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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


onkeldanuel

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Thanks for your input everyone.

So @Freestyler analyzed the difference between v1 and v2 firmwares and found a discrepancy in the PID settings between them, here's a video demonstrating PID:

So with this knowledge @Freestyler made a test version for me to test on my V2 that has the same PID values from the V1 before they were changed, I went on the first test ride just now and the difference was very obvious to me, I'm now actually enjoying the wheel!

It still has a little bit of slack but it feels mechanical in nature and probably something that I can fine tune now with the bushing screws for better results but already it's such an improvement and much more enjoyable to ride than before.

So @Pål Hammar Rognøy looks like we weren't insane after all. 😅

My first ride wasn't so extreme, I topped 54kmh at some point but rode pretty chill overall, did some uneven terrain, seated riding, very small skatepark jumps and stairs, things that needs to be tested further just to rule out the risk of oscillations with these settings: hard accelerations, hard braking, sustained 60kmh speeds, I will test that on the next ride.

finally :D

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5 hours ago, Rawnei said:

I would like to ask a favor of current Master owners to find more information and possibly identify the root cause regarding the play/slack/deadzone that some of us experience.

If you own a Master could you check your firmware version by connecting to it using EUC Dash: https://freestyl3r.github.io/euc-dash/begode.html and report if you experience slack/play in the middle of your wheel or no slack/play, with this data @Freestyler can compare some values and see if we can find a root cause in software.

For example I will start with my own wheel:

Firmware Version: 2014902

Slack: Yes

Doesn't appear the link works for me on iPhone/Mac. 

The slop/play is particularly egregious on mine. If the root cause is firmware related... rejoice! I can start thinking about doing pad and suspension upgrades but have been holding off because this.

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6 minutes ago, Mango said:

Doesn't appear the link works for me on iPhone/Mac. 

The slop/play is particularly egregious on mine. If the root cause is firmware related... rejoice! I can start thinking about doing pad and suspension upgrades but have been holding off because this.

Before resorting to FW upgrades to fix the problem, make the hardware adjustments first. On page 79 you find more info on adjusting the sliders. Some riders tell they could fix all play by adjusting the sliders. 

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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

Hehe. @Rawnei  I tried to change my Nic, but could not, so I had to make a new user. I am sorry. I only use this one.
Anyway. Topic Master.

As my rebound adjustment do not work, I made a 3d print to dampen the top out klonk. Printed is TPU.
I am still trying different infill percent. 20% is to soft and weak. Feel free to try if you have rebound issues.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5596640

There is not much for the Begode Master on Thingiverse. Are there any other 3D print platforms with more stuff for the Master?

 

Since you're sticking with the Master as your only wheel I strongly suggest you invest in the Kuba links and a Rockshox shock whenever you can, it will be a nice upgrade for you.

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On 11/5/2022 at 5:22 PM, EUCzero said:

10mm play measured on the highest point of my wheel (seat/handle).

Really annoying when riding slow off road. And it also makes a klicking sound when tipping forward and back when riding.

 

Need to find out what’s causing this exactly as this is hampering my tire change. I’d like to eventually change to a different tire but afraid I’ll induce this play and that would ruin it for me.

@iCafe since you have several Masters, have you experienced this pedal play issue and/or know the cause? Thanks.

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@techyiam

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

@Schmudel

If you mind my asking, how was purchasing experience with smartwheels? Thanks.

It was Ok. There was not much communication on the order delays. However, the shipping estimate they gave was pretty accurate. I am currently in conversation with them about my Master not reporting motor current correctly. So far they have been very responsive.

So overall It has been a positive experience.

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Was at a bike park today with my Master and it started doing a long beep short beep pattern over and over again. Turning it off and back on did not stop it. It is constant. I messaged alien rides and haven't heard from them yet. Anyone know what this code means?

Edit: it still balances and rides fine though I haven't ridden it over a couple miles an hour since it started.

Edited by Garzal
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On 11/6/2022 at 3:29 PM, Sprite said:

Wait.. tell me more about that seat. How did you mount it? do you have close up pictures?

Per request:

On 11/7/2022 at 4:48 AM, Mitch G said:

uGdCmyO.jpgKhUYohN.jpg

Today I swapped my old 3500 mile kenda tire for a new shinko 241. The Shinko was a direct fit and didnt require any spacers or shaving to make it fit. 

Out of the CST, Kenda and Shinko 241, The shinko 241 is my favorite. 

On the street, the CST wants to fall into corners, the Shinko is more neutral handling and my old worn out Kenda didnt want to lean into corners and instead stayed upright and required the rider to hang off the side of the wheel to force it to turn much like street tires handle. The shinko leans into corners like most knobby tires and then just hold that lean angle. IMO a new kenda and a new Shinko would handle similar on the street but they all start to handle like a street tire after you wear the knobs down. The Shinko is also much quieter than my Kenda and CST but that may just be due to soft new rubber on the Shinko compared to my worn out Kenda. 

