meepmeepmayer

Yep! And it is easy to enjoy a bouncy cushioning low tire pressure without realizing the pressure is so low. That can also cost a lot of range as I found out. I was worried my batteries were getting old (~140 cycles now) but once the tire presure was up again, I got my full range back... minus the part lost to higher speeds

Some Inmotion models were sold as "Solowheel" in the U.S., but they are really Inmotion models. The Solowheel Glide 2 is a rebranded Inmotion V5. The Solowheel Glide 3 is a rebranded Inmotion V8. So if your post is about the Glide 2 or Glide 3, you will get more visibility and answers if you post in the Inmotion forum instead of here (but you can post where you like). Make sure to mention your EUC is "Solowheel" branded when posting in the Inmotion forum, as there might be some small differences. And almost all information (besides very minor details) about the Inmotion V5 or V8 will apply to your Solowheel Glide 2 or 3, too. Most importantly, use the Inmotion app with the Glide 2 and 3, not the ancient Solowheel app.

He often takes longer breaks I think. One day he'll be back.

You're not the first to think about such a long range EUC tour Reliability is no problem. People have 15000+ km wheels with zero issues. Even if something happens, you'll only need a new board (carrying a spare is easy) or a new motor in the worst case (prepare it and ship it to your location if necessary - that even works for a completely new wheel if everything goes down in flames). But charging might be a problem. Even if you mod your wheel for like 250km daily range (probably the upper end you'll want to do weight-wise), question is can you reliably charge every 250km? Maybe it works with good planning, maybe there are some dry spots (Central Asia? Alaska? Patagonia?) that you need more range for.

Very cool. Congratulations on this unique experience and yet another EUC "first"! And you gave your username literal meaning

The i5 is such a cool and unique wheel. The perfect device for the actual "last mile" as opposed to general purpose EUCs with 50+ mile range and 50kph speeds. So light and so nice to carry, and riding is good too.

Some 16X-unrelated posts have been moved here:

That was probably just because the 21700 battery was bigger and allowed for more speed with the same safety level as the smaller 18650 battery. With the comparably huge batteries in 1600Wh and similar wheels, current is no longer a limitation, and you can drive the motor as fast as it can go. And that only depends on the voltage, the motor doesn't even see which kind of batteries feed it. But maybe there are secondary effects from the 21700s that allow for more speed somehow, I'm certainly not ruling that out.

They can make it lighter. The highest capacity 22700 cells are advertised as having up to 20% more energy density compared to the highest capacity 18650 cells (at least their marketing says that, not sure how reliable that is, I only quickly googled for this). So 20% more range for the same weight. Nothing spectacular, but still a great piece of progress (if true). Faster depends on the voltage, you can get the desired voltage with both types of batteries. So I don't believe there will be a speed difference strictly from the cell type.

Never heard of a 4.1V 100% limit with Kingsongs (GW has 4.1125V) but that doesn't necessarily mean it's 4.2V confirmed @us69 never complained about my 4.2V though

Don't worry about your battery. There are lots of riders and something like this happened to not a single one of them. As said above, EUC batteries are used much more in the spec envelope than some phone battery. No bad voltages, comparably very low charging (even fast chargers are quite slow for such huge batteries) and discharging stresses, etc. EUC batteries with common sense care (do not store for a long time at low percentage or 100%, do not freeze or cook, charge to 100% and keep the charger in for a few hours maybe once every 10-20 rides to balance the cells) usually last for 10000s of miles before you even notice a capacity loss (which, except for slightly lower range, is absolutely unproblematic otherwise). Most likely your wheel will be old and banged up and you'll want a new one long before battery degradation even comes into play. I think around 500 (? not too sure) charge cycles is about where you might start noticing a capacity loss for the typical cell used in EUCs. That's 500 times your full range (20 miles) so 10k miles. If you do 8 miles per work day, that's 1250 work days before you even notice anything, let alone any real range loss. You do the math how long that is in years You'll buy a new wheel for any non-battery reason loooooooooooooong before your battery goes bad. Yep. The V10 has 80 2200mAh cells, and the V10F has 80 3200mAh cells. So 80*3.7V*2.2Ah = 651.2Wh for the V10 and 947.2Wh for the V10F with a 3.2/2.2 = +45% difference. But the battery count is the same, so anything besides the actual capacity will be the same between the wheels. Battery stresses etc. You'll just ramp up charge cycles a bit faster with the smaller battery and have lower range, that's all. - Your "Keep it where it is after a ride and charge to full (or 90% usually and 100% balancing occasionally) in preparation for the next ride" plan is good though.

