V11 longevity

[MegaObi]

Just wondering if anyone take these wheels over 3000km?

[Denny Paul]

A friend who’s is at 5k km now, but he’s had his fair share of trouble. A board that needed replacing and bearings that seized. He has an early batch 3 or late batch 2, hard to say definitively.

For me, my v11 is at 1k now. Trouble free so far. Late batch 3. (Sent by eWheels in early January). I don’t ride it in wet, as per ewheels advice.

Edited May 17, 2021 by Denny Paul

[gon2fast]

On 5/17/2021 at 4:00 PM, Denny Paul said:

I don’t ride it in wet, as per ewheels advice.

Well they did not share that with me LOL. 

Refocus - my V11, batch 1.5 with the mystery motor, has seen rain, mud, sprinkler blasts, etc and is trouble free at 1500 miles.

 

[Meserias]

we have here in Romania an well known guy that it's making entire country tour.
that will be almost 3000km on his V11

he left from Bucharest 22 days ago and it's charging his V11 wheel every single day (!!!) and ride it until battery depletion or too late in the day.

IMHO, if this is not a stress test ....I don't know what to say

https://euc.world/tour/598296917578158 see his progress here

 

Edited May 20, 2021 by Meserias
corrections

[Ádám Szitás]

Not less than any other wheel, 6300kms here without any significant issue.

[MegaObi]

amazing thanks for all the feedback. i purchased my v11 last week already hit 200km+

[Trampoline_matt]

I just passed 3,000 miles, and am super happy. 

[Roadpower]

I'm going to be tempted to order one of these later this year I suspect. Either this one or the KS-S18 because the S18 is lighter. Otherwise I imagine the V11 is the better product simply because of design details and Immotion being the most competent manufacturer.

[mrelwood]

14 hours ago, Roadpower said:

because the S18 is lighter.

Remember that the 22kg for the S18 was for pre-production version only. The current production version weighs 25kg. V11 is 27kg. The difference is too small to affect anything.

 I’m at 4650km on batch 1b V11. I did replace noisy bearings a while ago, and there were a few other calls for warranty at the very beginning, but since then, works splendidly enough for other wheels to have stopped existing for me.

[Unventor]

My early 1st batch with Z bearing is technically still running beside a battery pack. I got a new battery pack but when changing to winter tier and flipping this 180 degrees as I first mounted this with wrong rotation, I managed to crack 2 connectors on the drive board. I have a very early BT module that only made it to a few units before it was changed to a new version. BT works but slightly unstable. 

While people have reported bearing problems, I have not seen this yet. And I can say I have driving this V11 in conditions I never ridden before. I ride short distances in general So I have around 1500km on this now. I just bought a 2nd  V11 that has 200+km while I wait to get part to fully upgrade/change control and drive boards.

Now I expected some problems as being early bird on this very different design of an EUC and getting one of the few limited orange rubber pedals wheels. But that I got a 2nd V11 sort of speaks for itself I think. Suspension is the way to go imo. But I have bad knees, so others might have a different opinion. 

Now it seems @mrelwoodwas the daredevil that spotted a tire upgrade that suits the V11 very well. I do hope he release a YT review. I asked a reseller to get this for me, So I will share this at some point. The tire is  Heidenau K66 80/80-14 Snowtex. 

 

[Roadpower]

36 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

Remember that the 22kg for the S18 was for pre-production version only. The current production version weighs 25kg. V11 is 27kg. The difference is too small to affect anything.

Oh, thanks for pointing that out. Now I'm a bit miffed that both EUCO and eWheels have failed to update their data sheet.

[mrelwood]

2 hours ago, Roadpower said:

Oh, thanks for pointing that out. Now I'm a bit miffed that both EUCO and eWheels have failed to update their data sheet.

I don’t think any seller has updated the info. It is after all an important selling point for the S18. 
 

Edit: Ecodrift has correct info (25.3kg), unsurprisingly. You might want to explore the site with a translator though...

https://ecodrift.ru/product/monokoleso-kingsong-s18/

Edited June 3, 2021 by mrelwood

[Unventor]

3 hours ago, Roadpower said:

Oh, thanks for pointing that out. Now I'm a bit miffed that both EUCO and eWheels have failed to update their data sheet.

Being slightly off topic but I will try to swing back. Don't judge me if I fail I didn't promise to succed. 

Most wheels when launched these days had a design vision and a preproduction version. Those are what is used as base for selling. Both specifications and looks for pictures. And it happens in many other business too. 

Not many update these initial infomations. Mostly as it cose money to do and time and in the end it matters less, because somewhere there is a disclaimer for subject to change or miss print of information. 

There has been many changes to the V11. Right now we asume it has Samsung cells. Some do but initially tvey were supposed to be LG. Pedals colour changes too but paintjob and deco rubber patch. 

Does it matter much? Not really, but my 2nd V11 (april 2021 production) is nicer looking than my 1st batch V11 imo. But it really doesn't change the overall ride or function. 

So @MegaObi do you like your V11 so far/still? 

[phatmike]

On 6/3/2021 at 9:04 PM, Unventor said:

My early 1st batch with Z bearing is technically still running beside a battery pack. I got a new battery pack but when changing to winter tier and flipping this 180 degrees as I first mounted this with wrong rotation, I managed to crack 2 connectors on the drive board. I have a very early BT module that only made it to a few units before it was changed to a new version. BT works but slightly unstable. 

While people have reported bearing problems, I have not seen this yet. And I can say I have driving this V11 in conditions I never ridden before. I ride short distances in general So I have around 1500km on this now. I just bought a 2nd  V11 that has 200+km while I wait to get part to fully upgrade/change control and drive boards.

