SuperSport Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 2 minutes ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: That an amazing amount of power. Assuming a 4P battery pack that is 3240/67 = about 12 amps on each 1p or 48 amps. This is, of course, from an app connected to my wheel and not a meter, so I don't know how accurate it is. It's pulling info from the control board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 @meepmeepmayer if you ever get a chance, do you think you could post up some video of the hill that you were travelling on that created the wire melt down? I think it would be interesting to see from the bottom how steep the climb was. I wouldn't recommend repeating the climb on your new wheel though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 1 minute ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: @meepmeepmayer if you ever get a chance, do you think you could post up some video of the hill that you were travelling on that created the wire melt down? I think it would be interesting to see from the bottom how steep the climb was. I wouldn't recommend repeating the climb on your new wheel though... Come on @Hunka Hunka Burning Love! Why are you discouraging @meepmeepmayer? We need another data point and to validate our (mine anyway) assumption that his was a freak failure. I think he would prove my case even better if he accelerated up the entire hill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 There's an old saying "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice shame on me!" I wouldn't risk it considering the cost of these wheels without making sure the wiring is up to the task. If the new wheel has the separated wires that are thermally sleeved, maybe a short distance uphill ride while carefully monitoring on a logging app might be prudent to catch any unusually high readings. Meep's weight might not be similar to a roadrunner so we have to take that into consideration. I think seeing the actual hill will give everyone a better idea of what a Gotway killer can be given a certain rider weight. @Merrittous MonoWheel posted up some of his steep climbs on the Monster, but I think parts of the hill were too difficult in the end. Best to err on the safe side and check temperatures and current draws than be sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Marty is right. There's also that old saying "If you have sketchily designed electronics in a death trap below your feet propelling you at over 30 km/h, you better know what you can and shouldn't do with that thing!". Well, it isn't a saying, but maybe in the future it will be And I'm the "Buuuuut I need to know!" type anyways (and would like to use the wheel for mountain rides, that was the original plan), so for peace of mind I'll have to do something eventually. My plan is to go to that hill sooner or later (when I have the courage) and ride up for 30 seconds or 1 minute (it was 5+ minutes when the "bad" cables melted so this should be ok) and look at what current it produces. I think current is the number to watch out for (instead of incline) because it already takes into account rider weight etc. But I'll measure the incline too (as good as possible with smartphone apps). And I can try a video, but usually it's very hard to see incline in videos and photos. Sooner or later... If you have any (safe!) experiments to add while there, can do that. I'll be gone over the weekend and then... let's see. So don't expect anything soon. I already promised incline measurements in the other thread, but with the current knowledge (current is a noun and adjective here - puntastic!) and 20A max number, now I finally have something expedient to do instead of just reliving the heart broken feeling of a dead wheel and aching hands. Didn't want to do that with the shiny new ACM. So, one day it might happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 I am having powering up issues on the ACM. Everything is reconnected along with the battery packs. I have 81.5 v at the circuit board and capacitors. The batteries need a slight recharging but 3v should not affect power up. I cannot remember if the power switch is momentary. You will see on the video when the switch is depressed the meter shows continuity but when released the continuity ends. Any ideas! Also there is 81.5 v at the main board terminal where the switch leads plugs into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 53 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: I am having powering up issues on the ACM. Everything is reconnected along with the battery packs. I have 81.5 v at the circuit board and capacitors. The batteries need a slight recharging but 3v should not affect power up. I cannot remember if the power switch is momentary. You will see on the video when the switch is depressed the meter shows continuity but when released the continuity ends. Any ideas! Also there is 81.5 v at the main board terminal where the switch leads plugs into. It is a momentary switch. It needs to be held for a couple seconds and it activates. Looks like you've done that though. Maybe verify wires are plugged into board correctly. The headlight should have flickered when you pressed the switch too, but it didn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Can you shoot a clear photo of where the wires are plugged in and I'll compare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 In this image, the Power Switch is plugged into the very bottom slot near the bluetooth module. Is that where you have it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 54 minutes ago, SuperSport said: In this image, the Power Switch is plugged into the very bottom slot near the bluetooth module. Is that where you have it? Yes the power connector is plugged in the same location. When I initially disassembled the ACM all of the wiring was documented both in diagrams and color coding the receptical and plugs. I may have blown the main board when I had that electrical explosion. I have another board coming that was ordered last month. At that time I was not aware Jason carried the new boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Well Dang! That temp gauge is self powered, correct, and not tapped into the system? I have found that pulling too much power from the headlight or USB circuits will cause the wheel to not run correctly. From what I can tell from your photo, your wires appear to be plugged in correctly. PS: Nice clean wiring job by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 When you hold the button to turn on the wheel it will beep once (even if you continue to hold the button). It normally does not beep for the duration that you are holding the button. So that's not normal behavior. I can't find it right now, but there is a posting from @Jane Mo (I think) which lists the meanings of all the beeps. It may identify the meaning of a continuous tone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 1 minute ago, Marty Backe said: When you hold the button to turn on the wheel it will beep once (even if you continue to hold the button). It normally does not beep for the duration that you are holding the button. So that's not normal behavior. I can't find it right now, but there is a posting from @Jane Mo (I think) which lists the meanings of all the beeps. It may identify the meaning of a continuous tone? No beeps! It is completely dead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slaughthammer Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Did you try to switch it on when it's standing upright? Maybe it won't power on when lying on the site... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: No beeps! It is completely dead! The odds are that there is no problem with the control board since it's detecting the button press. My guess is that there's another connector issue. Trouble-shooting 101 time. First disconnect any other wiring additions that you've made (fans, etc.). Any changes. Disconnect the motor wires. If I remember correctly when seeing @swvision's MSuper failure where the motor cable disconnected, the wheel did not balance but it turned on. So if there's a problem with your new motor, disconnect the motor and see if the wheel turns on. Maybe the motor has a problem and the control is detecting that when you attempt to turn it on. I doubt you can cause any harm by disconnecting cables one-by-one and seeing when the wheel turns on (single beep). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 4 minutes ago, Slaughthammer said: Did you try to switch it on when it's standing upright? Maybe it won't power on when lying on the site... No, the wheel will turn on properly when laying on it's side. The wheel just won't attempt to balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 11 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: The odds are that there is no problem with the control board since it's detecting the button press. My guess is that there's another connector issue. No the control board is not detecting the press of the button. I just performed a continuity test on the button with it detached from the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 13 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: No the control board is not detecting the press of the button. I just performed a continuity test on the button with it detached from the board. Oh, I totally missed that in the video (without a side-by-side comparison it sounded like the tone that comes from the wheel). I've got noth'in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I am having powering up issues on the ACM. Everything is reconnected along with the battery packs. I have 81.5 v at the circuit board and capacitors. The batteries need a slight recharging but 3v should not affect power up. I cannot remember if the power switch is momentary. You will see on the video when the switch is depressed the meter shows continuity but when released the continuity ends. Any ideas! I'd love to help, but without knowledge how the Gotway-boards work, it's pretty difficult to start pinpointing the exact problem. If the board itself has fried some components, finding and replacing them might become quite a task (or not, depending if/what is gone), and even if it then worked, you'd still be riding a sort of a jury-rigged board 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: Also there is 81.5 v at the main board terminal where the switch leads plugs into. I wonder if there should be the full battery voltage it's connecting to ground? If it even is connecting it to ground, might be something else too. For a momentary-switch, I'd expect to see something like 3.3V (the MCU voltage) on the other pin and likely it being pulled up internally by the CPU, so the CPU would be always powered when the batteries are connected and wake up the wheel when the pin is drawn low... But yeah, it's all guesswork without knowing the circuitry, it could work completely differently and it's difficult/impossible to gather that info just from pictures, since the boards likely have multiple layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 The beeps in the video are NOT the wheel, but your measuring apparatus? Sounds exactly the same. You can hear 2 beeps though, the short one at the start and then the continuous one blends into it. In that case, can't offer much here besides my sympathy You sure learn a lot about what can go wrong with your ACM With my shorted motor wires, the wheel would still turn on regularly (beep, attempting to balance, lights work,...) and just give 3 beeps and the LEDs flashed red. So either the button does not start the wheel/something is connected the wrong way; or your board may really be fried You ordered a new board in advance? Why? Precognition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 10 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said: You ordered a new board in advance? Why? Precognition Yes. After that electrical incident I had a feeling I may need a new board. I decided to try a different route. No success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 LOL If everything else is lost, there's still humor Still hoping you just have some bad/missing/wrong connection somewhere. The board does get power from the batteries so it can power on? (stupid question, but it's a start) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 34 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said: LOL If everything else is lost, there's still humor Still hoping you just have some bad/missing/wrong connection somewhere. The board does get power from the batteries so it can power on? (stupid question, but it's a start) Here is a short video depicting power at the on/off switch pin site. Why is there full voltage at this pin site? What exactly does the switch do when it encounters 84 volts (83.5v)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 15 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: What exactly does the switch do when it encounters 84 volts (83.5v)? You could attach the switch to your measuring device and see if you can find out something. Maybe the switch just closes the electrical connection so the voltage is always there, but if the board detects a current flow it knows the button is being pressed. Random guessing... edit: this got lost a little, looks like the switch is ok and you should check all the other stuff, especially mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 44 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said: t: this got lost a little, looks like the switch is ok and you should check all the other stuff, especially mods. All of the connections are in the proper order. I am sure with the degree of electrical flash back I experienced that was severe enough to burn my hand most likely shorted out some of the MB components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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