20Wh/km or 35Wh/mile is a reasonable estimate for the more or less average rider at moderate speeds (30kph/19mph). Usually 1000Wh are good for 50km/30miles. That applies to all wheels (with a slight exception for the 18XL and 16X which get a bit more range due to discharging their batteries further than other wheels). That gives 33km or 19 miles for the V10, which is a good estimate. So your result is as expected. Looks like you even got a bit more due to your low speed. Due to the nonlinear discharge curve and the voltage drop, you cannot realistically extrapolate range from a partial discharge. The lower the battery, the less a % means in real world range. You'd need to do a real range test from 100% till the wheel throws you off if you want to know your range. Which is going to be around 20miles (or much more if you're going slower - it all very much depends on your speed). All manufacturer ranges (and some other specs) are pure BS, Inmotion's included. That only works with a 50kg rider at 15kph speed or so. Go by battery size. It does not hurt the battery if you discharge it. Even "0%" is still quite full (presumably 3.3V, whereas 100% is 4.2V, and the battery is officially discharged at 3.0V). You just shouldn't keep your battery empty for a long time, if it is under 3V for a long time or discharges towards maybe 2.6V, that would be bad. But just riding your wheel down to 0% is absolutely fine. Simply don't store it at 0% for an extended time (~weeks - a few days won't be a problem).

... at the cost of proportionally lower rpm, which balances out to give the same power draw (which is only a natural assumption to compare things). Ignoring any constants, just the general relationships: P(power) = T(torque) * RPM (revolutions per minute, angular speed) = F(force pushing you forward at the contact point to the ground) * r(radius) * RPM = F * r * v(linear speed)/r = F * v = P And acceleration is (unfortunately?) proportional to F (= T/r), not T or P. Works out... for me, I hope it's right. Also no idea what the motor and electronics characteristics do to this framework. Wow, that's crazy, having to leave home due to weather!

When people (me included to my shame) mention torque (which you rightly say is constant for the same motor, but really for a given power draw from riding at a certain constant speed), they usually mean acceleration aka "oomph" (that feeling may also depend on the ride mode and firmware). Unfortunately, that's proportional to torque divided by radius (for the same power draw). So here the bigger radius does not help. But you can certainly accelerate hard on a big wheel (e.g. seated Monster uphills), it will only require more torque, but if you lean it, it has the power. So for the rider, the acceleration might not be (so much) worse on a bigger wheel. It might not even be such a big power/battery draw difference because it's not like you accelerate and decelerate hard all the time so that it would make a difference. I believe that's the way to see it.

The numbers in that font are really hard to read!

The terrain following behavior seems to be just the tire (it has a relatively wide and flat profile where it touches the ground). I think that's what you are experiencing. Change the tire to a "rounder" one, e.g. people switched to the stock Nikola tire which doesn't have this effect (or only a tiny bit). But many people started liking this 16X behavior after a few 100 miles, so see if that works for you too.

First result when googling "iata lithium battery rules": https://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/dgr/Documents/passenger-lithium-battery.pdf Max 2 packs <160Wh each in carry-on luggage only.

The V8 is 84V, which comes out to 20*3200mAh*3.7V = 236Wh for the smallest battery pack size (assuming using the same 3200mAh battery cells as used in the V8 battery). You can't subdivide it further, a pack must always be at least 20 cells (the V8 has 2 of them for 480Wh).

