meepmeepmayer

If you ask me: yes Nothing really changes. You're still borderline too heavy to be safely happy with the V8. You will still wish you had more range. Probably you will still want to upgrade soon. That's my guess. Losing that weight and getting to 220 is an excellent idea to get more range from your future 18XL though! It really does make a difference. - My opinion: there are "general purpose" wheels that I can recommend to everybody, and there are "specialty wheels" that only make sense for special requirements. The V8 is a specialty wheel that makes sense for people who a) like or need the form factor, especially the lower weight of the wheel, or b) who don't have more money and want to get the best wheel the V8 price allows (which might be the V8 or a better used wheel for the same price). Also, it's quite slow already, and having to be extra careful as a heavier rider and riding even slower doesn't make things better. You can buy a V8 and use it, in its limitations, and you'll like it. I still wouldn't recommend it to a normal weight rider looking for a general purpose wheel (instead of a specialty wheel), and I certainly wouldn't recommend it to a heavier rider like you. I really don't think the money is worth it. Sure you can easily sell it later and not lose too much money, it's not like you jumped off a cliff, but why bother in the first place. No need to rush things or worry You can think about what else to get instead (you certainly can't go wrong with an 18XL, but it doesn't have to be an 18XL). But I see no point in a V8 for you. At least as far as I can see from behind my keyboard.

The Frankensteining of the msuper V3 shell continues. Wish they'd just come out with a new design! Those speakers sure look waterproof... They did that to the mten3, too. What a dumb solution. And looks cheap. The batteries are behind the extrusions on the top half. The lower parts of each side have the board (right side) and nothing (left side) respectively. Looks like they added the speakers to the board side (easier cabling) and the other side is still empty.

Replace 18L in your consideration above with 18XL and you're golden! The 18L would be fine, though, just less financially efficient than the 18XL, and you might regret not getting an XL instead. For your weight, the V8 is too weak (the smaller/weaker 2p battery is the main issue). Sure, you could ride it, but you'd always be at its limits and I probably wouldn't ride above 25kph at all then, and feel unsafe most of the time anyways. That's not worth the money. Even if you were lighter, you might want to upgrade very soon (2 weeks) if you're now already worried about the range. Add your weight into the consideration... don't keep the V8. You had the right hunch there. What are your range expectations for the 18L? Don't believe advertised ranges. A simple rule of thumb would be 25Wh/km or 40+Wh/mile, maybe even a little more for your weight.

Very new members cannot edit, sorry (unfortunately necessary for spam prevention purposes). You can just make a new post with the pictures if you want to post them.

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Of course I can only guess. But to me the video (wow at that behavior!) looks like yet another case of a badly calibrated sensor going crazy (but maybe @mrelwood is right that KS now expects a completely level calibration?). Reminds me of your initial 16S video with the xxxxxxtreme crazyness. The firmware update forced you to do a new calibration, which ended up being a bad calibration, and now you somehow need to get a good one again. Too bad this always hits you Yep, as shitty as possible. Side lean, forward/backwards lean. Basically just throw it in a corner and then calibrate however it lies. And then calibrate nicely. Don't do that... just yet - At this point, the most notable common point I'm seeing with your calibrations is your garage (same rare problem with TWO wheels?!). Calibrate your wheel somewhere else. Different temperature (maybe warmer is better?), different electromagnetic environment (maybe your wifi hates your wheel? Your phone's Bluetooth? Different phone! Who knows...), maybe even a different battery charge if you always were at the same one, etc. This is fast approaching voodoo (calibrate at midnight on a full moon in front of a mirror and say "Kingsong" three times, but don't look, whatever happens!!), but what else to do? Just go through every potential bad influence on your sensor and remove or change it. What you can also do is make systematic calibrations at certain forward/backward and sideways angles, and write down the results. Mabe you find a pattern in which area the calibration gets better or worse. Also calibrate somewhere (else) with more space. The wheel starts getting to the final balance level very slowly if you only push it very slowly (like in the video above), so push it fast enough to remove that source of error (for which you need the space). That's all I can come up with... good luck.

