Chriull Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 9 hours ago, steve454 said: You can't cook a chicken at 79 degrees celsius, no matter how long you cook, it will never reach the safe internal temperature of 185 degrees fahrenheit. So the Gotway fans come on below the safe cooking temperature, 4 hours ago, Dingfelder said: It's 165 fahrenheit / 75 celsius for chicken. I have the fahrenheit printed on a magnet on my fridge, have seen it said to be 165 many times, and it's the first temp that came up when I googled it. For what it's worth, I usually cook chicken at 350, but have often cooked it at 250. It will reach 165 no problem at that temperature, and it's much more difficult to overcook it and make it dry that way. The minimal safe core temperature for food pasteurization is ~130°F (54°C). At this temperature (at the core) it takes about 2 hours to kill enough bacteria to consider it pasteurized. At 165°F this time is reduced to ~2 seconds... Personally I prefer chicken breast sous vide cooked for ~1 1/4 hour at 61°C. Sources: http://www.douglasbaldwin.com/sous-vide.html#Chicken_or_Turkey_Breast http://www.hi-tm.com/homeprep/Home-2006-2col-forpdf.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 I performed a temperature test today on my ACM 1600 to see if the firmware had been programmed to activate a sensor located on the mainboard. Activation if the sensor should then supply 12 v to a port located on the main board to power my cooling fan. The port is located in the upper right hand corner of the board. This port is commonly used as a power source for fans on other GW wheels including the Monster. I increased the temperature to over 55 degrees C and still no voltage was detected. My ACM did respond in an unfavorable fashion at that temperature simlar to a tilt back warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I performed a temperature test today on my ACM 1600 to see if the firmware had been programmed to activate a sensor located on the mainboard. Activation if the sensor should then supply 12 v to a port located on the main board to power my cooling fan. The port is located in the upper right hand corner of the board. This port is commonly used as a power source for fans on other GW wheels including the Monster. I increased the temperature to over 55 degrees C and still no voltage was detected. My ACM did respond in an unfavorable fashion at that temperature simlar to a tilt back warning. That was a nice experiment. Would have been interesting to see what the Gotway app temperature was. I can't say with authority what the 84v temperature tilt-back occurs at, but it's 79 degrees on the 67v wheels. Cool to see you make the wheel tilt-back without it moving. That's a first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 18 hours ago, Dingfelder said: It's 165 fahrenheit / 75 celsius for chicken. I have the fahrenheit printed on a magnet on my fridge, have seen it said to be 165 many times, and it's the first temp that came up when I googled it. For what it's worth, I usually cook chicken at 350, but have often cooked it at 250. It will reach 165 no problem at that temperature, and it's much more difficult to overcook it and make it dry that way. I was going by the recipe that @Rehab1 had put in his post. It said a higher temp than the fan turn on temp on the Gotway. It was a joke about the confusion about when the fans turn on. It's on the previous page, I tried to cut and paste it here but Doh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 according to my research http://www.fitbit.com/foods/All+Beef+Hot+Dog/81275 a hot dog has between 120 to 300 calories. http://www.kylesconverter.com/power/calories-per-second-to-watts also 100/s calories is about 418 Watt. So if you could feed our unicycle 60 hot dogs, it will have about 418 wh or power available. I will call this the "HOT-DOG-ARK-REACTOR" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 I substituted the XL60 connector for the XL90S. This spark arrestor version is awesome. The was zero arc when I connected the battery packs to the main board. I also soldered additional positive and negative leads to the XL 90S connector that will supply power to my cooling fan via a DC-DC Power Converter. This little unit drops the 84v from the packs down to 12V. I have had the fan running for a number of hours and the voltage had only dropped .1 V. I will keep evaluating the setup before connecting it permanently inside the wheel. I am also abandoning the temp data logger. I feel it may restrict airflow since it was positioned directly over the heat sink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 2 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I substituted the XL60 connector for the XL90S. This spark arrestor version is awesome. The was zero arc when I connected the battery packs to the main board. I also soldered additional positive and negative leads to the XL 90S connector that will supply power to my cooling fan via a DC-DC Power Converter. This little unit drops the 84v from the packs down to 12V. I have had the fan running for a number of hours and the voltage had only dropped .1 V. I will keep evaluating the setup before connecting it permanently inside the wheel. I am also abandoning the temp data logger. I feel it may restrict airflow since it was positioned directly over the heat sink. Why did you put such huge wires for the FAN Step down? It only uses a couple of milliamps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 12 minutes ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: Why did you put such huge wires for the FAN Step down? It only uses a couple of milliamps! The wires from the pack going to the step down are the same AWG wires exiting the step down. I prefer consistency just like the motor and main board wires, all 14 awg. The actual wires from the fan to the step down are 20 awg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: The wires from the pack going to the step down are the same AWG wires exiting the step down. I