meepmeepmayer

Ouch!

This seems the right place to plug the following excellent topic:

Frequent or infrequent use doesn't matter. (If anything, infrequent is better because that's less charge cycles, and battery life is usually measured in charge cycles. But you buy the wheel to use it, after all) Charge to 100% regularly (and keep the charger in a few hours after the green light) to keep the cells balanced. Don't let the battery get too hot (keep in parked car in summer) or too cold (so it freezes). Don't store (~months) at very full or very empty state. That's all. And by all means, always charge when you think you might need it. Nothing worse than an uncharged wheel when you want a charged one. - "Battery dead for not being used for months" usually refers to batteries that have fallen below the minimum voltage and are therefore "dead" (because recharging them is no longer safe and they won't allow it). Our Li-Ion battery packs keep their voltage extremely well (like not a single percent loss over a few months). So a dead battery usually only happens if you have a vampire drain of some sorts (very few wheel models might have that) or do not charge/tend to it for years (if you were to buy a "new" Ninebot One S2 nowadays). Otherwise, batteries just age in that they have a little less capacity. Everything still works, you'll just have a bit less range. And that takes a looooooooooong time, so long that I never heard of anyone ever noticing a range loss on their wheel. - With a used wheel, just check that it charges to the full voltage. If it does that, the battery is good. An app screenshot from the seller is all you need to check that.

No, you won't lose the mileage, that is read from the board.

Can't wait for the EcoDrift disassembly pictures of the Monster Pro. I hope it's better than the EX...

Hi! Option 1: it's your phone. Can you try some other phone, with DarknessBot or the Gotway app on iPhone, or EUC World, Wheellog, Gotway app on Android? A friend's phone maybe? You'll see quickly if it connects or not. Option 2: it's the wheel. Most likely your Bluetooth module stopped working then. These can be exchanged relatively easily. You can ask your seller about it, and maybe you still have some warranty?

Wow, that's great!

Do not worry Your Nikola is safe. I'm not sure I understood your doubts correctly, but here's an explanation from the basics. 5000mAh is the capacity (1 - see below) of a single cell. It is completely unrelated to the maximum amperage of that single cell. The maximum amperage is a technical spec of the battery cell and can not be inferred from the capacity at all. 5000mAh is literally 5 amps times one hour. So it offers 5A for an hour, or 10A for 30 minutes, or 20A for 15 minutes, etc. That's just "how much is in a cell" - 5Ah, as measured in Ampere-hours(1). A realistic continuous (non-spike, spikes can be like twice as high) max amperage for the 21700 type of cells seems to be around 7.5A to 10A. That number and the battery configuration (how many block of cells in parallel) determines the actual max amperage (continuous and spike) of your wheel (2 - see below). You could build the same cell type with 2500mAh (half the capacity) and you would still get the same max amperage, just for half as long before it's empty. An analogy: how much water is in a pool of water (the water capacity) is unrelated to how fast the water flows out (the water current) if you punch a hole in the pool. The water flow rate depends on the size of the hole, which is a "technical spec" of your hole, unrelated to the pool size. Could be a kiddie pool or the sea, water flows out at the same rate. How fast depends on the hole. - (1) It is confusing to give the battery capacity in Ah instead of Wh, but people do it. Power = current * voltage, or 1W (Watt)= 1A (Ampere) * 1V (Volt), so stating a battery capacity in Ah implies you know the voltage. If you have that voltage, you multiply it with the Ah number to get the Wh number, which is in actual units of energy (how much energy the battery stores and can supply) instead of the stupid Ah. Example for the 21700 type cells used in the latest wheels: 5000mAh * 3,7V nominal (average voltage for one cell, it's something you are supposed to know about the cell) = 5Ah * 3,7V = 18.5Wh. Again, that doesn't tell you the max amperage the cell can provide (continuous or peak). That's an unrelated spec of the cell. - (2) The max amperage of your wheel is the max amperage of a cell (and therefore of a serial block of cells) times the number of parallel blocks. The Nikola 1800Wh is 4p (4 parallel blocks, of 24 cells each which gives 96 cells in total), so your max amperage is 4 * 10A (or whatever the cell spec says - google "Panasonic NCR21700A data sheet" if you want to know) continuous (that's 40A), and roughly twice that (80A) for short current spikes. If that number of 80A is still too low for your liking, halve it, because the Begode/Gotway wheels measure the current at a different spot and produce about 2-3 times as high as a reading as you actually have (@Chriulland @Sebacan give details if you want). I think that's what you were worried about, because 90A > 80A? - So you and your Nikola are safe and sound (and it's a fine wheel while we're at it). As confirmed by the actual riding experiences of Nikola riders, who did not manage to overlean it (except at max speed but that can't be helped). Side note, some more math: 96 cells times 18.5Wh per cell makes 1776Wh, which is the "1800Wh" battery size of your sweet new Nik.

