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EUC

Found 11 results

  1. Hey Guys, I have a couple of rookie questions for you regarding the settings on my KS 16x. So for speed settings I have disabled alarm 1 and 2, alarm 3 I have set to 39kph and kickback at 40kph. The top speed of the KS16x is 50kph in ideal situation so I put margin as I don't want cutout so I my face doesn't eat the floor. (too old for that) My question is with King Song as a vendor, are those values set in stone or does it slowly ramp back the settings based on your battery percentage? So in my case if I set kickback to 40kph at 20% power does it kickback at (I dunno) 30kph...? I'm just trying to understand are those hard rules or is there logic in the board that ramps things back depending on the available power? I know Gotways by design allow you to get yourself in trouble and leave it to the user to be smart enough to not get themselves hurt. I guess while I am at it, can other KS16x owners share their settings? I am curious how other people have it configured. Thanks for the help. Cheers, Neil
  2. Reason 1, constant scraping asphalt in turns (snagging) Reasons 2, constant snagging roots and rocks at offroad (falling) Reason 3, align gyro cutout angle with "pedal hits ground angle" (warning before, but not too early) 1 & 2. Tired of pedals snagging stuff throwing me off in high soeed cornering or in the woods was the main reason for this mod 3. after i saw Chooch's video where he cutout in a velodrome, i thought it looked far to horisontal to cause a gyro based cutout. So I tested out the angle on my GW Tesla v1.2. before this i had demonstrated the cutout angle for 2 fellow eucist and they both agreed it was far more than 45 degrees. I totally agreed, looked like a cutout around 50-55°.... BUT....math is math...and eyes are eyes. So lets test it. Before the video i tested this out several times with my calibrated galaxy s9+ clinometer (calibrated to a level of test equipment we use at work with pedigree accuracy...the iPhone was a few degrees off but the end result only differed around 2°...iPhone was not possible to get as accurate, but video on Samsung was a lot better so I still chose Apple as level and Samsung as video device) I am aware that the flex in the handle bar removes some accury, but when testing by holding handle +wheel) it was less than 1° difference where it cuts out. Also silver tape might seem bad, but i aligned the phone so that no buttons changed vertical angle from deviating from 0° and basically found the sweet spot where it JUST balanced around 0° and calibrated 0 point there. Tested other direction and cutout came around 1° later, probably board is not 100% level.. Or phone is not. All in all the meassurement error is well below 4° (most likely around 2°.. At least it was with my Android and and result only differed a few degrees after several tests) So, modification for permanent angled pedals on GW Tesla. Took some time to test out with metal glue as a start, then super tacky adhesive tape and then i realized i needed to go to the work shop and find the correct angle of the shims and a more permanent fastening solution (screws + metallic glue (loctite for metal) + loctite (blue)) Here is the result And this looks crazy...the angle... at least when you see pedal angle in video..im aware 😜 But I can only say what i experience and that is: - MUCH better control of the wheel (after raising kuji pads to fit new higher position of ankle to match steeper pedals) - Allmost Impossible to scrape pedals (except slow speed srapes, thats allmost allways possible unless wheel cutout first of course.. Which now is damn close) - And about cutout, pedals touch ground just a few degrees before cutout, so the moment i feel something pushing pedal (or hear metal scraping) i know i have to step back. A few degrees is A LOT when hovering around 40° degrees, its nothing you hit by "accident"...I hope 😁 Make up you own mind if this angle is possible to hit on a banked curved in gravel, with a bicycle tyre, in high speed. Personally i think it will be hard to hit that angle on ASPHALT even when tyre is Sticky(hot summer day)...well the amount of stickiness a bicycle can produce anyway :-) Youtube obviously made quality CRAP but basically pedals touch around 38-39° and gyro cutout is around 40-41°. Hope You can see the angle readout if you change rez to 1080p, ore upload it was ultra clear at least even after rezizing from 4K to 1080p
  3. So back in the day most everyone of us rode the Ninebot One E+. No matter how hard I pushed the device at it's top speed despite the tilt back I was never able to get it to cut out. I did however manage to overlean the device by accelerating too hard. Was it my lack of skill back then to push my E+ beyond the max speed or is it that modern wheels don't have the same protection for riders to not reach cut out speed? Why can't the wheel just not permit the rider to go beyond a certain speed?
