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Kingsong S20/S22 (Confirmed)


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On 5/8/2022 at 11:30 PM, techyiam said:

The official Kingsong Disassembly Video for the S22 confirms the quick tire removal procedure. In my books, this is a big win for Kingsong. They don't seem to be using permanent thread locking compound on the fasteners now. It does look like it will be much easier and less messy to patch or change a tire on the S22 than on my T3, or V12.

In Kingsong Reassembly Video for the S22, they were actually using Blue Loctite 242. If that is the case, I would probably just remove the spider-brackets from the hollow axle. This would make taking off the tire from the rim a lot easier. 

Seeing the wheel come out easy was nice.  They obviously disassembled beyond need for tire replacement.  For tire replace:

1. Remove cable from controller 

2. Remove 3 bolts from suspension bottom (x2 sides)

3. Slide out wheel & motor (batteries can stay put)

4. remove fender (its a POS.  1st time I do I will replace it with home fabricated wire-guide and no fender)

5. change tire

6. fabricat wireguide for a fender replacement

7. re-install

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3 hours ago, Elliott Reitz said:

Seeing the wheel come out easy was nice.  They obviously disassembled beyond need for tire replacement.  For tire replace:

1. Remove cable from controller 

2. Remove 3 bolts from suspension bottom (x2 sides)

3. Slide out wheel & motor (batteries can stay put)

4. remove fender (its a POS.  1st time I do I will replace it with home fabricated wire-guide and no fender)

5. change tire

6. fabricat wireguide for a fender replacement

7. re-install

If it were me, I would replace Step 4 with: removing the 4 axle bolts on each side to remove the spider bracket and fender assembly as one unit. This will greatly facilitate the unmounting or mounting of the tire. This does not take into account of your Step-6 Mod though.

Edited by techyiam
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Aren't the rubber stoppers already shaped to force dirt out of the sliding groove?

Razbiraem-monokoleso-Kingsong-S20-81.thumb.jpg.780e73b90104507e87993c3ac085ab1e.jpg

I just think that a dirty rubber stopper has perhaps too much friction and would rather fix them on the top position for their second purpose, stop the slider to prevent bottoming out hard. Then replace the rubber stopper on the slider with a short part shaped like you proposed. Perhaps we could add some felt with graphite or PTFE lube to keep things lubricated while not attracting dust and sand.

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17 minutes ago, btl said:

Aren't the rubber stoppers already shaped to force dirt out of the sliding groove?

I just think that a dirty rubber stopper has perhaps too much friction and would rather fix them on the top position for their second purpose, stop the slider to prevent bottoming out hard. Then replace the rubber stopper on the slider with a short part shaped like you proposed. Perhaps we could add some felt with graphite or PTFE lube to keep things lubricated while not attracting dust and sand.

That's exactly what ecodrift did with good results: https://ecodrift-ru.translate.goog/2022/04/04/kingsong-s20-sobiraem-poka-bez-video/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=sv&_x_tr_pto=wapp

 

Edited by Rawnei
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On 5/14/2022 at 7:05 AM, Elliott Reitz said:

Seeing the wheel come out easy was nice.  They obviously disassembled beyond need for tire replacement.  For tire replace:

1. Remove cable from controller 

2. Remove 3 bolts from suspension bottom (x2 sides)

3. Slide out wheel & motor (batteries can stay put)

4. remove fender (its a POS.  1st time I do I will replace it with home fabricated wire-guide and no fender)

5. change tire

6. fabricat wireguide for a fender replacement

7. re-install

1. - If you add a waterproof connector on the cable so you do not need to disconnect from board  


2. - If you can get at the bolt that they remove after removing the 3 bolts you can reduce the amount of unscrewing.  

Edited by Curt8892
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9 hours ago, Curt8892 said:

1. - If you add a waterproof connector on the cable so you do not need to disconnect from board  
2. - If you can get at the bolt that they remove after removing the 3 bolts you can reduce the amount of unscrewing.  

2- yea that bolt through the bearing and linkage didn't have to be removed.  Just those 3 bolts from the battery-housing to the suspension-linkage (on each side).

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I think the piece that connects the    suspension to the rail that is connected to the wheel. That piece of medal does not clear the fender that is why they removed 

20 minutes ago, Elliott Reitz said:

2- yea that bolt through the bearing and linkage didn't have to be removed.  Just those 3 bolts from the battery-housing to the suspension-linkage (on each side).

That thee hole piece has to be removed because it will not clear the fender when sliding the wheel off. 30F3F843-A36B-494B-8C27-62DB775E121F.thumb.png.366b127e11947b1c9971fc9fd273a224.pngIf you unscrew that first you would not need to undo the three bolts. 

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1 hour ago, Driftcycle said:

Batch 1 production units begin to arrive via Air Freight, it appears software is still being tweaked as you will need to update out of the box 

Really disappointing video...

It is the first footage i see of the prod model so far (maybe i miss other videos ?). So this channel did put some effort to obtain the earliest possible (airplane transport and else) this first batch specimen... and... not a word about the changes that were announced between the pre-prod models and this one. (Harder bumper... all the red parts were supposed to be of a more equal red tone, slight ajustment on the pedal positions, new screws, better waterproofing, light put slighty down, etc...)

This unboxing could have been about a 6 month ago model, the same could have been said...

 

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Agreed - no new information other that what we can see that haven't changed, maybe he plans on milking it by making follow-up videos. 

However there is one thing that have me curious - why did he say the wheel didn't have the tweaks and adjustments because it arrived early? Is it possible the sea shipment will differ than the air Freight? 

comment timestamped - 

 

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2 hours ago, jrhz06 said:

Always a little suspicious about reviews/comments that people make about previous employers. 

I am not suspicious in this case. The reasons and explanations he gave are reasonable. If you follow what he have said in his past videos, he is being consistent.

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And this (video with timestamp on info range) is what I (not only) tried to point: "last fw" for range tests is not enough info provided by many YT. Many thanks to FR friends mention this, including a note about other range test limits!

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I think is some prototype ETC.

I not belive this capable EUC isin Europe distribution.

Maybe nails instead of fuse or unique torque variant i dont know.

What you think?

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