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Choosing first EUC


VicW
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I am looking for an entry level EUC & would like some help to choose one. I am a senior, weigh 200lbs (90kg), live in southern British Columbia where we have some nice weather but we do get rain. Some of the wheels I've looked at are, in no particular order, Segway One or Ninebot One, (seem to be the same unit), King Song 14D,  One other possibility is a used  Gotway ACM 1300wh. I know the Gotway ACM may be more than a beginner unit but the weight capacity is quite a bit more than the others. With the others if I wear a back pack with a few items in it I'm at the weight limit of the unit. Don't know how critical the carrying capacity is. One of the things I want is a walking handle as I like to & need to walk for exercise and I plan to combine walking & riding but when walking I don't want to have to carry the euc. I am aware that the Segway/Ninebot does not have a walking handle but I am sure I could rig one up. I'm also aware of the 12.5 mph speed of the Segway/Ninebot but as a newbie I don.t see that as a major issue. Any other suggestions that members of the forum may have would be appreciated. Thanks in advance......Vic.  

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@VicW Welcome to the forum! There are now also some other "choising first euc" topics going on, where you can get some ideas. Here are also many reviews/reports/discussions about quite all the unicycles.

Important points missing in your post is the range you expect to drive between charging. Also if this "range" us only on flat terrains or containing many steep inclines!

Imho also walking with an EUC regularly for longer distances could be quite cumbersome (especially depending on the terrain...)

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Kingsong 16S. Strong, safe, ergonomic, has the handle.

Same applies more or less to the Kingsong14D/14S (only difference is battery size and like 2km/h max speed difference). Pretty sure that would work out similarly to the 16S, but smaller, lighter, cheaper. Is it really officially recommended only til to 100kg?

Though, for offroad included (that's how I interpreted "walking & riding"), I'd recommend 16 inches over 14 any day. Also a bit more estable and forgiving (bumps) in general.

The ACM isn't a bad wheel at all (and amazing range at 1300Wh), but the opposite of carryable. You ride it, but when not you have a problem:efee8319ab:. While I have not tried its optional external handle, pretty sure the Kingsong style built-in handle is far superior for what you intend.

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Having two wheels, one with handle, one without.  I'd say handle wins, hands down.

add something on and your asking for it to snap off during a fall, or snag you during the fall.  Go for built in, and ergonomic.  I trolly my KS16s Into shops, and the bank, no problem.  I don't know how I Wheeled without it.  Carrying an EUC sucks, after about a minute.

recently I had a flat, about 500 yards from the car.  What a PITA  that was. Even a flat tire can be trollied (motor on, of course). 

Dont read top speed as cruising speed.  Top speed is "almost about to be thrown off" speed.  Allow for at least a 5kmh buffer space.  Hitting a bump or hole at top speed will soon be followed by something else hitting something hard.  Substitute "something else" with "your face" and "something hard" with "the road" .  I know, I've seen me do it.

 

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2 hours ago, Smoother said:

Dont read top speed as cruising speed.  Top speed is "almost about to be thrown off" speed.  Allow for at least a 5kmh buffer space.  Hitting a bump or hole at top speed will soon be followed by something else hitting something hard.  Substitute "something else" with "your face" and "something hard" with "the road" .  I know, I've seen me do it.

I wouldn't say that. The 35km/h limitation of the 16S seems to be exactly so there still is some buffer at those 35km/h, right? I thought that was the point why Kingsongs have their fixed top speeds.

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1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said:

I wouldn't say that. The 35km/h limitation of the 16S seems to be exactly so there still is some buffer at those 35km/h, right? I thought that was the point why Kingsongs have their fixed top speeds.

Every top speed is fixed isn't it?

Exceed it on a GotProblems, and it just cuts out (assuming the usual warning are removed or disabled, as HotWay riders seem to do).

exceed it on a KingPong and it tilts you back to the future- the future asphalt you indented to ride on your, wheel not your face.

All I know is, if everything isn't perfect at high speed, my 14c would violently eject me by extremely violent tilt back, which would shoot the wheel out in front, so fast, it was almost always bad news.  Didn't get too close to top speed after a few of those.  Once bitten twice shy, and all that.  Anyone who wants to cruise at 35kph on a 16s, I'd love  to know how it went.  Maybe it was my 340Wh battery, but even when full it didn't like high speed cruising.

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1 hour ago, Smoother said:

 Anyone who wants to cruise at 35kph on a 16s, I'd love  to know how it went. 

I've cruised at 32 kph with my tiltback set as 32 kph. It's just fine.

The reason most manufacturers set their tiltback very low for the first 100 miles/kilometers is so that their riders become very familiar with the tiltback sequence. If you insist on upping the tiltback before experiencing it, as I'm sure you did with your KS14c, then you cannot blame your wheel when it functions exactly as designed.