  4. Hello, French Wheeler, but not as good as some other, I had a bad accident (broken shoulder, now with some metal!!) with my small ninebot one E+... and I spent some time in order to understant why we face cut out or accidents. So, on the forums, I could recognize 4 kind of accidents : 1- Pilot did ignore alarm.... nothing to say.... too optimistic, 2- driving accident (bumps....), 3- Sudden cut off.... (looks like my accident, but I'm not sure it wasn't a technical failure), 4- Technical failure. Rare since construcors did improve the safety...or correct bugs (BMS for instance). For the point 3, I did some calculation, that shows that specification of constructors seems to be far too optimistic, and the speed alarm does not consider the wheight of the pilot... which has a huge impact. What I did consider is a common case of accident : you run on flat road, no alarm, straight... and you have a small slope (not big, couple of meters long!). So immedialtely, since you do not consider you have to slow dow, your Wheel has to give all power in order to maintain the speed during the slope. In this condition, considering a 10% slope (not big at all, it is a 6° angle road), what is the maximum speed you can run? I did consider air drag, which has a big influence over 30 km/h), the solpe that I consider as a safety margin, and the wheight of the pilot. The power was considered as constant whaterver the speed is (optimistic), and, since nobody know the duration of the peak's power, 0,5 second for this peak (which is only use for bumps in fact!). Yield of the Wheel in order to transform electrical energy to mechanical energy is estimated at 75% (tests on some gotways). What do we calculate show that with a 500 W, at 25 km/h, you're not save at all... except if you are a kid. On a gotway ACM our MS3, 45 km/h is not a realistic speed since air drag consume most of the power... What do you think? Conclusions : - Power, and slow speed is the key for safety... - Adapt speed limit cosidering your wheight, - If you want to keep the hight speed limit, go quiet, and in all case, use protections!!! Of course, this is only my caclulation, an you can disagree! EUC safety speed.xlsx
  5. I’ve been practicing riding my Tesla in the house and the backyard but today something weird happened. I got on my Tesla rode about 10 feet then it shot forward and cut off, now when I turn it on it just blinks red lights. I’ve been letting it sit up the past few days while I wait for my V8 protective cover to prevent scratches on it, but said what the heck I should at least practice some today cause I’m tired of waiting (AliExpress). This is really has me worried, I went 10 feet (furthered than I’ve ever gone so far so kind of excited) and it just shot forward like the gyroscope went out and then shut down. Has this happened to anyone else?
  6. After having used an electric skateboard around town (mainly for transportation) for the past couple of months I realized that enough of the roads around here are a hair too crappy for said skateboard — the board can take it, but I find the ride too rough. Now I'm thinking about switching from the skateboard to a KS16S (or a onewheel+, but that's another story), but having watched a crapton of EUC youtube videos and having browsed thru that "If you fell off EUC and got injured in the last few years, how are you all doing now?" thread, I had a few questions about cutouts: 1. How common are cutouts? As in are cutouts one of those things that aren't so much a "if you have one" thing as a "when you have one" thing? 2. From what I've seen and read I get that the beefier the EUC, the lower the risk of cutouts, and the closer you hang out at the max speed of your EUC, the higher the risk of cutouts, but what are some other things that raise or lower the risk of cutouts? 3. If I'm around 175lbs (80kg) and I don't plan to go much faster than, say, a bicycle that's cruising around (that's about as fast as I care to go on the electric skateboard), are cutouts something I should worry about if I'm looking at a KS16S? And unrelated to cutouts, I have two other noob EUC questions: 1. If I'm buying in the US, is ewheels.com the way to go? Or are there other sites I should also be looking at? 2. Is carrying grocery bags in your hands while riding an EUC a bad idea, balance-wise?. What about shifting the bags around like you might do if you were walking around with heavy bags and your hands were getting tired? 3. The inmotion V8 was the EUC I was actually interested in (because in addition to the 16" wheel and extendable handle in the KS16S, the V8 also had a kill switch for lifting it) but it sounds like ewheels.com is not going to carry it anymore, and I also got the impression that ewheels was the only official distributor of the V8 in the US. Are there other legit outlets that will now carry the V8 in the US?
  7. Are there certain types that protect more surface area than others? Drug store therapist wrist braces seems to cover more area but do they protect the hard fall? Or should we use products designed for a specific sport, like snow boarding etc? Some of the wrist guards have splints in them. Is that a better choice? Interested to know what are you all wearing for wrists? Links to products would be awesome.
  8. Thankfully I have never experienced a cutout, and I believe i've pushed this thing pretty hard from a Wattage standpoint, but not so much speed out of fear of a faceplant. Has anyone experienced a cut-out on the MSuper 2? Is there a hard speed limit that it cuts out at? Or is there more a Wattage exceeded after a certain speed combination? For example I know @logos122 has a high speed version and will try to keep wattage under 1000 when riding > 30kmh (correct me if i'm wrong). Could he theoretically go to 50kmh as long as wattage was under a certain number? It would be nice to know the metrics, or combination thereof that keep us from face-planting due to a shutdown without learning first hand. If anyone has experienced a cut-out on the MSuper2, please reply with your model, power, and what what going on when it cut out on you... Thanks!
  9. Hi all, ... and yes, this is yet another post about cutout ! I have a Ninebot One E+ and it seems to work well. However this morning I had a cutout resulting in a faceplant (causing only minor scratches, thanx to my wrist protections). I checked firmware and I use v1.2.7, so not the allegedly bad v1.2.6. I ride at level 6 (riding model) because I'm still a beginner. I was going quite fast and maybe the pedal started to tilt, without me to notice. I possibly continued leaning forward while already too fast, and the engine/battery could not follow with more power. However I thought that it would not cutout like this. I expected maintaining a constant speed. So I guess I should not go that fast, however would you advice changing the firmware or riding model ? Thanx for your suggestions
  10. I have a friend that keep claiming he does not trust Msuper V3 (820wh model) because it has been reported that some users have experienced random cutout I do not seem to be able to find the evidence in the GW group, but does he have a point? I have not experienced this with my own V3 - 820wh but I have never ridden it above 35 kph.
  11. We have in our FB group seen quite a few burned mosfets over time, due to stressed EUC's like jumping, hitting curb, etc... I assume this is created by voltage or current transient from temporarily blocking the wheel that makes the mosfet fry? Does anybody have a circuit diagram over the output stage of a EUC...?
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