S22 tips, mods, suspension settings, tire pressure, etc. Share your experiences!

[Tawpie]

3 hours ago, blackdablack said:

I thought that because I was going up in size I'd require a new tube no? 

Correct. The answer is that you do not need a different tube... but I'd source a spare or two anyway. Nothing like pinching your tube during the replacement process. Just be certain your replacement's valve stem looks like the original (bent), else the valve stem might stick out too far. I got my spare from RevRides in Portland OR and am pretty sure they'll ship to CA.

[vikingto]

16 hours ago, blackdablack said:

Anyone know where to get a tube for a 90/90 ? I have the Pirelli Angel but can't find a tube anywhere 

Why not go tubeless on it? I was nervous to go tubeless, but after researching a bit it turns out there's a lot of advantages, fewer flats, better connection with the road/trail, and running at a lower psi being a few. Like @fbhb said earlier in this topic (page 1), the rim is set up for it. And it looks like it isn't too big of a process, so I'll be running the City Grip Pro tubeless very soon here. I'll report then.

[daniel1234]

Any tips for delrin rollers what would fit inside s22 slider ? 

I am thinking about making sliders out of cheap china mgn9 linear rail. But there must be better way.

[mrelwood]

 

15 hours ago, vikingto said:

Like @fbhb said earlier in this topic (page 1), the rim is set up for it.

Depending on what you mean by being "set up for it". You still have to drill the valve hole larger, and route a level spot for the tubeless valve assembly and nuts.

And I don't expect for the inside wall of the rim to be equipped for a proper tubeless fitting, which means that if the tire moves a bit too much, especially with the mentioned lower tire pressures, the air can escape in a hurry. No air, no steering or balancing (left to right).

Getting an EUC tire to initially seal as a tubeless system can be a real pita.  You night need a high pressure compressor to do it.

I ran my MSX tubeless for a while. A large amount of work with practically zero gain. Never again.

[vikingto]

8 hours ago, mrelwood said:

 

Depending on what you mean by being "set up for it". You still have to drill the valve hole larger, and route a level spot for the tubeless valve assembly and nuts.

And I don't expect for the inside wall of the rim to be equipped for a proper tubeless fitting, which means that if the tire moves a bit too much, especially with the mentioned lower tire pressures, the air can escape in a hurry. No air, no steering or balancing (left to right).

Getting an EUC tire to initially seal as a tubeless system can be a real pita.  You night need a high pressure compressor to do it.

I ran my MSX tubeless for a while. A large amount of work with practically zero gain. Never again.

Well then, I'll stick with the tube. @mrelwoodspeaks, I listen. Your battery charging video is one of the must watch videos for any EUC rider btw.

But yeah most of the videos speaking of the benefits were from a cyclist perspective, not EUC. So thanks for chiming in aye.

Edited August 12, 2022 by vikingto

[UniVehje]

Loosening these screws (marked in red) so that the bars have a bit if movement made all the difference for me. Went from stuck to smooth. Biggest upgrade on the suspension. 
 

[UniVehje]

I went with the good old C-1488 tire. Feels good, man. Nimble yet stable. Made the wheel come alive. 

[mrelwood]

2 hours ago, UniVehje said:

I went with the good old C-1488 tire. Feels good, man. Nimble yet stable. Made the wheel come alive. 

I guess the diameter is also smaller enough to make the acceleration and braking more peppy?

Nice to hear that you got the suspension working well so easily!

[UniVehje]

6 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I guess the diameter is also smaller enough to make the acceleration and braking more peppy?

Yes, a bit. I consider this a positive thing for this wheel. It does feel peppy enough. Not even using pads. I just use softest mode and it works nicely. 

On the photo the middle one is K66 80/80. Oddly seems like a smaller diameter but it’s wider than the 1488. 

[vikingto]

8 hours ago, UniVehje said:

Yes, a bit. I consider this a positive thing for this wheel. It does feel peppy enough. Not even using pads. I just use softest mode and it works nicely. 

