meepmeepmayer

Old but still good: Also I watched American Psycho recently:

Latest update: boards are being sent out in higher numbers, and all are planned to be sent out till the end of July:

Completely harmless

Just watched the Jimmy Chang video and my hype is a bit deflated. The entire top is just cheap foam and super thin plastic. A complete, closed metal box would be much nicer (and watertight). Put the foam on top of that! The suspension is built so the shock has barely any leverage? No wonder you have to pump it up fully to deal with normal rider weights. I wonder if this wheel even works for heavier riders. Looks to me like the suspension geometry could be much better. Is this kind of narrow suspension geometry normal?

Sorry! By "where these numbers come from " I meant "how do Begode come up with these numbers?". Because two numbers for the same motor is just nonsense to me. Wasn't calling anybody stupid except that fact! I don't believe there is a "but". Unless the RS firmware somehow magically makes it faster (how? why? again, how?), the EXN should be the answer to your question. Bigger battery and more stable voltage level.

I really don't know where these stupid motor wattage numbers come from. If it's the same motor, it's the same motor! Or is it not? Given that the EXN has the bigger battery, you can go faster longer, and also you have less of a voltage drop, which also helps you go faster longer. That would be my conclusion.

You can plug in multiple chargers. 5A max per port recommended, or it might get too hot.

That Fortnine channel is great! I don't care about motorcycles a bit, but their videos are just top notch.

You should be able to send PMs already.

I think they talk about their Laptop batteries. The spec sheets for our cells all have much higher allowed temperatures.

Nobody forces you to ride fast You simply have a huge safety margin then. But the Nik is a great, safe wheel. Maybe send a direct message, usually people get a notification email then. @Cutiyo(aka Vee https://www.youtube.com/c/VeeEUC/videos) surely also is on Facebook, but I have no idea how to contact her there. You'll find a way.

In doubt, always charge A higher charge state offers a higher safety margin, so it is preferrable. And charging right away makes no difference in regards to battery life etc. - General battery guide Things not to do: Keeping the battery at or close to 100% for weeks/months without using it. Abusing the battery, e.g. freezing temps or a crazy hot car trunk. Worrying about battery health, and babying the battery. Not remotely worth it. Things to do: Charge whenever you might need it. Nothing worse than wanting to go for a ride but the wheel isn't charged as much as you want it to be. Charge to 100% + keep charger in for a few hours regularly, to balance the cells.

Do NOT learn on grass (as you mention your yard). Would you let a kid learn to ride a bicycle on grass? Certainly not, it would just be frustrating and unpleasant for everyone involved. A smooth, hard surface is best. Is your tire pumped up properly? It does not have to be the max pressure that is on the tire (though that is fine), but often it looks ok but is actually flat when you stand on the wheel. If you can do all the things but not ride, you're simply too slow. Speed stabilizes you. Use a wall (so you can get on, look down for a good foot position, whatever you need with the help of a support) and then look forward, pedulum back and forth, and fling yourself forwards at the right time. Or free mount and lean like there is no tomorrow. Do not step on and then slowly creep up to speed (you'll turn and wobble and have to step off before you get to a useful speed). Start dynamic and forceful, with the goal of getting up to a good speed (10+ mph) immediately. (You need to be on a low resistance surface for that, so no grass. Grass is evil.) You can always try the different ride modes (soft/medium/hard) to see if one (probably soft) helps you lean easier. Choose what feels best. Summary: Pretty sure you simply too slow. You don't want to slowly explore going up to a normal speed. You want to get to a good speed before you even have the chance to fall over. Don't be afraid, the wheel will catch you. Remove anything (grass, fear due to no protection or distractions or no space or ...) that gets in your way towards speed. Speed speed speed. If you're unstable while riding, you're too slow. If you get unstable while riding, speed up.

That can end really badly quickly if the tire gets blocked, frying the board! Better to do this with the wheel off, rotating the tire manually.

I don't think how fast they got on overheat hill depended on the wheel. Marty just rode faster.

It looks like some new boards are being sent out, but bigger numbers are delayed for now:

Not sure if I understand the question correctly, but: the wheel switching off after an overlean is triggered by the tilt angle. If that is over 45° (or what it is), the self-balancing has officially failed and there is no point in continuing. Same thing when the wheel tilts too much to the side and switches off. - And the overlean just happens. current * excess voltage = power available for self-balancing You can run out of free voltage from the voltage drop on acceleration. This drop depends on the cell type (high discharge or low discharge) and the battery configuration (lower drop on highly parallel config). You can run out of current from the discharge limit of your cells, the battery configuration (more current available on high-p), and possible firmware current limits. I think you expect way too much sophistication from our crappy wheels. No fancy triggers. You just overlean one, and it figures that out the obvious way ("Help, I've fallen and can't get up!") and switches off. - The EX20S being 8p means using higher discharge cells doesn't do much (if anything practically relevant) so I would prefer the biggest battery capacity possible.

Honestly, all wheels are reliable in this sense. Nobody would ride a manufacturer's models if they weren't. There are some duds due to the lack of QC by all manufacturers, and they tend to fail right away when you get them, but that is pretty much it (aside from first batch issues). As you mention commuting, my current favorite would be a V11. Just so nice overall, has all the features you need (lights etc.), and a comfy suspension to make the commute extra relaxed. I'd guess the "most reliable" ones in your head are the oldest models, simply because they are older and well known quantities. 18XL and some other one?

A little bit of unevenness tends to happen often and is unproblematic. That's just the tire. But here it looks like the pedal hanger itself is bending and rubbing the motor casing. Either this is a weakness of the Hero design itself (but I haven't heard of such complaints so far, and I would guess this is something people would notice), or a part is faulty or the assembly is maybe missing some part on one side. Just have a good look if you can identify any cause of the unevenness, and see what the Alienrides guys say how everything should be.

Can you get someone else to look into the wheel well while you stand on it and put pressure all on the one affected side? This might be the structure bending and touching to motor. Maybe it is also assembled unevenly (motor not in the middle)?

You can send messages already

We really have to be thankful for KS for this adjustment towards (a little bit) more reasonable EUC prices! The Hero price is just absurd for an 1800Wh wheel, and a culmination of ugly increasing prices with the Sherman and Monster Pro.

Cool! EUCs on TV, featuring @eevees. https://www.facebook.com/532110631/videos/644323703349210/ (It's 2 months old now but was new to me.)

First sentences: "Another new product from Begode in stock. And it seems that this is just an intermediate solution that will remain in history." Looks like many think this wheel is already halfway to being replaced by a successor?

Going by your allusions, I now expect a one-wheeled motorcycle for 5000+€.