Oops didn't read this thread. Looks like you have a susceptible board (sensor). Do you think the firmware upgrade itself did something here? Or just that calibration it made you do? I don't think it matters that a calibration is perfectly level. You just have to somehow coax the seonsor into behaving. Maybe an intentionally bad calibration that is off as bad as you can get it? So next time you calibrate "right", the difference is big enough so maybe the sensor decides to work then?

Please distinguish tiltback (intentional) from pedal dipping in turns, either forwards or backwards (and unintended). You might be just a calibration away from removing your "tiltback". Somewhere here it said to do a calibration after the upgrade anyways.

That's cool that they managed to upgrade all wheels without a hardware (board) change! I sure hope there are no side effects...

Done.

Are you wearing them the right way? Top is top, bottom is bottom? This is alarming because at least 50% of a knee guard's job is to not slide off the knee in a crash. And now they already slide off during walking? That doesn't instill confidence they will stay in place in a crash. Guess the design is faulty. I love this Chooch video, it demonstrates perfectly and visually what a good knee guard must do: cushion the initial impact, and then stay on the knee. You can see it right at the start of the video. Just imagine if they had not worked as intended...

Should be 20s4p 2900mAh. Gotway only uses 2900mAh or 3450mAh 18650 cells. As it's only the capacity that's smaller, the discharge rate should be the same as the 1020Wh Tesla. The 2900mAh cells are listed as Panasonic NCR 18650 PF. http://kebye.com/productinfo/371642.html

Thank you, I added it in. This list is getting too complicated. I split the list between official and unofficial models.

It seems semi-official. Maybe even with final assembly by Gotway themselves? I put it under unofficial because it's not listed on the Gotway site (and someone from Gotway even posted here some time and made clear everything not listed in their table is non-standard) and because it's only available on Ali. So for all intents and purposes, it's closer to being unofficial. Kebye is Gotway.

Thanks, I added it. I didn't know there is a 84V ~1860Wh MSX. Totally not confusing Looks like they do the math as 1600Wh (standard) + 259Wh extra pack = 1859Wh (1787Wh by cleaner math). It has 4 cells less than the 100V 1845Wh MSX.

Apparently there is basically no difference for the rider between the 18650 and 21700 cells they use. It's just easier (= cheaper) for Gotway to build packs with the bigger 21700 cells. The 1800Wh Nikola has two battery packs, one on each side, with nothing in the top space. So its center of gravity is lower. The 1845Wh has 3 packs (one on each side and one in the top space) so it has a higher center of gravity. I don't know if that actually makes any difference. On the other hand, 1845Wh > 1800Wh (1776Wh without rounding) so the 18650 Nikola gives you maybe 3km extra range (hey it's something!). And it's 6p instead of 4p (battery configuration), but I also don't know if that makes any difference here. You can't go wrong with either one, I think. Maybe it will be decided by price and seller options. (Here's a list of wheels by range (battery size) that I just made, maybe it helps somehow: click)

Rockwheel added! Adding battery configurations would make this unreadable. This is meant as a reasonably quick overview, mostly for new people wondering about what high range wheels there are

You should mostly ignore motor W numbers, they are surprisingly meaningless. The 18S is 67.2V, this alone would make the same motor a ~1900W motor if used with a 84V wheel, going by some manufacturer math. What matters is real world oomph, and you need to hear real world experiences for that. The 18S and 18XL are completely different wheels. The 18S is Kingsongs older 18 inch model which they "replaced" with the newer 18L/18XL. If you meant 18L vs. 18XL, the only notable difference should be battery size and weight. 18S pictures: https://www.google.com/search?q=kingsong+18s&tbm=isch 18L/18XL pictures: https://www.google.com/search?q=kingsong+18xl&tbm=isch

The peculiar form factor seemed to limit its appeal. Also reportedly the shell does seem to be a bit weak for sitting on, despite the shape inviting it. But I think there's a foam seat for it. It's a very fine wheel otherwise, and people who bought it never complained about anything. So if you like the form factor and the price is right... why not! As you mention looking for a large battery, here's a list of wheels sorted by range/battery size.

