Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[EUCzero]

Anyway. The Master is the wheel I got now, and I need to find a sollution for all the different problems.

Anyone designed any 3D printed sealed lid for the controller box of the Master? (If not I have to look into that.)
Anyone got rid of the slack moving it forward and back?

 

[Aztek]

5 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

This is very interesting. Because yesterday, it did not work if the wheel wast resting off for some time... Then after riding a but, heating it up, I could get it working again by resetting the wheel. But every time it had become colder it would not work. Thank you. Is it ALL wheels or just some?
 

Many, as it seems. Although I can't imagine this to be a firmware issue.

Seems as some contacts are malfunctioning in cold weather.

 

[Cerbera]

6 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Seems as some contacts are malfunctioning in cold weather.

But aren't those the same type of connectors they have been using between boards for years ? I do wonder why we are only hearing about this now, and not with all the previous models that use this screen... or perhaps are the connectors different on the Master for some reason ?

Sods law that mine is arriving just as temp dips below 20 for the rest of the year...  I will certainly report if I have display problems.

[Cerbera]

I am kinda gutted that @UtahRider cancelled his master - I was sort of using him, as someone whose opinion I muchly respect, as a sort of unofficial benchmark for whether I should cancel my own order !  I think mine is literally going in the delivery truck on Monday, so it's 'shit or get off the pot' time !

Trouble is I am not even on the toilet - I am still somewhat on the fence, much to my annoyance. 

Yes we have seen lots of problems with the masters, but quite a few of those are fairly easily solved or mitigated in practice (adding extra padding to batteries for example), or by initial and thereafter regular thorough inspections of components (looking for trapped / rubbing wires, checking inner metal mudguard for cracking around bolts etc).

I am not massively bothered if the display or front light doesn't work when its cold, presuming that doesn't affect anything else about the machine. We know the connectors used for batteries and power have no issues in colder temps, so not a safety concern as far as balancing is concerned right ?

I am not worried about water ingress with the extra padding I am going to do, and because I won't be riding this in heavy rain, and will cover the wheel if I get caught out.

Lastly, I am not going to ride that wheel as aggressively as @UtahRider would have done (not a criticism - my riding style is just a bit less extreme on the brakings and accelerations), and I won't be making it go up and down vast sets of steps or giving it really anything to do which shouldn't be well within its limits. In some ways I am buying this wheel not because I want to go much faster than my MS3 already can (of course there will be times), but more because I want the additional comfort of suspension and the extra headroom and theoretically less chance of cutouts at lower speeds.

Lastly, and this SHOULDN'T weigh into my decision at all, but definitely does, is that my beloved MS3 is dying, and if I don't get a new wheel soon I will have to retire it and be left with no wheel if I cancel the master !! yes there are alternatives, but none of them as exciting as a Master will be, if it works !

If it makes any difference I have bought mine through Speedyfeet in the UK, who is doing his own QA on the Masters now they have arrived. This also gives me some extra confidence.

So, given that it is decision time, somewhat incredulously, I am still leaning in the direction of not cancelling. This is anyone's last chance to tell me if they think I am wrong, or mad, or to give me good reasons why I should cancel instead ! Please and thank you !

 

 

Edited October 8, 2022 by Cerbera

[EUCzero]

I think it will be solid IF you are ready to mod and mod and mod and mod and modify.

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Yes we have seen lots of problems with the masters, but quite a few of those are fairly easily solved or mitigated in practice

There doesn't seem to exist a decent solution for the slack in the suspension tubes though. Which can easily destroy the pedal feel or "GW glide" completely.

[Cerbera]

2 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

There doesn't seem to exist a decent solution for the slack in the suspension tubes though. Which can easily destroy the pedal feel or "GW glide" completely.

Thank you, that's a good point. But I guess I can't know if that'll be an issue for me until I try it...

[Rawnei]

2 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Anyway. The Master is the wheel I got now, and I need to find a sollution for all the different problems.

Anyone designed any 3D printed sealed lid for the controller box of the Master? (If not I have to look into that.)
Anyone got rid of the slack moving it forward and back?

 

I put some silicone around the top edges of the plastic cover, not sure how much it helps.

Can't get rid of the slack completely, you can put some thin tape around the bushings to make it smaller but can't get rid of it 100%.

[Cerbera]

21 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Can't get rid of the slack completely, you can put some thin tape around the bushings to make it smaller but can't get rid of it 100%.

Does anyone consider it worth what is presumably a ridiculously finicky job of cutting holes in that tape, so lubrication of that side can continue despite it ?

[Planemo]

3 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Anyone designed any 3D printed sealed lid for the controller box of the Master? (If not I have to look into that.)

@AK euc made a carbon cover for his Master, not sure if it's similar to what you mean:

 

[dangasaur]

@Cerberayour post is exactly how I feel and I have the same dilemma.  In addition to the issues you listed (and the slack issue is far and away my biggest worry) my order from ewheels has taken longer than I expected.  Now our weather is turning here in the Midwest and I'm worried that I'm going to end up with a project wheel during the worst part of the riding season.  That's not a great feeling considering the expense. 

