a charger. 

I dont understand this money grab technique. its possible to create an 84V charger with different cable end that you can attach to it. 

If i have a Gotway, Kingsong and an Inmotion i would have to pay 450USD for fast chargers. Thats plain stupid.

Edited by eve
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1 hour ago, eve said:

Oh thats what you meant. There is an official charger. That Kingsong sells from XVE. 

God 150 dollars for a charger. 

I dont understand this money grab technique. its possible to create an 84V charger with different cable end that you can attach to it. 

If i have a Gotway, Kingsong and an Inmotion i would have to pay 450USD for fast chargers. Thats plain stupid.

The XVE charger that came with the S18 says 4.0A max on it.

The rapid chargers sold by eWheels are more than just higher amperage, they are adjustable so you can charge at 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 amps by turning a knob, and you can also set them to charge to 80%, 90%, or 100% of total battery capacity, also by turning another knob. They are much better than a standard charger that can only charge to 100% unless you happen to unplug it sometime before it reaches full charge. So they let you manage your battery charging to maintain longevity of your batteries.

Also, they are only $100 when you buy them along with the EUC:

84.2v/5A Rapid-charger ($100): 

Save $50 by adding charger to Order

Edited by Bridgeboy
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2 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said:

The chargers sold by eWheels are more than just higher amperage, they are adjustable so you can charge at 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 amps by turning a knob, and you can also set them to charge to 80%, 90%, or 100% of total battery capacity, also by turning another knob. They are much better than a standard charger that can only charge to 100% unless you happen to unplug it sometime before it reaches full charge. So they let you manage your battery charging to maintain longevity of your batteries.

Tell me something i dont know. 100USD is still a lot for charger that should be able to charge any 84V wheel instead of just one brand.

Even XVE charger can charge both a Kingsong or an Inmotion depending what end cable you plug in. Tell me its not possible to do that and its definetly not a money grab. 

Edited by eve
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4 minutes ago, eve said:

Tell me something i dont know. 100USD is still a lot for charger that should be able to charge any 84V wheel instead of just one brand.

Even XVE charger can charge both a Kingsong or an Inmotion depending what end cable you plug in. Tell me its not possible to do that and its definetly not a money grab. 

Well every wheel comes with a standard charger for no extra cost so I don't really see an issue in paying $100 if someone wants the luxury to charge a wheel faster or to control the level of the battery. I don't know how much the chargers cost to produce. On that note: look how much custom power pads cost. $80 to $100 for a couple of foam pads.

Also, I thought you could also buy an adapter to allow it to fit different types of charging ports, but I could be wrong.

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13 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said:

Well every wheel comes with a standard charger for no extra cost so I don't really see an issue in paying $100 if someone wants the luxury to charge a wheel faster or to control the level of the battery. I don't know how much the chargers cost to produce. On that note: look how much custom power pads cost. $80 to $100 for a couple of foam pads.

Also, I thought you could also buy an adapter to allow it to fit different types of charging ports, but I could be wrong.

Yeah and you think pads for 80-100USD is okay? Thats just as ridiculous.

Luxury? No charger should cost more then 70USD and thats for the high-end chargers.

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2 minutes ago, eve said:

Yeah and you think pads for 80-100USD is okay? Thats just as ridiculous.

That's not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying if you think chargers are expensive, then a couple of foam pads for $80 is a whole other level. As in I agree they are way overpriced. However, they aren't manufactured in bulk so I really don't know what a person's cost was to get them made like that...

However, anything and everything in this world is worth exactly as much as someone is willing to pay for it. That's how a free market works.

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1 minute ago, Bridgeboy said:

That's not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying if you think chargers are expensive, then a couple of foam pads for $80 is a whole other level. As in I agree they are way overpriced. However, they aren't manufactured in bulk so I really don't know what a person's cost was to get them made like that...

However, anything and everything in this world is worth exactly as much as someone is willing to pay for it. That's how a free market works.

Yeah and im not willing. :laughbounce2:  But its even more ridiculous in europe. A fast-charger like that costs 160€ thats 190USD. :thumbup:

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@Purplecycle Thats not a bearing sound. Thats your tyre rubbing against the fender. Your fender is crooked just like mine and every other S18.

Check your motor cable if the rubber is still intact. If it isnt. I wouldnt recommend riding. The wheel needs complete reassembly.