You don't have to. People can do that themselves if they have reliable information what to plan for. Mostly dates and times and the knowledge whether it's "for them" (aka descriptions of the rides - so they know if their wheel is enough etc.). You don't need to do anything but give people that info. But nobody books a hotel room on vague info, that's what I meant to say

That will depend on how clearly you lay out what is happening. Right now, if you read this thread (all.. 15 people?), you know there's a week of various Backe-guided rides in the week preceding the Games. You still have not enough info to plan a vacation around that. And people not reading this thread are probably not even aware. Your rides are the main attraction as far as my interest is concerned, with the Games just the icing on the cake Too bad I'm on the wrong continent So call it something catchy like "Marty Backe's week of Los Angeles Adventure Tours" (now that @Hunka Hunka Burning Love is out of VR again, maybe he can make one of his sweet advertising banners - or two or three infographics - for an actually real Marty BackeTM event), make the DATES clear, and give a short description of the ride (on road? off road? battery needed? distance?) and the approximate starting and end time for each day, so people can PLAN for each day. Is it filled by the rides, or do they have half of the day for other stuff? And then make your own thread and YouTube video, and spam that info all over Facebook. Info in order of importance: What is it? (7 days of amazing grand tours around LA and the surrounding mountains in the week preceding the LA EUC Games, all the grand Backe rides people ever dreamt of, guided by the man himself) Who can join? (Everyone with a suitable electric ridable, though rides are based on EUCs) Dates rough times for each day so people can plan the rest of the day ride description for each day so people know what to think of it People need to PLAN for this so give them the complete info they need. Sooner than later - imagine the lead time an out-of-towner needs if he must plan a vacation for the occasion. Then they will come.

Excellent riding skills and video! That stair crash looked nasty Could have gone much worse. I think you need a knobby tire, much better grip so the tire doesn't slip sideways so easily. Great to see the Afeez cameo!

There are good arguments for various courses of action. Right now, as it has been used, the Downvote button simply doesn't mean you disagree with something (or even if something is clearly wrong). It's not about the content of the post. It's about whether the post is a bad post in itself (bad faith, trolling, too low standard, extreme content, etc.). It's not a middle finger in my opinion, but a strong "Did you have to post this?!" statement. So it appears very rarely and is good info to the poster and staff. A few options, say your opinion and add more if you want: Keep everything as it is - it keeps the positive highlighted (easy "Like" click), even though having the upvote there is confusing, I never know which to use. Remove the Like (which does exactly the same as the upvote) and just have up- and downvote Just have "Like" and nothing else. 4 options: Good post/Upvote (+1 rep) - Like (also +1 rep) - Disagree (+/-0 rep) - Bad post/Downvote (-1 rep) (so the middle ones are about the content and the outer ones are about the post itself) 3 options: Like (+1) - Disagree (+/-0) - Bad post (-1) - also not bad, maybe simpler, but maybe too much emphasis on the negative.

Hi! Very good idea. You learn so much faster if the initial ride is just along someone you can hold on to!

The pulse glider (warning: 2 year old thread) was empty promises/vaporware by some guy in California who lists a boy scout medal as his credentials. There was a working prototype but I believe it was just some stock wheel hardware in a custom shell. It has absolutely nothing to do with Rockwheel (actually, the stock hardware included a Rockwheel board, but you know what I mean). It's just as vaporware as any new Rockwheel EUC, which is why it was mentioned in jest. Rockwheel apparently didn't find investors, which stopped them from releasing their 18 incher or doing more wheels. No idea if that was just bad luck or they weren't competitive with GW/KS. In hindsight, they had quite some technical chops, for example the big TO-247 mosfets long before the other used those, and the main guy was very talented. I guess the company is dead as a manufacturer and any new Rockwheel model (including this GT18) won't happen. Would be happy to be wrong on this, but doesn't seem likely. Still running the Rockwheel Store on Ali, so who knows...