I hate to delay or cancel my order but I'm now leaning in that direction in the hopes that by spring more issues will be worked out.  

 

[Aztek]

2 hours ago, mrelwood said:

There doesn't seem to exist a decent solution for the slack in the suspension tubes though.

I don't have this. I'm very happy of the fact.

[Paul g]

3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I am kinda gutted that @UtahRider cancelled his master - I was sort of using him, as someone whose opinion I muchly respect, as a sort of unofficial benchmark for whether I should cancel my own order !  I think mine is literally going in the delivery truck on Monday, so it's 'shit or get off the pot' time !

Trouble is I am not even on the toilet - I am still somewhat on the fence, much to my annoyance. 

Yes we have seen lots of problems with the masters, but quite a few of those are fairly easily solved or mitigated in practice (adding extra padding to batteries for example), or by initial and thereafter regular thorough inspections of components (looking for trapped / rubbing wires, checking inner metal mudguard for cracking around bolts etc).

I am not massively bothered if the display or front light doesn't work when its cold, presuming that doesn't affect anything else about the machine. We know the connectors used for batteries and power have no issues in colder temps, so not a safety concern as far as balancing is concerned right ?

I am not worried about water ingress with the extra padding I am going to do, and because I won't be riding this in heavy rain, and will cover the wheel if I get caught out.

Lastly, I am not going to ride that wheel as aggressively as @UtahRider would have done (not a criticism - my riding style is just a bit less extreme on the brakings and accelerations), and I won't be making it go up and down vast sets of steps or giving it really anything to do which shouldn't be well within its limits. In some ways I am buying this wheel not because I want to go much faster than my MS3 already can (of course there will be times), but more because I want the additional comfort of suspension and the extra headroom and theoretically less chance of cutouts at lower speeds.

Lastly, and this SHOULDN'T weigh into my decision at all, but definitely does, is that my beloved MS3 is dying, and if I don't get a new wheel soon I will have to retire it and be left with no wheel if I cancel the master !! yes there are alternatives, but none of them as exciting as a Master will be, if it works !

If it makes any difference I have bought mine through Speedyfeet in the UK, who is doing his own QA on the Masters now they have arrived. This also gives me some extra confidence.

So, given that it is decision time, somewhat incredulously, I am still leaning in the direction of not cancelling. This is anyone's last chance to tell me if they think I am wrong, or mad, or to give me good reasons why I should cancel instead ! Please and thank you !

 

 

@Cerbera , come on bro, I don’t wanna see you hurting. The nonMaster it’s only starting to show off its Be**** quality. The more time passes by, the more they will fall like flies. At least give yourself some time to check in person the ShermS if you’re really on the look out for a suspension. 

[Lets Do Science]

Paying ~$3200 for your wheel and feeling obligated to mod it to such extremes as some of these riders are is just absurd. Side note, the margins on everything relating to our hobby is just gross and exploitative - looking at you clark pads. 

Edited October 8, 2022 by Lets Do Science
spelling

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Does anyone consider it worth what is presumably a ridiculously finicky job of cutting holes in that tape, so lubrication of that side can continue despite it ?

You put the tape on the outside not the inside.

 

23 minutes ago, Aztek said:

I don't have this. I'm very happy of the fact.

All Masters have it, it's mechanical, maybe you just don't notice it.

[Raptor]

3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I am kinda gutted that @UtahRider cancelled his master - I was sort of using him, as someone whose opinion I muchly respect, as a sort of unofficial benchmark for whether I should cancel my own order !  I think mine is literally going in the delivery truck on Monday, so it's 'shit or get off the pot' time !

Trouble is I am not even on the toilet - I am still somewhat on the fence, much to my annoyance. 

Yes we have seen lots of problems with the masters, but quite a few of those are fairly easily solved or mitigated in practice (adding extra padding to batteries for example), or by initial and thereafter regular thorough inspections of components (looking for trapped / rubbing wires, checking inner metal mudguard for cracking around bolts etc).

I am not massively bothered if the display or front light doesn't work when its cold, presuming that doesn't affect anything else about the machine. We know the connectors used for batteries and power have no issues in colder temps, so not a safety concern as far as balancing is concerned right ?

I am not worried about water ingress with the extra padding I am going to do, and because I won't be riding this in heavy rain, and will cover the wheel if I get caught out.

Lastly, I am not going to ride that wheel as aggressively as @UtahRider would have done (not a criticism - my riding style is just a bit less extreme on the brakings and accelerations), and I won't be making it go up and down vast sets of steps or giving it really anything to do which shouldn't be well within its limits. In some ways I am buying this wheel not because I want to go much faster than my MS3 already can (of course there will be times), but more because I want the additional comfort of suspension and the extra headroom and theoretically less chance of cutouts at lower speeds.