prefer consistency just like the motor and main board wires, all 14 awg. The actual wires from the fan to the step down are 20 awg. Warning. I am just making a joke. So I went hunting for bufalo and I used my hand dandy 50cal rifle. I worked great! The bufalo dropped instantly and we took home a great trophy! So i desided to be consistent, I will do the same squirrel hunting. I found a great spot. Found that squirrel one mile away. To a nice shot. Went to pick up my trophy. All I found was a million bits and pieces and hair. I must have vaporizes the squirrel but at least I was consistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 I had to give my ACM a 'haircut' so to speak. A ribbed section of plastic on the inside of the shell where my DC-DC power converter will be installed needed to be shaved down 4 mm so the ACM side cover would fit flush. Much of the shaving had already taken place before this final round of refinement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Has anyone actually used the usb port on their ACM? I am looking for a place to put my cooling fan on/off switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Rehab1 said: Has anyone actually used the usb port on their ACM? I am looking for a place to put my cooling fan on/off switch. So far, I've left mine in, but when we did my friend's wheel, we removed it. He put a switch there for his LED lights. That USB port is not very powerful anyways, so not a lot of use. You can barely see the switch in this photo. We enabled the LED light in the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 4 minutes ago, SuperSport said: So far, I've left mine in, but when we did my friend's wheel, we removed it. He put a switch there for his LED lights. That USB port is not very powerful anyways, so not a lot of use. Just what I wanted to hear! Thanks! How did he power his led lights? Great look BTW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 My phone has a shitty battery, and even if I don't use the port to charge it, taking the USB cable with me and having the possibility to charge should I need it is an big mental relief. Charged a few times too. You could also attach/charge/run other gadgets (lights?) via the port, so it's a great feature. You'll know if you might need it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Since you already "ruined" your side plates, might also have a small hole+switch right at the fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 16 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Just what I wanted to hear! Thanks! How did he power his led lights? He was going to use an inverter, but we ended up installing a separate Lithium Battery Pack and charge port for the battery. He also likes to get all the mileage out of his wheel, so didn't want to pull from the main battery. Not everyone cares about the distance, so not a bid deal for everyone. On MY wheel I run my EL Lights off the Motherboard USB port. I just tapped into the line. It DOES affect my mileage quite a bit when I run them. Maybe 5%-10% or better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 I never thought about charging a phone in the event I get stranded up on BrokeBacke Mountain! I need to give this some more thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I wanted to Keep my USB Port, so I opted to hide my switch under the trolley handle. I carry a battery pack in my jacket for the phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 I permanently attached my pedal magnets to the shell with copper rivets and replaced the ankle covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, Rehab1 said: I permanently attached my pedal magnets to the shell with copper rivets and replaced the ankle covers. Good Idea. I replaced the Hot Glue with Silicon and got a good result. Your's is permanent for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I received @Rehab1's board yesterday, and got to working on it this evening. I was afraid it might be coated, and of course it is: Not sure on the type of coating, I did do some small research on the weekend on removal, but there are multiple different types of coating and most require heat and/or strong solvents (which can eat away the plastic chip packages in addition to the coating), and typically also lots of mechanical abrasion (which will ruin the markings and make identification of chips next to impossible). Some components are easily identifiable just based on the chip package type and location (like the opto-isolator near the large transformer coil and the current sensors near the mosfets), while others are complete mystery. I tried taking pictures shining light from different directions, in the hopes that the reflections would show the markings better, but not much luck there. The mosfets are not coated (and I measured them, no short-circuits between their pins or to the heatsink, but that's not a surprise since the problem was with getting the board to power up anyway). I had already measured that the battery input's not in short circuit (like Rehab did himself earlier), so I could try powering up the board and try to take some measurements. My PSU gives 20V max output, so I had to use a separate step-up between it (the thing with blue board and big heatsink underneath). It should be 80V max, but the first time I tried that when I got it, the voltage shot close up to 100V when I was adjusting it unloaded (just with the multimeter connected to the output, which draws very little current due to ~10M ohm input impedance), so I put a 100k resistor on the output (in addition to the wires) to keep a small (<1mA) load on output. That seemed to help. Set it to 75V and started measuring around the board. Had to charge the input-caps through a resistor at first, because the inrush current would knock out the step-up otherwise when the PSU hit the current limit I had set at 500mA and didn't want to raise it in case I cause a short circuit myself So far, it seems the step-down is either dead, won't start without the