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meepmeepmayer

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Everything posted by meepmeepmayer

  1. You're so right there. That would be a nice new intermediate tire size! Maybe it's that!
  2. This can't be right. 6kg for a steel tube? But on the topic of weight: the new motors are the culprit. They're all so heavy. I wonder if this can be improved.
  3. The E+ has a small battery, and these are just limited in how much power they can provide. No way around it with current battery technology. So these small batteries are just unsafe, period. Sadly, your overleans/cut-outs are no big surprise there. The mten3 is the faster, longer distance EUC? Or do you plan on a "big" wheel, too? Either way, everybody who got an mten3 seems to love it, so good choice!
  4. It's possible it was the locomotives. KS had to add some shielding to the original 18L 1st batch design because there were EM interference problems leading to oscillations. Maybe it's not enough shielding. Gotway also once put the piezo speaker too close to the sensor and got oscillations. Not sure if an outright cut out is possible this way. EUC boards should be in closed metal boxes. Watertight + crash protection + no potential EM problems, all in one! Or use a EUC bodyguard and cover its inside with tin foil (would that work?).
  5. Yep, just trying to make it more concrete guesswork with some numbers. The V12 is going to be 4p-6p, so I assume we'll see more like a 30%+ speed margin.
  6. The Sherman has a 10p battery! Less voltage drop means you can get away with margins that are smaller on paper, because you stay closer to them. Example (no idea if these numbers are realistic): 30% speed margin but 40% voltage drop gives you 18% speed margin after the drop. But 20% speed margin with only 10% voltage drop also gives you 18% speed margin after the drop. Same result! If I had to guess, I'd say the Sherman has a bigger real life headroom. Not that it matters (to people who respect the beeps), we're talking crazy strong vs. extremely strong here.
  7. The Sherman sounds pretty good. If your father (cool!) didn't complain about the Monster torque, he isn't going to complain about the Sherman torque. Though I'd get over the Gotway-exclusion and also consider an RS HT or HS. Lighter and more easy to maneuver, but also very powerful. It's the Sherman if the Sherman is just too heavy. Just tell him it's a Begode, not a Gotway
  8. @BusterS You should be able to send messages now.
  9. Grabbing the wheel with your legs only happens during the learning phase, or if you do it on purpose for tighter control (or if the body is just wide, which the V8 isn't). Once you have ridden a bit more, the standard is to barely touch the wheel shell at all while you're just riding along. It's all via the pedals. But there's no right or wrong way. What works for you is right. That means you stand on the wheel relaxed but in control.
  10. Something with 2+ wheels will always be more forgiving and "safe" than a EUC. A EUC will be extremely versatile and unobtrusive, but you need to be attentive all the time while riding. I think that's the most important distinction.
  11. The fastest scooters will be faster than the fastest EUCs. If you ride in the city (stop and go), I think the speed difference is less pronounced and might not be noteworthy. But the scooter will probably still win on speed. Scooters also have the advantage of being more comfortable in the sense that on EUCs, you are constantly balancing (sideways) and have to be attentive to the road ahead unless you want to eat dirt. A scooter might be more forgiving and allow for a bit of inattention now and then. The advantage of EUCs is that you can easily maneuver everywhere and ride right to the doorstep of wherever you go. It's like walking, just faster. You can easily and quickly trolley the EUC with you inside of restaurants (or some other place you pick up deliveries from), takes one second to step off and extend the trolley handle. No need to park the scooter somewhere (locking it up too) like a bicycle. So if this seamlessness and maneuverability counts more for you than the riding speed (in terms of saving time or being overall more efficient), consider a EUC. Otherwise the scooter might be the better idea overall. There's plenty of Youtube videos of people doing deliveries on EUCs, check out the environments they work in. Often it's narrow, crowded streets where they pick their stuff up or deliver it, so the pure riding counts combarably less than what happens at the start and end of a route. If it's just about the pure moving-in-a-straight-line, the faster scooter will probably be better. So the devil is in the details of your potential delivery routes.
  12. Just explain the situation (short but precisely) and that you don't see how his comment is justified.
  13. No need to be nice. "This guys behavior goes beyond what can be explained by just being worried about his kid in the moment. He's just a serial complainer, see ..." Same just in better English, more acommodating so everyone sees you are trying your best to be nice, expanded. In the end, the question is what reply would be best considering what other people (= future patients) reading your reply would think. What reply would reassure them about you after reading the review?