(Last updated October 2024) Here's a list of the electric unicycles (EUCs, wheels) with the biggest battery sizes (in Wh, Watt hours) and therefore ranges. Ordered by battery size, starting with the highest battery size. This should correspond to range, as two wheels with the same battery size will have the same or very similar ranges. Additionally there may be some smaller distinctions depending on efficiency or depending on how far a wheel with a given battery size charges and empties its battery. I cannot give the actual ranges because that depends very much on the rider's speed and weight. But for a given rider, bigger battery = more range (naturally). Never believe manufacturer range claims, these are laughably overstated. Only trust range tests from real riders, on this forum or YouTube, for example. - List of official wheel models by battery size/range (highest first, but no particular order inside each item). Bold are models currently in production or upcoming future models, the others are models no longer in production. Begode (= Gotway after they renamed themselves) Master Pro 4800Wh Extreme Bull Commander GT Pro+ 4440Wh - bigger battery version of the 3000Wh Commander GT Pro LeaperKim (= Veteran) Sherman L 4000Wh, Extreme Bull Commander Max (other potential names: Commander L or Bison) (upcoming) 4000Wh Begode Master X 3600Wh (Master Pro with smaller battery) and EX30 3600Wh and EX20S 3600Wh and Monster Pro 3600Wh, Extreme Bull Commander 3600Wh and Commander Pro 3600Wh, Veteran Sherman MAX 3600Wh and Sherman-S 3600Wh Veteran Sherman 3200Wh, Inmotion V13 Challenger 3024Wh (the battery size is the same as the Sherman, just computed differently; but its charging behavior might reduce the range a little bit) and V13 Pro 3024Wh (slightly upgraded V13), King Song F22 Pro (upcoming) 3100Wh (same as "3200Wh") Extreme Bull Commander GT Pro 3000Wh (higher voltage version of the 2400Wh Commander GT), Begode X-Way 168V 3000Wh and ET MAX 3000Wh Veteran Abrams 2700Wh and LeaperKim Lynx 2700Wh, Begode EX and EX.N 2700Wh and Nikola 100V 2700Wh and Nikola AR+ 2700Wh (nearly official - built by Begode, commissioned by Alien Rides), Extreme Bull Griffin 2700Wh Extreme Bull Commander Mini 2400Wh and Commander GT 2400Wh, Begode X-Way 134.4V 2400Wh and Blitz 2400Wh and Extreme 2400Wh and Master 2400Wh and Gotway Monster 84V 2400Wh, Inmotion Adventure ("V14") 2400Wh King Song S22/S22 Pro (same wheel, with latest updates from ca. 2023 on called S22 Pro, pre-release version known as S20) 2220Wh, Veteran Patton 2220Wh Nikola 84V 2100Wh Nikola 100V 1845Wh and Monster 100V 1845Wh King Song S19 1776Wh (the same as "1800Wh", just computed more honestly), Extreme Bull XM 1800Wh, Inmotion V12 1776Wh (the same as "1800Wh") and V12 Pro 1776Wh (slightly upgraded V12), Begode/Gotway T4 and T4 Pro (updated/replacement of T4) and T4 Max (upgraded T4 Pro) 1800Wh and Hero 1800Wh and RS 1800Wh and MSuper Pro 1800Wh and Nikola 100V 1800Wh King Song KS18S 1680Wh - Very old wheel, not to be confused with the much newer S18. King Song KS18XL 1554Wh (the same as "1600Wh") - This wheel empties the battery further than others, so it has a bit higher range than other 1600Wh wheels. One could argue that the 1845/1800Wh wheels, the 18S, and 18XL have more or less the same range. Not sure how true/exact that is. King Song KS16X 1554Wh (the same as "1600Wh") - Range between 18XL and 1600Wh Gotways, because it empties the battery to a state between those two. All 84V Gotways with 