Mine is laying on my bad. Apart. :ph34r:

Check the if the Tyre isnt misaligned and checked if the axle isnt misaligned. If the tyre is the fix it and then check the axle just to be sure.

Edited by eve
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Just now, eve said:

@Purplecycle Thats not a bearing sound. Thats your tyre rubbing against the fender. Your fender is crooked just like mine and every other S18.

Yes, there is definitely a rubbing sound (I confirmed that the shock presses against the fender and the tire rubs whenever I brake).

But there seems to be another sound (more metallic) which gets amplified when I accelerate (as if there was something loose inside the motor).

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4 hours ago, eve said:

@Purplecycle Thats not a bearing sound. Thats your tyre rubbing against the fender. Your fender is crooked just like mine and every other S18.

Check your motor cable if the rubber is still intact. If it isnt. I wouldnt recommend riding. The wheel needs complete reassembly.

Mine is laying on my bad. Apart. :ph34r:

Check the if the Tyre isnt misaligned and checked if the axle isnt misaligned. If the tyre is the fix it and then check the axle just to be sure.

I took off the outer shells and looked around (took advantage to lift the pedals while I was at it...) and it seems everything is aligned correctly. There is even a piece of aluminum on the right side of the axle. 
I did not see anything else that may be loose (I thought it could have been a loose washer, like the ones that go on the axle of the 18L/XL, but the S18 doesn’t seem to have them, or at least they don’t seem to be loose). 

I listened to the sound more carefully and it sounds very much like an older firmware that I used to have prior to 1.13 on my 18L. The sound was very similar and it happened when accelerating — it’s like the motor is being forced (or the opposite, it’s being throttled). I remember on the 18L when I upgraded to 1.13 it seemed like something unlocked inside the motor and the wheel was butter smooth all of a sudden. Plus, there is a strange clicking sound when the wheel is moved slowly (see vid 1). So I am starting to think it may be firmware related. 
 

That issue aside, has anyone managed to resolve the fender rubbing issue? My shock lies exactly on top of that protuberance, so every time I brake or accelerate hard, the fender rubs against the wheel. I have no idea how to resolve it, except removing the screw and filing down the protuberance (although I don’t know if at that point the shock would go lower and still hit the fender). 

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7 hours ago, eve said:

@Purplecycle Thats not a bearing sound. Thats your tyre rubbing against the fender. Your fender is crooked just like mine and every other S18.

Check your motor cable if the rubber is still intact. If it isnt. I wouldnt recommend riding. The wheel needs complete reassembly.

Mine is laying on my bad. Apart. :ph34r:

Check the if the Tyre isnt misaligned and checked if the axle isnt misaligned. If the tyre is the fix it and then check the axle just to be sure.

What kind of motor cable rubber you meant?

3 hours ago, Purplecycle said:

I took off the outer shells and looked around (took advantage to lift the pedals while I was at it...) and it seems everything is aligned correctly. There is even a piece of aluminum on the right side of the axle. 
I did not see anything else that may be loose (I thought it could have been a loose washer, like the ones that go on the axle of the 18L/XL, but the S18 doesn’t seem to have them, or at least they don’t seem to be loose). 

I listened to the sound more carefully and it sounds very much like an older firmware that I used to have prior to 1.13 on my 18L. The sound was very similar and it happened when accelerating — it’s like the motor is being forced (or the opposite, it’s being throttled). I remember on the 18L when I upgraded to 1.13 it seemed like something unlocked inside the motor and the wheel was butter smooth all of a sudden. Plus, there is a strange clicking sound when the wheel is moved slowly (see vid 1). So I am starting to think it may be firmware related. 
 

That issue aside, has anyone managed to resolve the fender rubbing issue? My shock lies exactly on top of that protuberance, so every time I brake or accelerate hard, the fender rubs against the wheel. I have no idea how to resolve it, except removing the screw and filing down the protuberance (although I don’t know if at that point the shock would go lower and still hit the fender). 

is the motor behave like this since it went out of the box? So weird that noise coming only when breaking

I still think the problem is with your motor bearings..

The fender have to be realligned somehow, if not lazy maybe I will try to soften it with my heat gun then have it massage until its straight.

do you have picture of your suspension when hitting this protuberance?

Edited by Beachboy
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