meepmeepmayer

I assume it's the "Bububut it's not perfect!!" excuse.

Like half of this forum is 55 or older. No reason to worry you're too old.

Charge to 100% to confirm the battery is ok. Good idea, can't hurt. Keep the charger in overnight so there's enough balance time. Do not store (~weeks or months) the battery at full or very empty (and not in ice cold or hot conditions). That's all. Batteries are meant to be used and charged. Nothing wrong with charging to 100% if you use it soon Don't worry, charge if you may need it and for safety, enjoy the ride.

The arguments may be useful if people start some stupid moral panic about PEVs. Fight fire with fire.

Disclaimer: I'm certainly no expert. From what I have been told... These serially connected packs will not auto-balance and have the same voltage (unlike parallelly connected parts). So even if there is an extra BMS in the extra mini pack (I wouldn't bet on it), you'd also need an overall BMS between the 2 packs. I guess you can very often charge to 100% and keep the charger in to get all cells to the same voltage (or hope so). But it is not professional (at least) to build it like this. There's no check on what the battery is doing.

The MSP pretty much replaces the 84V MSX. About the same topspeed, but more power/torque/oomph. The 100V is still faster. I wouldn't be surprised if they released an MSX upgrade soon with the new board, lights etc. of the MSP. But any MSX is still a great and proven wheel and they can be had for good prices, especially used. Some people were selling them for like $1200.

No dreaming necessary. There are plenty of riders like you! The two things about higher weight riding to consider: if you crash, that weight will come down on your arms etc. And you will lose some range compared to lighter riders. So losing a bit of weight would give you a double bonus, should you need some motivation Or one of the wide tire "16 inch" (more like almost 18) ones: Nikola or 16X. But the MSX/MSP or 18XL are great for you, too.

The voltage measurement is never very exact. Can be off +-1V under normal circumstances.

The overvoltage alarm should sound when the wheel is on, whether the charger is in or not. But in doubt check without the charger. 25 min isn't very long. I think it will just need some more time. Maybe check every 15 or 30 minutes (depending how paranoid you are). It may very well take 2 hours or more before the battery is actually full and the charger switches off. When you have a new (first) wheel, you notice every tiny peculiarity and worry something is wrong. I did that too. Usually it's nothing. Probably your symptoms amount to exactly nothing. So don't be concerned That's not how it works. Depleting the battery does nothing. Charging to 100% and keeping the battery there (ideally overnight with the charger in) can balance the cells, but you can do that any time. And do that after it is confirmed your charger isn't overcharging (which you can check by seeing what appears first - green light or an overvoltage alarm, and which is just a tiny theoretical possibility).

Which app? Did it not turn green as soon as the app displayed 100%, or did you keep it in for a while (how long?) and it still wouldn't go green? Ideas: Different apps may have different 100% thresholds, so wheel and app may not always agree. It may take a while before the charging is finished. If you had the charger in for a while after it you were at 100%: to make sure the charger is ok and not set to a too high voltage, you can switch the wheel on and check if there is an overvoltage alarm at regular intervals. It's probably nothing but it never hurts to be careful.

Twice as powerful and therefore safe. This is exactly the right reaction to such an event. Your wheel is too weak for what you want to do? Get a stronger one. I agree that a motorcycle jacket or similar can't hurt - Enjoy your upcoming Nikola!

A nice wide tire wheel (Nikola, 16X, MSX/MSP) should be all that's needed. I specifically mean 4x4 tracks or routes mainly intended as such - I don't think we have many of those in Europe, though, so this is for NA riders. Should be no harder than a mountain bike path, probably easier in most cases.

One more inspirational video. You can even do both trips in a round tour for an incredible (and long) day ride.

Any mountain bike route is in principle open to EUC riding. But so is any 4x4 offroad track or route, if it isn't too bad (mud, big rocks). Has anybody tried some 4x4 track, usually driven by offroad jeeps, with an electric unicycle? It seems perfect for an offroad riding experience. Half of this topic is wondering if someone has done it, half of it is meant as inspiration for those who can to do it (and make a video for our benefit)! Just watch this video (the very end is the best), for example, and tell me this isn't the most glorious, incredible views and route to be attempted by an electric unicycle! And the logistics seem easy - find someone to drop you off at the start and pick you up again on the end, while they go the usual roads and enjoy their own excursion. Shouldn't be hard to find some willing trip companions in scenery like this. So if you have the chance to do it...

Nice video! A very interesting new motor How does it compare to the Nik/16X uphills and downhills/braking?

@mrelwood You think this might just be serious battery imbalance? 50% capacity loss?

Hmmm... this is such a specific issue, maybe your seller knows best? I can only guess. But if both packs work and charge/discharge the same, how can it be the battery packs? On the other hand, what else but the battery packs is left as a source of this issue now? I still wouldn't rule out the possibility that it's the board somehow. But I don't know. What you can do is carefully have a look at everything and systematically* check every single cable, connector, board component and whatever else there is. Maybe you see something. Maybe post some detailed photos if you think it might help. (*It's super easy to overlook even obvious damage if you don't systematically check every part there is.)

You don't need anyone's permission to edit your posts Why? If it works already, it won't get better. But it can get worse. On the other hand, a calibration is no big deal, so it won't kill anyone either My opinion is: No need to introduce a possible point of error. I'm mainly worried about a newbie calibrating a good wheel (no pedal dipping or such) and then having to re-calibrate a few times until everything works again, possibly not knowing the side-lean is what counts. Some boards (sensor) seem to be a bit finicky if you have bad luck. Well, it's no point where one opinion is wrong and the other is right. Just preferences... I calibrated my ACM once 3 years ago and everything is perfect today still so that's where I am coming from.

Yep we figured that out. I didn't realize you meant a physical store. Good plan! I don't think there is a physical store there. This makes more sense. Maybe a hotel or something (whatever it takes, right?)? Or some helpful Cyprus EUC rider. I applaud your EUC dedication Good luck!

https://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ sells the Z10 and has a good reputation. Maybe they have spare tires. Worth asking. Or any other European Z10 seller...

A short (motor power wires?) may have damaged the hall sensors and your old board, and then your new board when you tried that. I'm afraid a new motor and board are the minimum necessary to fix your wheel. Hopefully your battery packs are ok! What a crazy bad luck for such a new wheel What is your seller? Do you have warranty? Can you do a return/replacement? I'd disassemble and carefully look everywhere (motor, board, battery connectors) for any damage. So at least maybe you get a hint what happened.

No need to calibrate unless you get pedal dipping in curves or any other strange pedal behavior. Never change a running system

Greece and Cyprus = EU... can't you just order to Cyprus from any EU store? Some may even have free shipping. Good prices (for example, there are tons of EU shops): https://eunicycles.eu/en/

You can't tell from any app, as the wheel only reports the voltage, which doesn't tell you anything about the number of packs. You can do a range test, it should be pretty definitive (half the range). For checking, you only need to remove both side panels. It's no big deal, there should be no silicone in your way (only the pedals and the side panel screws) with the MSX. The left side (no-board side) battery pack connects on the left side to a cable which goes across the wheel to the other side into a Y connector. That's also what the right (board) side battery pack connects to. And this in turn is connected to the board. So four connectors to check (unless I'm mistaken, you will see). If one battery pack is disconnected, be careful plugging them back together as they now might have different voltages. Maybe charge the wheel to 100% with each of the packs disconnected respectively, so they are at the same charge state when you re-connect them. You can also test the wheel with each of the packs disconected, respectively, to see if both packs are good or one is bad (does not charge to 100%, does not work, ...).

Yes!! Very true. Your brain does half the work on your day away from riding or while you sleep.