1600Wh battery (Nikola, MSuper X = MSX, Monster, ACM, MSuper V3) Inmotion V11 and V11Y (updated V11) 1500Wh - may empty batteries a bit further than the T3, so may have a little bit more range, Begode T3 (Tesla v3) 1500Wh, King Song S16 1480Wh (the same as 1500Wh) All 84V Gotways with 1300Wh battery (same models as 1600Wh) All 100V Gotways with 1230Wh battery (Monster, MSX, Nikola) King Song S18 1110Wh ~1000Wh wheels: King Song KS18L and Rockwheel GT16 have 1036Wh; Begode New RS/RS 2.0/RS 116V/RS Resolute and Gotway Tesla (v1, v2) have 1020Wh; Ninebot One Z10 995Wh; Inmotion V10F 950Wh For the rest, just compare battery sizes. A bigger battery means more range. List of ewheels-specific variants. ewheels is offering packs with lower capacity but different cells (e.g. higher discharge) on their store. To compare a model with an official model, simply look which one has the bigger battery, it will have the bigger range. Begode Master Pro 3840Wh (instead of the standard 4800Wh, which ewheels also sells) Begode EX30 2880Wh and EX20S 2880Wh and Master X 2880Wh (instead of the standard 3600Wh, which ewheels also sells) Begode Extreme 1920Wh and Master 1920Wh (instead of the standard 2400Wh, which ewheels also sells) King Song S22 Pro 1776Wh (instead of the standard 2220Wh) Begode RS 1496Wh (instead of the standard 1800Wh) Begode Nikola 100V 1451Wh (instead of the standard 1800Wh or 2700Wh) Begode T4 and T4 Pro and Hero 1440Wh, King Song S19 1440Wh (instead of the standard 1800Wh) King Song S18 903Wh (instead of the standard 1110Wh) - high discharge cells for much increased power output on the 3p battery List of some unofficial (modded) wheels by range. These are quite old now, from when the manufacturers did not offer the big battery sizes they do now. These mods could be found with various sellers on AliExpress or occasionally by the usual reputed sellers. For the sake of completeness and comparison, here are a few of the modded wheels. To compare one with any other wheel model, simply look which one has the bigger battery, it will have the bigger range. Monster 100V 3108Wh (same battery size as the "3200Wh" of the Sherman) Monster 100V 2700Wh, Nikola 100V 2700Wh (now there is the official Nikola 100V 2700Wh) Monster 100V 2460Wh MSX 100V 2200Wh MSX 100V 1845Wh (1860Wh is the same) MSX 84V "1859Wh" Tesla 1480Wh/1500Wh (later there was the official T3/Tesla v3 with the same battery size) I cannot competently judge the quality of the custom mods. Results were mixed. It depended on the seller and the details. - Please feel free to correct me if something is missing or wrong This is only a list by range. For many more specs on electric unicycles, check out the pinned topics in this forum!

Yep, this is the best way to clean a wheel! Works best if you allow the mud to dry. You can do the water tub method after you removed most of the mud and only have dust left. Brushes don't work at all.

You can PM now

Two wheels confirmed. Nice! Here it says it (whatever "it" is) has been delayed to maybe May or so: So I wouldn't bet on having one (one what?) in your hands in the first half of the year.

That's by design. Unfortunately this is necessary to prevent spammers PMing people. It will be gone soon.

Most likely just a bad charger. Wouldn't be the first time. Contact your seller, likely he'll send you a new charger before anything else. Too bad you have this problem right when you freshly got the wheel. Once everything works (and it will), you will be thrilled