Now I expected some problems as being early bird on this very different design of an EUC and getting one of the few limited orange rubber pedals wheels. But that I got a 2nd V11 sort of speaks for itself I think. Suspension is the way to go imo. But I have bad knees, so others might have a different opinion. 

Now it seems @mrelwoodwas the daredevil that spotted a tire upgrade that suits the V11 very well. I do hope he release a YT review. I asked a reseller to get this for me, So I will share this at some point. The tire is  Heidenau K66 80/80-14 Snowtex. 

 

I’ve the same tire on my EX N but 80/90 14 size. I really like it

[Tryptych]

2200km, just changed my motor due to bad bearings (which began at 600km).

While changing motor I noticed most of the screws that attach the shell have cracked the plastic.  Granted some of these screws could be blamed on me tightening them too much, but not all. It's undeniable that the shell plastic is extremely brittle, you'll see what I mean if you ever change a tire or motor.

Thankfully these screws do not support any of my weight, that all goes directly to the wheel. These screws just connect the case to the wheel so the cracks are not a show stopper, although very concerning. As far as I am concerned this is the #1 problem with the V11's durability. These screw sockets should have been lined with metal.

 

I am partially posting this as a warning to others: Do not tighten the screws which go into plastic.

 

Edited June 7, 2021 by Tryptych

[Heyzeus]

35 minutes ago, Tryptych said:

... story of corners cut

It's so frustrating(whether it's gotway, king song or, inmotion), seeing time and time again, things cracking, failing,  breaking etc., Not because of crashes or poor customer care but due to these companies literally skimping on such minor things like reinforced screw posts.

 

It's not like using metal reinforced screw posts / sockets, better bearings, wiring etc is going to be the difference between hitting $2,100 and being $2,500. 

 

They are literally pinching pennies, and harming their reputation over it.  I know all companies do it to some degree but sometimes the s*** I see with these wheels just boggles the mind. I know Inmotion is currently the closest to it but I hope someday we get a real honda or Toyota equivalent in the EUC space.

 

Again it's just frustrating because it could be so much better for literally a small amount more in cost

[Brendan "nog3" Halliday]

10 hours ago, Tryptych said:

you'll see what I mean if you ever change a tire or motor

I do this regularly in servicing EUCs and have yet to see a single one cracked like you've posted above even on the most mistreated v11's I've worked on. Are those two bolt holes the only ones that have cracked? You mention 'all of them' have broken but the m3 and m4 bolts that also screw into the motor axle block don't appear to show the same damage.

Have you at any stage added any threadlocker to these bolts for the holes that have cracked?

[Tryptych]

7 hours ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

I do this regularly in servicing EUCs and have yet to see a single one cracked like you've posted above even on the most mistreated v11's I've worked on. Are those two bolt holes the only ones that have cracked? You mention 'all of them' have broken but the m3 and m4 bolts that also screw into the motor axle block don't appear to show the same damage.

Have you at any stage added any threadlocker to these bolts for the holes that have cracked?

I've heard from others who had this issue in Telegram chat as well, I know it is not that uncommon. 

The photo I included (which I've updated with a better version) was when the wheel was first opened up, by the time the repairs were completed a few days later much more cracks were found/created (several were caused when the screws were tightened, even when being very gentle - the plastic was essentially falling apart from any touch). Most of those screws had threadlocker on bottom of them, from the factory.  I have a new shell coming under warranty.

I repeat my warning: similar to the plastic on the saddle that many people had issues with - the plastic on this shell is extremely brittle and should have been lined with metal sockets. Beware if you have to remove/replace any screws going into plastic; do not tighten them very much.

Edited June 7, 2021 by Tryptych

[Roadpower]

Not to be contrarian but using threaded brass inserts won't necessarily save you from over tightening screws. Threaded brass inserts are for where you need a precision fit and or more mechanical strengthening. A case cover depending on how it is being used by the manufacturer doesn't by default require a precision fit. Also the threaded inserts would not be used on the shell itself. You would still only have through holes. The threaded inserts can give a means for the screw bottoming out which would stop you from crushing the shell but not over tightening the screw which would mean sheering the screw off if you did so.

When it comes to self tapping screws into plastic I always gently reverse twist the screw until I feel the seating happen and then proceed to screw it in while being careful to limit the torque so stripping of the hole doesn't occur. This is why I don't use cordless screw drivers on such things.

[mrelwood]

9 hours ago, Roadpower said:

using threaded brass inserts

The suggestion wasn’t about threaded inserts, all the mentioned bolts already go into machine threads in metal. But the threads are very fine which itself makes overtightening way too easy.

 What was suggested was inserts in the through holes that the bolts are there to hold in place. And I have to agree, it would be a good solution. The tightening characteristics of the fine machine threads do not go hand in hand with the strength of the plastic that the bolts are holding in place with   tiny heads.

[Roadpower]

22 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The suggestion wasn’t about threaded inserts, all the mentioned bolts already go into machine threads in metal. But the threads are very fine which itself makes overtightening way too easy.

 What was suggested was inserts in the through holes that the bolts are there to hold in place. And I have to agree, it would be a good solution. The tightening characteristics of the fine machine threads do not go hand in hand with the strength of the plastic that the bolts are holding in place with   tiny heads.

Ahh, I see. You two are talking about sleeves.

[Tryptych]

Did you guys have threadlock on all your screws going into the shell, or was it just me?  I suspect this the main cause of the brittle plastic on my shell.  Did the factory screw up or was this 'plastic friendly' threadlock?