Thank you for the tip! I added it.

Amperage doesn't matter so much. It only needs to have the right voltage ("67V charger"). I think the stock chargers were 1.75A. Anything up to 4A should be unproblematic. Maybe you'll have success asking if someone has a spare 67V King Song charger on the Private Sales forum.

Updated for the new year. Not much has happened except the EX.N and T3 (Tesla v3). If someone knows of any interesting/noteworthy inofficial modded wheel, please tell.

@John MontpetitThe 18XL goes down to 3.0V, so 60V is the 0% voltage for this particular wheel.

Gotways start low-battery-beeping at 15% (linear alorithm) which is 3.42V / 82.1V. With the voltage drop from acceleration, 30% at stand still = 15% on acceleration = "I can only limp home with beeps now". You still have some km left, but the ridable speed goes down quite fast. So Gotways are empty at 30% (Wheellog) as far as normal riding is concerned. Simple as that Tiltback starts at 0%. (And these battery % are meaningless as actual battery charge, but they are precise and reliable numbers because they are just the voltage in disguise.)

The bolded is the one to go. EUC World apparently uses some other algorithm. Wheellog with the simple algo is exactly right: (96.5 - 24*3.3)/(24*4.1125 - 24*3.3) = 89% (this is as exact as the voltage reading gets). Gotway app only does it in 10% steps as far as I know, unless they have a newer one now. So that gives you the 90%. Everything is as expected. Sherman can go down to 3.15V with its 10p (!) configuration, the Nikola is 4p, and Gotway always used 3.3V anyways (as far as I know).

Done. As far as your email address, it can be edited out or into some other form if you like. Just ask

Yea that makes no sense. Make sure the battery percentage calculation algorithm is the linear (old) one. EUC World offers two options, and I think the other might be the default. Or just use the Gotway app and see what percentage (and voltage while you're at it) it shows. Assume 4.1125V per cell, x24 = 98.7V is 100%.

On the motor? No. There's nothing you could do to the motor that wouldn't fry the board or motor power cables a thousand times before. But pendulums heat up a wheel (mosfets/board) extremely fast. So don't overdo it

Also no definitive answer incoming: Just check the voltmeter on the side of the wheel. Likely it's either 3.3V per cell or 3.15V per cell, giving (times 24) 79.2V or 75.6V (like the Sherman) as 0% voltage. Gotways used to use 3.3V but I don't know if that's still the case with their newer wheels. I would guess it is. - If you want, give a combination of voltage, as seen on the voltmeter on the side of the wheel or in an app charge percentage, as given by an app (if it's EUC World, make sure it's the old/classic/simple algorithm and not the newer custom algorithm that computes the percentage) for any given charge state of your wheel (e.g. 75% and whatever associated voltage it displays). Then we can do the math what 0% should be (it's linear between 100% = 24* probably 4.1125V = 98.7V and whatever the 0% voltage is).

Looks like fun! Knobby tires are perfect for this.

Holy shit, that could easily have been worse! I hope you heal fast and with no issues, and they get the driver. Sounds stupid, but this is good. Means the EUC wasn't the problem. Also, respect for posting right from the hospital

Maybe the power button solder broke and it's just the power button? Wheels don't just stop working after a minor tumble. Open it and see what you can find.

I don't think it has a fuse. - What exactly happens if you try to turn it on now?

Does it give more ground clearance to the shell? Is there any official source for the higher pedals?

Hi, and what a great first wheel! I put your post in its own topic. The S18 suspension technical overhaul topic wasn't really the right place. Hope you don't mind This way you should get more visibility and answers.

Haven't heard anything yet. Will inquire about the account change.