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The tiltback on KS-16S is well designed in my opinion. No sane person will accelerate fast at those speeds, so one won’t reach the top speed overly fast. I often ride the start of the tiltback at 34km/h. I usually don’t even notice the tiltback, even while surfing on it.

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2 hours ago, Smoother said:

is, if everything isn't perfect at high speed, my 14c would violently eject me by extremely violent tilt back, which would shoot the wheel out in front, so fast, it was almost always bad news.  Didn't get too close to top speed after a few of those.  Once bitten twice shy, and all that.  Anyone who wants to cruise at 35kph on a 16s, I'd love  to know how it went.  Maybe it was my 340Wh battery, but even when full it didn't like high speed cruising.

I guess you rely to much on your experience of older powerless wheels...

The 16S with its tiltback at 35kmh has a cutout speed at about 47-49kmh....so plenty room.

Sure, when you accelerate from 25 that crazy fast as if you want to reach 50kmh in 2 seconds...it might be violent at 35kmh...But who will do that?

But when your cruising around 32—36kmh you barely recognize the tiltback.

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A lot of people assuming that I'm referring to zooming up to top speed and then get surprised by violent tilt back. Nothing could be further from the truth. It is CRUISING, CRUISING near that speed that I'm talking about.  Does anybody need to go look up the meaning of cruising?  Every recent post I have made about this is about CRUISING fast not ACCELERATING fast.  I don't accelerate fast, because I know where that leads.  

And I'm not concerned about the CUT OUT SPEED.  I'm concerned about how rapidly the wheel races to cut out speed ONCE tilt back is triggered.  If you own a 16s try picking it up while monitoring the speed on the app.  I defy you to creep  up on 35kph and cruise near there.  Every time I try it, before I get near 35, it shoots to cutout (I.e. initiated violent tilt back).  Having no desire to experience that again (from my 14c days) I'm not willing to CREEP up on tilt back to find out, possibly, the hard way.  Notice, I said CREEP, not ZOOM.  Maybe the firmware is better now, but my tests picking it up, say violent tilt back is still there.  Of course free spinning in air is not a true test of the reaction when the tire is in contact with the floor. But that would not explain why I can't  hold it up, by hand, at a high, constant speed.  Lower speeds but higher speeds, no.

and no @LanghamP, you presume wrong about when and why I unlocked the speed.  I had plenty of experience with tilt back for all sorts of reasons; low battery, hill and low battery, over charged, etc.  In fact I waited so long, I didn't have to unlock it as I was a full 50k beyond the unlock distance. Why would you assume something like that and then practically state it as a know fact? I'm not happy with that.

people need to read what's written and not assume or presume anything.  Rant over.

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19 minutes ago, Smoother said:

better now, but my tests picking it up, say violent tilt back is still there.  Of course free spinning in air is not a true test of the reaction when the tire is in contact with the floor. But that would not explain why I can't  hold it up, by hand, at a high, constant speed.  Lower speeds but

I can only say that a freewheel spin test is not real life...absolutly nothing to fo with it!

Thats a normal behaviour on freespin as there is no counterweight and what a tiltbavk in reality/technically is, is that the wheel gets faster.

But as you are standing on the wheel, it has your counterweight and than nothing happens...

Why dont you test it on setting the tiltback at lets say 15kmh, if you are worried about doing it at 35kmh and not believing the people that report about mild tiltback?

On a freewheel spin at 15kmh you see the same as if the tiltbavk is on 35...rappidly pushing the wheel to cutout...

When driving/cruising it (without racing into it) you just have a nice mild tiltback.

Edited by KingSong69
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2 minutes ago, Smoother said:

 

and no @LanghamP, you presume wrong about when and why I unlocked the speed.  I had plenty of experience with tilt back for all sorts of reasons; low battery, hill and low battery, over charged, etc.  In fact I waited so long, I didn't have to unlock it as I was a full 50k beyond the unlock distance. Why would you assume something like that and then practically state it as a know fact? I'm not happy with that.

 

It is a correct assumption. You unlocked your tiltback speed before experiencing tiltback simply by riding your wheel a long distance, and so the adverse conditions upon which you experience tiltback are at far too high a speed to safely play with tiltback.

Tiltback is your friend and not your enemy. It's a way of your wheel thinking, "by gosh, it looks like we're going to crash so I might as well as give you one last-gasp chance to pull this out, because a small chance is better than no chance at all."

Wheels are merciless in their ability to kick you to the curb when you think something wrong, and by the way I'd expect every last one of you to call me out when I hold dear to a cherished false belief.

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I'm done with this. You obviously need to read more carefully.  Im not going to repeat myself. Assume what you want but we all know what assuming does.

and what exactly is a "correct assumption"? Something correct, is a fact, and an assumption is an unproven guess.  So you're actually saying your unproven guess is factual.  Unbelievable!