Off road, the shinko has the best grip out of the 3. IMO this is because the grooves are wider on the Shinko compared to the CST and Kenda. I am able to corner much faster and with more lean angle on my local trail with the Shinko installed compared to the old Kenda which is mostly due to age on the Kenda but I believe the Shinko would still have more grip than a new Kenda. 

Id like to see how the shinko 244 handles but the size of the huge knobs on that tire just seem excessive for our use IMO.

Turns out I put an old Shinko SR244 on this Master.  I was going to put a round street tire on it but the tire changed so easy and I just so happened to have the SR244 from a few years ago that I had put onto my MSX100V for a short time.  Back then it felt like too much friction before I figured out the better side-knob-shaving with the SR241 that's on my MSX100V to this day (1000 miles later).

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22 hours ago, Garzal said:

Was at a bike park today with my Master and it started doing a long beep short beep pattern over and over again. Turning it off and back on did not stop it. It is constant. I messaged alien rides and haven't heard from them yet. Anyone know what this code means?

Edit: it still balances and rides fine though I haven't ridden it over a couple miles an hour since it started.

Is the sound like this?

https://streamable.com/cex38c

 

Courtesy of @RolluS

 

Also connect here and check the Fault alarms field

https://freestyl3r.github.io/euc-dash/begode.html

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3 hours ago, Freestyler said:

Is the sound like this?

https://streamable.com/cex38c

 

Courtesy of @RolluS

 

Also connect here and check the Fault alarms field

https://freestyl3r.github.io/euc-dash/begode.html

That is the exact noise. And I tried connecting on the other thread, the fault field gives no info.

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I've sorted out by upgrading firmware. Downgrade and beeps are back.

But... After dismantling the wheel and with motor câbles still connected (wheel on the side, be careful to not launch the motor while dismantled), no beeps on old version. It might be the hall sensor failure detection routine as per investigated by @Freestyler

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2 hours ago, RolluS said:

I've sorted out by upgrading firmware. Downgrade and beeps are back.

But... After dismantling the wheel and with motor câbles still connected (wheel on the side, be careful to not launch the motor while dismantled), no beeps on old version. It might be the hall sensor failure detection routine as per investigated by @Freestyler

 

Yeap, they changed something on the hall sensor error reporting routine on the newer firmware.

Either it misreported a hall sensor error when it shouldn't or there is indeed a hall sensor error and they masked it.

Although I don't think a hall sensor can partially work. It either works or it doesn't.

Only Begode can now for sure, so I would definitely bring it on with them!

 

1 hour ago, Aztek said:

Do you have issues connecting through this web tool?

I cannot scan and connect to my Master, no matter which browser I use (on iOS).

Use the free app: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/bluefy-web-ble-browser/id1492822055

or paid app: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/webble/id1193531073

Or maybe something else works as well such as opera. Don't have iOS myself to test!

 

Edited by Freestyler
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1 hour ago, RolluS said:

I've sorted out by upgrading firmware. Downgrade and beeps are back.

But... After dismantling the wheel and with motor câbles still connected (wheel on the side, be careful to not launch the motor while dismantled), no beeps on old version. It might be the hall sensor failure detection routine as per investigated by @Freestyler

that's the official answer i get from BG :

Has this problem been solved This is because the mainboard detects that the power supply is abnormal

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Quick question - what spec inner tube should I be looking at for the master ?

I can't find any that are 20 x 2.75 (or 20 x 3.0) which is what I thought we needed... I suspect I might be wrong. presumably it will tell me when I get mine out, but my tyre irons are taking ages to get here, so won't be changing tyres til next week, and want a spare inner tube in case I kill one.

Edited by Cerbera
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2 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Quick question - what spec inner tube should I be looking at for the master ?

I can't find any that are 20 x 2.75 (or 20 x 3.0) which is what I thought we needed... or is it done on rim size, so maybe 14 x 2.75 ?

18*3.0 or 2.75-14

i don't know if 20*3.0 exist, should be fine anyway

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OK, let me try and understand the weird syntax here: - that's 2 variations of essentially the same thing, right ?

If the large number is first that is referring to the outer diameter of the wheel, and if it is last it is the inner diameter ?

Confusing as hell that the actual diameter of the wheel, 20'' isn't mentioned at all in the inner tubes apparently for it !

I'll trust you and try and find one of those specs in the UK...

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37 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

OK, let me try and understand the weird syntax here: - that's 2 variations of essentially the same thing, right ?

If the large number is first that is referring to the outer diameter of the wheel, and if it is last it is the inner diameter ?

Confusing as hell that the actual diameter of the wheel, 20'' isn't mentioned at all in the inner tubes apparently for it !

I'll trust you and try and find one of those specs in the UK...

 

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7 hours ago, EMA said:

that's the official answer i get from BG :

Has this problem been solved This is because the mainboard detects that the power supply is abnormal

It makes sense considering how my batteries were barely connected...

But why with *104 firmware but not with *103 firmware? (T4 versions number)

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