  14. Isn't there a "report" button somewhere on the review? "Making false claims" might have a good chance of getting it removed. Or you might be able to reply to the review that he is a serial complainer (with the examples you have given).
  15. Can't explain why it doesn't work. To be sure, disable the 1st/2nd alarm too. But if it speeds up like crazy at 25kph, that's a tiltback there. I don't think it will do anything, but it costs nothing (except time and nerves) to try. You can try a calibration, too. Not sure why it should help, but... well. I guess. Ask the seller if they could ever change settings. It would be extra strange if they could and you could not, but at this point who knows.
  16. If you were doubting you did something wrong, this guy's behavior proves you didn't That's how they were treated, and that's how they learned that to get anything (or just as a "normal" reaction to any kind of frustration), they have to harass others. Forget this idiot.
  17. Yes. The behavior is totally normal, you just have tiltback set to 25kph. And can't change it, apparently. Cool, I just learned that Wheellog can change settings now! Btw the wheel beeps twice when an app connects to it, and when it receives a command to set a specific setting. Switch wheel on (normal balancing, upright, etc.), then start the app. After you start the app, select the wheel from the list of your Bluetooth devices to get the app to connect. It's going to be something like "GotWay_12345". Then in the middle tab (select at the bottom of the screen), the last/lowest menu option is "language". This app is actually the easiest to use/not accidentally mis-use, so try it (I don't trust these slider type settings - the old app has a list of tiltback options to choose from).
  18. What happens at 25kph when you lift the wheel? Rapid speedup to max speed and beeping, then shutting off? Then that's a tiltback set at 25kph. Other than setting a tiltback speed (or switching tiltback off), there's only two other settings. Enable/disable the 1st alarm (2 beeps at a fixed, unchangeable speed) and enable/disable the 2nd alarm (3 beeps at a fixed, unchangeable speed). Yep. If that works, I have no idea how it could work. There is no "his" or "your" app. Just commands sent via Bluetooth. Maybe somehow it's your phone? Restart your phone maybe. Can you try someone else's phone? Try the old app first if you haven't already.
  19. Not sure what's going on here. The wheel only remembers any settings insofar that they stay when you switch it off and on again. There are no "previous owner" or "you" settings, just what is currently set. If the previous owner could change settings, then you should be able to as well! There is no mechanism how the wheel could even discriminate between who is sending it commands (so any app should work, there is no owner lock of any kind, no serial number, etc.). The Gotway app communication protocol is extremely basic and dumb. An app can't even read which settings are currently employed because that info isn't sent back to the app from the wheel. All it sends is things like speed, current, voltage, mileage, etc. Try the old Gotway app as found in the Download section of this forum: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=11932 (needs a manual install of the .apk). Maybe it works.
  20. Buggy board? I never heard of this before. I'm out of ideas, other than opening the wheel, disconnecting the battery, switching the wheel on to drain the power, maybe see if there is a small battery on the board and remove it, and see if that does anything. But that's a long shot. Scammed by the seller who knew this was going on? How much did you pay?
  21. No need to worry, the wheel can't even know which app is connected or whether you are the original owner. Other than remembering settings and mileage, it is stateless. Like new every time you switch it on. You probably just use a shitty app (any of the official Gotway app versions). Use EUC World (Android) or DarknessBot (iOS). So once you find an app that works, that's it. Tiltback is tiltback, which can be set freely. The top speed beeps (fixed speed) can't be disabled. There are the "1st alarm" and "2nd alarm" speed beeps (at fixed speeds) which can be en-/disabled.
  22. Just start with a full battery and try and see when the wheel complains. Then ride back up a bit, and continue downwards. Then you'll now more. From then on you'll have a better idea with what battery % to start so you end up with 100% at the bottom of the hill. Nothing bad will happen if you don't ignore any warnings. No need to be afraid. You can just try things
  23. Going by @Chronic's post, "basically 18 inches" would indicate a "16" incher like the Nikola or 16X. A 16x3 tire has almost 18 inches real outer diameter (17.5 - 17.75 or something like this). A 18x3 tire would be "basically 20 inches" like the RS, Sherman, V11 etc. which are like 19.5''+ in real outer diameter. So the V12 is either a 16 incher like the Nikola/16X, or a "V11 with 100V and no suspension". Sounds to me like it is the first. Not sure exactly.
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