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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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3 hours ago, Paul A said:

Maybe search YouTube for a shock absorber disassembly video.

Jupp... seen loads of youtube videos on the subject. And everyone just pulls it apart.
But the Begode one is not to be found on YT ;) .... and I know someone here have done it. 
Hammer is my next move ;)

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17 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Anybody know if the BIG Grizzla pads fit the Master (with Grizzlas backboard) ?

Cheers

They do I have tried them (Flow Big) but there's not a lot of real estate to move them around though, I have the normal flow now and love those.

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3 hours ago, Paul A said:

 

If not concerned about destroying the shock absorber, maybe just clamp it, and cut it open with an angle grinder.

Hahaha. Good response here. Maybe not the best advices, but still. 

Anyway. I managed to open it. I was actually jus me pulling and pushing in the wrong place.
Unfortunately I could only open the main chamber. The rebound valve sits in the other (negative?), so I could not inspect why it did not work. Was hoping to fix it to one in spare (got a new replacement from Begode.)

An observation. Many of the clonking sounds I had even on normal riding (not top and bottom out) are hugely reduced when using the rebound valve almost closed. 
I thought play in the linkage system would not not matter so much since it is always pressurized. But after this I suspect the linkage play to be a bit part of the clonking sounds problem.

Anyone who changed to Kuba linkage noticed less annoying sounds as well?
 

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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

Hahaha. Good response here. Maybe not the best advices, but still. 

Anyway. I managed to open it. I was actually jus me pulling and pushing in the wrong place.
Unfortunately I could only open the main chamber. The rebound valve sits in the other (negative?), so I could not inspect why it did not work. Was hoping to fix it to one in spare (got a new replacement from Begode.)

An observation. Many of the clonking sounds I had even on normal riding (not top and bottom out) are hugely reduced when using the rebound valve almost closed. 
I thought play in the linkage system would not not matter so much since it is always pressurized. But after this I suspect the linkage play to be a bit part of the clonking sounds problem.

Anyone who changed to Kuba linkage noticed less annoying sounds as well?
 

No weird sounds with Kuba linkage and Rockshox shock (Kuba is not compatible with stock one different diameter fastener 12.7mm).

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7 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Nice!

Does the reduction in bump travel matter?
(Does the shock use all this travel, before the EUC suspension hits its endstops?)

No. The Russians made a graph for the linkage,  and they stopped just before 25mm suspension travel. I tested to 30mm just to see the direction of the graph beyond...

What I am saying is that less than 25mm suspension travel gives 75mm wheel travel.

0-25mm is the most interesting measurement. This the first proto I am testing in the rig. It is 23milli litre in volume. 20mm high. I will make one that is 30milli litre in volume as well to measure the difference,  but my TPU is all out 

With this reducer mounted I have 37mm suspension travel available. Only need max 25mm.

 🤪

Edited by EUCzero
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I do not think any shock is designed to allow use of 100% of its range, but less than half is BAD. 
Unless that is how to shock is designed to work best.

But the Begode shock do not work at is best this way, It becomes almost linear, the the linkage is also linear. So....
I will do more tests today. Keep you all posted.
With a few different reducer sizes.

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11 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Yes I have the new card, no idea how to install lol.  Was looking for a video.  

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The 27m.litr volume reducer helped a LOT. but still not perfect. 
But I ran into some issues when I wanted to mount in into my new replacement shock from Begode.
Hehe. The new shock have a few improvements, that made it more difficult for me.
First it was locked with red thread lock. Probably to prevent leakage. I read some have leaking suspension.
Next, there was a foam pad inside, dripping of oil. Probably there to keep the oil inside, lubricating the shaft on every compression.

These two things made it a bit more difficult installing the volume reducer. 
Also....  there is something going on in the second chamber. Now I have to pump the shock up to 70psi for it to extend all the way. If I release the pressure, it will detract. This is not the behaviour the old shock had. It like I now need 70 psi higher pressure than before just to compensate. 

So I do not have any conclusion yet. In the test rig it was fine. Test values perfect. Very nice progressive curve. But I must have done something to it after.

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15 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Oh right, found your video in the stories thing, looks like I need to get some pliers 😂

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8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Also....  there is something going on in the second chamber. Now I have to pump the shock up to 70psi for it to extend all the way.

Does the new shock have a second valve for the negative chamber? If not, you could be facing the behavior explained here:

https://bikeco.com/rear-shock-negative-air-pressure/

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1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

Does the new shock have a second valve for the negative chamber? If not, you could be facing the behavior explained here:

https://bikeco.com/rear-shock-negative-air-pressure/

No valve... so... thank. Will look into it.

 

... aaab. Is I suspected and read before. Thank.

So my new shock is different it the way that my old one probably hade a defective neg. chamber. The rebound adjustment did not work, and the top out would always be violent. Both the rebound adjustment and the negative chamber should prevent that.

Also means I need different psi on the new one to get the same dampening.

Anyway. I went for 300psi. Still cushy on small bumps. No bottom out on 30-40cm hard drop. Before the volume reducer it did.

I can really feel the progressive damping now.

I will put the stl files on thingiverse.com tonight.

Edited by EUCzero
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13 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Did you just pull out the power connector to the control board, press power button to drain then swap the display board out?  

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1 hour ago, Topkek said:

Did you just pull out the power connector to the control board, press power button to drain then swap the display board out?  

Yes...

Be VERY careful using the metal plyer still. Could be small charges in other capacitors on the board as well. So sometimes some tape around the peak on the plyer is a good idea. 

Instagram cut the video when I drained it by powering on.

I am told that on some boards you have to remove the upper main board to find the small one. But on my wheel it was super easy.

 

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4 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Yes...

Be VERY careful using the metal plyer still. Could be small charges in other capacitors on the board as well. So sometimes some tape around the peak on the plyer is a good idea. 

Instagram cut the video when I drained it by powering on.

I am told that on some boards you have to remove the upper main board to find the small one. But on my wheel it was super easy.

 

Does Begode sends the small board under warranty? Do we have to contact the dealers?

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It is live.

A 27 milli litre volume reducer specially made for the begode Master is now on thingiverse.com 
Print in TPU 100% infill.

A have desgned it, but YOU mount it and use it an your own risk. Pressure inside the shock will now rise more progressive, and therefor not bottom out so easy. BUT.... the pressure WHEN and IF you bottom out will also be higher. Chance Hinz have a start pressure of 420psi (very high in my opinion) without a volume reducer, but that does not mean it is made for it. 

With the volume reducer you should probably NOT pump it that high as it will rise much quicker when compressed.

The newest shock from Begode also had an oil drenched piece of foam inside. Print the "volumereducer_mountingplate" and use it to compress the foam and keep it out of the way while mounting the volume reducer.

Her you find the files:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5647308

A video of the mounting process will come, but for now, use the Instagram video showing one of the prototypes.
https://www.instagram.com/p/ClCY4jkMzla/

Edited by EUCzero
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