On the photo the middle one is K66 80/80. Oddly seems like a smaller diameter but it’s wider than the 1488. 

I really like that 1488 on my 18XL, such a great all around tire. Really fun on pavement and admirable on trails too. I was going to run that City Grip Pro here in a bit, but feel like I'd give up some trail climbing ability vs the stock knobby tire. The good ol 1488 never let me down, think I'll order one up.

[Lilvodka]

My experience so far.  

From stand still to jumping on moving slowly, some plasticky noises - does something need tightening maybe?  Then it gets going and absorbs everything.  Confidence is a another level to all the wheels I’ve had.

Bought some dry lube for sliders.

Finding pedals too wide, catching everything on narrow trails.

Lost one of the protective rubber things on the back.

Torque and speed excellent, coming from Sherman the s22 seems to go up inclines far easier.  Then going down, a lot easier to maintain slow speed/brake.

[wstuart]

On 8/12/2022 at 2:02 PM, UniVehje said:

Loosening these screws (marked in red) so that the bars have a bit if movement made all the difference for me. Went from stuck to smooth. Biggest upgrade on the suspension. 
 

Interesting!!

  Are you concerned that they'll back out?  Did you use threadlock?

15 hours ago, Topkek said:

My experience so far.  

From stand still to jumping on moving slowly, some plasticky noises - does something need tightening maybe?  Then it gets going and absorbs everything.  Confidence is a another level to all the wheels I’ve had.

Bought some dry lube for sliders.

Finding pedals too wide, catching everything on narrow trails.

Lost one of the protective rubber things on the back.

Torque and speed excellent, coming from Sherman the s22 seems to go up inclines far easier.  Then going down, a lot easier to maintain slow speed/brake.

Please let us know how it goes with the dry lube.  I was planning on doing the same thing

[Tawpie]

4 hours ago, wstuart said:

Are you concerned that they'll back out?  Did you use threadlock?

The side with the screw head is contained by the battery case, so they won't come completely out... but if they do back out they'll end up scraping the battery case. So I think thread lock is definitely in order.

What I find most encouraging about this discovery is that it points to "high tolerance alignment" as being a factor in how much stichshun you experience. Loosening everything adds enough slop that seems to be enough to stop the binding due to forces introduced when the system is carrying its payload. In @supercurio video of the roller sliders, the roller guy mentioned "but there are other forces"… he's definitely onto something significant.

This is a solvable problem. And it shouldn't be expensive.

I would think that if you 'floated' the plastic sliders by making them fit the rails more loosely and secured them with a bushing (so they float at the attachment point), you might be able to give things enough room to keep it from binding. Or a tiny change to the shape of the plastic pieces. Right now, the countersunk screw holes are forcing a fixed position… which seems to be causing the binding.

Near as I can tell this portion of the suspension is a guide only, not load bearing. That simplifies some of the constraints.

When mine arrives, I'm also going to look at how the battery cases are fixed to see if there's any adjustment room there. Perhaps one just need to loosen the the battery cases a bit, get everything lined up where it's happy, then tighten the battery cases down.

Edited August 14, 2022 by Tawpie

[Rawnei]

I think it's more a matter of getting the rails aligned, when you screw in the screws you noticed that they have some wiggle room, so just screwing them in blindly can make them not perfectly aligned, one method is to not screw them in fully so you have that wiggle room, install the motor in the channels so they become aligned, then pull motor out screw by screw and tighten them, this method worked for me making the rails aligned and much better operating.

[wstuart]

2 hours ago, Tawpie said:

The side with the screw head is contained by the battery case, so they won't come completely out... but if they do back out they'll end up scraping the battery case. So I think thread lock is definitely in order.

What I find most encouraging about this discovery is that it points to "high tolerance alignment" as being a factor in how much stichshun you experience. Loosening everything adds enough slop that seems to be enough to stop the binding due to forces introduced when the system is carrying its payload. In @supercurio video of the roller sliders, the roller guy mentioned "but there are other forces"… he's definitely onto something significant.

