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V11 set up for heavy rider


Ronin

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Hello, 

Could someone remind me here of the ideal v11 psis for a 220lbs rider? Ideally to not get jumped out the wheel due to bottoming out. 

-wheel psi, neg and pos chamber psi

Thanks

Edited by Ronin Ryder
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2 hours ago, 3putthater said:

George do you change upper chamber too? I’ve been running my top at half of bottom. I’m close to 210 geared up. I found 40 too high for me on tire. Closer to 30. 120;60 on the chambers. Started at 140;70 and worked down

Nah i leave my top valve at 30 psi now, i had it up at 70 but when i dropped it down it got rid of some chattering when hitting small repetitive bumps like crossing a field.

 

I did some playing and have decided 30 top 90 bottom is my favorite road riding setting, and 30 top 140 bottom is my favorite hard offroading setting (rocks and jumping type)

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90/30 is very low for your (our) weight, and I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t get a good sag with it. The pressures are a lot less meaningful than the sag, so I’d definitely measure the sag with any new pressure setting you try.

 My riding weight is 103kg, and I have settled on 155/30 for a good while now. It gives me the most comfort, easiest riding over sharp roots etc, and most importantly, I get the correct sag (3,5cm).

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21 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

90/30 is very low for your (our) weight, and I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t get a good sag with it. The pressures are a lot less meaningful than the sag, so I’d definitely measure the sag with any new pressure setting you try.

 My riding weight is 103kg, and I have settled on 155/30 for a good while now. It gives me the most comfort, easiest riding over sharp roots etc, and most importantly, I get the correct sag (3,5cm).

thanks. what wheel psi do you recommend?

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I'm about  200lbs and have tyre 30psi, 40top134 bottom and is fine for me ,try some of these settings for a start and tweak it for your road conditions  and you shouldn't be far off

Mine probably could be tweak more but it's good enough for now it's still a smooth ride only thing is I can't help going fast because you don't feel much imperfections but now my battery flies down quicker lol

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6 hours ago, rexdelmolvo said:

I'm a 220lb rider fully geared, I've started with 150psi bottom and 75top. Dropping curbs feels amazing, but it felt unresponsive for smaller imperfections. Need to play with it more.

Just dropping the top to 40-50 psi and lubricating the sliders should do the trick.

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5 minutes ago, rexdelmolvo said:

Will WD-40 work? Or do I need something specific?

WD-40 would’t stay on the sliders even for a full trip. Surprisingly, the absolute best lube for the V11 sliders I’ve found (out of the few dozen I’ve tried) is a plain candle. I use the ones that come in small aluminum cups. Take a small bit, roll it in your fingers into a grease, and wipe the sliders through with your fingers.

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5 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

WD-40 would’t stay on the sliders even for a full trip. Surprisingly, the absolute best lube for the V11 sliders I’ve found (out of the few dozen I’ve tried) is a plain candle. I use the ones that come in small aluminum cups. Take a small bit, roll it in your fingers into a grease, and wipe the sliders through with your fingers.

Straight up candle wax? Interesting. Do you heat it at all?

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5 minutes ago, rexdelmolvo said:

Straight up candle wax? Interesting. Do you heat it at all?

I keep a bar of beeswax for this purporse. I did the same thing to the sliders on my 18L trolley. Good old fashioned wax has its benefits too. I don't heat it, just rub it on. Kinda like sexwax on a surfboard, just rub and go...

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2 hours ago, Kurtosis said:

WD-40 is not a lubricant, despite popular perception.

That is correct. WD-40 is a brand name. They make many kinds of products. Usually WD-40 is used to refer to a product that contains both solvents as well as lubricants.

1 hour ago, rexdelmolvo said:

Straight up candle wax? Interesting. Do you heat it at all?

My fingers do, both when rolling the tiny crumble in my fingers, as well as when rubbing it on the slider rails. It softens to a grease (paraffin wax mostly I believe) pretty easily.

 Actually, I just filled the space between the lower and higher sliding bits with molten candle wax. I wanted to test if it would work as a perma-lube. So far looking good! (Except my workshop floor...)

2 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I keep a bar of beeswax for this purporse.

I found pure beeswax much more difficult to apply. It also felt slightly too sticky for this purpose. Beeswax/candle wax mix was good, but way too much effort compared to just the candles.

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3 hours ago, mrelwood said:

That is correct. WD-40 is a brand name. They make many kinds of products. Usually WD-40 is used to refer to a product that contains both solvents as well as lubricants.

WD-40 "Water Displacement formula 40" was actually first a product development name, before becoming a product name and company name. (wiki) (what I'm getting at is that the company name actually stems from their (star) product) It is as far as I understand more intended as a rust remover than lubricant..

 

Edited by null
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Indeed, WD40 is quite poor as a lubricant, despite its popularity for many years in the UK. I remember my grandad and dad having it around all the time. Despite this, it's uses are actually fairly limited if I'm honest. From my trusty shed box of lubricants, I will always head for either a silicone based lubricant (good for anything with rubber/plastic seals), general grease (bearings/high load applications or where I don't want a lube to run off), ACF-50 (expensive but brilliant for rust protection AND lubricant), Plus-Gas (for anything that's seized) and lithium spray grease for where I want to apply some lubricant into tight places and not have it run off (car door hinges for example).

I am finding I use WD40 less and less for anything. I don't trust it on rubber, it's not a great lubricant, it's nowhere near as good as ACF-50 for rust protection and quite frankly I struggle to find a use for it over and above any of the other lubes I have.

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1 hour ago, null said:

It is as far as I understand more intended as a rust remover than lubricant..

From the side of the can: “Lubricates, removes moisture, cleans and protects, frees stuck components.”

(Translated by me, but the idea should remain.)

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On 11/11/2020 at 10:18 AM, mrelwood said:

90/30 is very low for your (our) weight, and I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t get a good sag with it. The pressures are a lot less meaningful than the sag, so I’d definitely measure the sag with any new pressure setting you try.

 My riding weight is 103kg, and I have settled on 155/30 for a good while now. It gives me the most comfort, easiest riding over sharp roots etc, and most importantly, I get the correct sag (3,5cm).

Back to the topic, v11 finally on deck, tried the recommended psi. Pedals feel really high is it normal? 

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Definitely was an adjustment for me from v10. I still feel more comfortable and skilled on v10. V11 is higher and I had my tire at factory recommended 40 psi and shocks at recommended. Was too high and stiff, squirrelly (?) for me. I found 30-31 on tire better. As another poster said you need to have some sag in suspension, which means amount of drop when you get on. I found good video on YouTube for measuring the amount of sag, do a search. But led me to pressure of 120/60. both pressures affect sag, ratio affects how it responds is how I understand it. I plan on experimenting more but much better for me. (I’m about 210-215 ready to go). 

Edited by 3putthater
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@mrelwood how did you come up with the idea to use cables as lubricant?

Now about wd-40 I would not use it as a lubricant for moving parts. It is based on petroleum and this for our water but it also evaporates fast. The idea is to get water avai from metalparts so they don't rust and it doesn't draw dust to the tight spaces. But some plastic types and rubber can det desolved so you need to be careful to what you apply it to. 

It could have been cool to see hör titanium guides would have worked. It is much harder that aluminium yet light. I recall this to make polished titanium very smooth/slippery. But it has a very high cost. 

I will get back with an update to OP about explaining my setup. (I lost the text trying to add a picture to explain). 

Edited by Unventor
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