power button or I couldn't find the correct pins. I then measured around more and found what is likely a PNP-transistor (SOT-89 package, marking "1013" which would seem to imply this 160V PNP-transistor: http://www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/2SA1013.pdf ). There was the around 75V input voltage at the base and the emitter, so at least it's conducting, but I need to measure it unpowered to see if the E->B -junction is in working condition. The collector had a very small voltage (<1V), so apparently it's not in conduction (was wondering if maybe the power on -button would cause the E->B current to raise high enough, and that would turn on the step-down). Also there are some resistors which appear to be in series after the base, but they're small and I couldn't read the values due to some white silicone-goo on top of them (and the coating). Powering down I inserted a smallish (couple of kilos or something) resistor on the battery connector to discharge the caps. In the background is my high-tech measuring probe for getting readings through the coating (yes, it's a wood block with a wire soldered to a sewing needle, banana-connector in the other end ). Scraping off the silicone is annoying and slow, so I thought I'd try if isopropanol alcohol would help and it does a bit, but the big thing is... the coating's totally soluble in IPA! That was unexpected, but good news in my case, this is going to make things sooo much easier. Toothbrush dipped into IPA and a piece of cloth is enough to remove most of the coating, at least on top of the chips and elsewhere where it's easy to get, the tight crevices are another matter... I'll try to figure out if I can find something to make it start up (with luck, it might even be just that PNP-transistor), but eventually I'll probably unscrew the board from the heatsink and dump the whole thing into a IPA-tank for a day or two That's about it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 42 minutes ago, esaj said: I received @Rehab1's board yesterday, and got to working on it this evening. Thank you for getting started on analyzing it so soon! 42 minutes ago, esaj said: Scraping off the silicone is annoying and slow, so I thought I'd try if isopropanol alcohol would help and it does a bit, but the big thing is... the coating's totally soluble in IPA! Sorry buddy! When I reassembled the components I may have gotten carried away with the silicone! Glad the alcohol is working! 42 minutes ago, esaj said: Powering down I inserted a smallish (couple of kilos or something) resistor on the battery connector to discharge the caps. Great idea! I used an led light on my battery connector yesterday for discharge. I just watched the intensity of the light diminish as the voltage dropped. Ah...there's my signature #3 on the connector! 42 minutes ago, esaj said: but eventually I'll probably unscrew the board from the heatsink and dump the whole thing into a IPA-tank for a day or two There you will find more silicone. Sorry buddy! Many thanks again for volunteering to perform my MB autopsy! You are definitely making progress! It will be educational to find out exacting what occurred after the power surge when I reconnected the packs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 46 minutes ago, esaj said: I received @Rehab1's board yesterday, and got to working on it this evening. I was afraid it might be coated, and of course it is: <snip> I love the enthusiasm and knowledge sharing in this group, and how small the planet is now (imagine doing a similar collaboration in 1920). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Thank you for getting started on analyzing it so soon! No problem, I do this stuff for fun... It might take a good while before I figure out things, depending on my free time, other projects and such. And it's always a possibility that I simply hit a wall at some point with my limited electronics understanding at this point 8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Sorry buddy! When I reassembled the components I may have gotten carried away with the silicone! Glad the alcohol is working! Yeah, it's not that bad, with the alcohol it seems to come off pretty cleanly and with fairly little hassle. I have a cheapo toolset like this, helps with soldering, component removal, scraping off all sorts of glues, pulling wires through holes etc: I've seen similar sets in Aliexpress/eBay etc, but even in a local nickel hardware store, the set was about 6.50€ (about $7.30). 8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Many thanks again for volunteering to perform my MB autopsy! You are definitely making progress! It will be educational to find out exacting what occurred after the power surge when I reconnected the packs! My current hunch is that when things were sparking, there might have been a large voltage spike that fried something that's directly connected to the batteries. We'll see once I can figure out things further. Btw, did you remove and put back that Bluetooth-adapter (the small blue board I've removed in the last picture)? If someone's having problems with the Bluetooth with these boards, I'd suggest checking that, the Dupont-style pinheaders are notorious for making bad contacts, and the female-pinheader on the board is actually moving back and forth a lot if you even touch it, like it's not properly connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, esaj said: Btw, did you remove and put back that Bluetooth-adapter (the small blue board I've removed in the last picture)? If someone's having problems with the Bluetooth with these boards, I'd suggest checking that, the Dupont-style pinheaders are notorious for making bad contacts, and the female-pinheader on the board is actually moving back and forth a lot if you even touch it, like it's not properly connected. I just caught your response before I was leaving. No sir I never removed that component. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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