Lastly, and this SHOULDN'T weigh into my decision at all, but definitely does, is that my beloved MS3 is dying, and if I don't get a new wheel soon I will have to retire it and be left with no wheel if I cancel the master !! yes there are alternatives, but none of them as exciting as a Master will be, if it works !

If it makes any difference I have bought mine through Speedyfeet in the UK, who is doing his own QA on the Masters now they have arrived. This also gives me some extra confidence.

So, given that it is decision time, somewhat incredulously, I am still leaning in the direction of not cancelling. This is anyone's last chance to tell me if they think I am wrong, or mad, or to give me good reasons why I should cancel instead ! Please and thank you !

 

Hello .
There is absolutely no play in my master suspension and pedal position !!!
To achieve this state, the batteries and shock absorber must be removed for a while! Now the screws for fixing the slider bushings must be adjusted exactly in place! Adjust first on one side and then on the other! You can't stay slack, but you can't get stuck either! If there is no shock absorber attached, it can be felt very well and easily. There is no need to add anything to the bushings!!! In order for the end of the damping stroke to be smooth, it is possible to glue a 40mm high EVA foam pyramid to the trapezoid of the sliders (like the impact bushing of cars!). My Master has perfect suspension performance and there is no swinging of the pedals either!
All this is super easy to arrange. The only thing could be even better if the travel length of the suspension was at least 15 cm! then the initial height of the EUC would be absurdly high .

The only problem with the Master is the driving range ! If you have found a comfortable speed while driving the previous EUC, then when you get the Master, add at least 20 km/h to it! Because Master leaves you feeling that you are still driving slowly and safely! However, due to this higher average speed, the battery is consumed much more

Edited October 8, 2022 by Raptor

[Aztek]

15 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

All Masters have it, it's mechanical, maybe you just don't notice it.

Which is like... The same

No, don't think so, the thing is stiff as a stone monolith on accelerating and breaking.

Edited October 8, 2022 by Aztek

[dangasaur]

@Raptorwhat version of the master do you have?

[Rawnei]

11 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Which is like... The same

No, don't think so, the thing is stiff as a stone monolith on accelerating and breaking.

Maybe you are misunderstanding the issue, with the wheel turned on, without standing on it, wiggle it back and forth and you notice the center has play, maybe not an issue for you but for many riders like myself who likes to do technical off road and such it's very distracting, plus I can definitely feel it when riding seated.

[Aztek]

43 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

wiggle it back and forth and you notice the center has play

Sadly you're right. There's a bit of play. More like the upper part swings around an axis... Just a little bit. It doesn't bother me.

Can't reproduce a swing by holding and moving the pedals though.

I'll try the above advice by @Raptor

Edited October 8, 2022 by Aztek

[Greg X]

maybe You know, if there is a chance for Master with little bigger battery 2800-3000wh?

This model is close to sweet spot for most riders, needs just little bigger range. Ok, we will have ex30 soon, but this is already very heavy and very expensive euc, Master is lighter and much better priced.

 

I've heard, that we have already Master batch3. What was updated in newest batch, in comparison to batch2 ???

Edited October 8, 2022 by Greg X

[Tawpie]

5 hours ago, Cerbera said:

give me good reasons why I should cancel instead ! Please and thank you !

Given you're mentally and financially prepared to mod mod mod, and (at least for now) you won't be demanding large travel from the suspension, there aren't any good reasons I can see to cancel. Personally, there are only two reasons I wouldn't buy a Master: fear of it breaking in half while cartwheeling down a hill, and the limited suspension travel. The breaking in half can be somewhat addressed with time and money (even the V1 series-battery wheel can be rectified with enough money) but if you see yourself graduating to riding "the big stuff" the travel is fixed at 80mm. But you're not planning to be a rough rider, so I think you'll be very happy!

Edited October 8, 2022 by Tawpie

[EMA]

i put some super thin 3d printed layer on bushings to reduce slack, almost non existent on my wheel .

this wheel is absolutely insane fun to ride, don't know how people can complain so much 

Edited October 8, 2022 by EMA

[Rawnei]

58 minutes ago, EMA said:

i put some super thin 3d printed layer on bushings to reduce slack, almost non existent on my wheel .

this wheel is absolutely insane fun to ride, don't know how people can complain so much 

Maybe it's fun because yours is working? 🤣

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, Tawpie said:

The breaking in half can be somewhat addressed with time and money (even the V1 series-battery wheel can be rectified with enough money) but if you see yourself graduating to riding "the big stuff" the travel is fixed at 80mm. But you're not planning to be a rough rider, so I think you'll be very happy!

Thank you, thats quite reassuring, and as it happens I am an incredibly light rider (just over 55 KG) which is why I think that limited range suspension on that wheel might be enough for me to not bottom out in the 200-250 PSI range. And I got a leash on standby to stop it flying off down the road bouncing itself to oblivion should the falls be unavoidable. And if we can fix that play with simple 3D printed rings I will do that if it turns out to be problematic.

Yep, thanks to all your various helpful inputs I am coming down off the fence now, and I am feeling better about just letting it arrive.