 

Yeah I think I watched that same video.  I think I remeber that guy also mentioning that when the S22 suspension is fully compressed there are some twisting forces going on that cause the sliders to bind against the guides.  If that's true, it would make alot of sense that running the rails loose would give the necessary play to make it so the twisting geometry of the system doesn't cause the sliders to bind.

Would you guys use red or blue threadlock?  I know red requires head to undo, which could be a problem near plastic.

[UniVehje]

7 hours ago, wstuart said:

Are you concerned that they'll back out?  Did you use threadlock?

I didn't use threadlock this time but I will open it soon again and instal some covers. I'll check if they've opened more then. I'm not too concerned as they cannot open too much in there. Worst case is some light scraping agains the rails. 

[Rawnei]

25 minutes ago, wstuart said:

Would you guys use red or blue threadlock?  I know red requires head to undo, which could be a problem near plastic.

Always blue, no point using red.

[Fonzerra]

Here are my favorite settings for the KS-S22

I'm a little shit  at "only" 168cm (5'6) and 85kg (187lbs) with full gear:

Driving mode: Medium

Tire pressure: 30 psi

Suspension:

"Compression": 4 clicks from full soft to hard

"Rebound": 6 clicks from full fast to slow

In addition, I have put black electrical tape on the lights between each LED, that way they do not dazzle when they are tilted all the way forward.

[vikingto]

On 8/15/2022 at 5:17 AM, Fonzerra said:

Here are my favorite settings for the KS-S22

I'm a little shit  at "only" 168cm (5'6) and 85kg (187lbs) with full gear:

Driving mode: Medium

Tire pressure: 30 psi

Suspension:

"Compression": 4 clicks from full soft to hard

"Rebound": 6 clicks from full fast to slow

In addition, I have put black electrical tape on the lights between each LED, that way they do not dazzle when they are tilted all the way forward.

I like that tape job. I'm constantly turning my lights off when around people, and have been accused of trying to burn people's retinas before lol, "whoops sorry!"

[vikingto]

So I haven't had any issues with my sliders binding up yet, everything's running smoothly. Not sure if it's because I'm a heavier rider at 220lbs or what. But either way I'll definitely realign them using @Rawnei and @UniVehje's recommendations.

Put on some soft grippy handlebar tape on the bumper the other week, then shimmed the pedals with some leftover sheetrock corner bead and some double-sided gorilla tape. We'll see how it stays, but just that little bit of angle really made the ride more comfy.

 

[Tawpie]

On 8/14/2022 at 11:40 AM, wstuart said:

which could be a problem near plastic.

Unless you use the special locktite that's specifically labeled for use near plastic, do not use it anywhere near plastic. The vapors are enough to turn plastic to goo.

Red is "permanent", Blue is "removable". With sufficient heat, red can be broken but it takes a lot of heat.

[vikingto]

Handle bar tape.

The adjustable seat from EUCPiPs Etsy shop is super comfy to sit on. And funny shit is that people have said "I didn't know JBL made electric vehicles?"

[fbhb]

This was posted on the Russian Telegram today, announcing that the very, very high quality Hextech spiked pedals will soon be available for the S22!

In the finishing stages and sized at 276x135mm

The link to the EUC Market online store does not show them as in stock at this point, but will be the place to keep an eye out for anyone wishing to purchase from Russia:

EUC Market - unicycle tuning

Edited August 27, 2022 by fbhb

[fbhb]

Russian developed (by Zep, I believe) "Roller suspension" mod in action:

 

Edited August 30, 2022 by fbhb

[litewave]

20 minutes ago, fbhb said:

Russian developed (by Zep, I believe) "Roller suspension" mod in action:

 

Not sure what improvement Kingsong is up to (as rumored recently in this thread), but I hope they are paying close attention. If they don't buy/license this technology, I sure hope it can be legally manufactured and sold to the rest of the world despite sanctions. 

 

Edited August 30, 2022 by litewave