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16 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

I can only say that a freewheel spin test is not real life...

Thats a normal behaviour on freespin as there is no counterweight and what a tiltbavk in reality/technically is, is that the wheel gets faster.

But as you are standing on the wheel, it has your counterweight and than nothing happens...

Why dont you test it on setting the tiltback at lets say 15kmh?

On a freewheel spin you see the same as if the tiltbavk is on 35...rappidly pushing the wheel to cutout...

When driving it (without racing into it) you just have a nice mild tiltback.

I'll try that. 

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8 minutes ago, Smoother said:

I'll try that. 

Just one more statement:

When i received my 18S i was really shocked that it was nearly impossible to do a freewheel spin test, with having the wheel slowly accelerating...just when going over a certain tilt, it direclty speeded up that fast, that i thought it is crazy overreactive (even before the tiltback jumps in)...

But driving ON the wheel i then learned that this new driving algorithm WHILE driving is a totally different thing...totally smooth (but agile)!

i Even had to test a tiltback over 40kmh for a app developer that worked around the 1000km 50kmh limit...and learned on that way that there is no overreaction to fear and that the freespin behaviour is not comparable to the driving behaviour....

So perhaps you really should try that ....

Edited by KingSong69
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7 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Just one more statement:

When i received my 18S i was really shocked that it was nearly impossible to do a freewheel spin test, with having the wheel slowly accelerating...just when going over a certain tilt, it direclty speeded up that fast, that i thought it is crazy overreactive (even before the tiltback jumps in)...

But driving ON the wheel i then learned that this new driving algorithm WHILE driving is a totally different thing...totally smooth (but agile)!

i Even had to test a tiltback over 40kmh for a app developer that worked around the 1000km 50kmh limit...and learned on that way that there is no overreaction to fear and that the freespin behaviour is not comparable to the driving behaviour....

So perhaps you really should try that ....

I really want that to be true, because face sliding at 35k is no fun.  I'll go to the park tomorrow and set Ollie to a manageable speed, then creep it higher and higher until I'm comfortable with the reaction.

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6 minutes ago, Smoother said:

I really want that to be true, because face sliding at 35k is no fun.  I'll go to the park tomorrow and set Ollie to a manageable speed, then creep it higher and higher until I'm comfortable with the reaction.

I wub you, man, you bring a tear to my eye by changing your behavior when presented with facts.

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Just now, Smoother said:

I really want that to be true, because face sliding at 35k is no fun.  I'll go to the park tomorrow and set Ollie to a manageable speed, then creep it higher and higher until I'm comfortable with the reaction.

There was a guy about a year ago that told of riding his KS14C (might have been a B but pretty sure it was a C if I remember correctly) and got such a violent tiltback that his wife who was behind him said it looked like it pushed him straight up into the air like an ejector seat.  (he crashed of course)  Now it seems the newer Kingsongs with the new boards and algorithms, I never read of strong tiltback anymore.

Please test it at a lower speed and let us know.  Maybe on smooth grass or dirt trail.

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11 minutes ago, steve454 said:

There was a guy about a year ago that told of riding his KS14C (might have been a B but pretty sure it was a C if I remember correctly) and got such a violent tiltback that his wife who was behind him said it looked like it pushed him straight up into the air like an ejector seat.  (he crashed of course)  Now it seems the newer Kingsongs with the new boards and algorithms, I never read of strong tiltback anymore.

Please test it at a lower speed and let us know.  Maybe on smooth grass or dirt trail.

Well , except for the wife behind me, that has been my experience and it's really freaked me out.  You lose confidence, and slow way down, to avoid being spanked, completely out of the blue.  I've had at least two high speed cruising offs, and by high speed I mean about 15mph (24.3kph) I even remember questioning  @Marty Backe At the time at his ability to cruise on a 14c around 19 to 20 mph (31.5kph) when mine threw me off around 15 mph.  He couldn't explain it, but I believe his statement.  It must be down to battery size.  340Wh seems laughably small now, what with Wh getting bigger every year.  His was around 840Wh I believe.

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why tiltback? your alarm should go off several kph before you begin to tilt back so you should never experience it, assuming you don't turn tiltback off if you can.

anyone who rides along with the wheel beep beep beep-ing away under them deserves what they get. it's not beeping away, keeping time with the miles rolling by... it's not meant to let you know the wheel is still powered on either. it means slow down now... your at risk.

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Here we go again with assumptions.  Did anyone mention ignoring beeps? Do I have to explain what "completely out  of the blue" means?  

Did I say I was cruising along ignoring 3 beeps?

Seriously some people really need to brush up their comprehension skills.

 

Edited by Smoother
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